Ok-- educate me about heated gear....

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by flybigjet, May 20, 2019.

  1. flybigjet

    flybigjet Remove Before Flight Supporter

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    So. I've been riding from Denver to Seattle this week and am sitting in my hotel room in Bellevue, Idaho typing this.

    I picked the *worst* week ever to ride-- snow in Telluride, and rain like piss out of a boot today with the temperature barely ever above 40.

    Klim gear may cost a kidney, but at least you stay warm!

    Aaaand? I figured out fast that heated hear is a *must* for the remainder of the ride.

    I've got a BMW aux powerlet port installed just below my left hip (in the side of the ecu compartment) that wires into the harness up by the one on the dash on the bike (2015 GS-LC).

    I thought it would just be "Get a liner, get a powerlet to jacket adapter" and I'd be good to go.

    And then I started reading that the canbus will kick the gear off over 5A draw, and that I can't use the aux port I installed and got lost in the weeds quickly.

    WTF, over?

    Can someone explain what I need to do to run a heated liner and gloves? Nothing fancy, but I *do* want to use the BMW powerlet port that I installed.

    TIA--

    R.
    #1
  2. ATCguy

    ATCguy Been here awhile

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    Can't help you, but feel your pain. I'm on the other side of Yellowstone, and it's been cold with rain & occasional lite snow here since last Friday with temps in the 30s-low 40s. I've got Gerbings gear from my old Goldwing, but the weather's been so gloomy, rainy, and miserable that I haven't even attempted to get out & about on the bike with it. This'll be a good thread for me to watch, as I figured if I did go out... I'd simply plug my jacket/heat controller into the OEM powerlet port up on my dash. Never even gave it a 2nd thought about amp draw until reading this... figured it'd be simple plug & play, but maybe not.

    Another option I have is an SAE plug under the seat, wired direct to the battery for use with a battery tender. Depending on what kind of answers I see here in the morning, maybe I'll go out and try each one with my gear to see how it goes.
    #2
  3. b56tc

    b56tc Adventurer

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    I'm getting the electrical work on my 1250 done at the dealer so I don't have to fight the canbus compatibility battle. I also run Gerbing and asked for an outlet to accommodate it.

    They were quick to recommend a simple sae direct to the battery for this and not risk it going off line when you need it. Doubles as a battery tender port. Makes sense to me.

    The bad news - your thigh port will need to find something else to power.
    The good news - you can solve your problem in 20 minutes after a Walmart run for parts
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  4. chtucker

    chtucker Been here awhile

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    https://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-kanetsu-windstopper-electric-liner.html

    Aerostich at the bottom of the page describes what needs to happen. I am sure if you call them, then can walk you through adding the resistor that they say will make it work?

    *ELECTRIC LINER COMPATIBILITY: 2006 and newer BMW CAN-bus outlets are limited to 5.0 amps. Kanetsu Electric Liner (#267) and the Kanetsu AirVantage Electric Liner (#291) draw 5.5–5.7 amps, so the CAN-bus shuts down the circuit. The Kanetsu Electric Vests and Kanetsu Airvantage Electric Vests are ok because they draw less amps (no heated sleeves). All Kanetsu Liners can be used with the 2006 BMW's if a fused outlet is attached directly to the battery (BMW Accessory Socket #108 and In Line Blade Fuse Holder #4664 with a 10 amp fuse) or if a 1.25 ohm resistor is inserted in the BMW accessory outlet circuit.

    You can probably try and run the jacket on low or medium and not shut down the canbus outlet, but that would be cutting it close...
    #4
  5. flybigjet

    flybigjet Remove Before Flight Supporter

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    Ok-- dumb question: I already have an SAE plug installed, but it's way down by the rear brake pedal (and I don't want to move it), so that won't work and I don't really want to add another-- I'd like to go with a more elegant solution.

    Since the Powerlet port is in the Most Excellent Position, is there any reason why I can't disconnect it from the BMW wiring harness and just connect it directly to the battery with an inline fuse? Yes, it would be always hot, but I don't really see that being an issue?

    That way, I can use the damn powerlet plug that I put in (originally to charge the battery, before I figured out that the canbus screwed me there as well) and I shouldn't be limited by amps for a jacket liner and glove liners?

    Thanks for all of the responses. I'm sitting in the hotel room and it's raining like the Wrath of God-- my bike's parked directly in front of my room and I can barely see it in the rain.

    Tomorrow is going to be Bellevue (just south of Sun Valley) to Lewiston-- it's going to be a shit day to ride, but I have to be in Gig Harbor on Wed night, so it's going to happen one way or the other.

    R.
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  6. JR356

    JR356 Long timer

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    Yes,you can wire direct to battery,should not be an issue as it will only draw power when garment plugged in.
    If you have already wired to the from harness you should easily have enough wire to run under the seat over to the right side of the bike where the battery access cover resides.
    Wiring points easily accessible under battery cover,your SAE lead is likely already wired into the spots you need.
    Negative to the battery terminal visible to you,positive to jump post visible forward of battery.
    You need a torx bit for the post and battery cover bolt,10mm open end wrench for the battery.
    Can use ring connectors on ends of your wiring for a finished job,but in a pinch just strip bare wiring and loop around the terminal/post.Just be aware the forward jump post is "hot" so do not let that wire touch to ground too.

    Good luck,you will be amazed at heated gear,will wonder why you waited so long.
    Check any number of MC shops for heated gear,if you are not too biased in any direction even Harley has heated gear.
    Cycle Gear carries heated gear and they are in many cities.

    Major stumbling block may be finding gear to fit the Powerlet plug

    JR356
    #6
  7. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    A fused lead connected to the battery terminals is easy, cheap & safe. That's been best practice with heated gear forever. I'd not overthink this one and just buy the appropriate lead. The clothing that you choose will determine what type of lead is needed.
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  8. bikermd

    bikermd Been here awhile

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    agree with just adding another port direct to battery. That's what I did and it works great. Don't use a standard car adapter or what was called a cigarette plug. It will not handle the vibration and can easily work loose. The DIN plug that BMW uses is designer to stay put in vibratory situations. you won't have to worry about the power coming and going and having to keep pushing it in.
    #8
  9. bmac

    bmac Long timer

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    Folks that never tried heated gear have no idea how much it can help in the crap conditions you are riding in.

    Wire directly to the battery and you should be fine.

    Start with the heated vest and make sure you have your gear completely sealed up to prevent any wind from getting in. I have been known to use velcro straps around my pants to help with this as well. They provide substantial benefit to this often overlooked area.

    https://www.amazon.com/Reusable-Cin...s&qid=1558436638&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
    #9
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  10. flybigjet

    flybigjet Remove Before Flight Supporter

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    Thanks for all of the replies guys-- it's a plan.

    The down side is that I didn't think of this a week ago. I'm riding from just south of Sun Valley to Lewiston, OR today, and it's raining like I haven't seen in quite a while. This is going to SUCK.

    The bike won't be home until about Sept, but I think after today I'll be alright. I don't have access to much in the way of tools (and I like to make anything I do to the bike look as OEM as possible) other than my emergency toolkit, so I'll tackle this when I get home-- IF I survive today. I think I'll end using the extra powerlet I installed-- from what I've seen, most of the gear uses a round female connector, and there are plenty of controllers/connectors that go from that to a powerlet.

    Which brings upon other point-- Do I need a simple on/off switch, or do I need something fancier? I just want a under jacket (with arms) and possibly some glove liners down the road (my fingers get cold).

    Ugh. Today is going to suck, but I might as well get moving. On the plus side? The Klim gear that my wife got me is very, very waterproof. Thank God.

    R.
    #10
  11. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    You're sort of facing a chicken vs. egg issue, or maybe two. The appropriate power lead, and the necessity (or not) for a separate switch, really follows from the particular heated gear that you choose.

    As there a plethora out there to select from, it's usu. best to determine your gear first. Some have a simple on-off switch, others will have a rheostat, and the cheap stuff just plugs into a power feed.

    Regardless what gear you choose, the lead + switch consideration will be apparent.

    And if you're riding in cold & damp without heated gear, you can do a lot worse than spending ten bucks on some heated chem packs at the local hardware or big box store. Alone, a pair of those underneath your toes can go a long way towards moving an otherwise miserable ride into the bearable territory.
    #11
  12. Xsv

    Xsv Going nowhere, fast Supporter

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    I would not skimp on the controller. Think about your house. On/ off thermostat would not even be a consideration. How about low, medium and high?
    Buy a rheostat once and be comfortable.

    Here are some different varieties
    https://www.warmnsafe.com/collections/heat-troller
    #12
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  13. GucciKit

    GucciKit Adventurer

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  14. ultane

    ultane sqeezin the bag

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    A Gerbings jacket (with sleeve) under my Safari suit (with BMW rain liner in place), controlled by a Gerbings rheostat served me extremely well for 8 years in temperatures down to 30° when I lived in Idaho. BeIow 30° you’ll probably want to have heated pants, and maybe heated gloves if you don’t have a legitimate pair of cold weather riding gloves. When the core of your body is kept warm, the warm blood circulates out to your body to keep it warm. I sorely regret not doing it sooner. Takes all of 7 1/2 minutes to install directly to the battery.

    Just do it. You’ll be grinning from ear to ear.
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  15. ultane

    ultane sqeezin the bag

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    Some of the mountain passes, especially on I-84, may have a crapload of snow, and be closed to traffic (unless you have four wheel drive AND snow chains). I don’t recommend traversing the passes that are covered with snow and ice.

    DAMHIK
    #15
  16. road hammer

    road hammer have map will travel

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    If going the SAE plug way, it's no more technical to add a simple on/off switch up near your left hand. Lets you decide when and how long you get heat and when "off" takes the load off of the bike unlike some hi/lo ballast resister switches or rheostats that still have full load though on a lower setting. (obviously off is off)
    #16
  17. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

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  18. bigjohnsd

    bigjohnsd '14 BMW R1200 GS Adv Supporter

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  19. bmac

    bmac Long timer

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    Don't skimp on the controller. It is the difference between getting by and being comfortable. It is not worth trying to save a few bucks.

    Get the gear now and don't wait to you get home. Your hands will stay much warmer if you keep your torso warm.
    #19
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  20. Tremblay

    Tremblay Been here awhile

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    @flybigjet not sure what your time table looks like. But if you want to ship stuff ahead, or want a garage to do some quick wrenching you're welcome to hit me up. I'm a little east of Seattle proper.
    #20