Nova Scotia Raid!

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Nightstalker, Sep 22, 2005.

  1. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    Intro and Day 1:

    I had planned a trip to James Bay Quebec for this past June, but a little head on collision with Jim Thorpe Dave left me bikeless and planning another trip. Nova Scotia is always someplace I wanted to terrorize on a motorcycle. After a lot of planning, I decided that a whole week worth of riding starting on September 9 ought to make the daily mileage reasonable. I talked my buddies Mitch FJR1300 and Earl Ducati ST2 into going along and the stage was set. Earl and I met at Mitch’s place in Douglassville, PA after work on Friday 9/9/2005 and hit the road around 5:00PM. Even with weaving through the Friday night Pocono’s traffic, we managed 264 miles to just below Hartford, CT.

    My bike packed and ready to go.
    [​IMG]

    Route for today.
    [​IMG]

    We stopped for gas somewhere along the way and ran across the street for what turned out to be the best of many pizzas consumed on the trip.
    [​IMG]

    Happy waitress.
    [​IMG]

    Happy pizza eaters.
    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    Day 2, Saturday 9/10

    I had only made three reservations for this trip and two of them involved being in Bar Harbor, ME. We got into Maine with little effort and in no time. Crossing Maine, however, takes forever! Miles of mind numbing Maine turnpike, also known as I-95, can make you do peculiar things, like a first, second, and third gear wheelie exiting the toll booth. Finally off the superslab, we’re carving down some nice two lane, until we run up behind the first, of a string, of slow moving cages! In desperate need of R & R, we pull over at the Penobscot bridge, where a new bridge is being constructed along side the old. An awesome feat of construction. Back on the road, it’s not long before we’re pulling into crowded downtown Bar Harbor, where a room is reserved and waiting for us. After quick snack, lobster bisque for Earl and Mitch, and chili and corn bread for me, there’s still plenty of light for a quick tour of Cadilac Mountain and Acadia National Park. After 419 miles, a feast for champions was in order, and my compatriots went all the way. Soup, salad, bread, two full lobsters, corn on the cob, cole slaw, and desert! Wow, those guys can eat!

    Day 2 route.
    [​IMG]

    I'm a sucker for bridge pictures.
    [​IMG]

    Another bridge picture.
    [​IMG]

    A very impressive bridge.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Big Earl was stunned by the impressive span and passed out. I used my magi magic on him and flipped his mind into an alternate dimension until we reached the other side of the bridge.
    [​IMG]

    Crossing into dimentia.
    [​IMG]

    Bikes parked at "The Villager" in Bar Harbor. They placed bags of rags on everyones bike during the night to clean off the dew in the morning. A little pricy, but what isn't in Bar Harbor.
    [​IMG]

    Happy waitress serving lobster bisque.
    [​IMG]

    Lobster bisque (aka Campbells soup) in the distance, chili and corn bread in the foreground.
    [​IMG]

    Cadilac Mountain shots.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    On the "Loop Road".
    [​IMG]

    Waiter bring food. Lots of food. Apparently, the dimensional mind flip gives you an enormous appetite.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #2
  3. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    Day 3, Sunday 9/11

    Up early, we’re at the ferry terminal, the second reservation of the trip, to catch the “CAT” to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. Met some great bikers on the boat ride, chatting with them really helped time fly by. By about 1:00 PM we’re through Canadian customs and we’re on the Lighthouse Route traveling north up the east coast of Nova Scotia. Cruising at different speeds and stopping at different places to take pictures, I end up separated from Earl and Mitch, not to worry, we’re all back together at the hotel for the night. They had slabbed it up to Peggy’s Cove for sunset. I had gone down to Cape Sable island, the southern most point in Nova Scotia, then up the coast to the first of three cable ferry river crossings of the trip. 299 miles after leaving Yarmouth, we’re in Halifax for the night. I think a pizza is in order to close the evening out.

    Todays route.
    [​IMG]

    Waiting to board the CAT.
    [​IMG]

    New found goldwing friends.
    [​IMG]

    All aboard. The floor was dusty, smooth, aluminum, very slippery.
    [​IMG]

    Packed in like sardines.
    [​IMG]

    Luxury accomodations. You can buy food at three different locations on board, you can also blow some greenbacks at the casino. I came out of there 5 bucks poorer.
    [​IMG]

    CAT tails.
    [​IMG]

    Welcome to Nova Scotia.
    [​IMG]

    The line to get through Canadian customs.
    [​IMG]

    The mad piper!
    [​IMG]

    If I were a farmer, I think that I'd grow windmills.
    [​IMG]

    Why are boats in dry dock such an attraction? Got me, but I had to stop at every one that I saw.
    [​IMG]

    Shag Harbour, baby! I didn't see any UFO's, at least not that I remember.
    [​IMG]

    Cape Sable Island, and the southern most point in Nova Scotia. Sandy beaches, no babes in bikinis though, bummer!
    [​IMG]

    A stop in "Little Harbour" for some pictures.
    [​IMG]

    I saw a great place to set up for a picture. Put the bike on the sidestand right along the edge of a drop to the ocean. While trying to dismount from the right side, the bike and I go down. DOH!!
    [​IMG]

    So, I'm in the middle of no where. There's no houses in site and I'm off the main road, which was deserted anyway. I tried three times to right the bike to no avail. I'm getting a little nervous. I've picked my 950 up plenty of times, what's so different about now? Luggage. I pull off all my gear and the bike comes right up! That was a close one. I decide to take a little time off.
    [​IMG]

    Here's the shot that I was setting up for. At least I am happy with the picture.
    [​IMG]

    Busy Nova Scotia roads.
    [​IMG]

    Cable ferry crossing the La Have river.
    [​IMG]

    I drove into the small town of Lunenberg. My first stop was the cat house.
    [​IMG]

    That sure built up my appetite, so it was off to Large Marge's for some fish and chips. If you're ever in Lunenberg, please let me know if there's someplace better to grab a bite to eat.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Finally in Halifax, well actually Dartmouth, the other side of the river.
    [​IMG]
    #3
  4. dgrs2

    dgrs2 Where'd I leave my knee??

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,301
    Location:
    Jim Thorpe, PA
    Keep it coming TZ. :lurk
    #4
  5. TomN

    TomN Long timer

    Joined:
    May 4, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,511
    Location:
    Chalfont, PA
    Damn, pictures don't show at work, can't wait to get home and see them. I did Nova Scotia about 10 years ago, one of the best trips ever.
    #5
  6. JTT

    JTT Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,531
    Location:
    Halifax, NS
    Nice view from the Country Inns eh? All those lovely U-Hauls in a row.

    Psst...it's a harbour :D

    Great report! Always cool to see your own home from the prospective of others.
    #6
  7. Maineboarder88

    Maineboarder88 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 14, 2004
    Oddometer:
    540
    Location:
    Lakes Region Maine
    Awesome report. I lived in New England all my life and never once made it to Nova Scotia. Damn it, someday. I was doing some research a few years back and found that with just a few USD$$$s a nice home could be had in/around the Lunenberg area. Even cheaper on the Bay of Fundy side. Problem is as a non-Canadian citizen, can't work--it's seasonal employment anyway as far as I could tell. Maybe a good place to retire?...what do ya think?

    What does the CAT trip cost nowadays?
    #7
  8. JTT

    JTT Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,531
    Location:
    Halifax, NS
    Not so cheap in Lunenburg anymore unfortunately. It's been taken over by wealthy boomers and prices have been driven way up in recent years. Still lots of hidden "heavenly places" though, just have to look around a little.
    #8
  9. Jack Daniel

    Jack Daniel See Ya At The Swamp

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2005
    Oddometer:
    12,531
    Location:
    Weeki Wachee, FL
    Did you go to "Meat Cove"? It's on the NW Upper corner. It had the wildest little castle on the point.
    #9
  10. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    The CAT ran us $130 USD each!
    #10
  11. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    Absolutely. If you're on Cape Breton Island, you have to do the Cabot Trail, and you have to do Meat Cove. There's no two ways about. Can't say I recall seeing any castle though. Meat Cove is two days away in my report. Hopefully I'll get that up tonight or tomorrow.
    #11
  12. Srbenda

    Srbenda Embassy of South Carolina

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    12,016
    Location:
    Embassy of the Nation of South Carolina
    Ohh, bleccchhh. That looks damn horrible.
    #12
  13. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    Day 4, Monday 9/12

    We’re off to the local motorcycle dealer to find a replacement face shield for Mitch, he dropped his helmet yesterday carving a deep scratch straight down the center of the shield. The dealer doesn’t have a shield in stock and won’t sell Mitch one off a helmet, so he’s stuck with that big scratch down the front of his shield for the rest of the trip. We continue north up the east coast, now on the Marine Route. Today is a windy day, a very windy day! We get to the second cable ferry, the three of us and a pickup truck. The ferry operator loads us all at the rear, because the wind is blowing the waves over the bow and port sides of the ferry, BRING IT ON!! We continue to battle the winds until we reach the Canso Causeway, a narrow land bridge built to connect Cape Breton island with the main land of Nova Scotia. The waves are crashing up over the TOP of the causeway and over the top of vehicles heading southbound. The man at the gas station, just before crossing the causeway, tells us that a guy on a bike was taken away in an ambulance earlier after being swept off his bike while attempting to cross. We’re RORR (dirt bike enduro club) members, we ain’t going to let no stinking salty waves keep us from our destiny! Carefully, we start across the treacherous narrow rope of road. Tractor trailers traveling in the opposite direction nearly rip the face shield from my helmet as they pass. A warm room, great meal, and bottles of booze awaits us on the other side and makes the night all right! A windy 275 miles is now in the books.

    Today's route.
    [​IMG]

    If you can help it, shop somewhere else!
    [​IMG]

    Sandy beach just outside of Halifax.
    [​IMG]

    Sherbrooke, a large part of the town is a living history museum. This was a great place to eat.
    [​IMG]

    Along the road, in the middle of nowhere, this 2 1/2 story tall, red, metal, claw is sticking up out of mother Earth. Must be aliens. In fact, I really don't remember taking the picture...
    [​IMG]

    Near the end of the road at the Country ferry crossing. There's no other way around. There's a sign posted at the last intersection quite a few miles back that lets you know if the ferry is running or not.
    [​IMG]

    On the ferry. I tried to capture the waves breaking over the rail, but my timing was off.
    [​IMG]

    One of quite a few single lane wooden bridges we crossed.
    [​IMG]

    Eddy Point Marine Park, closing in on the causeway.
    [​IMG]

    I did shoot a few pictures of the boys crossing the causeway behind me, but none of them really turned out. On to dinner! The best mushrooms I've ever eaten!
    [​IMG]

    Boy, was she the happy waitress!
    [​IMG]

    We were mixing toxic tonics that night!
    [​IMG]
    #13
  14. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    It sure was!
    #14
  15. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    Here's a couple of pictures I stole to show just how violent the causeway crossing can be.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #15
  16. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    Day 5, Tuesday 9/13

    First stop, car wash! Our bikes and gear are covered with salt which needs to be removed! Today we start by heading north up the west coast of Cape Breton island on the Celidh (kay-lee) Trail. Scenic coastline until we get to the famed Cabot Trail and Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The road now climbs and drops as it runs along the cliffs of the coast and through the mountains of the interior. A spur road runs 20 miles up to the northern most community of Nova Scotia, Meat Cove. A few houses and a “campground” are all that you’ll find on land, but you may see sailboats and whales out in the Atlantic ocean if you are as lucky as we were. Our final cable ferry and we’re heading towards our hotel for the night in Baddeck, an easy 264 mile day.

    Today's route.
    [​IMG]

    Canada is great, these Visitor Centers are everywhere. And they're a wealth of information! I stopped in this one to find out about a dirt road I read about, they knew right where it was and provided pin point directions.
    [​IMG]

    Some pictures of the dirt road.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    We pulled off the main road and took this dirt road up to a cemetary. While up there my camera decided to start malfunctioning. I did get it working again on the way back out to the main road.
    [​IMG]

    On the Cabot Trail. We stop at the visitor center to purchase our passes to parade through the Park. The ranger at the desk is far from helpful and makes me beg for information, to which she gives little response. I should have taken her picture so that I could throw darts at it and stick it with pins later. Having great weather, and knowing what was in store, she couldn't damper my attitude! Entering the Cape Breton Highlands National Park.
    [​IMG]

    It still gives me wood thinking about the Cabot Trail.
    [​IMG]

    My camera went on the blink again so I didn't get many pictures. It did start working again in time for the run to Meat Cove. I think this was Capstick.
    [​IMG]

    Pavement ends. Meat Cove 8. Mitch and I continue. Earl returns to the Cabot Trail and the Cape North Museum to await our return.
    [​IMG]

    Here comes that wood again. I hope I'm not gaying you all out.
    [​IMG]

    Meat Cove from afar.
    [​IMG]

    KTM 950 is right at home! More, more, more, please!
    [​IMG]

    Meat Cove is getting closer.
    [​IMG]

    Holy smokes. Nirvana.
    [​IMG]

    Destination achieved.
    [​IMG]

    This is one to tell your grandkids about. Don't forget to mention me, I won't be having any grandkids.
    [​IMG]

    It's hard to see, but there is a sailboat chasing a pod of whales out in the Atlantic.
    [​IMG]

    Mirror shot on the way back.
    [​IMG]

    A diverse group of machines, also on the way out.
    [​IMG]

    The community of Bay St Lawrence. Come here to catch the sailboat whalewatch tour.
    [​IMG]

    The North Highlands Community Museum. Worth the stop.
    [​IMG]

    This place was right next store to the museum. Stop and get the bumbleberry pie. Your tongue will love you for it.
    [​IMG]

    There's a short loop road on the top of the east side of the Cabot Trail that runs from South Harbour to Neils Harbour. Be sure to take the dead end spur down to White Point. We were told by a helpful local that, "It's fucking beautiful!" And he was right! The road does turn into more of a trail if you go far enough.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Somewhere near the Atlantic on the Cabot Trail.
    [​IMG]

    Heading down Cape Smokey.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    St Anns Bay, I believe.
    [​IMG]

    Englishtown cable ferry. We're three for three for ferries. If they had set up a ramp I could have jumped the crossing, it was that short.
    [​IMG]

    Englishtown cable ferry from high above.
    [​IMG]

    Another great bridge. We rode down to the bridge, crossed, turned around, crossed again, and then headed for Baddeck.
    [​IMG]
    #16
  17. TomN

    TomN Long timer

    Joined:
    May 4, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,511
    Location:
    Chalfont, PA
    I thought Louisbourg was cool, neat fort, too bad you did not get over tha way.
    #17
  18. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    I'd been over there in the past, on my Tiger with my wife. We had a great time there!
    #18
  19. Nightstalker

    Nightstalker YO BUDDYPAL!

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2003
    Oddometer:
    6,011
    Location:
    Sunny Phoenix, AZ
    Day 6, Wednesday 9/14

    Today we start by slabbing it back down to and across the causeway. A short excursion on the Sunrise Trail finds more deserted Nova Scotia coastal road. We're back on the highway to the Glooscap Trail which runs along the northern coast of the Bay of Fundy. Along the way we stop at ?
    "That Damn Dutchman's Farm" for some great gouda cheese. Our stop for the night is Parrsboro, home of the highest tides in the world. The tides rise and fall as much as 53 feet here! We pull in right at low tide to find all the boats in the harbor lying dry on the ocean floor. After a run back to the room and a stop for some food, we're back down at the shore to find the tide working its way back it. We were about 3 hours short of high tide, but it sure was interesting to see the water rushing back into the harbor. 298 miles today. No pizza tonight, but coconut rum appears to be on the menu.

    Todays route.
    [​IMG]

    Early AM. The view from the back of our room. I recommend "The Trailsman" south of Baddeck. The room was set up very nice for bikers with lots of room for gear.
    [​IMG]

    Mirror shot.
    [​IMG]

    Crossing the causeway. Water was as calm as Hindu cows this morning.
    [​IMG]

    On Sunrise Trail, near Cape George.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This was a one woman shop. Definitately stop here at all costs. Lismore.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    That Damn Dutchman's Farm. I would have kept the new shoes, but they did't fit in my float bag.
    [​IMG]

    The Dutchman in action. Gouda.
    [​IMG]

    Bay Gardens Campground in Five Islands. At low tide during full moon, you can walk to the largest of the Five Islands. The water comes to just below the campers at high tide.
    [​IMG]

    Parrsboro, low tide.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Halfway to high tide.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Making new friends, downtown.
    [​IMG]
    #19
  20. Coolhand

    Coolhand Puck slapping maplesucker

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2004
    Oddometer:
    557
    Location:
    Alberta
    It was a decient spot when i lived over there about 7 years ago...things must have changed.
    #20