Nova Scotia on a Shoestring

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by bgoodsoil, May 13, 2010.

  1. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,721
    Location:
    Washington, DC, USA
    I'll try to get some pics up in a minute. I'm at the visitors' center at Gros Morne National Park on the west coast of Newfoundland.
    It's supposed to rain tomorrow. :becca What the hell?! I've ridden 2,000 miles and it's rained on me the whole time! I'm hoping to go hiking tomorrow but if it's raining and 40 degrees I might suit up and head home.
  2. RedRocket

    RedRocket Yeah! I want Cheesy Poofs Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2003
    Oddometer:
    34,150
    Location:
    SoCal
    I think rain is a daily staple of NFLD even when you're not there.
  3. selkins

    selkins Gotta light?

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,680
    Location:
    The Frozen North
    Don't give up too quick on Gros Morne. I was there last year and it's great. Be sure to check out the table lands. Also there's a hike in the north part of the park back to a lake between plateaus that looked incredible - I regret not having walked it :cry
  4. Calamity Jesus

    Calamity Jesus n0ob

    Joined:
    May 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    249
    Location:
    OlyPen, WA
    That was how it was explained to me last year when I crossed (ME->NB @ I-95) on my way to Newfoundland. (My "ride" report: here)

    Our Westfalia was searched as thoroughly as the agent could muster... But after looking through the cabinets and spending a few minutes trying to get into the rear bench (he left the knob for it unscrewed on the floor in defeat), he sat down in the back for about 5 minutes and seemed to be collecting himself. He didn't find anything because we had nothing to find.. But he easily missed 7 or 8 areas where something could have been smuggled. :rofl

    Great RR so far! Thanks for sharing :D
  5. dentedvw

    dentedvw Where did I put that

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,180
    Location:
    ☼SLC-ish☼
    Fantastic report, sorry about Nate. :cry A ride with friends is always a bit more fun, IMO. But, I may have acted like a Nate once too. If you are reading this buddy, I am sorry. Been working on the anger problems. Not gonna call you out by username, but you are probably well justified in ignoring my messages. Still, I hope you can forgive me, I miss your friendship. Of course, I always wore my helmet. :deal
    Brad, people can change, but sometimes they don't realize they are screwing it all up. Even when you tell them. I had to get a fair bit of therapy before I broke down the walls that kept me from seeing what an ass I have been. I am lucky I still have any friends at all, let alone a wife. She must be some kind of saint.
    Anyway, love the report, and your style, especially the commando camping. It's how I like to go too sometimes.
    Keep it up! Don't give up on account of rain only, maybe take some time and visit some more ADV riders. :D
  6. The Raven

    The Raven Banned

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,811
    Location:
    Off the map,
    Canadian customs are a blast aren't they? I had a student visa and everytime I go though it says I have a "paper" outstanding and have a bunch of questions for me...so much fun...never been ripped apart though(on the bike). It's all how you deal with them and answer questions.

    Great trip though, but will never be able to travel the way you do, 500mi days just to reach way points for a vacation. I'd rather do 100 mi days and see a lot, than 500mi days and see very little.
  7. Firenailer

    Firenailer Still Ridin'

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2010
    Oddometer:
    484
    Location:
    New York
    Hang in there kid, but it might be time to get a good meal and a room for a night to warm up and dry out for awhile! Stay safe and keep writing. :1drink
  8. Calamity Jesus

    Calamity Jesus n0ob

    Joined:
    May 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    249
    Location:
    OlyPen, WA
    Yeah, I think it was my "No, we don't have any mace.. but you're saying that if we did it would be illegal? :huh" that got our van searched. We needed to walk the dog anyway. :lol3
  9. Boogie

    Boogie This way...

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    31
    I'm curious to know if you have been abducted by a well meaning Newfoundlander and "screeched-in" yet? :1drink
  10. old crow

    old crow Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    39
    Location:
    Lancaster County, PA Dutch Country
    Great report. I was up in Newfoundland & Trans Labrador Highway a couple of years ago. our trip was late August & Sept. had better luck with the weather than you seem to be having.
    The people are great - the scenery is fantastic.

    ** Did you resolve the engine fade/loss of power problem? **
  11. g®eg

    g®eg Canadian living in exile

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2004
    Oddometer:
    8,038
    Location:
    48.8436788,-122.599317
    :rofl

    I had a border guard tell me that once.... "we can spot everyone except Canadians.... until the say eh"
  12. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,721
    Location:
    Washington, DC, USA
    I'm on the ferry heading back from Newfoundland. I came. I saw. I got rained on.

    Crossing a river in Nova Scotia

    [​IMG]

    Are ya'll sick of seeing pictures of my bike or what?

    One of the guys at the ferry said "Why the heck are you riding a bike to Newfoundland in May?" I said, "Lack of planning." :D

    strapped in for the ride. The crew won't touch the bike. They provide straps but for insurance purposes they can't help you lash it down.

    [​IMG]

    It was after midnight when the ferry docked. I had to find a place to camp in the dark. 1/4 mile out of the ferry I saw a sign that said service road so I pulled down that and pitched a tent. I got a little stuck the next morning....

    [​IMG]

    I went up the hill too far trying to turn around and the rear wheel went in a 4 wheeler rut. I had to remove the boxes so I could pick up the back end. I made sure I could pull the boxes with 1 wrench when I was putting the racks together last year. I welded the nuts on the inside so I wouldn't have to empty them. The preparation really payed off that night.

    It was steep so I turned the handlebar in the way I wanted it to go then pulled the rear out and got out of the way. I shot out then I picked it pu and rode out.

    [​IMG]

    I headed north to Gros Morne National Park on the western coast of Newfoundland. The ferry docks at the far southwestern corner so I rode 200 miles up the western coast.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I asked the lady at the visitors' center how much campsites were. She said "$25" I was proud of myself. I didn't laugh. Not even a little bit. :D I'll be sleeping in this glorious wilderness FO FREE thank you very much.

    I found a way into the woods right in front of a road sign. I planned on staying there for a few days so it was important to find a landmark. It can be impossible to find your campsite in 20 miles of forest where everything looks the same.

    This one had a trail full of moose prints. This was 5' in front of where I parked my bike.

    [​IMG]

    MMMMMMmmmmmm! Milk Duds!

    [​IMG]

    I figured I was parked right next to the Moose Super Highway. I turned my mirrors around so my bike could blend in with the local population.

    [​IMG]

    Then the rain came and I spent the night mopping water out of the tent.
  13. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,721
    Location:
    Washington, DC, USA
    The next day it cleared up for a bit and I went hiking. If you ever wanted to know what it'd look like to hike on Mars come to Newfoundland.

    [​IMG]

    I went over a hill and the scenery changed immediately.

    [​IMG]

    I hiked to the coast. It was wiiiiindy.

    [​IMG]

    The wind was blowing so hard I could barely keep the bike on the road. It fell over in the parking lot while I was standing there. I had to turn the bike into the wind to keep it from going over.

    If you don't believe me about the wind just ask the trees

    [​IMG]

    I had to cross a ditch to get this shot. The sporty wouldn't have made it.

    [​IMG]

    Here's one of the fishing villages along the way. I met a lady at the diner and she said they had whales that came in the harbor all the time.

    [​IMG]

    A guy in the parking lot was staring at my bike. He said 'You're a long way from home! What kinda bike is this? " I said it's an old BMW. He said 'Wow, you really are from Georgia, aren't you?' Whaddaya'll reckon he meant by that? :scratch

    I got back to the tent right as the rain came in. I was wet, the tent was leaking and it got down to the upper 30s. No sense whining about it, it's my own fault for not getting that tent in Connecticut. I knew I'd never get to sleep so I got as comfortable as I could and waited out the night. When the sun came up around 6 I packed and left. I did the 250 miles back that morning and got there before the ferry left at 11.

    I saw a moose on the way out. I even got a pic with him right behind the bike but I figure ya'll know what my bike looks like by now. :lol3

    [​IMG]

    A nice rainy day shot.

    [​IMG]

    I hit patches of fog so thick that I had to slow down to 30 and it rained most of the way. The bike never stumbled a bit. Either that spray did the trick or the boot on the coil that I adjusted is keeping the water out now. I was exhausted. I'm really grateful the bike didn't give me any problems this morning.

    I'm on the ferry now. Internet on a boat, what will they think of next? The free coffee is keeping me conscious right now. I'm going to sleep like a rock tonight. All my gear is wet including my sleeping bag but hotels were over $100 a night in Nova Scotia when I checked last week. It's going to be another uncomfortable night. You know what they say, "If you're gonna be dumb ya better be tough!"
  14. Calamity Jesus

    Calamity Jesus n0ob

    Joined:
    May 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    249
    Location:
    OlyPen, WA
    Be on the lookout for B&B's. You could end up renting a room in someone's house for far cheaper than a hotel. We had really good luck in North Sydney doing that last summer.


    Did you see any of the stuff about the old Newfoundland Railway? It was narrow gauge because it was easier to ship narrow gauge cars and engines across the water... but that also meant they were tippy. There are a lot of pictures of the trains lying on their sides along the West coast due to those crazy wind blasts. They pulled most of the tracks once the highway was finished.
  15. CBAT

    CBAT occasional wanderer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    849
    Location:
    Central Texas
    My wife was born in ST. Johns on a US Air Force base. She wants to go for a visit. I might ride up and have her fly in for a few days. She would not want to ride there from TX.

    I'm really enjoying your report. Keep riding and writing. :thumb
  16. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,721
    Location:
    Washington, DC, USA
    Come in June or July. All the locals have told me the weather's crappy the rest of the year.
  17. CBAT

    CBAT occasional wanderer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    849
    Location:
    Central Texas
    Yeah, that's what my father in law has said. They lived on the second floor of a duplex and I"ve seen old photos of the snow up to the bottom of their windows. :eek1
  18. HappyRiding

    HappyRiding Grump

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    9,471
    Location:
    NE 10EC
    :lurk:lurk




    BTW, if you ever need a dry place in NE TN, you are welcome here at HappyHouse.
  19. TouringDave

    TouringDave Tri Moto Veritas

    Joined:
    May 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,267
    Location:
    Frankston, Vic, Aust.
  20. thumpididump

    thumpididump MacGyver

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,182
    Location:
    Ottawa, Canada
    Did you drink some Newfie Screech?