Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    221
    Location:
    Salisbury Heights
    Thanks DS
    I have already fitted an airscoop to the oil cooler which would also act as a bit of a heat sink too! Interesting point about the hit of hot air when you move off. I haven't ridden with the Safari on yet, only the Acerbis 20litre.
    When you change your oil after a hot one is it burnt looking (dark)? Do you run full synthetic or semi oil?
    I am running Penrite 4L MC-4 10W40 100% Pao Ester 4 Stroke Oil, seems ok.
  2. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    11,202
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Measured where? Curious minds...
  3. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Oddometer:
    117
    Location:
    Coromadel Valley
    No worries; the oil was a short run of Kessner supplied oil Castrol 15w50 mineral 4T started to shift tight. Oil black and had a slightly metal sheen in the pan. Have been using Lubealloy E whatever it is... Really good gear.
    Your Penrite should be good, I was using their 10w40 full syn version before Lubealloy, it tested & ran well in the bike equally I would say, but lubealloy reneged on supplying back to back oil test data, from samples I supplied......so losing/lost the lubealloy love a bit because I cannot see the data.... Could be a priming point for a conspiracy theory, for those with over active imaginations....:lol3
    BergDonk likes this.
  4. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    221
    Location:
    Salisbury Heights
    Yeah DS I used to run Motul 5100 semi synthetic in the DR, you really knew when it was time to change it, sticky and missed shifts, dirty black, and always between 3 & 4000 km. Since running with the Penrite it has been shifting better, longer. I have done at least 4 Oil and filter changes since changing over, had the clutch apart the other week and plates were perfect, and in spec.I dont do too much commuting on her though.
    DIRT SQUIRTER and kezzajohnson like this.
  5. dirtsurfer

    dirtsurfer Adventourer

    Joined:
    May 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,908
    Location:
    In the garage
    When I fitted my emulators to my forks I noticed a horse hair thin band (seal) which sat loosely in the slightly tapered, oil lock piece (bottoming cone) ; number 5 in this fiche . https://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/506b5ed3f8700235b87686e0/front-damper

    One of these was broken (just the hair thin band not the whole part) . Now it leaks a little. This part is not identified on the fiche but I'm sure it exists. It is not like other seals I have seen, could be made of nylon about 1mm thick
    I'm ready to disassemble and fix , should I try and hunt down a genuine part or just try silicone?
  6. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    6,058
    Location:
    Body's back home, but soul is in Central America
    Vapor thermocouple on one of the plugs.
    leighwgold likes this.
  7. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    11,202
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    So not oil temperature, but head temp?
  8. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    6,058
    Location:
    Body's back home, but soul is in Central America
    Yeah - is it worth opening up the thermocouple and sticking it onto the oil feed banjo? Or I wonder if a larger diameter thermocouple is available from Trailtech?
  9. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    6,058
    Location:
    Body's back home, but soul is in Central America
    Any DR650 electrical wizards out there? The wiring for the lighting circuit seems to have three orange wires suddenly becoming one... I expect it's got something to do with older harnesses that used to have an Off position in the light switch...
    It's a rat's nest in Mrs P's bike - there's been some dodgy roadside repairs done in the past... and adding heated grips and decent lights just compounds the felony!
    Willing to pay in money or beer for some skilled hands-on tutoring - I'm trying to keep it sanitary and safe... Any takers?
  10. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    221
    Location:
    Salisbury Heights
    Précis I wouldn’t be putting that shitty copper ring anywhere near my oil system, I just have mine under a bolt on the head, it’s only a temp indication after all, and I have set the warning points a bit lower on the Vapour to compensate. Bergdonk takes his oil temp from a plugged oil passage underneath the motor I believe. I might be wrong, I was once before. :-)
    BergDonk likes this.
  11. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,764
    Location:
    Cairns - Queensland Australia

    Only a bee's dick with a round file. It's not far off correct size already and use it to replace the copper washer that was there - it seals fine.

    [​IMG]

    There's a lot of debate out there about which is better, cylinder head temp off the spark plug, or oil temp from elsewhere. I am happy with my setup and end of day, it gives me benchmark figures to monitor and I would soon notice if something is out of the ordinary.
    BergDonk, Precis and leighwgold like this.
  12. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    11,202
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Based on advice from Nova and evidence of tooth pitting on a few gears, oil temperature and its viscosity stability is the critical thing for DRs. Oils have a viscosity index, like 20W-50 and the big number is at 100C. I measure oil temps at the test port in the front of the crankcase which is pretty close to ambient sump oil temp and likely to be what the gears are exposed to. I can easily measure oil temps up to 130C on a hot day up a hill. Nova reckons to then add 30-40C to that at the tooth interface due to the pressure which is partly a function of the DR's small gears.

    Getting viscosity info for oils at 150C is not easy, and its possible for notionally thicker oils to actually thin and be less thick than thinner oils, ie the viscosity curves can cross over at high temps.

    The Lubealloy oil I now use in my DR only drops <> 3% of its viscosity when the temp rises from 100C to 150C which means I'm confident that gear tooth pitting is under control. It seems to lube everything else OK too.

    By measuring the oil temp at the sump I don't have to interpolate.
    Ron50, kezzajohnson and leighwgold like this.
  13. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    221
    Location:
    Salisbury Heights
    Kezza when I took the pickup from under the spark plug the copper had deformed and I could see that there had been some blowby, hence my comment. Thats why I shifted it. I like big wide flat annealed copper washers on my oil banjo fittings. Or O rings.
  14. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,764
    Location:
    Cairns - Queensland Australia
    Fair call. Mine has never been under the spark plug. Went straight to the oil banjo as above after a quick filing from new about 9 years ago - has been replaced once a couple of years ago after the wire snapped from incorrect routing and turning full lock left (there is just enough lead if routed carefully) no issues - luck of the draw I guess.
    leighwgold and Precis like this.
  15. Ron50

    Ron50 Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,779
    Location:
    Canberra
    The aussie XR600/650 thread has figures that might be of interest in relation to temperatures at different parts of the engine.

    Of course, the Honda has to make do with the frame as an oil cooler, unlike the Suzuki.

    https://advrider.com/f/threads/xr600-xr650l-aussie-owners.891542/page-123

    A few pages earlier you can see the trouble greyrider1 has gone to in measuring oil pressure at different parts of the engine.
    BergDonk likes this.
  16. Halifax614

    Halifax614 Misadventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2015
    Oddometer:
    113
    Location:
    Cairns, Australia
    Precis, I've done a fair bit of work on my 2013 DR650's electrical system to simplify & (hopefully) improve it. Like many machines nowadays it uses the minimum necessary wiring.
    Perhaps I can help, long distance??
    Are the 3 orange wires you mention contained in the sub-harness that runs up into the r/h switch block (Switched +ve from Ign. switch to front brake sw. & light circuits) from the black plug behind the headlight? If so, you can do the same connection down in the main harness, but this means opening it up completely by removing all the tape wrapping & doesn't really accomplish much electrically except removing some surplus wiring.
    I did do this when replacing the standard (IMHO) poorly designed & under-wired headlight wiring circuit with a decent one that didn't drop 2 volts from battery (14.3v) to headlight (12.3v) as it does ex: factory (& waste 3 metres of wire & two incorrectly placed fuses in the process). I'd bet that most DR's have this voltage drop issue which of course contributes to the common complaint of 'poor headlight'.
    Just adding an extra earth wire direct from the battery -ve to the headlight earth terminal gave an instant 0.8v improvement when tried as a temporary jumper wire initially. Bear in mind that the whole electrical system (apart from the starter motor) relies on that tiny quick-disconnect single earth wire adjacent to the left frame rail as the return circuit. I guess you have a wiring diagram?
    After modification, mine improved overall to 13.9v at the headlight with heavier gauge +ve & -ve wiring, a single fuse near the battery & a relay installed. According to some data that I found in a Hella manual, the light output in lumens theoretically increased by more than 40%.
    I don't ride at night, but anything that makes your presence more blindingly obvious to the tin-tops must be a good thing.
    Also, I have doubled-up the + & - wiring from the regulator/rectifier to battery + & - earth, again to reduce voltage drop, plus added a totally separate fused +ve & -ve wiring circuit for accessories at the handlebar.

    The Japan - based 'Eastern Beaver' vendor sells custom made wiring kits that accomplish most if not all of the above if you are not an 'electrical' person.
    I hope that helps a bit? PM me if you wish.
    Precis and kezzajohnson like this.
  17. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    11,202
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    or bring it up here and I'll sort it, its too hard over the internet.
    Precis likes this.
  18. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    6,058
    Location:
    Body's back home, but soul is in Central America
    Don't tempt me - especially as I've just bought some bikes in Qld....
  19. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    6,058
    Location:
    Body's back home, but soul is in Central America
    Gr8 - thnx! I know EB's stuff - exxy, but good; I've already stuck LEDs on all three bikes, and 6" bar lights and multi-LED spotties - my next step was to try installing relays to get more Vs, but more earth sounds a good plan too. I will dive back in and may well PM you!

    Now, a general Q: my previous ADV bike was a Caponord, which had a reputation for shitty electrics - mostly down to the rec-reg and it's connections failing. The trick was to replace the shunt-type rec-reg with a Mosfet unit from a Honda CBR600, which run cooler, if nothing else. In your opinion, is this a desirable/sensible mod or upgrade to make on the DRs? Or is a stronger stator a better investment? I don't yet have a shortage of volts, but with the Oxfords and extra lights, plus a USB charger in the top-box, I expect I'm getting close to the line.
    Farmer Roy likes this.
  20. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    11,202
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    I now run both a MOSFET RR and a Ricks stator FWIW.
    Precis likes this.