Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

    Joined:
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    Body's back home, but soul is in Central America
    So after the discussion about whether a Vapor temperature reader is best achieved with a thermocouple under a spark-plug or on the oil line, there's this: https://www.warp9racing.com/product/oil-sensor/
    But I'm guessing that the sensor wire (which is the same price as this fitting!) merely replaces the existing sensor lead... in which case, what's the point? If it was an additional warning of impending doom maybe, but $100 replacement of what I've already got? Nah.
    What says the brains trust?
  2. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
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    Cairns - Queensland Australia

    Makes it look easy but you would also have to buy a sensor wire to go with it. My position of the sensor ring on the upper oil banjo, although not 100% true oil temp, is pretty close and is better indication of temp after the oil has done a bit of work rather than just after it has been cooled by the radiator as is the case of the Warp9. I am more likely to notice a sharp spike in head temp for example.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  3. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

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    Body's back home, but soul is in Central America
    Yeah, I mentioned that the sensor is the same price as the fitting; it seems all this will tell you is if your cooler is working!
  4. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    I still reckon its sump oil temp that is the critical temp. I spoke to Kevin about this when I visited Warp9 last year and he was keen to show me the prototype. He sort of agreed, and I explained to him how easy it is to tap into the oil line just after the pump. He then said it was about to go production, so it is what it is.
    Precis and kezzajohnson like this.
  5. duckslider

    duckslider unintentionaldrifter

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    Oct 29, 2009
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    down from The Mount...Australia.
    old ad for The Mighty DR. :-)
  6. BygDaddee

    BygDaddee Where do I get a pie

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    Brisbane Northside, OZ
    nice
  7. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Body's back home, but soul is in Central America
    Some farkling happening...
    Cogent Dynamics Mojave shocks on all the DRs: sublime!
    20200131_105954.jpg Notice the rear brake switch? Gone, replaced with a hydraulic one!
    Ralle Moto steering damper required a big cut to my AE motosport dash-panel
    20200131_105907.jpg
    Oxford heated grips and MSC Moto fork preloaders too!
    And a nice Aussie-made Hardy cooler protector - lots of bent fins with the stock wire guard.
    20200131_110041.jpg
    Fuzzball, Weldr, BergDonk and 2 others like this.
  8. NTJosh

    NTJosh Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2015
    Oddometer:
    257
    Location:
    Western Australia

    Looking good fella, I’ve got the same shock...love it. Have also installed the same brake light switch..they should come with them installed from the factory:-)
    Weldr and Precis like this.
  9. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    So I have never been a fan of the Massive Safari tank but one came up locally at a price I couldn't refuse so I jumped on it. All fixtures and fittings apart from the rear mounting rubbers. I believe you use one half of the stock tank rubbers which I don't have - I sold my stock tank along with the rubbers go with it. The rubbers from my Acerbis tank are too large in diameter to fit in the holes of the Safari tank and the rubbers from my old IMS tank, although far from ideal worked well enough for a trial fitment. Everything fits - took a bit of shoehorning the tank forward enough to get the rear mount bolts in but not too bad - Sargent seat fits in nicely and I think the tank looks great ! My Blue 2006 model is now mostly white except for the rear guard.

    • So, anyone have a set of stock tank rubbers laying around that I can buy, borrow or steal
    • If not, what have others done that has worked as an alternative ?
    • How much can I trust the aluminium cross brace?
    • Does anyone have a white (good condition) rear guard they want to get rid of ?

    [​IMG]
    Precis and fayeslane like this.
  10. fayeslane

    fayeslane Rankest of amateurs

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    Albury, NSW
    Tyre lever is the go for this
  11. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    Oct 18, 2008
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    Kezza I got an old secondhand Safari, needed taps and new brace. Safari got them to me in less than a week, the new brace is much better, made of stainless. It’s laser cut, and I took a file to it to remove the sharp edges, and not too exy either.
    kezzajohnson and dmsantam like this.
  12. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    That's exactly what I used.:pynd

    Actually, maybe mine is Stainless - not sure. Taps etc are all good and safari don't supply the rear rubbers with new tanks assuming cause you use the OEM ones. I'll drop them a line anyhow and enquire - I am in no rush.

    How spooky is the internet - as I was typing this the following Gumtree ad came up on the page (I am not ad free) - the very tank I bought !

    [​IMG]
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  13. dzl

    dzl adventurer wannabe

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    Apr 21, 2009
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    225
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    Adelaide, South Australia
    You dont have a suzuki dealer in cairns? New tank rubbers $7 each. Rear fender $100
  14. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    Good suggestion, that didn't even cross my mind - yes, Wayne Leonards are our Suzi dealer. I s'pose I could see if they are available. Not payin $100 for a rear fender but. May just paint mine with the same paint I used on the sidecovers - Krylon fusion plastic paint - magic stuff.
    Weldr and leighwgold like this.
  15. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Get rid of the foam under the front of the tank, it collapses and then the weight of the tank sits on the cylinder fin via the cross brace which then breaks.

    Get another frame rubber, stock or similar from a wrecker and mount it to the frame and it won't collapse and stress the fin.
  16. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2015
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Coromadel Valley
    Spent Sat going through the DR, a good day for it, it was wet. Hopefully the fire grounds over the country got a good drop, 43mm here.

    Anyway..Put an LED back light on the fuel "gauge" the other day along with some other bling bits. el'cheapo phone holder is ok. Also put a relay on the thermo fan, the wires out of the control unit just looked too small to me :loco (fan runs faster now). The grip heater switch I went and found a water proof rubber top for it to stop the rain from going straight into it, FFS they should be supplied with the switch IMO....:fpalm
    Also threw in some twin tipped plugs @ 14k runs a bit cleaner now. Lubed up the levers and clutch cable ends, rear brake & foot peg pivots etc. Another 1k and it will get an oil change @ filter. Good for another 5k.:jkam

    FWIW I'm getting a pretty consistent 20km per L, with Gordons carb mod and mid pipe/exhaust. A mate of mine is going to go down the same route with his, he loves the smooth tractable power with no surging in higher gears at low revs.

    Attached Files:

    Precis likes this.
  17. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    Thanks. I remember you saying something about that at some earlier stage. The tanks done a fair bit of work and that rubber under the tank is in remarkebly good shape but I will heed your advice - good tip. While I have you, my FCR has the non swivelling fuel inlet - I've managed to turn mine a little but it started to crimp up so I stopped. Have you (or anyone) found any issues with having the lines looping up a bit ?
  18. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Once the fuel level drops to around the height of the loop, or lower, the flow stops. I ended up cutting off the bent pipe off my BST and tapping a thread and fitting a straight barbed brass thingy, 1/8" BSP IIRC and readily available from most auto places. I used Loctite Master Gasket to seal the threads and it was fine until I went FCR. Its in my blog in the early pages.
    kezzajohnson and leighwgold like this.
  19. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    I wish, fire jumped our lines again yesterday.......

    Back out again in a few minutes.
    Nogoodnamesleft likes this.
  20. 0405canvet

    0405canvet Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
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    Hi Gordon
    Long time no chat! Don't know if you remember me, but I live in Nth QLD and did the BST magic mods in 2012. Then rode around south America in 2013.

    Anyway, I still have my DR650 and it is going fine. Up to 62,000 kms now (last 10,000 in Australia) and it has run really well with your mods. Thanks so much for your help years ago.

    I did the following mods;

    Header weld grind
    your midpipe and a 35 muffler
    snorkel out
    additional hole 43mm diameter
    modified needle - can't remember the position at the moment, but I needed to move it up for high ethanol fuel and back down for normal fuel
    drilled slide
    cut spring
    D shape the spacer
    standard pilot 42.5
    std main 140
    breather filter foam

    So it goes fine and consistently gets 4.9L/100kms, but I wouldn't mind a bit more power if it is easily available as i use the bike to commute when it isn't so hot, and hence do some highway kilometers and overtake a bit. I have been reading the newer BST magic threads on DR rider (and the youtube vids) and it seems the mods might have evolved since 2012. It sounds like your mods have helped a lot of people all over the world get the DR running properly.

    So my main questions is....Would you suggest any changes to the above list based on what you do now?
    - I gather the 150 main is the usual now (I have 145 and 150 spares).
    - If I put the 150 on would I expect to move the needle clip position (and what is the usual position)?
    - would i need to re adjust the mixture?
    - Is the airbox hole (43mm) still fine or go up to 51mm?

    I'm a bit rusty on the BST as it has run well for so long i haven't touched it for years.Any info would be much appreciated

    Thanks a lot!
    Max

    Suggested Max just try some other jetting. More for his own knowledge really.