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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by coppertop, Oct 30, 2008.
I agree I have never had a clip style master kink fail.
In the 90's my Kawasaki decided it was fond of snapping master links.
Usually all the plates gone on one side and the other side deformed but once with half of the outside plate and the clip still in position.
Some times were more catastrophic than others. Stopped happening when master link was replaced by a rivet type.
30,000 later it started again when the chain was replaced and the apprentice used a clip on instead.
The only clip type master kink failure I have seen was on a buddy's bike when he had a blonde moment and put the clip on facing the wrong direction.
I used the clip type on my Kawi z1 that had been hopped up with no problem.
Mind you it wasn't putting out 175 hp
Dann I just can't seem to get my spell check to let me type link .. there . Did it
After doing extensive wiring modifications and about 15 miles into a ride when your bike dies for no reason and has just enough power to light up the idiot lights, DO NOT start questioning every connection and solder joint you just got done making sure were all good to go. Instead, look at those damn pain in the ass sealed super strong plugs that you hate to remove on the voltage regulator rectifier that you didn't want to put all the way on in case you had to move them again. They are probably loose and not connected.
I've tripped myself up more than once by putting something together loosely "just until I get everything in place" and then forgetting to tighten it up. I put a pad of post-its in the workbench and write a note that I stick on the speedo, but then I forget to look at the note. Next time I'm going to nail the note and the key to the workbench.
Did something similar when my riding mower died. Checked the fuse, looked ok. Battery was low, but ok. Figured I'd fried a relay by running over the headlight harness. (Long story involving drunk gf mowing.) Lots of checking and rechecking, new battery, new relay.... nope.
Neighbor suggested testing the fuse for continuity, even though it looked ok. Pulled it out, and visibly fried, now that I had my glasses on!
New fuse, good to go.
SO: Don't dig into electrical problems without your glasses on.
On rare occasions a blown fuse doesn't look blown. I've checked the continuity of quite a few fuses with a meter just to be sure they're good.
Seen it before... but when I looked at it with glasses it was obviously blown. DOH!
I recently had a fuse reading continuity (beep!) but had fairly high resistance using the ohms setting. Caused a fuel pump to erratically function. First time for everything.
I had one that looked good and tested good, but when I twisted the ends, one came right off. Lights and ignition on 75 Gold Wing. It wouldn't have been bad, but it was midnight and I got a wrecker to get home....
I used to always have a piece of conductive foil I could wrap around a glass tube fuse, just to get home. Then I quit smoking.
I have one on my overhead here at work, the original cooling fan fuse for the KLR. The metal in the fuse cracked. Was not blown. Fan only worked sometimes.
In high school I had a heater fan on the truck that only worked on warm days. when cold, no heat. Pull it in the garage and it worked. Outside and it didn't. Eventually went trouble shooting in the cold. Found the clip holding the fuse was rusty, the load was enough to create a hot spot that melted the solder off the end of the fuse. When it was cold the metal shrank and opened the circuit. Warm it up and it expanded closing the circuit. Those are my 2 weird fuse failings. I understand why people hate the old style glass fuses.
I had a "good" fuse with zero connectivity a couple years ago.
It was a modern fuse on a 4 year old truck.
I once had a bad fuse in a Ford that looked good and tested good when in place. When pulled could see the fuse was missing one leg or contact. I've always thought this was done by somebody on purpose so the car was sold at auction in the "not running lane"
I was glad to have a pack of wrigley's gum with me, when I was using my tail light as tester, the main fuse looked good. Foil got me home.
EDIT: DO NOT DO THIS
.22 bullets are a perfect fit in that type of fuse holder! Good conductors!
I used to always have a couple of those in my pocket for some reason.............
Edit: I need to add that is a tongue in cheek remark, there are undocumented internet stories of 22 bullets used as fuses overheating and going off doing damage to the users.
DO NOT DO THIS.
And after .22s have been fired the empty casings make nice little hole punches for thin cardboard or paper patterns or gaskets. They can bend easily sometimes so I keep a bunch. Of course different size bullet casings for larger holes work too. Picked up a lot of these where people left ‘em at a not-to-legal ‘gun range’.
When putting on some aftermarket accessory or other (like braided stainless steel lines) and suddenly one part doesn't seem to fit with the same ease as the other bits; This is a really good time to stop, re-read any written instructions, and carefully go over what you have done so far, instead of cussing the designers for picking the wrong bend on the banjo fitting and forcing it together. Related note-to-self: If you've got one of your lines running to the output port of the auxiliary master cylinder instead of the input port; you are going to have a bad time when you use the brakes.