NX250 Thread -- official ADV owners manual

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by valvecrusher, Mar 17, 2008.

  1. helloish12321

    helloish12321 n00b

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    Thanks, that would help a lot. Im not sure I'm going to try and salvage this harness though. Theres a few other spots that look a bit suspect, and I shudder to think what else might have been done to the harness on this poor thing:uhoh.
    There was a cheap used harness on ebay so I went for that. I was planning on stripping the bike down a bit because of how much surface rust is on it. Now its the excuse I need to get it down to the frame and give it the attention it deserves and make it look fresh. Wont be ripping around for a while.

    I'm new to bike mechanics so I'm learning as I go. I have noticed a few things that have me wondering. Is there such thing as a clutch lever bushing?(the one that goes into the gearbox. not on the hand controls) when the clutch is actuated the whole thing wiggles back and forth a bit as it is pulled and released. I looked up parts diagrams and there is no bushing shown in the right engine cover.
  2. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

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    I went downstairs and checked mine; there is no lateral movement at all when the clutch lever is pulled, tried to wiggle it by hand - nope. Pulling the side cover off and taking things apart will show you pretty quickly if it is a worn case or a worn shaft. If it is a worn shaft you can just get a new one, if it is the case and Honda doesn't sell a bushing, you might try a good bearing supply store, or make up your own bushing by going to a hobbby shop and getting some thinwall brass tubing to slip fit over the shaft and take up the wear in the case. If necessary, you can always double sleeve the brass tubing if you still have too much play.
  3. Too Old for This

    Too Old for This Adventurer

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    Did the PO just extend the CDI wires to put it under the seat?
    Should be able to cut all the green wire out and put it back under the tank, right?
  4. Spurlock

    Spurlock Long timer

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    I don't know about the NX since I haven't had the clutch lifter out, but most models use a needle bearing in the side cover that is not sold separately, at least not by Honda. Take measurements and you can likely find a new one to fit. Often the shaft is corroded due to water leaking past the oil seal. The shaft is still available from Honda.

    -Bill
  5. suecanada

    suecanada Been here awhile

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    Gavair I would just like to say that my headlight stay was crooked so everything was off centre. That bugged me a lot. I was able to manually bend it back into the original shape and position without removing it even. It is pretty soft metal I guess. I am a weak 72 year old lady so maybe an Ebay stay could work?
  6. suecanada

    suecanada Been here awhile

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    Cornato, I had a bunch of cracks and broken plastic pieces on my new to me NX. If you want to try it, I found out that ABS material is what LEGO is made out of. Pure ABS it would seem. Anyway, put some "stolen" LEGO of your colour choice (grandkids toy box are good sources) into some acetone and let the LEGO piece melt away till you get the consistency you need to either use as a glue or to pour into a homemade mould to make a new tab piece. Works pretty well to melt those cracks together etc. Another tip I found on the net for anyone who finds that their RAM mount is not quite as grippy as it might be...I know yours was great...try wrapping the ball part with heat shrink.....no more loosening off and stays stable at all highway speeds...for an NX anyway! LOL!
    valvecrusher and CORNATO like this.
  7. CORNATO

    CORNATO n00b

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    Thanks for the LEGO mod, haha! I heard about that but wasn't sure if our plastics were ABS or not. I found some product that uses the same basic idea with acetone and abs powder, but its about $50. But I'm down to try anything! So far the JB Weld/Superglue combo is holding well. Went on a 2.5 hr ride today with no major problems. Heard a lot of rattling but nothing broke I think.
  8. CORNATO

    CORNATO n00b

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    Yeah just rode around today and stopped to take a scenic shot, and looked at the chain area....definitely no chain slider. Also no chain guard or bump guard?(upside down sharkfin thing). It may be missing a tensioner too, idk. I'll have to look tonight. But when I pour on the throttle around 3000-5000 rpms I feel like the chain has a foot of slack and is slapping around, also the engine bogs down a bit. Once I hit low 5k rpms is smooths out, catches and chain quiets down.

    So I may have to check out the carb and accel pump, never messed with carbs before so it should be interesting.

    Anyway here's a pic of the first "Official Ride" that wasn't a commute. Rode on some levys around the Atchafalaya River Basin.
    image1.jpeg
  9. PTC

    PTC Turd polisher

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    masshole mofo
    It’s from Bridgestone, so with a few calls and a bit of digging, I don’t know why we couldn’t get it here.
    Tw202
    Stock in the Yamaha tricker.
    Everyone should email and call Bridgestone as we need a rear tire for our beloved bikes.
    DietcokeAni likes this.
  10. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

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  11. Too Old for This

    Too Old for This Adventurer

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  12. Reverand Hope

    Reverand Hope Adventurer

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    Not sure if you managed to sort the brake pressure issue but if not, some tips I've found useful over the years:

    first, check the condition of brake pads and rotor: as they both wear, the caliper pistons travel further to compensate. There is enough 'spare' fluid capacity in the reservoir to accommodate this, but if the fluid level was low, you are essentially trying to pressurize the excess air in the reservoir before the fluid .

    Next, try squeezing the lever while holding the flexible portions of the hose tight with your other hand...if you feel the hose expand appreciably it's worn and needs renewing.

    Assuming you've checked for leaks/weeping around the piston seals and all the hose joints, when you replace the fluid, you're best off reverse flushing the system fully. Have some shop towels ready to soak up fluid. remove the reservoir cap and gasket. Draw some old fluid out from the resv. to make space for fresh. Fill a large (250ml) syringe with fluid, keep the syringe upright (ie needle end facing downwards), make sure the tubing is a tight fit on the bleed nipple. Open the nipple a full turn or more) and slowly squeeze the fluid into the caliper. If you need to refill the syringe, tighten the bleed nipple back up, disconnect, refill, then continue until fresh fluid fills the reservoir up to the level. Replace the resv. cap but don't tighten it down fully just yet.

    Pump the lever a few times then hold it on...tap the caliper and hose line with a screwdriver a few times to knock any stuck bubbles out. If you don't need to ride the bike straight away, tie the brake lever off in the fully 'on' position using a zip tie or elastic band and leave it overnight...any remaining bubbles will make their way up to the reservoir naturally.Tighten the cap fully. don't be tempted to overfill the reservoir beyond the level. Fluid expands with heat from the disc/pads, that expansion gaps needs to be there....otherwise your pistons won't retract properly and you can cook the rotor on a long journey or lots of heavy braking.

    The lever should feel fairly solid after about half it's travel. try pumping the lever a few times and note the biting point....walk away, leave it for a few minutes and pull the lever in once. if the biting point is now closer to the bars, then you may still have air in the system (unlikely after leaving overnight) or a weep. (new seals/pistons required) or the piston/seal in the reservoir needs renewing
  13. CORNATO

    CORNATO n00b

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    Had a strong gas smell and tracked it down to leaking carb, so it looks like im taking it apart. And I figured I might as well rebuild it or replaces gaskets and such. Any mods I should do while I have it out(bigger jets, etc)? Also what company/site sell trustworthy gaskets and jets? Thanks.
    DietcokeAni likes this.
  14. DietcokeAni

    DietcokeAni Annette

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    Oct 6, 2013
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    33
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    Georgia, US
    Hey everyone!
    I've had a blast this season on my black (The Rat) NX250 - done tons of off road & some miles on. No problems.

    And then at the first cold snap (maybe random on the time), all of the sudden I'm having trouble starting it. It's trying to start but over the past 2 weeks, it just became harder then impossible. I pulled the spark plug & cleaned it...I have spark, but ordered a new iridium anyway. We got it started the last time by rolling it down a long hill. Once it starts, it's like a dream.
    I've played with the choke, different throttle tricks, gave a shot of starter, hooked it up to a new battery, ran a couple capfuls of gunk, changed the air filter & oil. Everything sounds and seems the same as always except it just won't finish the starting process.

    What next? Carb? CDI? Someone mentioned a $20 carb kit...link?

    Thanks for any help.
  15. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

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    Maybe apples and oranges, but that is what my NX650 was doing when the CDI went bad.
  16. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

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    Typical symptoms of a bad CDI. It's almost always the CDI if the NX won't start http://forum.nx250.de/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=295
  17. DietcokeAni

    DietcokeAni Annette

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    Thank you so much!! I'll let you know how it goes. :)
  18. valvecrusher

    valvecrusher tractus pro pensio™

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    @DietcokeAni
    First, when the NX does not want to start,

    1. Observe the tachometer needle.
    If the needle is 'dead' or does NOT move, not at all, not even a wobble, THEN suspect the CDI. If the needle jumps once, and then nothing as the engine turns over, it is still suspect.
    2. If needle moves and bumps around, but without the engine starting, THEN inspect other reasons....

    plugged carb jets, needle jet, etc.
    pulse generators of this vintage are sometimes problematic, but are USUALLY(not always) good, or bad.......no in between.

    the sudden onset (regardless of CDI) during cold weather suggests not enough fuel for mixture to burn....



    I would start with a Tach Needle observation, if it does not move, or jumps once then nothing as you hold the start button, worry about the CDI..

    Let us know....
    travial likes this.
  19. DietcokeAni

    DietcokeAni Annette

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    Thanks...I'll try that. It's at my base camp right now and I won't be able to check it for a week or so. I thought I'd look at parts now in case I have to wait.
    One thing as I checked different sources is the HUGE price differences. I read on the German site to not buy the one with the white "NX 250" sticker on it. Then I saw Rick's Hot Shot for $20 with an ignition coil. None of the others have that with it. ?? Any opinion on which one to get? Buying by high or low price hasn't guaranteed quality for me in the past, and the Chinese parts are now distributed from the US, so it's harder to pick.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-C...:Honda&hash=item3d3bfe891b:g:B8YAAOSwEDBdr9LA
  20. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

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    I need some help with this forum: several years ago I think (?) I posted a link to some bright LED bulbs that fit the NX250 instrument cluster, and now I cannot find it. And I need to order some more bulbs. How do I find the links to posts that I made years ago? Thanks.