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Discussion in 'Canada' started by TDY, Feb 28, 2012.
Would you be in a supervision mood at some point?
Sure, I could be persuaded...
You'd want to be sure to have spares like a clutch cover gasket and crush washers for the oil line before dismantling anything. I managed to re-use the gaskets on both of mine but you can't count on that.
Crsh washers must be replaced unless they are copper, which is unlikely.
What's your beer/hour rate?
I figured that about the gasket - $14.95 from Procycle - size & # of crush washers? If there was more than just me interested, we could probably bulk order.
Beer/hour is very low.
I'd have to look into the size of the crush washers - but there's also an "O" ring behind the oil filter which pretty much has to be replaced. That's not the place to scrimp, if you know what I mean.
I figured that about the gasket - $14.95 from Procycle - size & # of crush washers? If there was more than just me interested, we could probably bulk order.[/QUOTE]
Hey, def interested in some NSU screws but going to hold off till next winter to tackle (hope I didn't just freakin jinx myself). But if I could pick some up that would be great.
I have bought from procycle in past and prob will again but suggest you price out some parts at the local dealer just for comparison if you're looking at stock parts.
If you put off the NSU job, buy a magnetic oil drain plug anyway. That way if any screws come adrift, and you're lucky, it'll just end up on the magnet. ProCycle sells a good one..
Thanks, magnetic plug already on.
Just holding off as finally have bike up and running as of today.
Need to reinstall skid plate and handguards then off to see how the 606's work.
Also forgot to ask what is the "T-mod"?
The T mod is a junction you add to the carb vent so if you go through deep water the vent won't draw water into the carb. You vent the other side of the T to a high place near the steering head.
Now that I need to do! (as my sig suggests, I am a dumbass.....)
chilibizkit, Jon_l has dropped a pkg with 14 screws in the mail - if you're interested, pm me your snail addy and I will flip you a couple.
chilibizkit, Jon_l has dropped a pkg with 14 screws in the mail - if you're interested, pm me your snail addy and I will flip you a couple.[/QUOTE]
Heading to the EOAR this year, looking at the past posts the T-mod may be a good idea.
Anyone else going ?
thinking of riding north of 7 east of hwy 41 south of 132 area.
I know its a big area but anyone else from Ottawa way getting out this weekend.
Back roads, logging roads and might get misplaced for a bit.
Let me know if you want to hook up somewhere.
Hey everyone, I'm hoping I can get some help with an issue I'm having.
I did a fork swap on my DR650 and installed a nice set off a 2000 RM250 and now the springs are too soft to hold a heavy bike with 19L of fuel and a fat bastard at the helm.
I've been looking for new springs and from what I have found the stock spring rate on the RM forks is .435 Kg/mm as can be seen here.
From looking at the eibach catalog (PDF) I found that the #991 spring is 44.6x455 mm only comes in spring rates up the .45 Kg/mm
What I want to know:
Can I use a #968 spring that is 44x455mm from a '05-'07 Yamaha YZF so I can get a spring rate of .52 Kg/mm ? or am I asking for trouble? Will it fit? It's only .6mm outer diameter smaller...
Does anyone have any other suggestions? comments? Help ?
Sorry Quantis but my knowledge is very limited in that area.
You could try posting in the DR650 forum as someone might have done that fork swap already and tried different springs. Plus it gets alot more action than here.
This is a good bike, but I'm downsizing.
This'll be old news to some, but I thought I'd post it anyway.
After a friend from Newfoundland rode my DR last weekend I started to think about what maintenance I had done on the bike since I've owned it and aside from oil changes and carb work, I realized I'd done virtually nothing on the bike!
When I bought it it had 24,000 kms and now it has 35,467, so the valves were ready for checking. They're called for at 12,000 km intervals, which was nice to see.
As some of you already know the valves on the DR are screw adjusted (insert cheer from Stephanie here).
There's not a whole lot involved with doing the valves but here's what I did:
Removed side covers, seat and tank.
Wash bike to remove years of mud.
Blow dry the engine with compressed air to get water and dust off.
Now the actual valve adjusting begins:
Removed one spark plug, remembering to blow compressed air down in the plug cavity so any dust stays out of the plug hole.
Removed crank nut cover and timing plug.
Rotate engine counter clockwise to compression stroke and line up the T in the hole.
Take off valve covers.
Set valves to indicated values. (See below)
I made up a little tool to rotate the square valve adjuster tips. I had found a suggestion somewhere to use a Robertson screw head to hold the adjuster, and a Inniskillin wine bottle cork seemed just the thing to hold the adjuster with.
Here's the tool in place.
These are the tools you need - a feeler gauge bent to shape so it goes in easily (there's not a lot of room in there)
So all in all, it's an easy job!
This friend's put a lot of miles on a KLR and was shocked at how much better the DR was. He said he's going to go home to "punch the KLR in the teeth".
That's an ingenious tool... it's been a good 10,000 Km or more since I last checked my valves, and I will definitely make one of these when I get around to checking them. Thanks.
is that a #2 Robertson?
Don't get technical.
It's the red driver size.
The cork works really well. As you turn the adjuster you get a real feel for how tight the screw needs to be.