One man, one moto, the True Adventure!

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by XR Valdeez, Jan 8, 2018.

  1. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    Thank you! We just pulled into Bariloche!! Ima have some good Argentina BBQ tonight!!:dukegirl
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  2. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    Hello from San Carlos de Bariloche!

    We pulled in yesterday from San Martin de los Andes after a cool start, good roads and awesome scenery! As we left own, here's our parting view!

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    It was one of the coldest days we have had so far! All of us had the heated grips going strong! :vardy The scenery was stunning as we headed down the famous Ruta 40 towards Bariloche!

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    Lots of alpine lakes and mountains!

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    This little guy popped out of the brush at one spot we stopped at to take some pictures. He wasn't too timid at all because he's been getting handouts from the people that stop here.

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    And more! Just shrtly after this, we stopped in La Angostura for lunch and then the short ride into Bariloche!

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    Here's the very alpine and European looking civic center in Bariloche!

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    We did the hotel game and found a good one near town, settled in, and walked around town for a bit. Since it was Thanksgiving in the States, I was ready for a good dinner. Greg checked on line and found a great place just up the street from where we were staying! I opted for the rib eye and mashed potatoes! It was DELICIOUS! We ended up at an outside table since they were booked solid. We shared the table with a couple from Brazil, some Israeli's and a German girl. It was quite the international affair! We ended up staying after dinner and having drinks with Jutta, the girl from Germany till about 0100!

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    It got cold outside so they let us have the wine cellar where we had a great time!

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    We were moving a bit slow the next day so we decided to be tourists and take the teleferico up the mountain nearby!

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    We had a good time, saw some great parts of the area and a lunch in the rotating restaurant!

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    That's a LONG way to Alaska!

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    The lake that Bariloche sits on.

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    It was a good day! We came back to the hotel for a "safety nap" as we were all still a bit run down from the night before.....

    Well, we're all caught up! Tomorrow Arjan and I will head south and Greg will head north because he flies home on Tuesday. We have all had a great time riding and hanging out together!

    Until next time,

    Esteban!
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  3. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    Greetings from Esquel!

    Pulled in here a little bit ago from Bariloche! I had a nice ride, good road, cold this morning and another wildlife sighting..... This morning, Arjan is heading toward Osorno with Greg so they can do some camping then Arjan wants to get a new rear tire. We might hook up later on down the way, we will see.

    As I headed south on Ruta 40 I got caught up in a sports car rally of some sorts! Let me tell you, it's a bit unnerving to get passed by some old guys flying down the road in their VERY old sports cars! One moron in a yellow Ferrari pulled right up on my ass and as I went to pass a slower car in front of me, he decided HE was going to pass! Totally shoved me over. Ass-Clown deluxe! :asshat

    When he was stopped in the next town for fuel, I saw him and let him know he's an idiot!

    In case there's any doubt, here's the road sign to prove that I'm on Ruta 40!

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    Big Red was having fun in the mountains and the gas mileage was in the low 50's per gallon! Good times! :ricky

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    Once I got past El Hoyo, the sports car thing had gone another direction, so I stopped for a bite near this lonely stretch of Ruta 40 in Patagonia! Here's looking north...

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    And south...

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    So, I'm getting close to Esquel, my target for the day when, there I am, riding along, minding my own business n shit when, to my utter amazement and disbelief, I see this small critter running across the rode! I do a U-turn and pull up to the edge of the road and grab this quick shot of a friggin' armadillo! That's a first for me..... sorry for the poor quality photo.

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    Almost to town where I finally see one of the classic Ruta 40 signs and decide to get a shot! :thumbup

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    I pull in, find a place quickly and settle in. I took a short walk around town but there isn't much going on here. I was thinking about spending a couple days here, but I think I'll head back to Chile tomorrow and get on the Carretera Austal for a bit! For now, I'm going to follow the route Gonzalo gave Arjan and I awhile back. I also have my friend @baja1kwinner chiming in a bit too on the route as well!

    So, the "One Man, One Moto True Adventure" is back on! The big thing I'm trying NOT to do is hurry up south. As I get closer to Ushuaia I fight the urge to throttle up the pace. I do miss home at times and as I get closer to the end, that feeling surfaces more often. I have already been in touch with Dakar Motos in Buenos Aires to check on rates and shipping destination too.

    Well, I think about wraps up this latest update...…

    Until next time, watch out for old guys in fast sports cars! :dic

    Esteban!
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  4. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf Adventurer

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    That Ruta 40 sign is cool. You see any Rogge look-a-likes in Bariloche? A lot Germans wound up there after the war. Keep up the hard work on the updates.
  5. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    Lol, ya, no Rogge look a likes spotted! :lol3
  6. goodcat

    goodcat Changing latitudes, altitudes and attitudes

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    I see snow
    Me no likey snow
    Go the other way amigo :jack
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  7. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    No worries there my good friend! I'm making sure the white stuff is well above me! :thumbup
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  8. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    Hello from Futaleufu, Chile!

    I have crossed back into Chile for the Carretera Austral! Currently in Futaleufu for a couple days of R&R.... :jkam

    Yesterday morning I left Esquel and headed west. The road was good as was the weather, paved and cool with a light breeze. At Trevelin the road went from asphalt to dirt! The scenery along the way was outstanding and I just putted along taking it all in! :ricky

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    Looking the other direction, it just keeps getting better.

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    So, I'm riding along and think to myself "self, this looks like a good spot for a photo". I stop, snap the shot, then spy something down the road....

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    Just as I suspected, vicious Patagonia rabbits! Fook! I wait till they're looking the other way and make a dash for it. :ksteve

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    Just shy of the border....

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    All the rivers are pretty high this time of year down here because of the snow melt. Lots of water everywhere!

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    This yellow plant looks nice, but apparently it's an invasive one and the locals don't like it.

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    Approaching the Argentinean side....

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    A nice little tranquil crossing. I was all checked out in 5 minutes! Gotta love South American efficiency! This was the end of the dirt too, for now. About 30 miles in all!

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    And back into Chile! It took about 20 minutes to check in and I was good to go!

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    I rode the last few miles into Futaleufu, found a nice place, checked in and settled in for a couple days! I took my Argentina flag off and put the Chile one on again for this next section. I've been looking at a crossing below Chile Chico to cross back into Argentina. It's supposed to be small, run by the military and quiet.


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    Oh, before I forget. I bought my last wristband bling for Big Red!

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    I'll be spending some time around the Carretera Austral seeing the sights and such. I'm still thinking Christmas in Ushuaia is the loose plan still.

    I might head south tomorrow toward Puyuhuapi, we'll see.

    Thank you all for coming along!

    Until next time, watch out for those man-eating rabbits! :lol3

    Esteban!
  9. Meatn'taters

    Meatn'taters Not any more

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    As always, great stuff Esteban! Back solo - probably takes getting used to after so many days with Arjan. You two seemed to travel well together - pretty rare to find a compatible travel companion on trips beyond a few weeks. Travel safe! And thanks for the effort! I appreciate your pics/daily recaps and just plain following along with you. Thank you!
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  10. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    Thanks Meatn'taters! Ya, the solo thing was a bit different, but you get back into the groove and all is good! Thanks for following along!
  11. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    Greetings from Puyuhuapi!

    I left Futaleufu after a good breakfast and headed down the road. The road was good asphalt for a short time then went to gravel. I was still making good time until I got to Puerto Ramirez. After that, the gravel was all loose with decent size rocks sitting on top, FOOK. A few miles later I saw the culprit, a damn grader was "fixing" the road. Once past, I was able to maintain a much better pace ahead of a semi that thought he was in the Dakar, 'cause he was on the gas! I stayed ahead until I stopped at the crossroads at Villa Santa Lucia.

    It was suggested that when I get to Villa Santa Lucia, I head north a couple of miles and look at where the landslide that completely wiped out the village started. It seems that a large glacier came loose from a mountain north of town and caused a huge lahar last December.

    Here's what I saw.....

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    That brown piece of mountain in back is where the glacier was along with a big chunk of the mountain. The mudslide came down from there to where I'm standing, then turned south.....

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    Down there where it was funneled into a small canyon.....

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    Here's the canyon it carved out

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    And then spilled out into the valley and into the village of Villa Santa Lucia. Mother nature can hurl a lot of destruction..... As I rode along back south, you could see where people have dug up personal belongings of people that lived on the north side of the village. Sad.

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    I said goodbye to the destruction left from the slide and headed south. If felt good to be on the Carretera Austral! The first bit was all good pavement. I stopped in La Junta for a snack and got rolling again. Several miles south, the road went to gravel, where I still made good time.

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    Photo op on the way! I love this country!

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    And so does Big Red!

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    I pulled into Puyuhuapi around 1300 hrs. I gassed up, found a place to stay easily, then relaxed! This little town is on an inlet that goes to the Pacific Ocean. It's small but has LOTS of hostels and places to stay. When I was in Futaleufu, the people that ran the place I stayed at suggested I stay at the Puyuhuapi Lodge. Ya, uh no! $350 a night, a bit more than I want to spend for a bed!

    Today is going to be a relax day and so will tomorrow with 100% chance of rain! Yep, I'm not riding in the rain when I do not have to. I did some looking at the map and with the route I'm on, Christmas in Ushuaia should be no problem!

    Friday I should be in Coihaique!

    Well that about does it for this update. I'm going to head out and snap a couple pics of this place and maybe have a cold beverage!

    Thanks for coming along!

    Until next time,

    Esteban
  12. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    STORMWATCH 2018!

    That shit cracks me up! Every time they forecast rain in Los Angeles, the news channels are all on "storm watch". Ugh, it's a bit ridiculous.... :eek7

    Well, true to form here, it's raining, steady and fairly hard and has been for a bit. NO regrets staying out of it. There's a bit of dirt up and over the mountain to my south with a lot of switchbacks, so I feel good NOT heading out today.

    As I said, I headed out yesterday and snapped a few pics of town...…

    Here's the main street, complete with one police car.....

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    The main plaza.....

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    The waterfront...…

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    More waterfront.....

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    The Rio Pasqua as it flows through town.... And LOOK! Do you see it? Look close... exactly, NO FRIGGIN' TRASH! :thumb

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    And look here. See it? The bottom of the river is actually visible! Clean, clear, fresh water! Sorry, I may have gone a bit overboard, but in ALL the countries from Bolivia north, all the rivers, streams and creeks are filled with trash! Even the ones out in the sticks if they get anywhere close to civilization or the highway have trash in them. It's really sad to see. So far, Chile and Argentina have been relatively trash free!

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    My final and parting shot of Puyuhuapi!

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    Thanks for coming on this brief tour!

    Until next time,

    Esteban :drink
  13. forgorin

    forgorin Stuck in Japan

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    I've been enjoying your travels! So glad that you are keeping up with your report. I think it must be tiresome at times. Tho, you do get to have the feeling of being in contact with a whole bunch of people!

    Looking forward to more!
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  14. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

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    Hello from Coihaique!

    I puled in here yesterday from Puyuhuapi after a beautiful ride! Let's get started! I woke up to nice sunny skies and cool temps! I hit the Ruta 7, the famous Carretera Austral!


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    After a short bit of real nice, new pavement, the road turned into nice packed, moist gravel! NO DUST!

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    The scenery was awesome the entire way! It became hard to stop or not stop to take a picture.....

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    BIg red was having a good day in the Austral!

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    I passed by many waterfalls, but this one was one of the biggest!

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    I did at stop at Lago Las Torres for a look!

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    Just another typical Carretera Austral scenery moment.... :lol3

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    So, I pull into Manihuales for a bite and see a BMW parked next to a restaurant. I think to myself, "self, we oughta stop too". When I pulled up, I see the plate on the bike is from New Mexico! I went inside and met the rider, Mohammed. A nice guy who has been on the road for a bit over a year and is getting ready to go to Ushuaia and join a scientific expedition to Antarctica! You just never know who you're meet on the road! Safe travels and good routes Mohammed!

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    Just down the road from Manihaules, the Carretera Austral goes to gravel again or you can take the paved way around. We took the road less travelled! The views just got better!

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    After a few construction delays, I finally pulled into Coihaique! As I entered town, I saw something familiar! Just like the one outside U.S.M.C. 1st Tank Battalion Headquarters back in the 80's, an M-4 Sherman Tank! How's this this for some classic heavy metal!

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    This brought back a LOT of memories! How cool. When I pulled up, I asked the soldiers at the gate if I could pull my motorcycle next to the tank. They went into their guard shack and moments later the OOD comes out. I ask him and he says NO PROBLEM! He even came over and offered to take a picture with me next to the Sherman! This base is the home of the Chilean 14th Regiment (REIN) "AYSEN". Semper Fi!

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    Later that day after checking into my hotel, @Thomas B. gets a hold of me and says they're going to be heading this way. I elect to hold in place until they arrive the following day.

    As we speak, Sandra has dinner going and it smells REALLY good! Tomorrow we are going to Puerto Tranquillo and stay for a day or so. We plan on seeing the marble caves on the lake. From there, who knows!

    Well, I hope you all enjoyed the Puyuhuapi to Coihaique ride as I did! I had a blast...…

    Thank you all for following along on the journey!

    Until next time, watch out for those TANKERS!

    Esteban!
  15. XR Valdeez

    XR Valdeez Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Hola from Cochrane!

    We pulled into town a couple of hours ago and got settled in. But back to where I left off!

    We left Coihaique early and headed south on the Austral! We had a perfect riding day, sunny skies, cool temps and good roads!

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    Heading down to Villa Cerro Castillo and a coffee break. The pavement ended there and the construction delays began.....

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    My new riding partners, Thomas and Sandra!

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    Coffee stop in the village...

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    And the delays..... After this stop, there was no more, but the traffic got all bunched up and the dust was miserable!

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    We followed this valley for quite some time on our way to Puerto Tranquillo. Very pretty!

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    Sandra at speed on the Carretra Austral

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    Ever changing scenery!

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    We rolled into town around 1400 and looked for a place. After playing the hotel game for a bit, we found a nice "cabina" from a guy who just happened to have a marble cave tour at 1530. We dumped our gear and headed out on the lake to see the marble caves.

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    Very interesting formations of marble, I'm guessing done by the ice a long time ago.

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    The water was pretty clear and had a light blue tint to it.

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    Our skipper was able to pull the boat a good ways into the caves....

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    The dogs head

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    Cruising along

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    When we got back, Sandra made a nice dinner and we all relaxed around the very efficient fireplace. The next day we were going to Cochrane.

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    On the way out of Puerto Tranquillo

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    Today's ride would be all dirt for the 70 miles ride to Cochrane.

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    More spectacular scenery!

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    Off we go after a photo stop

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    Getting close to our destination

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    We pulled into Cochrane around 1400, found a place quickly and settled in. We did some quick grocery shopping for dinner, which Sandra just put in the oven.

    Tomorrow we are going to Villa O'Higgins and the end of the Carretera Austral.

    We're going across the street to the brew pub for a cold one, so I'm going to end this now!

    Thank you for coming along!

    Until next time,

    Esteban!
  16. Misery Goat

    Misery Goat Positating the negative Super Moderator

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    Nice pics! It's so weird seeing the Austral with so much asphalt. They've been busy since I was there. Will you go to Chalten? I highly recommend it if you can.
    XR Valdeez likes this.
  17. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf Adventurer

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    Always knew you had tanker blood in you.
  18. borscht zanetti

    borscht zanetti Pura Vida ! ... eh?

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    Beautiful country and awesome pics !
  19. Vin

    Vin Hopeless Addict

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    Making me smile!!! So many of those exact places are snapshots in my mind. Looking warmer and drier than when I passed through.
    Carry on.
  20. CzDavec

    CzDavec Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2010
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    So Cal
    Damn Man,
    Fantastic scenery and great riding.
    How in the world can you stand it ??:lol3
    You should have poked that Ferrari driver in the damn nose. Just goes to show you that America doesn't have a monopoly on Ass Clowns.
    Ride Safe Amigo