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Oregon to Ushuaia on an XR650L

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Ulyses, Oct 29, 2012.

  1. Ulyses

    Ulyses Long timer

    Mar 30, 2012
    Portland, OR
    I would avoid that stuff like the plague if I were you! :rofl
  2. PDX Alamo

    PDX Alamo Been here awhile

    May 18, 2012
    San Antonio, Texas
    Here is a list of places that i have combined with Ulyses list he made, here is the link to his original post.


    Here is his ride report also. Here's the link:


    Here is my ride report

    I also recommend getting a few Iphone apps , I overlander app for Iphone, Pocket Earth pro, and the Kindle app so you have the travel guides with you.

    Pocket earth on iphone has lots of palces to stay and on android OSM AND has the same.




    Places to Stay and Highlights in S. America:

    1.) First off, do yourself a favor and buy the Lonely Planet guide to S. America. They will have good hotel/hostal information for all of the major cities and a lot of the medium sized ones. Buy it in ebook form and keep it on your phone or kindle or whatever you have. That way you won't waste a lot of space carrying a paper book. I found a lot of places to stay from that book. Definitely worth it.

    Finally, here are some of the highlights of where I stayed with the corresponding links from my blog for the time I stayed there.

    *Also, I threw in a couple of the highlights of my trip. They are marked with the asterisk and highlighted in yellow.

    Colombia :


    Cartagena, Colombia: Mamallena's Hostel. I didn't actually stay here in Cartagena because they were full, but it's an option. Check out the hostals and hotels in Gethsemani area. I found one a few buildings down from mamallenas that let me park in their courtyard.


    Hotel San Rocque. This is where I stayed. I split it with another rider because it was expensive. AC, wifi, and parking in the courtyard.


    El Viajero which is a very nice hostel, at least the private rooms are at $25 a night w/ aircon and $1.25 beers at the bar, but you would be had pressed to get a bike in here unless your a trials guy.

    Hotel Colonial since they would let me park the bike inside the lobby, Aircon and breakfast , forget the price but think it was $30 or something. Hotel San Rouque told me that I would have to park it in a public bike lot which after inspection and watching a guy drop a bike thought no dice.

    Sincelejo, Colombia. In between Cartagena and Medellin: Don't stay at this place unless you are feeling rich. American prices and american amenities. I met several americans from the state department here. I only stayed here out of necessity:


    The Hotel Boston. I knew it was pricey but I didn't care I was tired and overheating. The place is overpriced $65 US and lots of comically loud road noise but if you need parking they got it.

    Medellin, Colombia: Buster's British Pub. A must!!! Contact Al (inmate name: theturtleshead) in advance and make sure he's got a room. Here's his thread on advrider: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=643580&page=6. You'll propbably also want to try and email him or the pub or even just give them a call. They only have a few rooms, so make an effort to reach out to him as far in advance as you can and get a spot. Even if you don't end up staying here, get in touch with this guy, he's got a load of information.


    Black Sheep Hostel (Parking for bikes), reasonable price and walking distance to lots of stuff.

    Medellin: other places to stay: there are a ton of hostels near the Shamrock. Most have secure parking. Stay at one of them if only for the proximity to Busters British Pub.

    Santa Rosa, Colombia: in between Medellin and Cali. Cool hotsprings here, can't remember where I stayed, but there were lots of little hotels and campgrounds in the area. Talk to Al. Limited wifi availability. http://brycebissinger.blogspot.com/2012/12/busted.html


    Plantation House which was nice, cheap, and had Moto parking.

    Cali, Colombia: Casa Blanca Hostel. This hostal is run by mike. He's a Scandinavian dude that lives in Colombia and runs a motorcycle rental place/hostal/bike shop. Cool dude, has lots of good info. http://brycebissinger.blogspot.com/2012/12/cali.html

    Yo Viajero hostel which is top notch. I booked a double bed room and much to our dismay when showed the room learned it was a double bed not two beds. I paid $43 US for the room. They do have a pool and Salsa lessons, dorm rooms are way way cheaper.

    Pasto, Colombia: Just before the border with Ecuador. Hotel Koala Inn. No secure parking, but I found a parking garage a few blocks away. Reasonable price. http://brycebissinger.blogspot.com/2...ble-roads.html

    Chachagui,:( just outside Pasto before you get there)

    Hostel Kundur Amazing grounds with a pool and lots of bike parking. It would be great for a few days of down time also. We paid $25 each for a split room with private bath. Its in Chachagui Colombia and a bit tricky to find. You think you are going down the wrong street but your not. They also have a nice pool



    Cayambe, Ecuador: Hacienda Guachala. This is a really cool place to stay! It's an old hacienda from 1590. The rooms have wood fireplaces that burn eucalyptus wood. And it's about .5 mile from the Equator and the little monument that they have there. It's a little out of the way and kind of expensive, but worth it.


    Ibara: Hotel Royal Ruiz with parking , $50 for a room with two double beds and fast wifi. Parking is offsite but well guarded.

    Quito, Ecuador: Casa Bambu Hostel. Private rooms: $15, a bed in the dorm: $7. Plus, a private garage for the bikes. Plus, it's a really quiet, low key kind of place without a bunch of wasteoids making a rukus all night.


    Quito: I stayed in some dump I hated but cant remember the name but Freedom Bike rentals now has a place so that might be the place to be.

    Machachi : (Just outside Quito)

    Very nice hotel Amanecer Del Valle Hotel great parking , the only hotel I think in town. We grab some grub and hit the hay after a walk around town and stops at the pastry shop.


    Hostel Oasis with parking for the bikes, great place with cool rooms that looks like a medieval castle. It's a steal at $13 each for our own shared room with a bathroom.

    Banos, Ecuador. Hostal Casa Real; $15 for a private room with wifi, private bathroom, secure parking, hot water, and free breakfast. Couple of hot springs in this town.http://brycebissinger.blogspot.com/2...to-jungle.html

    Alausi, Ecuador: Hotel Europa for $10. Secure Parking. This is the town where you can ride the "Nose of the Devel" Nariz del Diablo train. It's not really worth it. I'd skip it if i did it again. http://brycebissinger.blogspot.com/2...other-day.html

    Cuenca, Ecuador: Hostel Casa Cuenca dorm bed for $8. Secure Parking. http://brycebissinger.blogspot.com/2...-blocks_7.html

    park it in a public lot for $5 and stay at Hotel Cuenca for $39, the place was very nice, the room massive, and the breakfast top notch.


    Tangara Guest House, kinda of pricey, $50 for private room with aircon and own bath. Great secure bike parking. I left the bike here for almost two weeks. Great owner.


    Hotel Bambu, awesome place and cheap. Parking would be secure although I didn't have my bike.

    Puerto Lopez:

    Hosteria Mandala ( Great parking for cars or bikes) Not Cheap but a steal at $50 a night by any standards. It was right on the beach with little huts that you could hang a hammock in. The rooms were all done in interact woodwork and everywhere you looked was cool art. The owners were really great to



    Tambo Grande, Peru: I wouldn't go to this town if I were you. It's better to cross into Peru further east and go through the mountains. If you do end up here for some reason, there are only a few places to choose from. I stayed at the most expensive place and just camped in their yard for cheap. http://brycebissinger.blogspot.com/2...d-to-peru.html


    Hotel WaWa which I was told was $25 a night. After a 30 minute search I was shocked to learn it was $56 a night. By Peru standards that was outrageous and it was a subpar room at best. Anyway I looked sad and it was knocked down to $40 a night. Great parking though, so beggars cant be choosers. It was also Christmas Eve which might explain the price increase.

    Huanchaco, Peru: This is a great staging town for Canon del Pato, a must ride road! Seriously, you've got to ride this road. Al will tell you all about it. In Huanchaco I stayed at Nay Lamp Hostal. Cheap camping, wifi, secure parking in a huge garage. Huanchaco is a cool beach town. If you want to chill on the beach for a while, this is a good place.


    +1 Hostel Naylamp which had fantastic secure parking for bikes and it was $12 a night for a private room with your own bath. Great place and good crowd, pizza sucked but otherwise I highly recommend it. Right on the beach!

    *Canon del Pato: One of the best roads of the ride! It follows an old railroad bed up a steep canyon. Awesome dirt road with tons of tunnels carved straight out of the rock.



    Hostel Gledel which is nothing special but they have parking and its $5 a night for your own room. Shared bath, but don't expect wifi, a towel, or soap. Hey its $5 a night. I wandered around town for food in the rain but only found one place open.

    Huaraz, Peru: Jo's Place. Secure Parking, wifi. Camping if you want. After you ride the Canon del Pato, you can stay in Huaraz. It's a cool mountain town up in the Andes. There is even a brewery owned and operated by an American Expat. He makes a killer IPA. One of the few that I had on the trip. I was here in the rainy season, but there are some awesome hikes up here.



    Albergue Churup. Super nice place with parking for the bike and a steal at $20 a night for your own room and bath. Awesome place


    Hostal Pilar. Nice place with parking, my own giant room with bath for $10. The parking part was tricky getting into the courtyard but it worked. I doubt a 1200 GS could get in there.

    Huanuco / Amarilis:

    I stayed at the Gran De La Vega hotel across from the "Delta" Petrol Peru station on the way out of town. It was $10 , very nice, and had great secure parking.


    Casa De Abuela which was ok and it had parking. There is no reason I can think of to really come here to this town unless you just need to stop. $25 a night I think.


    They have a place to stay and gas. nothing nice, stayed in some dump for $5.


    Your own on your own here, I parked in a guys garage a mile form the hotel and almost didnt get my bike back. This town is unsafe , or at least that was my feel.

    Lima, Peru: Hitchhikers Backpackers Hostel, Miraflores District. This is a great place to stay. Lots of overlanders stay here. I met a couple of American couples in trucks that I met again later in Patagonia. They have a courtyard for secure parking, wifi, laundry, etc. Here is their website: http://www.hhikersperu.com/# Miraflores is the really nice neighborhood in Lima. This would be a good place to stash your bike if your girlfriend flies down to see you in Peru. I also stayed in a Hotel in the Barranco District, but I can't remember the name. The hostel is your best bet.


    Nazca, Peru: The Nazca Inn. Run of the mill hostel. Secure parking inside the building. Laundry, wifi, etc. I just drove around till I found this one. I think it was on my GPS. If you want to see the Nazca Lines, spend the money on a fly over. There is a little watchtower outside of town that you can see a few of the lines form, but it doesn't do it justice.


    Arequipa, Peru: "Hostal Sumay Wasy". The room is nice, the wifi works (sometimes), they have parking for one or two bikes in the entry way, and they have showers with lukewarm water. That's about all you can ask for. The Hostal is a block or two from the Cathedral. Lot's of cool stuff to see in Arequipa, including the ice mummies. Good staging city for Colca Canyon as well.


    Cusco, Peru: Kokopelli Hostel. Cool place, get the bunks in the nice dorm. They have privacy curtains, power outlets, little lockers in your in your bunk. Nicest dorm bunks I stayed in on the trip. Secure parking inside their building.


    *The backdoor into Machu Pichu: If you go see Machu Pichu from Cusco you have a few options. You can take the train for a couple $100....or, you can do it the awesome way and drive one of the most awesome roads on the trip to a little town called Santa Theresa/Hidro electrico.. This is the "backdoor" into machu Pichu. Check out the write up here: http://brycebissinger.blogspot.com/2013/01/cusco.html

    Also, at the bottom of this post is a slightly better write up with pictures and maps to explain how the Santa Theresa/Hidroelectrico route works:


    Santa Teresa:

    You can stay here as a way to Mach Pichu I Stashed the bike at the hostel Yacumama with all my gear in a room at the low cost of 80 soles a night. I now know the guy at the train tracks , Pablo Escobar (Not the dead drug dealer) is super trustworthy and should have left it there. The room was one of the nicest the whole trip and owners awesome.

    Agua Caliente, Peru: This is the little tourist trap of a town that you have to go through to get to Machu Pichu. You can't ride your motorcycle here. The only way to get in is by Train or hiking. I can't remember where I stayed....it doesn't really matter though. Everything is priced about the same. Just walk around until you find a decent place. I hated this little town.

    A different perspective by PDX Alamo

    Aqua Calientes:

    You cant bring your bike here and there are lots of places to stay that are cheap, eat at the Feliz Andian, $20 for best meal you will ever have.

    Somewhere on the Alitplano between Cusco and Lake Titicaca: If you are riding with some other folks or just feel like doing a little rough camping, you can always just find a little pasture or secluded spot off the road and rough camp. It's free! I can't remember the exact location of this campsite, but it was badass. Here are the blog posts that give you a rough idea of where we camped:





    You will never stay here unless you have a KLR with a busted shock and its nightfall but they have a place if you need it with bike parking. Chivay is 30 minutes away and much nicer place to stay.


    Hotel by the Peru Petrol station , its right next to it and had great parking for the bikes; called "el" something it buts up against the gas station parking lot. Cant miss it.



    La Paz, Bolivia: Hotel Oberlander: pretty expensive, especially for Bolivia, but the camping is cheap. Also, Great wifi, hot showers, good food, sauna, Jacuzzi, pool, the works. Also, a communal kitchen. One of the nicest places I stayed. Worth it.


    Potosi, Bolivia: Hostal Compania de Jesus; they have solid wifi and charge 90 Bolivianos for a "doble" (room with double beds) which works out to 45 Boliviano or about $6 apiece



    Hotel Nuevo Milenio , Av Universitaria 450 which had ok rooms but fantastic indoor parking in a massive enclosed courtyard and top tier artwork. Cheap

    Unuyi, Bolivia: Can't remember where I stayed here, but I remember that I found it on the Lonely Planet guide. It was a hotel and they had secure parking around back. There are a few places to stay here; it's a big tourist town. Everyone is here to see the Salar.



    Hotel Inti? I think I do not remember the name but it had great parking and was across from the big playground on the main street. Hotel was ok but its Bolivia so what can you expect.

    *Salar de Unuyi/Lagunas Route: the three days of riding in the Salar and Lagunas

    was probably the best part of the trip for me. If the Salar is relatively dry, you should ride across it and then jump into the Lagunas Route. If it is flooded, then just go take some pictures of it and then ride the Lagunas Route. You can actually do this route without camping (there are some little hotels out in the middle of nowhere that you can stay at) but I recommend camping if you can. And don't forget to go to the Aduana at the Mining camp out in the middle of nowhere and get your motorcycle paperwork done! We missed it and had to bribe the cops at the Bolivia/Chile border to get out of the country. I think I still have my GPS route somewhere....if you want the tracks for your GPS let me know and I'll try and find them and email them to you. Here are the write ups:




    Villa Mar :

    This is on the Lagunas route and we stayed at Hostal Las Piedritas, awesome place with great parking.

    Laguna Colorado:

    Hostel which i called the bum shack its next to the store which had wine , beer and minimal food.




    Things get a little erratic from here. I did lots of camping and didn’t always write down where I stayed or camped. I did record some of the GPS lat/longs for some campsites. They are both safe countries. It's also expensive as shit in Chile. Hence the camping. There is also a big camping culture in Chile and Argentina, so there are lots of cheap municipal campgrounds in the small towns. I found a lot of them through the GPS waypoints on the open source maps.

    San Pedro de Atacama, Chile: this is where you end up after the Salar/Lagunas route. I stayed in a hotel one night and a campground the other. Can't remember the names, but look in the Lonely Planet guide. Prices are high! I recommend camping. Great way to meet the locals.

    San Pedro De Atacama:

    This whole town is EXPENSIVE but worth it, so-so room for 3 was $60 US but had parking and camping I think its name was Hotel Poblado Kimal, lots of bikes here, its just before Hostal Tulor . Everything was on par with USA prices.

    Pan de Azucar national park:

    Camping right on the beach, nice place.

    Taltal, Chile: I camped on the beach just north of town. Awesome spot.



    Huasco, Chile: Camped at: (-28.41573, -71.19815). One of the coolest little stealth camps I did on the trip. After I cleared out the trash and broken bottles.


    Los Villos, Chile: Camped at a campground on the beach. It was more expensive than I had planned on. I think I found it by looking at signs on the PanAmercian Highway. This far south in Chile, the PanAmerican is like an American Freeway.


    La Serena:

    Hibiscus Hostel and it was pretty good. The owner of the hostel manages the local motorcycle shop so he we grabbed some brake pads, oil, and oil filters from his store and he had no problem with us turning the courtyard into a motorcycle repair shop.

    Santiago, Chile: "Hosteling International", it's a Hostal. Great place. Secure parking was hard to find in Santiago. They have a huge secure gravel parking lot in the back yard where you can park.


    Lake Vichuquen, Chile: Stealth camping in a tree farm: (-34.80185, -72.03659). Cool place. Me and an Aussie guy that I met at a gas station found this place. He was riding a DR650.



    Lota, Chile: municipal campground (-37.11664, -73.15027) that was listed on our GPS. It ended up only costing 500 Pesos (about $1.00) per person to camp there, so we stayed and took advantage of the bathrooms.


    Futalefu Chile:

    Lots of camping there, place was nice cant remember the name.

    Pucon, Chile: Can't remember where I stayed here. It was a chilean holiday and everything was booked solid! Still, there are tons of places to stay...this is kind of a big tourist spot for chileans. Check the Lonely Planet guide.

    Coyhaique Chile:

    It is a decent size town and I set up in the Patagonia hostel as it was late and I was tired. They had parking and it was a nice place with a welcoming atmosphere.

    Puerto Rio Tranquilo Chile:

    Wild camp if you can as all the “camping spots” are like refugee camps.

    Cerro Sombrero Chile TDF:

    It was f'in cold and windy. Just past the gas station ( that has banking hours ) in town on the left is a road that leads down and there is a cheap hostel there called Hostel Primavera. Its not on any maps and tricky to find but I loved this place. I am not sure why perhaps because I was so cold or just the owners attitude but it had simple rooms with heat and the women running it was super nice in a motherly sort of way. She made dinner and breakfast as well. In case your wondering its not the hosteria as you enter town that place is like $60 a night or some crap. My own room with heat , I was living large. I figure I better get a good nights sleep because tomorrow was the final push to the end of the road.

    Punto Arenas:

    Hostel Torres Del Paines, parking but not very nice. You can find better.

    Bariloche, Argentina: Can't remember where I stayed. Big tourist town. Tons of hostals to choose from. Check lonely planet.



    Gobenador Costa, Argentina: Municipal Campground. It was only $2. This is a small town in the middle of nowhere. Just ask where the campground is.


    Fitz Roy, Argentina: I stayed in a little hotel, I think it was the only one in town. It was expensive but I was tired. There was a campground here too.


    Rio Gallegos, Argentina: I stayed in a couple of places here. I don't remember where exactly, I was dealing with some bike trouble and didn't write it down. I hated this town. Try and find the Hostal, it's the cheapest place in town.


    *Look up Manolito in Rio Gallegos. He's a local guy and speaks good English. He's on ADVrider and loves to meet riders as they pass through on their way to Ushuaia. Send him a PM. He'll show you around and help you out. Awesome guy!


    Rio Grande, Argentina: Ruta 40 Hostel. Cool place, small, not on the maps. Its right next to a icecream shop/tattoo parlor if I remember correctly. It's expensive but cool.


    Ushuaia, Argentina: I stayed in a Hostal the first couple of nights here. I think it was called Polar Bear or something, I don't remember, I was drunk from too much celebrating at the Irish Bar. There is also a campground at the local Ski resort that I stayed at. Plenty of places to choose from here.

    Punta Arenas, Chile: Don't recall where I stayed here either. There are lots of options. Look in Lonely Planet.


    Punto Arenas, Chile

    Hostel Torres Del Paines, parking but not very nice. You can find better.

    *If you are having bike trouble or need new tires or chains, go see this guy:


    Also, you can sell your bike in Punta Arenas at the Zona Franca if you want to call it quits from here. I knew a couple of guys that did it.

    Puerto Notales, Chile: This is the staging point for Torres del paine. Places to stay:

    The Tin House. Cool little hostel. Really nice place, owned by an American woman and her chilean husband. Secure parking, wifi, great breakfast!

    Erratic Rock Hostel. This place is owned by some native Oregonians! It's a bit crowded and not as nice as the Tin House, but it's cool and they'll let you keep your bike in the back yard while you hike in Torres del Paine. They also rent hiking gear (backpacks, trekking poles, etc)


    *Torres del Paine. Awesome hiking!!!!! Try and do the entire circuit if you can. If not, do the "W". Here is the start of my write up:


    El Calafate, Argentina: Campground. Can't remember what it was called but they had a great BBQ place on site. Some friends stealth camped just out of town...so that's an option too.


    *Perrito Moreno Glacier: go see this glacier. Its iconic. El Calafate is the typical staging town.

    El Chalten, Argentina: I camped at a hostal here. Tons of places to camp or stay. Lot's of dirtbags here. Watch your stuff!

    *Fitz Roy and other hiking at El Chalten: tons of good hikes to do from here. I just staged at a campground in town and did a bunch of day hikes. Write up starts here:



    Gobenador Gregores, Argentina: Can't remember where I stayed here. It was my birthday, i got a little drunk. This is a small town on Ruta 40. Camping is an option. There are a couple of hotels too.


    Chile Chico, Chile: Campground. Can't recall the name. It was nice. They had wifi. It's near the lake.


    *Carretera Austral: You need to drive this road. It's like Alaska in Patagonia. Lot's of places to stealth camp. There are a few options for where you can start/finish.

    Coyhaique, Chile: Tourist town. Stayed in a hostal owned by some German guy and his family. Found it on Lonely Planet.


    Esquel, Argentina: Once again, can't remember where I stayed. It was a Hostal.


    Dolavon, Argentina: Municipal Campground. It's a small town. Just ask where the campground is or find it on your GPS. It was only a dollar or something.


    Puenta Piramides, Argentina: Municipal Campground. This one was pricey! $12.


    Las Grutas, Argeninta: Campground. There are tons of campgrounds and hostals. This is a big beach town. I stayed at a campground that was for cops on vacation. Just look on the GPS or check lonely planet.


    Coronel Pringles, Argentina: Municipal Campground. This one was co-located in the city park. Small town, just ask where the park/campground is.


    Buenos Aires, Argentina: Tons of hostals to choose from. Secure parking is hard to find...but....you can stash your bike at Dakar Motos. They have a few bunks that you can rent or you can just stash your bike there and find something downtown.

    *Dakar Motos: Sandra and Javier. They own the shop. They primarily do bike shipping. They also have some tires for sale and other odds and ends. These are the people to talk to about shipping your bike home. With Dollar Blue, flying your bike from Buenas Aires to the USA is probably the cheapest option.



    *There is a cool beach town called "Punta del Diablo" or something like that. It's only accessible with an offroad vehicle. I didn't go, but I heard it's a cool place.

    La Paloma, Uruguay: Hostelling International. It's a nice little hostal, only a few blocks from the beach.

    Colonia, Uruguay: this is where I took the ferry back to Buenos Aires. There is a campground or two and some hostals. I elected for a Hostal as it was raining.

    More Argentina :ear,


    Mendoza Argentina:

    Sosahaus, Great parking but the dorms are brutal hot. The owner was amazingly helpful. They have nicer aircon rooms there also so that might be the way to go but they were full.

    Hostel Alamo ; splurged for AC since it was unbearably hot there secure parking and a small wading pool.

    Malargue Argentina:

    Cool hostel on a farm called Eco Hostel. Nice rooms, a BBQ, and nice relaxing country feel. The whole place was built in that hippy mud stuff with glass bottles in the wall and what not. Good parking and lots of it.

    Las Lajas Argentina:

    Stayed at a campground we found on the iOverlander iPhone app. Not a bad little campground with some BBQ stations so we cooked us up some sausage and carrots using the Argentinean method of carbon an not charcoal.

    San Martin De Los Andes Argentina:

    The town had a Aspen Telluride feel to it, not really my kind of place. They do have a Xoom pickup location there so I wanted to grab some more money at a better rate. It was Sunday so the store was closed and we found a campground that would have been nice without thousands of people. Luckily it cleared out as night approached and wasn't so bad after all. Several campgrounds here and hotels.

    Peirto Moreno Argentina:

    I camped at the municipal campground using one of the cabins there as a wind break since the wind was putting on a show as it does around these parts


    Stayed at the free municipal campground which had hot showers and was nice enough.

    El Chalten Argentina:

    A great hostel called Pionero Del Valle with some of the best showers of the trip, super clean, and something I had not experienced the entire trip.....heat. Yes they had a heater in the room. It was about $16 a night and they had giant lockers that took all my moto gear and bags. This place was great, wifi sucked but the dorm I was in #1 only had 4 beds and its own shower and bathroom. They don't have secure parking but you can park it in the back of the place and it seems pretty securish. Camping is also an option in the town as well.

    Perito Moreno Glacier Argentina:

    No place to stay there but outside of it is free camping at Lago Roca down a dirt road. At first we didn't want to stay there thinking it was 30k in and 30k out but it turned out there was a connecting dirt road back into town so we only added maybe 10k to the trip. Man O man one of the best spots of the trip also. Not camping in tent city refugee camp but real camping. There is another place 3 miles up the road further with a restaurant but trust me you want the free camping on the lake. Wild horse ran through the camp at one point down to the lake, pretty bad ass.

    Ushuaia Argentina:

    You can camp in the National Park which comes with your admission ticket since you have to pay to get to the end of the road anyhow might as well stay here.

    Antartica Hostel which was pretty nice and they let me squeeze my bike through the lobby into the backyard.

    Hope this helps! I expect to repaid with awesome stories of your adventure!

  3. brecchi

    brecchi Been here awhile

    Jan 20, 2005
    Hey Bryce - just got finished your RR after being glued to it for a week. I did something really similar and Ill be heading back to to do the other half - Brazil, the Guyanas, Venezuela. Just wanted to say that I really enjoyed what you wrote and it brought back a lot of memories for me. A couple of things that jumped out:

    - That hostel in the Salar de Uyuni near Laguna Colorado....they were super weird to me too. And I think it had to do with the fact that I wasnt in one of the tour groups there. They were really reluctant to let me stay there, and I had to bum food off of one of the tour groups, because they would only cook group meals for those guys, not something for me. Dicks.

    - Also, I ended up lost in the flats for a day and a half but also ended up at that chemical plant looking for the aduana. Saw the geysers, the hot springs (so nice!) and followed the same path out....I got lucky though, the migracion is also the aduana now.

    They wouldnt let me out of the country with my Bolivian plated bike, so I rode up the side of that mountain and jumped the ditch about half a km up - but thats another story!

    I hope life is treating you well man and that you have some more adventures in the works!

    PeaceMan likes this.
  4. Ulyses

    Ulyses Long timer

    Mar 30, 2012
    Portland, OR
    Thanks for reading Ben! It's always nice to hear from somone with similar experiences!
  5. davexr650l

    davexr650l Adventurer

    Jul 29, 2015
    New Jersey
    I know i am 3years laye but it is an awesome bike for us heavier guys! I am 6' 320lbs! Just put the right springs in it and you'll be happy 20150806_173434.jpg
  6. davexr650l

    davexr650l Adventurer

    Jul 29, 2015
    New Jersey
  7. ONandOFF

    ONandOFF more off than on

    Aug 8, 2009
    The Shenandoah valley of Virginia
    Now that was rather serendipitous considering the tragedy!

    GENTLEMANJACKKNIFE Come back with a warrant.

    Jun 6, 2008
    That was a great RR Ulyses, thanks for all the time and effort spent creating it. My boy just became a Navy Corpsman and has many stories already about "his Marines". You guys are a colorful bunch. I too have a XRL but took my Harley up to Alaska from Chicago since it was a lot of highway miles, but I was sure questioning my choice on the road to Deadhorse. After reading your report, I'll denefitely be on the XR when I follow your tracks down there. Welcome home and thanks for standing the wall.
  9. Ulyses

    Ulyses Long timer

    Mar 30, 2012
    Portland, OR
    Awesome! Thanks for reading!
  10. Old Smokey

    Old Smokey Long timer

    Dec 9, 2014
    Just finished reading the report right from page 1, what an AWESOME RR!!! Has me dreaming up all kinds of plans... Thanks for sharing!
    Ulyses likes this.
  11. Ulyses

    Ulyses Long timer

    Mar 30, 2012
    Portland, OR
    Thanks for reading!
  12. Foot dragger

    Foot dragger singletracker

    Dec 27, 2006
    chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
    Yah,If it were me,and it isnt. I would source some soft luggage even if its funky. My Pelican boxes were 12lbs each and proved to be too much for the racks on my DR650,off road bouncing wise anyways. Loving the report though!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  13. Ulyses

    Ulyses Long timer

    Mar 30, 2012
    Portland, OR
    As far as the soft luggage, after that south america trip, I learned my lesson:[​IMG]
    gregMo, Mossy-Back, advFord and 5 others like this.
  14. gregMo

    gregMo Adventurer

    Nov 23, 2011
    Great RR. Happy to find it , better late than never ... my hat off to you sir, you do make a fine traveler & writer. You might be just an inspiration for me and my son to take on a trip like that...Thanks again for sharing, and God Speed
  15. Ulyses

    Ulyses Long timer

    Mar 30, 2012
    Portland, OR
    Thanks for reading! Glad you enjoyed it!
  16. Trickten

    Trickten Adventurer

    Jun 19, 2017
    Here it is in 2019 and this is still one of my absolute favorite read reports. Every time I get into this story, I'm useless for a few days as I stare at my phone/PC. Love it.
  17. Ulyses

    Ulyses Long timer

    Mar 30, 2012
    Portland, OR
    Ha! Glad someone is still enjoying this six years down the road!
  18. Trip Hammer

    Trip Hammer It's not the years, it's the mileage Supporter

    Sep 4, 2013
    Valley of the Sun
    Oh you better believe it! I was just thinking about your report the other day and how it's inspired me and I'm sure others. Now I see it bumped to the top again, so I'm not alone in thinking that.
    Silly as it sounds, every time I'm riding through Oregon, there's a small part of me that hopes to get a sighting of ol' El Senor...:D

    Hope you're doin' well these days!
    alvincullumyork likes this.
  19. alvincullumyork

    alvincullumyork Ol Two Flags Supporter

    Feb 26, 2012
    The dry part of the PNW
    Unfortunately El Senor is no more.... @Ulyses Gave him to me when I didn't have any powered transportation and I proceed to ride the ever loving poop out of it. I toasted the motor, had it rebuilt, and then cracked the frame in so many places it was a total gonner. I gave the motor, which is a beast, back to Ulyses along with a couple other goodies and parted out the rest. I cut the frame down the middle length wise to see what the oil reservoir looks likes.
  20. Trip Hammer

    Trip Hammer It's not the years, it's the mileage Supporter

    Sep 4, 2013
    Valley of the Sun
    Ha, thanks for the update. Can't say I'm surprised, that thing went through the wringer the first time around. It'll be with us inmates in spirit though.:cry RIP El Senor!
    alvincullumyork likes this.