Oil level very high in 05 950

Discussion in 'KTM 950/990' started by zoeper, Jul 28, 2019.

  1. nk14zp

    nk14zp Long timer

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    Boatman is correct. In the pic I posted I was never over full on oil or added much coolant. If I was you I would change the oil and make sure you put in the right amount.
    #21
  2. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Ok, so I finally got round to pulling some oil off my bike to get the level back between the marks. I did not have to pull off much to realise there is a strong fuel smell to the oil. So the rise in oil level is due to fuel getting into the oil system. Kind of made up my mind that the original KTM fuel pump is going back in, I must just decide if it is a new one or if I can rebuild the old one. What do you suggest I check on the carbs to ensure problem does not happen again even with "new" pump?
    #22
  3. roookie1

    roookie1 Been here awhile

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    If you get a Dr Bean kit for your stock pump it will probably run for for a long time. Mines at 105000 km now ..Best of luck..
    #23
  4. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Pulled the carbs off last night. Will open them up today and check the floats and float needles and seats. Maybe do the jets on them while I'm in there.
    #24
  5. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Seems like he might be out of stock. Sent message anyway. Hope they are ready soon.
    #25
  6. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Made some progress on the carbs. Carbs looks fairly clean. Float levels looks OK (2.9 and 3.25mm) jets: 42 68 and 165. Jets are pitch black where they protruded into the bowl? The rubber tip of the float needles show a clear ring where they touched against the seats and I think this might be the cause for the fuel getting into the cylinders an then into the oil. See pics. IMG_20190811_203453.jpg IMG_20190811_203402.jpg
    #26
  7. tinwelp

    tinwelp Professional Idiot

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    Flooded float bowls rarely result in fuel draining into the engine unless you've a problem with the breathers too... and that's likely to manifest a host of other issues beforehand. I'd expect to see a puddle of fuel under the bike before the oil level goes up substantially.

    It'll be interesting to hear what you find when you dig deeper.

    Incidentally, your float needle valves look OK (and probably are if the rubber is still soft), but check their function to be sure. Simply blow down the fuel feed hose to the carbs one at a time and lift the float; if you cannot blow past the closed valve, all is fine.

    Black jets??? Very odd. What fuel do you normally use? Corroding jets are common with high ethanol fuels, but I've never seen a brass jet turn black...

    Cheers... Paul
    #27
  8. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    How else can fuel get into the oil if it is not past the float needles? (Just a thought...bike was on its side once, maybe twice since last service. Oops) just slipped in the mud, so no accidents, but might be worth mentioning. I am in South Africa and run it on 95 unleaded fuel. No other residue in bowl, just the jets that turned black.
    #28
  9. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Pic of jets and inside of carb below. IMG-20190811-WA0007.jpg
    #29
  10. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Ordered new needle and seat kits (Floats included?) from Austria and they should arrive today.
    I will do a propper clean of the whole carb and re assemble.
    Also did a electronic conversion of the original pump. Dr Bean is still out of stock, so I cleaned up the original points and added a FET to switch the current while the points will now only do the light duty work of switching the FET. Seems to work well on the bench, so let's hope it lasts at least till Dr bean is in stock again.
    does anyone knows what the best method would be for pulling the old seats? They seem to be a press fit in the aluminum carb body. I was thinking of tapping a thread in them and making a puller to get them out.
    Any better ideas, as last thing I want to do now is cause damage to the carb bodies.
    Any other maintenance that I should do to the carbs while i'm down to this level?
    P
    #30
  11. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    After the conversion it purrrrs like a kitten again. Extent of damage to the points can be seen in close up. This was dressed and works well on the bench now. Time will tell if it will hold up on the bike. IMG-20190902-WA0014.jpg IMG-20190902-WA0012.jpg
    #31
  12. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Ok, so I received the parts yesterday but to my surprise the kits contained only the needle, float hinge pin, retaining screw and float. No seats included.
    I spoke to KTM mechanic couple days prior and he explained in detail how he go about removing the old seats. Come yesterday the story changed to we do not replace the seat and it comes as part of the carb body.
    Can anyone offer some advice as how to get the best out of the old seats? Polishing or other means?
    I hope to get the bike running again this weekend and would appreciate any advice.
    P
    #32
  13. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-) Supporter

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    You could recut the needle seats.The tool is pricey and all can go wrong pretty quick. But I would use (and have used) a Qtip in a drill with metal polish to clean them up. That with new needles should be all you need to do.
    #33
  14. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    Seats are probably ok. The rubber wears first. I wouldn't touch them.
    #34
    Boatman likes this.
  15. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Thanks guys, stroked them gently and putting it back in now.
    #35
  16. tinwelp

    tinwelp Professional Idiot

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    Good to see you're making progress. I still maintain the float valves are probably fine unless the rubber is hard on the tips of the needles... but you have new ones anyway now, so why not just fit and test by blowing down the fuel hose and actuating the float??

    Did you eventually conclude your oil level mystery was caused by your bike lying down for a while? It's been a while since I looked at the standard carbs, but are you sure there's not an overflow or a breather hose that's clogged?

    Cheers... Paul
    #36
  17. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Hi Guys,
    Thanks to all your input my bike is running again. Had some trouble getting a good sync on the carbs. If I sync them at idle and then run up the revs to 7K RPM, the balance keep shifting from front, rear, front rear as the revs increase.
    in the end I did the best I could at 4500RPM and buttoned it up. Took it for a test drive today and the bike pulls well. I think there is more vibration than usual, but I've been out the saddle for a month and it is possible that I was just a bit over eager on the throttle.
    Looking at the jetting database, I noticed that very few people run the air screw at the recommended 2.25 turns out(average of the jetting matrix is 1.7turns). I made the decision to run mine at two turns out thinking that the bike would run more rich and thus cooler. I did however notice that the bike was running into 5 bars at times rather than the "normal" 4 bars on the temp guage. Do I have things backwards in that coming out less on the air screw actually makes the bike run leaner? Why do so many people run with less than 2 turns if standard is 2.25?
    My Setup:
    Front - ACV: 80, Main Air:40, Idle Air:50, Starter jet:68, Main: 160, Idle Air:42, Air Screw: 2Turns
    Rear - ACV: 80, Main Air:40, Idle Air:50, Starter jet:68, Main: 165, Idle Air:42, Air Screw: 2Turns
    Standard Acrapovics, 2005Adventure
    Rear
    P
    #37
  18. zoeper

    zoeper Adventurer

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    Bike's been running for two weeks now and managed to put 1.5K km on it. Bike runs well but still pop a lot on deceleration. No air leaks that I could find, but willing to live with it if it is not harmful to the bike. Might lack a bit on the low end, again not enough to justify opening it up again. Also feels like it might be vibrating a bit more, but could just be the tires. Next big service due in 6K and will look at all the issues then. Timing chains, water pump shaft/ seal etc etc. One thing I want to tackle sooner than later is the front shock service. Had the seal kit stiffer springs and oil for months now. On last weekend's trip I bottomed out the front shocks many times and feel it is time to get it done ASAP. Good thing is no more fuel in the oil. Think those float needles were just past their due date.
    #38
  19. roookie1

    roookie1 Been here awhile

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    Did you check the Tps values? Mine was of, makes big difference..
    #39
  20. Ablaze1

    Ablaze1 n00b

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    I have a 2007 950sm and ran into a similar issue. Shortly after buying the bike last year I changed the oil with the specified amount. After a few hundred miles the bike started to run like crap...idling funny a and driving like hell to the point I thought I'd lost compression. At the time I was leaving the right and left side fuel shut off valves on all the time. Fuel had gradually drained into the crankcase raising the volume and ultimately blowing back out through the crankcase vent into the air box which covered the air filter with oil. The problem resolved with another oil change and good air filter clean out. Since then I have gone to closing the tank fuel valves when the bike will be sitting for more than a few hours, and have not had recurrence of the problem.
    I'm not sure why its doing this. Possibilities for me include the fact the previous owner put a janky looking Mr Gasket aftermarket fuel pump on, presumable to deal with the known stock fuel pump issue. Its possible I have some other fuel pump or carb issue allowing fuel to run into the engine when it is sitting. Still trying to work that out.
    #40