Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Interesting. Pre-emptively, because you can, or because your usual methodical & scientific approach indicated you should? what were the tangible benefits, if any - or was it solely for peace of mind?

The MOSFET RR is a bit more efficient and handles the extra output from the stator, the stocker is marginal at best without the upgraded stator.

The upgraded stator means I can run everything at night without issue, so peace of mind as much as anything else. I run a volt meter full time to keep an eye on it all. I also have smaller than stock capacity lithium batteries, so need to keep them full.

Can you recall which Mosfet RR you used?
On several bikes - and now including the DRs - I have used Eclipse LED voltmeters - utterly brilliant bit of kit:

cheapest ones on ebay on the day from China

Precis:- All of what BD says is the way to go.
A full time voltmeter on the bike is a 'must have' IMO as then you can see exactly what is going on with the elec. system, especially if you are running high current options such as grip heaters & so on. It might be useful for you to check the difference in the workshop (with a good DMM) between battery volts & that at any added high current options fitted, with the bike running of course.
For your interest, both my Yamaha XT250 & a previous Hinckley Triumph T100 showed approx. 2 volt loss of electrons from battery forward to headlight. Both were fixed in the manner described earlier. The Trumpy had another issue with a 1v drop to & from the R/R which is mounted up at the front forks for cooling; doubling-up the + & - R/R wiring on that one worked wonders on the battery charging voltage too. Rarely above 13v prior; above 14v subsequently.

First fail to proceed on the DR in 11years,pretty good!Sorted now!

Did your dad manage to fix it? What was the problem?

Just needed a bit of Jerry rigging of the fuel supply

Should keep the magpies off it too Dave

fuck woody I nealry choked

So self induced?

Good to see you're still riding and not tied down doing reno's Dave.

Had a great week with the scrappers!

Rear shock removal & replacement: piece of cake, or PITA? Roughly how long should it take, what needs to come off? Airbox? Battery? Headlamp? (No, hang on - that's BMW, isn't it...?)

3 options:

1. remove airbox and then remove the shock that way via the LHS
2. remove exhaust and remove the shock up and via the RHS
3. remove the rear wheel and drop the shock out underneath

I've mostly done it via #2, but #3 of late, much the same time wise, but now no choice with my frame upgrades to use #3. I reckon removing the airbox first is more work than necessary, but others prefer to do it this way.

I use #3 but I have removed side covers, seat and tank too, usually to do other stuff as well.

#3 for me as well! With all the mods to mine only option time wise!

#3 also makes it easy to then remove the swingarm to lube the pivot bearing too.

always #3 for me. piece of cake.

Here's why I asked (since no-one asked...)
Yes, I know I need to vacuum the carpet. Someday....