Oil drain plug stripped. Any tips?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Camas, Sep 24, 2006.

  1. Camas

    Camas Rooster Bastid

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    I just went to change the oil in a 2000 Kawasaki Super Sherpa 250 I got for my girl. The oil drain plug is stripped out. The plug is OK but the case is stripped out. What is the repair for this? Helicoil? Tap & dye?

    Any tips or links would be great.
    #1
  2. Kraftsman 73

    Kraftsman 73 Been here awhile

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    Sorry to hear about the stripped threads.
    Common repair is to drill out the hole and retap and install Helicoil inserts. First will be to determine the diameter and thread pitch of the drain plug. Measure the outside diameter of the drain plug in millimeters. Metric thread pitch is the distance from one thread to the next thread. Next will be to find the correct Helicoil insert, drill, and tap. The tap is special just for each Helicoil threaded insert.
    Here is where it gets hairy. You need to drill out the old threads in the case. See the problem here. Chips will get into the engine. Chips in engine, no good. One trick is to dip the drill bit in a heavy grease. Drill a little, clean bit, regrease, then drill some more and repeat. Grease will catch most of the chips. After drilling, get a piece of wire, cover in grease, and insert into hole and sweep around to get as much chips as possible out of the engine. Once you are satisfied all the chips are out as possible, get out the tap. Use a tap handle for this operation. Again, coat the tap with grease. Start tapping keeping the tap straight with the hole. Tap a little, remove, clean, and regrease. After about 10 to 15 turns you will have new threads. Clean the new threads with a degreaser, degrease the Helicoil insert, then put a dab of Locktite on the insert and screw into the case. Remove the inserting tool and break off the small tang on the insert. Let the Locktite cure and insert the drain plug. Your are done.
    Oh yea, add oil.
    I have been lucky not need this procedure on any of my bikes.
    Hope this helps and good luck!!
    Kraftsman 73
    #2
  3. Camas

    Camas Rooster Bastid

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    Wow. Sounds like a challange but you described the process well. Thank you and I'll start researching where to get the helicoil and appropriate new drain plug.

    I'd buy the beerz if you want to come do it while I video it.... :rofl

    Thanks again.
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  4. Waco

    Waco Renegade Sickle Hound

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  5. disconnected

    disconnected brap

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    send caffiene a pm , he just fixed his on his KLR.
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  6. jehu

    jehu ∩HƏſ

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  7. OldRider 125

    OldRider 125 Been here awhile

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    I don't know what size drain plug the Super Sherpa 250 has in it, but a 12mm case that is stripped out can be tapped out with a 1/2x20 tap & an automotive drain plug screwed in....
    #7
  8. rufus

    rufus We're burning daylight...

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    Drill and tap the center of your drain plug for a smaller bolt. Put it in with JB weld, then weld it in place.
    #8
    greasyfatman likes this.
  9. Gary B.

    Gary B. Older than dirt...

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    I just did this on my YZF400. A HeliCoil kit cost me almost $70 with the discount I get at my parts supplier. I had the drill & bit. Still cheaper than a case half.:cry
    #9
  10. Lone Rider

    Lone Rider Registered User

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    If there's any metal still there...:D .....I'd try to run a tap up there and see if any new threads could be created. It's not like it's under big pressure.

    If threads appear, clean surface and plug bolt w/brake cleaner. Put silicon on the underside of the bolt head and a few threads...and ease her in with some feeling.
    #10
  11. Camas

    Camas Rooster Bastid

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    I was wondering why someone hadn't already made this sort of thing. The site doesn't say how it handles the heat (that I could see).
    #11
  12. Camas

    Camas Rooster Bastid

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    The problem is that I don't know if the drain plug bolt that is in there is the OEM or just some bolt some previous owner stuffed in there. What would you do?
    #12
  13. Camas

    Camas Rooster Bastid

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    Holy carp! $70 bucks for an oil cahnge ...???... ughhh:cry
    I knew the second I put a wrench on it to remove that something wasn't going to be good.

    I ain't doin the "half case thing... at least I say that now. :cry
    #13
  14. Lone Rider

    Lone Rider Registered User

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    I'd ask a dealer what the size is.
    Take your old one there and compare the two.
    Drain plugs/bolts are cheap. What somebody else said about moving up to the next larger size in SAE also makes sense. Auto stores have many to choose from.

    You just need a little/some thread to work with.

    ...edit: Also, Teflon tape can take up a lot of slack/gaps...and is cheap.
    If you can find or create any threads, I'd wrap the bolt/plug with it.
    #14
  15. wickedsprint

    wickedsprint Banned

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    kawasaki aluminum strikes again. I drilled and tapped mine for one of those oil plugs that ahs another oil plug in the middle, that way you never stress the case metal again.
    #15
  16. Camas

    Camas Rooster Bastid

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    You mean the rubber goodie that was posted before?
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  17. wickedsprint

    wickedsprint Banned

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    NO, it is a all steel product, and it threads into the case, it has a little drainplug of it's own even complete with an O-ring seal. N ow your oil drain is steel on steel instead of wearing out the aluminum.
    #17
  18. jehu

    jehu ∩HƏſ

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    They handle the heat just fine. I've used them to replace freeze plugs in Chevy V8 cooling systems. They don't leak or fall out and can be safety wired if you are worried. Many autopart stores have them and they are cheap. There needs to be room INSIDE the motor because they may go in farther than your stock drain plug.
    #18
  19. demononthebrakes

    demononthebrakes Long timer

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    I had a stripped out drain plug on my 97 TL1000S and had a helicoil professionally installed and it still leaked a bit. I finally gave in and tried the expansion plug that a buddy of mine had been begging me to try and it worked GREAT. No more leak and it took the heat just fine as they are designed to be in the side of engine cases.
    #19
  20. caffeine

    caffeine Been here awhile

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    I tapped mine out to 12 inch, unfortunately the only tap i had at 11pm the night before a 1200 mile ride, was course thread not fine, and i had to use a regular bolt...not a shouldered bolt but with the rubberin the center washer on there, it works just fine, doesnt leak...it seems like it "weaps" a little but i think thats becaue im not using a shouldered bolt.

    tap carefully, with a magnet tap if you can, and run oil through a few times before running to get anything out
    #20