NX250 Thread -- official ADV owners manual

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by valvecrusher, Mar 17, 2008.

  1. Spurlock

    Spurlock Long timer

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    Welcome LoganFrom NZ. The engine oil lubricates both engine and transmission, there is no separate transmission fluid. The oil drain bolt has a 17 mm head and is to the right rear under the engine. Not sure what you mean by "...the one that held the shifter in place". The oil drain bolt has nothing to do with the shift lever. Can you clarify or post a photo?

    -Bill
  2. LoganFromNZ

    LoganFromNZ n00b

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    Oh I see! There's a 11mm bolt right below the shifter and from videos of fluid changes on other bikes I assumed that was the trans drain. When it is removed there is no tension on the gear shifter but once put back in it applies tension again to the shifter. Any other tips to get my clutch free'd up again?
  3. Reverand Hope

    Reverand Hope Been here awhile

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    First of many brain-picks from a noob AX1 owner without a service manual (yet)...

    Does anyone happen to know the rake and trail of the AX1/NX250? Had a look online but the usual suspects only give the usual specs.

    just making tentative inquiries into what, if any, 37mm leading axle cartridge forks are available...

    Thanks in advance,
  4. valvecrusher

    valvecrusher tractus pro pensio™

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    Welcome @LoganFromNZ

    I'm out of time this morning, but i'm looking forward to seeing some riding photos from NZ on an NX...

    the 'trans fluid' on this bike IS the engine oil, there are no separate fluids..

    @Spurlock posted above about the 'oil check dipstick' and an illustration is at the link he provided...

    later on today i'll check back, but i'm certain there are LOTS of NX'ers qualified to get you on track!

    Thanks for dropping in!
  5. Spurlock

    Spurlock Long timer

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    Has the clutch been stuck since you bought the bike? And had the bike been sitting a long time? Evidence of moisture in the oil? If so it's possible the clutch discs are rusted and stuck together. You might be able to free them by first adjusting the cable to take out almost all free play. Then bump start the bike, get it into 2nd gear then with the revs around 5 K alternate between full throttle and closed throttle until the clutch breaks loose. Do this while holding the clutch lever all the way in. If that doesn't work you will need to pull the right side engine cover and pull the clutch apart. Good luck and let us now how you make out.

    -Bill
  6. Reverand Hope

    Reverand Hope Been here awhile

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  7. Spurlock

    Spurlock Long timer

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  8. arescec

    arescec Been here awhile

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    Here is one from the trip. Day 4 and the bike is still alive. Doing TET Croatia to Greece. IMG_20190909_152532.jpg
    travial, jimmatas, PTC and 2 others like this.
  9. Reverand Hope

    Reverand Hope Been here awhile

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    longshot alert!

    I've trawled through the various wheel swap posts for the NX but can't find the info I'm looking for. Essentially, I'm looking to replace the cast rims on the AX1 with some spoked equivalents, but using a 17" rim on the rear. With an 80 profile tyre there's a 2% increase in rolling circumference, so I should be OK regards gearing, adverse handling etc. The AX1 has a disc rear and I'd like to retain this if possible. So the question is this: does anyone happen to have the hub width and offset dimensions for the NX? It may be the case that I just have to measure the swingarm width, caliper spacing, chain line etc. and figure out what (if any) hubs are available. I'm thinking '94 Transalp, but if anyone has any alternative suggestions I'd be happy to hear them. I'd keep the cast rims for originality, but in general use, I'd trust spokes over 32 year old 'mags'...
  10. mattmacklind

    mattmacklind Adventurer

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    Hello just checking in and keeping up with the posts. I replaced my fork oil with 15w thinking it might be heavier and make a difference but if it made any its very slight. I attempted to replace the top fork spring with GM valve springs (2 each side, washer between) but the springs seemed too large in circumference. They fit in the fork tube but too tightly. My guess then is when I read that others have done this mod that they have used smaller springs from a Chevy/GM product? Anyway, I replaced the rear shock with a later SV650 shock which has been great and the bike runs great. I'm a heavy rider (300# dressed on the bike) and it will do 65 - 70. Anyway, if anyone has any tips on adding some stiffness to the front end let me know, and I'm surfing the thread of course.
  11. PTC

    PTC Turd polisher

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    I used springs from a small block Chevy. 5.7/350 motor and they fit fine. I can’t imagine doing two springs on each side though! Seems like the tension to put the cap on would be huge?
    spychic likes this.
  12. mattmacklind

    mattmacklind Adventurer

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    If the helper spring is removed and replaced with two it would be pretty tight but I didn't get that far once I observed the clearance with the spring. I like the idea of keeping the helper and adding one spring, although that's still pretty tight. I replaced the oil with the forks on the bike, which I know is not the best method. I'm going to go ahead and remove the forks and replace the seals and the boots which are still original and try again with the valve springs, re assembling off the bike. Funny thing about ordering the valves, I wanted 4 of them, and I found them online. I thought they were $2 a piece which sounded fair (used to euro cars) so I ordered 4 at $2 for a total of $8. I got 4 full sets of springs, so a total of 128 springs lol.
  13. gavair

    gavair Adventurer

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    Hi Bill, was swamped at work, I did order a new CDI and fitted it, took her for a spin this evening, managed 21 KM and she died again, waited 5 minutes and she fired up again and managed to get 0.5km back to home, dead again, left her 15 minutes and tried again, she fired up and i got the rest of the distance back home, 20.5km, kept her below 3000rpm so about 50km per hour in top gear, she didn't cut out again! ill get into that diode tomorrow and see what's going on there but no issues with the starter turning after she dies, also wondering if its a possible issue with the main battery relay? its new but you never know, its not fuel related, tank and carb is fine, its pointing to overheat, i recon if i had given her death after waiting the 15 minutes i wouldn't have managed to get her all the way home.
  14. Spurlock

    Spurlock Long timer

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    I'd carry a spare spark plug so next time the bike dies pull the plug cap, put it on the spare plug, lay it on the cyl head and crank the starter to see if you have spark. If there is spark then it could be fuel starvation. As soon as the bike dies, also shut off the petcock so you can open the float bowl drain screw and see how much fuel comes out. If the carb was not getting fast enough fuel flow you will see only a small amount of gas drain out instead of the normal 1/4 cup or so. Check the petcock fuel strainer and screen (parts #3 and 6 below). Also check the fuel cap air vent. Good luck.

    [​IMG]

    -Bill
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  15. valvecrusher

    valvecrusher tractus pro pensio™

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    @scrambler66

    Paging! You are needed at the Courtesy Desk!
    @Reverand Hope needs some help! Thank you!
    @gavair
    Have you checked the Pulse Generator for oHm's reading?


    @mattmacklind

    So if you have 4 extras in the 126 remaining, i need 4....please pm me details..


    .
    Reverand Hope likes this.
  16. arescec

    arescec Been here awhile

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    Nixie is holding up great and we have covered over 1000km so far over about 60 percent on Trans Euro Trail with some gnarly stuff.

    A few photos:
    IMG_20190911_150232.jpg IMG_20190910_174737.jpg IMG_20190913_132002.jpg
    travial, jimmatas, spychic and 2 others like this.
  17. arescec

    arescec Been here awhile

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    Anybody knows of a good mod to fix the front shock? I already have the blue Suzuki shock in the rear and it is great but the front could be better.
    Are there any plug and play forks on the market?
    I am looking for more suspension travel possibly since I have larger wheels and the rear end is a bit on the high side.
    spychic likes this.
  18. spychic

    spychic Adventurer

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    Alexandria VA
    New NX250 TIRE INSTALLATION Follow Up:
    Found the OEM Bridgestone TW39 for the front, but couldn't find anything but street in the OEM 120/19-16 in the rear. Opted for what many bloggers and members of this group attest to as a good option, the Duro Median, but in the 130/19-16. The positives of this wider rear -- on road manners have vastly improved, and being taller, the rear suspension is much more stiff. Such a welcome surprise. I can lean farther into turns, and feels very solid at highway speeds. Looks beefy, and the profile is cool, but awkward.

    Now for the caveats - the bike can barely reach 70 now (75mph was easy pre install)the front fork is giving more road vibration/feedback than ever before, and off road/grass/gravel surfaces cause the engine to struggle to pull this tire through. 3x now, each time out since the install last Saturday, the start button pauses 1-2 seconds before engaging in the start of the engine. lights are on, so it's not spark. am concerned the excess vibration has caused the soldiered joints of the very delicate Honda CDI to crack prematurely. only 3k on the ticker and had ZERO issues starting prior to new rear tire. Gas mileage has suffered, and the engine fan is coming on if over 85 degrees. The rear brake began to squeak as well. Never heard it make noise at all before the tire. ALSO, there is literally room for a sheet pf paper to fit on the drive side between the chain guide and rubber.

    Thinking I need to pick up the CDI unit ASAP as this could fail on me at any time. Unless someone knows how to repair them, which I doubt local mechs would opt to do over throwing a new one in, if they still can be found.

    Am pretty disappointed that the bike is suffering under the weight of the Duro. Am considering purchase of a 10 year old new stock Dunlop K460 in OEM size off Ebay, OR paying hundreds for the Dunlop to ship from UK/Aussie/Japan. OR, selling.


    Despite an almost telepathic relationship while riding, if there are no tire options but street, then the bike can't be considered a dually any longer. shame on Honda, and Bridgestone, and Vee Rubber for failing all of us with 16" rear OEM specs. so so sad and am hoping someone in this group has an option - like finding the TW40 in stock somewhere.

    Attached Files:

  19. spychic

    spychic Adventurer

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  20. PTC

    PTC Turd polisher

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    masshole mofo

    On the start button pause, sounds like a dirty contact somewhere. I’d disco the battery, clean/shine all the contacts from the battery to the starter.
    Squirt a little contact cleaner in the push button start and the on/off switch.
    Work them a bit and allow to dry/evaporated overnight. Charge battery, then reconnect.
    Only cost ya 6$ for contact clean and a little time.
    If I ever see rear tires for sale I’m gonna buy a few!
    I once had a sweet Honda tractor. RT5000. Really nice machines. Guess what part was very specific and discontinued?? The tires.
    Sold the machine because of it. Sad really.
    spychic likes this.