NX250 Thread -- official ADV owners manual

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by valvecrusher, Mar 17, 2008.

  1. CORNATO

    CORNATO n00b

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2019
    Oddometer:
    8
    Location:
    LOUISIANA
    Ok, so the bike is in layup right now. It's been some pretty nasty weather and wife had emergency surgery last week so it went to the back burner. But I think I figured out why it was running rough all of the sudden. I left the choke on half way. *facepalm* But now the carb is leaking, so I figured I'm gonna do a total maintenance check.

    I plan on changing oil and filter, cleaning oil screen, pulling carb and cleaning it, check AP adjustment, checking and setting valve clearances, clean and lube chain, check timing chain, and whatever else I can. Since I don't really know the history of the bike I'd like to set a benchmark and do all the stuff now so I know the condition and it gets done.

    I put the generic MadDog seat cover on and man what a game-changer. Love it. In the process of making a windshield, I have it cut just need to shape it. And got some decals on it too, not original but cool I think. I got some bar risers too, but am having issues. The hydraulic brake line wont budge, it's pretty m uch at its max.

    Is there another bike's hydraulic line that fits? Can I order just a longer length, or make one? I'm sure someone here has done this before, but I searched the forum and no one has mentioned what they did for the brake. Just that they put bar risers, and what clutch cable to get.
    valvecrusher likes this.
  2. helloish12321

    helloish12321 n00b

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2019
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Charleston, SC
    I have been tearing down my bike over the past week after seeing some wiring harness damage and quite a bit of missing paint and rust.
    It was definitely unnecessary. I was going to spot paint it with a spray can and leave it but I figured I might as well go all the way and have some fun with it.

    First, I chose to get a Rick's hot shot CDI to replace the more than likely faulty OEM unit. Here is what comes in the box for anyone interested.
    IMG_0428.JPG

    I wanted to repaint the frame with single stage automotive paint for durability. I stripped the paint off then wire brushed and sanded the frame. I couldn't find the factory frame paint code so I settled with going for a simple semi gloss black. I think the black I used was "Black Onyx" which is an OEM toyota color.
    IMG_0449.JPG IMG_0463.JPG IMG_0475.JPG
    Here it is after wet sanding, after priming and the first coat of paint, and after 2 coats and 24 hours to cure. I was told to use a 25% mix of flattening agent to get a semi gloss out of my single stage paint. I used closer to 30% but it came out very glossy. I'm not upset about it, I think it turned out fantastic. It is a very deep smooth color. I can tell just from handling it that the paint is thicker than the factory paint. time will tell if its more durable (I think it will be) but its certainly more durable than spray can paint and that's what I wanted.

    Now I can start to reassemble the bike and finally start riding it :thumb.
  3. helloish12321

    helloish12321 n00b

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2019
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Charleston, SC
    I found this from 2018. Its on page 657.

  4. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    155
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
    Thank you!
  5. ichallein

    ichallein Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    155
    Location:
    16 kilómetros al norte de África
  6. DietcokeAni

    DietcokeAni Annette

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2013
    Oddometer:
    33
    Location:
    Georgia, US
    [QUOTE="

    First, I chose to get a Rick's hot shot CDI to replace the more than likely faulty OEM unit. Here is what comes in the box for anyone interested.
    View attachment 1969728

    .[/QUOTE]

    How much did you pay for that CDI?
  7. arescec

    arescec Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2018
    Oddometer:
    226
    Location:
    Croatia
    Deleted that post, wrong forum. Ups.
    But yeah I might have purchased 1998 Trabsalp 600. Heaps of power and torque compared to NX but also quite heavy and vibey.
  8. Dsgb031

    Dsgb031 The older I get, the faster I was

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2016
    Oddometer:
    393
    Location:
    D-port IA
    That is a VERY well done build. My hat goes off to you sir
    DietcokeAni likes this.
  9. DietcokeAni

    DietcokeAni Annette

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2013
    Oddometer:
    33
    Location:
    Georgia, US
    I have the same question about the brake line.

    I don't know if you've seen the info about the front sprocket, but when you check it, look to see that it has the raised part on the back side. If it doesn't, you'll be able to see wear on the teeth from the wobble. Neither of my 88's had the correct one - and one (24K miles) had wiggled one of the two bolts off! The other one (6K miles) had a sprocket that looked like it was on a racebike for 10 years.

    I'm now waiting on parts to replace the CDI, spark plug and clean the carb on The Ratbike. (24K m)
  10. helloish12321

    helloish12321 n00b

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2019
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Charleston, SC
    How much did you pay for that CDI?[/QUOTE]

    I ordered it directly from their website. paid about $130. Not cheap but its really the only option in the US it seems.
    DietcokeAni likes this.
  11. helloish12321

    helloish12321 n00b

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2019
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Charleston, SC
    I just got my bike running tonight after having it stripped down to repaint the frame. It runs well but I'm having some confusing problems with my clutch. I only rode it once to get it home so I cant say if its a new problem or if I am just now noticing.

    Now that the bike runs I can tell that the clutch does not fully disengage. It has resistance rolling while the engine is off in 1st gear and clutch pulled in. If it is placed in gear with the engine running it will want to roll forward. If I hold it back the bike stalls.
    I have already changed both of the cable adjustments to as tight as they can be and it still cant pull the clutch in far enough. I'm not sure where to go from here.

    I mentioned earlier that the clutch lever in the right engine cover has some wiggle in it, you can see it move a bit as you pull the clutch, and feel it tap on either side of its bore when you move it with your finger. I don't know if it is related but I'm sure it doesn't help.

    Does anybody have suggestions on what to look at before I pull the side cover off and start poking around?
  12. PTC

    PTC Turd polisher

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    760
    Location:
    masshole mofo
    Put it in third while running, roll backwards while slipping the clutch a bit. Repeat 5-10 times. If the plates are stuck this will sometimes free them up.
    #2 Look in the oil fill hole while pulling In The lever to see if the plates move properly.
    #3 pull and measure the cable. Perhaps it is stretched and not pulling enough.
    Then, tear into into it. But order a gasket and a stake nut first as you’ll need to replace those it you do surgery.
  13. helloish12321

    helloish12321 n00b

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2019
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Charleston, SC
    I went outside to check the clutch again.
    I pulled the cable and measured along the entire length (including the curve) at about 108cm. I couldn't find a spec for the original length, but a listing on ebay shows 103cm.
    Looking through the fill hole, I can see that all of the plates come loose (or at least aren't stuck together) when the lever is pulled.
    After checking that, I assumed the cable was simply worn out and too long. I had somebody carefully pull the lever with a screwdriver to the end of its travel (past where the cable can pull it to.) While the bike was on I placed it in 1st. The bike lurched and wanted to pull forward.

    Given this, should I assume the problem is internal and plan on removing the cover?
  14. Spurlock

    Spurlock Long timer

    Joined:
    May 5, 2015
    Oddometer:
    1,688
    Location:
    Vacaville, N. California
    Sounds like the clutch is not disengaging enough. Since you say the shaft going into the case wobbles side to side, not all of the cable travel is actually separating the clutch discs. Time to pull the case and the clutch lifter shaft and see what the problem is. Most models have a needle bearing there. Possibly the bearing is missing?

    -Bill
  15. Kolb Driver

    Kolb Driver Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Oddometer:
    155
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
  16. PTC

    PTC Turd polisher

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    760
    Location:
    masshole mofo
  17. Too Old for This

    Too Old for This Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2019
    Oddometer:
    78
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    Someone stole it it's gone
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  18. valvecrusher

    valvecrusher tractus pro pensio™

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    Feb 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,071
    Location:
    Dos Circlos
    travial, DietcokeAni and PTC like this.
  19. RebelYell

    RebelYell Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    915
    Location:
    somerset nj
    I'm looking for knobby tires but can't seem to find anything other then the trailewings..
  20. scrambler66

    scrambler66 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    660
    Location:
    Germany
    patience - the new Bridgestone AX41 is coming in Jan 2020 :-)

    [​IMG]
    PTC likes this.