NORWAY- Prague, Tallinn, Nordkapp, fiords, Oslo

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Doogle, May 13, 2019.

  1. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    Thanks XL. I had it before and liked it. Working on #2 right now. And deciding where to go next. My points of interest fell apart when I hit the road. But it's all good.
    #61
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  2. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6-18-2019 Ballstad,Norway Lofoten Vandrerhje Hostel $20. 118 miles

    At 10 am I was riding towards Melbu.
    2019-06-18 Road to Melbu ferry2.JPG

    2019-06-18 Road to Melbu ferry3_1560873076859_17.JPG

    2019-06-18 Road to Melbu ferry4_1560873056606_1.JPG


    At noon I was on another ferry going to Fiskebol. It was about $10 for the 25 minute transport.
    Looking out from the ferry.
    2019-06-18 Ferry Melbu to Fiskebol1_1560873074428_15.JPG

    2019-06-18 Ferry Melbu to Fiskebol4_1560873090814_29.JPG

    2019-06-18 Ferry Melbu to Fiskebol6_1560873088781_27.JPG

    20 miles before getting to my hostel I saw a lot of cars in a parking lot. Up the hill I recognized a building. It was a Viking museum. I don't go to many museums. But since I'm here.... It cost $20. From the parking lot, you walk up a gravel incline. They built a replica of the largest Viking longhouse ever discovered. Just outside they have markers of where the original was. There were people making/working on things as they would have back in the day.
    2019-06-18 Lofotr Viking Museum  6_1560873082834_22.JPG

    2019-06-18 Lofotr Viking Museum  1_1560873072896_14.JPG

    2019-06-18 Lofotr Viking Museum  2_1560873071497_13.JPG

    2019-06-18 Lofotr Viking Museum  10_1560873067832_10.JPG

    Then they pointed customers to replica Viking boats. It was over 3/4 mile down another gravel path. And it is raining again, like it has been most of the day. I found a way to ride my bike about half way there.





    The hostel I'm staying in must have been an old fishing village house. Right on the water. WiFi is 400 feet up the road in another section of the hostel.
    #62
  3. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    Continuing from above. I was cut off at 10 pictures. Since I became a SUPPORTING MEMBER I'm supposed to be able to upload 25 pictures. Maybe my contribution hasn't made it through the system yet.


    Then they pointed customers to replica Viking boats. It was over 3/4 mile down another gravel path. And it is raining again, like it has been most of the day. I found a way to ride my bike about half way there.
    2019-06-18 Lofotr Viking Museum  14_1560873065597_8.JPG
    2019-06-18 Lofotr Viking Museum  12_1560873079596_19.JPG

    2019-06-18 Lofotr Viking Museum  15_1560873092002_30.JPG



    The hostel I'm staying in must have been an old fishing village house. Right on the water. WiFi is 400 feet up the road in another section of the hostel.
    2019-06-18 Lofoten Vandrerhje Hostel 3_1560873085591_24.JPG

    2019-06-18 Lofoten Vandrerhje Hostel 1_1560873060949_4.JPG
    #63
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  4. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    2019-06-19 Bodo,Norway Bodo hostel $40 71 miles

    I woke up at 8am and took a hot shower. No towels in this hostel and I forgot to take my artificial chamois in with me. In one of them awkward times, a heavy sock will work fine. I ate my mackerel and Ritz crackers for breakfast. And washed it down with 3 huge cups of coffee. The eating/overflow sleeping area.
    2019-06-19 Hostel in Ballarat, Norway 1_1560955763640_7.JPG

    2019-06-19 Hostel in Ballarat, Norway 2_1560955766830_9.JPG

    I went to the main hostel building to use WiFi. I'm 2 hours from Moskenes where I will take a 4 hour ferry to Bodo on the main land. I was told the ferry left Moskenes at 730pm. I killed some time on the WiFi then decided to get on the road.

    The ride to Moskenes was the best I've seen so far.
    2019-06-19 Road from Ballstad to Moskenes7_1560955774252_14.JPG
    2019-06-19 Road from Ballstad to Moskenes2_1560955785201_21.JPG
    2019-06-19 Road from Ballstad to Moskenes8_1560955780503_18.JPG


    It started out raining, but quickly turned to a sunny day. I passed more fish drying racks and thought they didn't look like fish. They were fish heads. They process them for vitamins. And some they ship to Africa.
    2019-06-19 Road from Ballstad to Moskenes5_1560955753874_1.JPG


    With 4 hours to amuse myself, I found one of the few restaurants in view. Maren Anna's. Since they had free WiFi I ordered from their menu. Whale and coffee. Now with 3 hours left, I ordered a beer. Next was a Pepsi. It's a great location for a restaurant.
    2019-06-19 Maren Anna whale meat 4_1560955781961_19.JPG

    2019-06-19 Maren Anna in Moskenes1_1560955760553_5.JPG


    I watched a fisherman unload his catch for the day. He power washed them, then restacked them. It's a lot of fish.
    2019-06-19 Fisher man in Moskenes1_1560955778781_17.JPG
    2019-06-19 Fisher man in Moskenes2_1560955757313_3.JPG
    #64
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  5. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    The town of Moskenes.
    2019-06-19 Moskenes4_1560955771258_12.JPG
    2019-06-19 Moskenes2_1560955786807_22.JPG



    I've been in this restaurant long enough that they may charge me for a room. And the ferry doesn't leave for another 2 hours. Oh, and it's raining again. At the terminal, everything is outside. You wait with your vehicle until you board. Pay as you board.

    The ferry ride was rather scenic as we got closer Bodo. There were many small keys/islands we weaved through. About 1230 am I was on dry land again. It was lesss than 1/4 mile to my hostel. They left a card key in a mail box for me. In the dark room I had to find where my bed was. 3 bunk beds. All 3 of the bottom bunks were taken. I went to a common area and worked on my ride report until 130. Then I went back to the room and tried to make my bed. I had 2 sheets, a pillowcase, and a towel I had to use. Making a top bunk bed in the dark quietly ain't that easy. The real challenge was getting this old man up the ladder and between the sheets. I made it. 3-4 days ago I would have slept on the floor. But then I couldn't sleep for over an hour.

    I think this link will show places I may go. The first string of pins are down the coastal highway-route 17. Most of the pins are where I board and depart ferries.

    http://ge0.me/k4u6d95j_1/R17_Coastal_Hwy_south_
    #65
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  6. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6/20/2019 Mosjoen,Norway Froken Skjolds Hotel $100 208 miles

    I read that route 17 south out of Bodo was not to be missed. The first 10 miles were just get out of town miles. After that it was okay riding. Some good sights, but nothing spectacular.
    2019-06-20 South of Bodo 3_1561062820539_17.JPG
    2019-06-20 From Jektvik ferry 4_1561062829182_23.JPG
    2019-06-20 South of Bodo 4_1561062815089_13.JPG

    2019-06-20 From Jektvik ferry 1_1561062827791_22.JPG

    A lot of time waiting for ferries and money for ferries. The 3 ferries I used today were reasonable $8-16. And I could see things from a different vantage point.


    The captain told everyone to look off the port side. There was a marker for the Arctic Circle. It looks like the globe at Nordkapp.
    2019-06-20 Arctic Circle marker-from ferry 1_1561062802259_3.JPG
    2019-06-20 Arctic Circle marker-from ferry 2_1561062813498_12.JPG

    From that time on for the rest of the day, we had extremely strong winds. I was on the deck outside talking with my wife, and I told her I was afraid the phone was going to blow out of my hand.


    When I got off of the ferry in Levang I was half way down route 17. I couldn't find a hotel along the coast. So I decided to abandon route. I found a room that was $90 with shared bathroom. I said I was first going to check a hytte I passed. But nobody answered when I went there. So 10 minutes later I'm back wanting the $90 room. Another couple just got that room. And that was the last room. So I rode on to Mosjoen. This room is $100. And it was their last room.
    ========================

    Some pictures from last night around midnight on the ferry to Bodo.

    2019-06-19 Midnight ferry to Bodo 4_1561062817639_15.JPG
    2019-06-19 Midnight ferry to Bodo 2_1561062805175_6.JPG
    2019-06-19 Midnight ferry to Bodo 7_1561062806789_7.JPG
    #66
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  7. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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    That's good. I wonder how accurate it is now, since the Arctic Circle is moving northwards by 15 metres a year.

    Edit: It's out by 3km or so. The circle is now at 66°33′47.7″ N. I see the globe is on an island - https://goo.gl/maps/emxFLHfxrNkRcQ6i6

    Edit 2: I think I'm looking at the wrong one - it doesn't look the same, and isn't on the ferry route.
    #67
  8. RedDogAlberta

    RedDogAlberta High Plains Drifter

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    Fantastic! I'm of Norwegian ancestry. I'm loving this.
    #68
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  9. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6/21/2019 Trondheim, Norway Hotell St. Olav $90 257 miles

    Today was just another travel day. Nothing to take pictures of except rain. And I think you people back in Ohio have seen enough of that already. The rain didn't stop until I got to the hotel. I got a shower and walked a quarter mile to the center of town. The center of town is about 1 square mile. And it is almost completely surrounded by water.

    I need food. Finally, my first McDonald's in Norway. As I walked back to the hotel I stopped to take a picture of a church. My first picture of the day. Nidaros Cathedral is the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world. It was built over a long period of 230 years, from 1070 to 1300. But it fell into ruins with several fires over the centuries. Restorations started in 1869. It is the traditional location for the consecration of new kings of Norway.
    2019-06-21 Trondheim,Norway-Nidaros Cathedral 1_1561152805218_2.JPG

    2019-06-21 Trondheim,Norway-Nidaros Cathedral 4_1561152813267_9.JPG

    2019-06-21 Trondheim,Norway-Nidaros Cathedral 5_1561152814115_10.JPG

    2019-06-21 Trondheim,Norway-Nidaros Cathedral 3_1561152807359_4.JPG

    As I walked around and took pictures I saw a sign saying European Stone Festival 2019.
    2019-06-21 Trondheim,Norway-Nidaros Cathedral 7_1561152806250_3.JPG


    I walked through a stone archway and saw a tent with live music playing and beer available. There are maybe 30 people under the tent.
    2019-06-21 Trondheim,Norway-Nidaros Cathedral 8_1561152812459_8.JPG


    While drinking my second beer a man comes over and invites my to sit with his group. The Stone Festival starts tomorrow and lasts 2 days. The people here tonight are stone carvers. There are over 100 stones that will be carved the next 2 days.
    2019-06-21 Trondheim,Norway-Nidaros Cathedral 9_1561152811532_7.JPG


    Half will be auctioned off, with money going to church renovation. The others will be used in the church. All time is donated. I would have stayed and talked longer. But it cooled off a lot and got windy. I was cold. I started walking back to the hotel. Suddenly I see police in the roadway. After 10 pm and there is a bicycle race starting. Maybe it's because of the summer solstice?
    2019-06-21 Trondheim,Norway-10 pm bicycle race _1561152809770_6.JPG
    #69
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  10. a100man

    a100man Adventurer

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    Its great to stumble across that kind of stuff when you're on the road - a 'friend of the stone-carvers' there must be a badge for that.
    #70
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  11. MichaelJ

    MichaelJ Long timer Supporter

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    #71
  12. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    I thought it might be a Stoned Festival.

    Something I forgot to mention yesterday. As I was riding into Trondheim, I went into a tunnel. It was the first warm tunnel I'd ridden into. In a fraction of a second my face shield fog over-total white out. I wiped the outside of the shield, and that did nothing. I'm riding blind for a couple seconds. Then I raised the shield and find I'm still in my own lane. My buddy Jack is watching out for me. If I had a fixed shield, I'd probably be someone's hood ornament. I don't like tunnels on a bike. It's too hard to see if something is laying on the road. At least Norway has the best tunnel lighting I've seen.

    So, going into the city center, I came out of that tunnel and go in to another. Then 20 seconds of day light and I go into a 3rd ttunnel This one is different. In America we are just getting started with roundabouts. Well, there was a roundabout in the tunnel. Of course I have 2 choices, other than the road I came in on. I took the wrong way. But I didn't try making a U turn. I still found my hotel.
    #72
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  13. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6/22/2019 Molde, Norway Molde Hostel $59 178 miles

    I had to park my bike about 2 blocks away from from the hotel. Free motorcycle parking 4 feet off of the road. There was a light pole next to the bike. I don't know if birds were s itting on my seat or if they calibrated wind velocity from the light pole. Either way, they delayed my departure by about 10 minutes.
    2019-06-22  Bike parking  _1561223869371_13.JPG

    I stopped by the stone carvers on my way out of town.
    2019-06-22 Tronheim stone carvers 3_1561223882068_20.JPG

    2019-06-22 Tronheim stone carvers 6_1561223878543_18.JPG
    2019-06-22 Tronheim stone carvers 10_1561223862610_9.JPG

    2019-06-22 Tronheim stone carvers 9_1561223876552_17.JPG
    2019-06-22 Tronheim stone carvers 7_1561223859242_7.JPG



    Then I rode about 130 miles to the Atlantic Coast Road. I saw a picture of the Storseisundet Bridge on a ride report. And it was very close to my route. I had to take 1 ferry to get there. As I loaded onto the ferry, a BMW parks next to me. It's Volkmar. I met him a few days earlier on a ferry to Bodo. As we were leaving the ferry, Volkmar said "See you at the bridge."
    2019-06-22 Volkmar from Germany _1561223857420_6.JPG

    I did see Volkmar at the bridge from a distance. I parked next to him when I took these pictures.
    2019-06-22  Storseisundet Bridge, Norway 7_1561223888133_24.JPG

    2019-06-22  Storseisundet Bridge, Norway 4_1561223893182_27.JPG

    2019-06-22  Storseisundet Bridge, Norway 10_1561223889910_25.JPG

    After seeing the bridge, it was 30 some miles to my hostel in Molde. It's a pretty good size building. And at 5 pm I think I'm the only customer here. Nobody to bother me when I, Chef Doug, cook my Spaghetti a la Capri. I don't know what Capri is. But I will eat the spaghetti.
    #73
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  14. Drybones

    Drybones Fish bones are on my truck seat cover, too

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    You're having a great experience and we really appreciate your interesting posts and photos. That photo of the faces carved in stone...the one on the left looks like Trump! :)
    #74
  15. eehgil

    eehgil n00b

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    Where are you going after Molde? I am living in the area south of Molde ("Sunnmøre"), and if you are interessted I can post some (alternative) routes with great roads.
    #75
  16. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    Stone face Trump
    A little rough around the edges
    #76
  17. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    I want to go to Geiranger fjord, maybe Galdhopiggen and Nigardsbreen. Then maybe Laerdal tunnel and Snow Road. Then down to Stavenger.
    #77
  18. eehgil

    eehgil n00b

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    Ok, you are not going to Ålesund?

    If you are going to skip Ålesund I would recomend this route: Molde - Trollstigen (not to be missed!) - Valldal. https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Molde/Trollstigen,+6300+Åndalsnes/Valldal/@62.522408,6.9144314,9z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m20!4m19!1m5!1m1!1s0x4611541dd7c6c259:0x92051488f8de33f4!2m2!1d7.1607306!2d62.7372352!1m5!1m1!1s0x46140e70c1e7a8af:0xcc14b0e753396f9e!2m2!1d7.6660498!2d62.454928!1m5!1m1!1s0x46141ece29159a89:0x9cc61737a05a35db!2m2!1d7.261527!2d62.3003856!3e0

    molde valldal.jpg

    From Valldal i would really recomment to take a detour to Fjørå/Tafjord/Zakariasdammen, this is off the normal tourist route, and not very crowded. Great driving and great views. https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Val...835d0fe6afb14b!2m2!1d7.49!2d62.201833!1m0!3e0

    valldal tafjord.jpg

    Then go from Valldal to Dalsnibba via Geiranger. https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Val...423995761ad3a!2m2!1d7.269322!2d62.0488015!3e0

    valldal dalsnibba.jpg

    The roads around "Trollstigen" and especially all the way from Eidsdal via Geiranger to Dalsnibba are great fun roads to drive a motorcycle. The problem is that this time of year they are VERY crowded by tourists, busses and caravans. I reccomend driving them late in the evening or early in the morning. When you drive of the ferry in Eidsdal if you are one of the last to drive of the ferry I would reccoment to wait in Eidsdal just until the next ferry arrives, then drive before the cars are let off, then you would have to road for yourself for some time at least.

    If you decide to go to Ålesund I have som other routes to reccomend.
    #78
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  19. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    The German man I met was going to Alesund tonight. Big fire and party. I will look at your routes on my tablet. Too hard to see on my tiny phone. I like nice roads. But points of interest are my main goal. May never get back here again. LIFE'S SHORT. SEE ALL YOU CAN, WHILE YOU CAN.
    #79
  20. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    6/23/2019 Geiranger, Norway Homlong Camping $39 120 miles

    As I rode through Molde at 9 am Sunday morning, not a creature was stirring. Not even a mouse. A lot of boats and no captains.
    2019-06-23 Molde, Norway 1_1561309430984_38.JPG


    I rode a while until it was ferry time again. I arrived exactly when they started boarding. I took the advice of eehgil on Advrider and went to Trollstiger. It was similar to the Alps. This is what I expected in Norway.
    2019-06-23 Trollstiger,Norway 1_1561309404852_14.JPG

    2019-06-23 Trollstiger,Norway 15_1561309429808_37.JPG

    2019-06-23 Trollstiger,Norway 18_1561309393688_3.JPG

    2019-06-23 Trollstiger,Norway 14_1561309440861_46.JPG

    Next I went to Dalsnibba, which he also suggested. It was about 10 miles after going through Geiranger. The last 3 miles they charge a toll of $17. It was the best I've seen so far.
    2019-06-23 Dalsnibba viewpoint 4_1561309443150_48.JPG
    2019-06-23 Dalsnibba viewpoint 9_1561309434652_41.JPG

    2019-06-23 Dalsnibba viewpoint 7_1561309425530_33.JPG

    There was quite a bit of snow. At the top it was getting cloudy with fog. Then the snow flurries started. Then the snow. As I start back down, very quickly the snow turns to rain. Then it stopped. I pulled into a turnout to take a picture. I had to let people know Doogle had been here.
    2019-06-23 Dalsnibba viewpoint 13_1561309438278_44.JPG

    2019-06-23 Dalsnibba viewpoint 15_1561309392815_2.JPG
    #80
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