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Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.
Then why were you in the naughty corner?
I have RMZ forks on my bike and routed the braided line rallye/baja style after striping off some of the rigid black outer sheath bar the lower section that is clamped, (DR650 galfer brake line) to give it more flex. Plus an extra bracket mounted to the lower fork guard to fix the lower portion of the brake line and keep it away from the wheel and disc on compression of the forks. Took a bit of effort but it doesn't rub anywhere and doesn't buldge out any wider that the widest portion of the bike - hanging up on trees and bushes has never been an issue in the tight stuff because of lower speed and less compression of the forks. Higher speeds for me are generally more open spaces. I am really happy with the setup, it's been no issue at all and unclutters the dash area having no brake line bouncing up and down over the speedo/dash etc. Guards are now black (and most of the bike's colour scheme is different).The lower clamp also carrys the vapor speed sensor line.
It's because of the company I keep.
Thats a good lookin dash there Kezza
New braided line from Enzed -$95. Ready in 1 hour. Used a Norma clamp to hold the line tight. Something I'll be keeping an eye on.
I wrapped a few runs of stainless tie wire around my braided line. It bites into the line's sheath, and gives grip to the clamp. Mine was good for some years prior, then came moved a bit and failed into some downhill corners down the coast. Rode home with just a back brake that day.
You could also put a cable tie above the clamp to stop it slipping down. That’s what I’ve done.
The clamp is a poofteenth undersize so when done up the rubber compresses and holds it tight. Over time it'll lose a bit of grip I 'spose. Because I'm swapping between road and dirt wheels a bit I'll be checking it regularly.
Safari tank fit up almost complete except I only have one (left) side fuel tap hooked up. It's looped up due to my FCR carby which has the fixed inlet that I have twisted as far west as I can without cripming it. I am going to fit out another FCR carby I have at home here which has the moveable inlet on it, so I can have the line pretty straight below the tank and into the inlet, to make the most of the fuel range available. I need to buy some more fuel line and a t-piece to hook up the other (right) side fuel tap. I guess I could just measure what's there but can anyone give me the best size (ID and/or OD) fuel line to order ? I think it should be 8mm ID but...
Also what is a good source to get a 'T' connector and appropriate sizing if known ? Cheers
Below : Extra OEM tank cushion as recommended by BergDonk.
Hole drilled in seat/frame lug that fits my 't' handle from bike tool kit to lever the tank forward during fitting
OEM tank lower mount rubbers and inserts fitted.
Some have mentioned not much space between the seat and rear B&B rack but not so with the Sargent - plenty.
Upper triple hits the tank on full lock (just) so will see how it goes and decide whether I need to do something with the steering stop tab on the frame - otherwise all's good.
Keep an eye on the front rubber, they tend to move back. Best to add a couple of more zip ties to make sure it doesn't.
I use 8 mm 5/16 fuel line, Ts can be brass or plastic. Should be available from your local auto parts place, or ebay for sure.
Ok, cheers Steve.
Yep i used 5/16 as Bergy mentioned, looking good with the Safari mate
I've always used 6mm fuel line. i prefer brass Tee, but plastic will work.
Brass T's from gas or welding suppliers, or at a push, Autobarn. Hate the plastic ones - if they're not intended for fuel, they get brittle and snap - often in the pre-race paddock... DAMHIKT!
I was hoping for a one stop shop so have some 5/16 fuel line, a brass 8mm t piece and half a dozen clamps on the way - a company called BMH trading who do classic bike stuff but have quite a range of fuel related stuff including filters.
My DR is fitted with a FMF muffler with the spark arrest re stricter fitted and I find it way to loud has anyone quit-end one of these down with out restricting to much and if so what did you do . I not that the outlet is considerable larger then the standard pipe even with the re stricter in but of cores it is a much smaller volume can .
Made a home made baffle , 33mm in the can - 43mm outlet, modified an ebay type baffle.
I modified something like this, it has to have an angle - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motorcy...206298?hash=item1c61a3c21a:g:TkUAAOSwe7BWw~0g
Another option, probably slot straight in - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Baffle-...446209?hash=item2a9ccf1fc1:g:VyUAAOSwMEtaXMj6
I'm on a mission to get junk off my bars and weight off my forks - particularly since I just scored some Denalis and realised how heavy they are: brutal!
With the pig's-arse-wide Acerbis tank - and not wanting a big fat shadow by mounting the lamps too close or too far behind the forks - I started thinking that a crashbar might be the way to go - that's what the Three-Letter-Acronym set seem to use, anyway.
And yes, there are crashbars made for the DR - though some go a little high and may not play well with the big tanks.
Best bet seem to be bars from T-Rex in the US: I've used their axle-sliders in the past and they were a class bit of kit, so I have no doubt the crashbars will be too.
The price - oy!
Anyone got any cunning and useful alternatives?
Jebtech fairing, gets all the crap off the bars/forks with no weight penalty for improved lighting, aero and steering/stability. No downside, except $s.
Had the same experience with a set of Aurora's - too heavy for handlebar mounting. Swapped them with the Stedis that were mounted on the Slowstrom crashbars. Do you need the crashbar function or just a light mount? A light mount would be a pretty straight forward construction. My first thought when I looked at the pics was that those bars could do you a heaps of damage in a fall (but the bike would be OK ).