Oz/Kiwi KTM 640 ADV riders sign in here please.

Discussion in 'Australia' started by overlandr, May 10, 2006.

  1. Bluetonguejak

    Bluetonguejak Pretend racer

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,424
    Location:
    Gippsland
    Ha, got caught-out the first time I pulled swing-arm - needles everywhere!
  2. rowie

    rowie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    371
    Location:
    Proserpine, QLD
    Yes, I lost 3. So I took some out of a bearing I replaced and cut them to the correct length. Should be okay.

    I hope :D
    Bluetonguejak likes this.
  3. nzdans

    nzdans Learnertic Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    75
    Location:
    Australian Capital Territory
    While the hose topic is (semi) fresh..

    I used Calibre brand clamps from Super Cheap to fit this kit today, they're smooth internally with rounded edges so don't seem to bite the silicone. The lower two hoses on the pump were a bit too close so I had to Dremel a small portion of one clamp.

    The T - shaped hose was a tighter fit running beneath/alongside the top of the mainframe which I could detect when fitting the tank but hey, it's all good now.

    IMG_4659.JPG
    braaap!, nevgriff64 and bikemoto like this.
  4. bikemoto

    bikemoto Tyre critic

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,198
    Location:
    Nelson, New Zealand
    Thanks for that. I've just replaced the thermostat and coolant, will do hoses next year.

    My OEM hoses have always clashed on the lower water pump connections. I was lucky that I discovered the clamp was cutting the hose against the ridge on the end of the outlet pipe, it failed when I removed the hose. I noticed that last time I had that hose off. Fortunately I could just cut the hose through the split to shorten in by 10 mm and it still fitted. But I could not get that clamp to sit inboard of the ridge like it is supposed to. Will make sure I do so when I do the full replacement.
    GodSilla likes this.
  5. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    12,134
    Location:
    GodSowncountry Australia
    I got some parts, specifically the bolts for mounting the subframe to the main frame.

    The originals fasten by allen-key, these are a star-shaped key, a torx bit think. I checked the part numbers and they match, so it seems KTM are supplying bolts that require the use of a separate and different tool (torx bit) to the original (allen key), requiring an expanded tool kit for owners.

    Is this the new normal? Anyone else had annoying crap like this?
    mcguyver and bikemoto like this.
  6. bikemoto

    bikemoto Tyre critic

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,198
    Location:
    Nelson, New Zealand
    I think so. Not the first time I've heard of this.

    Torx are better, but yes it does mean updating the tool kit. They are rife on the 1190 - but the OEM tool kit has the bits.
  7. nevgriff64

    nevgriff64 .

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    20,296
    Location:
    Melbourne Australia
  8. dnrobertson

    dnrobertson Big Bike, Slow Rider

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,378
    Location:
    Frankston, Australia
    Any KTM bolt I have ordered for the last two years has been supplied with a torx head. 8mm/10mm/13mm.

    Less weight in a torx bolt. Your bike will get lighter the more bolts that fall off. :D

    I have found the part fiche usually shows the original part no. has been superseded by the torx part.
  9. UncleGra

    UncleGra Road Grime

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,498
    Location:
    'neath the Southern Cross
    The subframe to main frame connection bolts on my 625 would work loose in its later years..they are Allen bolts ..some bitumen paint keeps them locked in but still easy to undo.

    Also, my 625 has become very hard, almost impossible to push with engine off, clutch pulled in, but in gear...rolls freely when in neutral with engine off and clutch not pulled in..as it should...clutch problem ?. Master cylindar /slave cylidar. When riding it, the gear changes are smooth as silk up or down..no slip either...:scratch
  10. bikemoto

    bikemoto Tyre critic

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,198
    Location:
    Nelson, New Zealand
    Possibly clutch basket fingers worn, not letting the plates separate easily.
    Ron50 likes this.
  11. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    12,134
    Location:
    GodSowncountry Australia
    A question for the collective.

    While trying to fit the front wheel, the pads keep just falling out of the caliper.:becca(the rear likes to do the same trick...).

    The pads in my original bike just sit in there, the pads on my current ride, Ratty, have a backing plate, just to add more bits to get right, but the biggie seems to be the spring clip in the centre of the caliper at the back of the pads. Mine had worked its way down to the bottom of the caliper and was preventing the pads from being remounted. When I removed it and attempted to refit it in its central location a bit of the spring steel, a tab, just snapped off.:fpalm

    Now the question : Is there some trick to fitting these awkward little spring-clip fuckers, or was I just unlucky (again)?

    (I've actually got a spare caliper with a spare spring clip, it is with ADpete who isn't using it.....:umph)
  12. enookway

    enookway Are we having fun yet?

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    824
    Location:
    Leeton NSW
  13. bikemoto

    bikemoto Tyre critic

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2004
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Nelson, New Zealand
    On the caliper body side of those spring clips are a couple of tabs that should grab the caliper and hold them in place. The should mount fairly firmly. Gently bend them closer together if they are loose.

    Edit: yes I think you were unlucky!
  14. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    12,134
    Location:
    GodSowncountry Australia
    Yep, part number 3 is the culprit, it has tiny tabs that hold it in place, and one of them just broke. I reckon I was just unlucky too.

    On another note, I drove to Melbourne and picked up some parts, many thanks to @tileman and @kveldulv for holding on to them. I was trying to fit a RallyRaid carbon-fibre front guard when I had this issue crop up.

    I've got parts on order from Boltons to repair it, but over $30 for a pair of tiny spring clips is a bit rude.
  15. braaap!

    braaap! Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,070
    Location:
    Here and There
    @GodSilla ... we're talking about 'unobtanium' now... Such parts will not be avalialable from the mothership soon...

    Shoulda called / dropped in here!! I have parts and pieces :) Am seriously thinking about releasing all my 640Adv stockpile to the winds...
    PM me
  16. enookway

    enookway Are we having fun yet?

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    824
    Location:
    Leeton NSW
  17. rowie

    rowie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    371
    Location:
    Proserpine, QLD
    Check the parts list for Jap MX bikes from around 2005 or so. Their parts prices vary greatly.
    Prices for the slide plate and seal

    Kawasaki: $90 for both
    Suzuki: $160 for the plate, $17 for the seal
    Honda: $252 for both
    Yamaha: $137 plate, $39 seal
    KTM: $365 plate :eek7 $30 seal
  18. Aussie Steve

    Aussie Steve Long timer

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    Apr 9, 2007
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    1,488
    Location:
    Maitland
  19. enookway

    enookway Are we having fun yet?

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    824
    Location:
    Leeton NSW
    Safari tank gravity fed, so no pump.
    I have bought jets off motorcyclespareswarehouse before so have emailed them as well.
  20. rowie

    rowie Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    371
    Location:
    Proserpine, QLD
    Guys, New OEM cush hub. How tight should the sprocket carrier be in new cush rubbers? I've been smiting it with a rubber mallet and it is very tight, and doesn't want to sit in far enough for the bearings to touch. Makes me wonder if it will actually do any cushioning :-) On my DR they are firm, but the carrier can be pushed in by hand

    Is this the correct fitment?

    [​IMG]