Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    Nice - good to see they back them up. Might have to have a whine about mine except I don't have a photo of it in that condition.

    edit...just looked up my receipt and have had it over a year now so out of warranty. Ah, well-suck it up.
  2. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Not unexpected, I have heard good things about TT's backup in such situations in the past.
    leighwgold and Precis like this.
  3. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

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    Farkles.... just got round to tallying up about $3,000 to date. Maybe a screen, Barrett rack and luggage kit of some sort should see me done; Oh fark! maybe the Nova box and big bore kit too???:gdog Meh... :D
    Needless to say it is coming together nicely. Best $ spent so far was on the FFRC suspension, transformed it. (ok, the replacement seat = 1st):hmmmmm
  4. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

    Joined:
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    Results of a bit of shed time on the week end.
    1) Tuck in gauge and switch holder fabricated; fitted grip heater Heat demon switch, & light bar isolate/off switch (it still dips on/off STD switch)
    2) Trail tech fan fitted after re-doing plugs to fit the gauge in the dash: I was a bit disappointed that the kit did not come with enough goodies to get the control unit remote mounted (probably sold as kit to add to the kit???FFS).. had to buy plugs and change them with extra wire. :dirtdog It was a squeeze and trimmed a bit off the fan housing to allow for the movement of the radiator on mounts during "naps" on the trails.. :augie
    3) Brackets fabricated for Aurora 50W Light bar, fitted and wired up via relay. Yet to try on road but over powers the JNS LED head light output (a lot)
    4) SAE lead to main fused block, for Mini moto air pump/battery maintenance
    Will be interesting to see what the temps on the gauge get to.

    The grip heaters will get put off from fitting for a while. Do you need 2 throttle tube side grips to fit these? Looks like you might stuff them trying to get the STD LH grip over them ?? suggestions? experiences gents??

    IMG_1035[1].JPG IMG_1036[1].JPG IMG_1037[1].JPG IMG_1038[1].JPG
    leighwgold and Suncoaster like this.
  5. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Not normally, but can be grip dependent to an extent. Softer grips will grow enough. I use brake cleaner as a lube/part solvent, then 5 double wraps of stainless tie wire.

    I'm keen to hear how the fan works out, I still might swap my thermostat for a fan.
    DIRT SQUIRTER likes this.
  6. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    A fan question? Just putting a Safari 30l tank on and can see the oil cooler airflow is a bit restricted, has anyone noticed if the oil temps have increased in slow hard going? Might it be beneficial to fit one? DR is standard bore with Staintune, airbox and BST40 mods.
  7. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

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    Nice to know; thanks. I'll have a fool around and get some fan on/off temps as well as air scoop off for giggles on a slow weekend. I'll collate and post for all.

    Probably (based on my faulty logic:loco) would have to get hotter. My 20L restricts air movement compared to the stock tank; I put the air scoop on the side of the oil cooler to help out the air flow. I get a hit of hot air as I start moving since fitting. (PM me & I'll post you one to try).

    The fan when it kicks in moves a lot of air! I was impressed. I think it was necessary for me, to fit one, as I commute in city traffic and the oil change after a hot week (40C+) suggested I may have "overheated" the oil, based on the metal "dust" in it not usually seen. :hmmmmm
    Cheers DS
  8. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

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    Highest oil temp I've seen is 186 degC.
  9. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    Thanks DS
    I have already fitted an airscoop to the oil cooler which would also act as a bit of a heat sink too! Interesting point about the hit of hot air when you move off. I haven't ridden with the Safari on yet, only the Acerbis 20litre.
    When you change your oil after a hot one is it burnt looking (dark)? Do you run full synthetic or semi oil?
    I am running Penrite 4L MC-4 10W40 100% Pao Ester 4 Stroke Oil, seems ok.
  10. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Measured where? Curious minds...
  11. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

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    No worries; the oil was a short run of Kessner supplied oil Castrol 15w50 mineral 4T started to shift tight. Oil black and had a slightly metal sheen in the pan. Have been using Lubealloy E whatever it is... Really good gear.
    Your Penrite should be good, I was using their 10w40 full syn version before Lubealloy, it tested & ran well in the bike equally I would say, but lubealloy reneged on supplying back to back oil test data, from samples I supplied......so losing/lost the lubealloy love a bit because I cannot see the data.... Could be a priming point for a conspiracy theory, for those with over active imaginations....:lol3
    BergDonk likes this.
  12. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    Yeah DS I used to run Motul 5100 semi synthetic in the DR, you really knew when it was time to change it, sticky and missed shifts, dirty black, and always between 3 & 4000 km. Since running with the Penrite it has been shifting better, longer. I have done at least 4 Oil and filter changes since changing over, had the clutch apart the other week and plates were perfect, and in spec.I dont do too much commuting on her though.
    DIRT SQUIRTER and kezzajohnson like this.
  13. dirtsurfer

    dirtsurfer Adventourer

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    When I fitted my emulators to my forks I noticed a horse hair thin band (seal) which sat loosely in the slightly tapered, oil lock piece (bottoming cone) ; number 5 in this fiche . https://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/506b5ed3f8700235b87686e0/front-damper

    One of these was broken (just the hair thin band not the whole part) . Now it leaks a little. This part is not identified on the fiche but I'm sure it exists. It is not like other seals I have seen, could be made of nylon about 1mm thick
    I'm ready to disassemble and fix , should I try and hunt down a genuine part or just try silicone?
  14. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

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    Vapor thermocouple on one of the plugs.
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  15. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    So not oil temperature, but head temp?
  16. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

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    Yeah - is it worth opening up the thermocouple and sticking it onto the oil feed banjo? Or I wonder if a larger diameter thermocouple is available from Trailtech?
  17. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

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    Any DR650 electrical wizards out there? The wiring for the lighting circuit seems to have three orange wires suddenly becoming one... I expect it's got something to do with older harnesses that used to have an Off position in the light switch...
    It's a rat's nest in Mrs P's bike - there's been some dodgy roadside repairs done in the past... and adding heated grips and decent lights just compounds the felony!
    Willing to pay in money or beer for some skilled hands-on tutoring - I'm trying to keep it sanitary and safe... Any takers?
  18. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    Précis I wouldn’t be putting that shitty copper ring anywhere near my oil system, I just have mine under a bolt on the head, it’s only a temp indication after all, and I have set the warning points a bit lower on the Vapour to compensate. Bergdonk takes his oil temp from a plugged oil passage underneath the motor I believe. I might be wrong, I was once before. :-)
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  19. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    Only a bee's dick with a round file. It's not far off correct size already and use it to replace the copper washer that was there - it seals fine.

    [​IMG]

    There's a lot of debate out there about which is better, cylinder head temp off the spark plug, or oil temp from elsewhere. I am happy with my setup and end of day, it gives me benchmark figures to monitor and I would soon notice if something is out of the ordinary.
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  20. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Based on advice from Nova and evidence of tooth pitting on a few gears, oil temperature and its viscosity stability is the critical thing for DRs. Oils have a viscosity index, like 20W-50 and the big number is at 100C. I measure oil temps at the test port in the front of the crankcase which is pretty close to ambient sump oil temp and likely to be what the gears are exposed to. I can easily measure oil temps up to 130C on a hot day up a hill. Nova reckons to then add 30-40C to that at the tooth interface due to the pressure which is partly a function of the DR's small gears.

    Getting viscosity info for oils at 150C is not easy, and its possible for notionally thicker oils to actually thin and be less thick than thinner oils, ie the viscosity curves can cross over at high temps.

    The Lubealloy oil I now use in my DR only drops <> 3% of its viscosity when the temp rises from 100C to 150C which means I'm confident that gear tooth pitting is under control. It seems to lube everything else OK too.

    By measuring the oil temp at the sump I don't have to interpolate.
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