Oz / Kiwi Suzuki DR650 Adv Riders Sign in Here please

Discussion in 'Australia' started by davorallyfan, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    DR Big 520 countershaft sprockets for the DR650. Not readily available in Oz, and apart from making my own, I got some from England via eBay.

    I've since found that they are available via http://www.wemoto.com.au here in Oz, got two in the mail yesterday. They sell other stuff too, that seems to be good stuff and fair prices.
    kezzajohnson, Ron50 and Precis like this.
  2. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

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    I want the yellow one!:D
    Precis likes this.
  3. BygDaddee

    BygDaddee Where do I get a pie

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    I wish suzuki had of remembered to put some brakes on this thing, almost ploughed through the first red light after a couple of weeks on the T7, nice day for a cruise on any bike

    098BBBD6-A3F1-452B-BCED-8353B367CB58.jpeg
  4. TheDecepticon

    TheDecepticon Wannabe

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    They have got brakes BygDaddee, they just don't work! :jack
  5. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    Has anyone substituted rear master cyl or caliper for better brakes? I’ve got braided line, slotted disk, organic pads and it’s still the worst rear brake of any bike I’ve ever ridden, that includes a BSA Bantam. I’ve bled them, roughened up disk and pads, tried different pad types including OEM, but nothing works. It’s off, or the wheel is locked when I stand on the lever.
    TheDecepticon likes this.
  6. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    There's always going to be a limit as to what a rear brake can do for you - they are deliberately lesser than the front - have a look at any bike. If a bike does have a disc on the rear, it will always be smaller than the front and up front often has two or one large one. If you are trying to use a rear brake purely to stop or slow down, you are going to be pressing it too hard and it will lock. Look at the rear brake as being more for balance and stability during your braking - the front does the majority of the work which means having the rear brake only trailing in most cases - (taking up the slack in the pedal and just mild pressure on it) The rear brake in effect pulls the rear wheel of the bike back down to the road helping to offset the weight transfer that you get when you setup and apply the front brake (essential to build up front tyre footprint). The best way to look at that is the rear brake is now stopping the back of the bike wanting to overtake the front and thus stabilises the bike while the front brake is doing the stopping duties. The rear brake will act as a supplement to the front in those cases where the front is unable to provide all of the stopping power such as higher speeds, fully loaded etc. Of courses we are talking mostly road use here but the same dynamics apply to off road too - having said that, many of us deliberately lock the rear to help steer the bike into turns off road. Yes, the DR rear brake is pretty weak but I don't mind that because it doesn't need to be that good - The front is a different kettle of fish and personally I would prefer to spend my time effort and $ on improving it.
    gavo, TheDecepticon and BergDonk like this.
  7. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    Kezza appreciate the big reply, I’ve got the front sorted, 320 T7 disk, braided line, works a treat. No issues there, it’s just that the back brake is so abysmal. It’s the complete lack of feel or feedback that p’s me off and the fact that no matter what I’ve done hasn’t improved it one iota. I rarely use it but it would be nice if it was there when I needed it. My brothers KLR’s rear brake is so much better it’s not funny.
    I am not going over to the dark side, just sayin!
    kezzajohnson likes this.
  8. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

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    Mmmm. Makes you wonder what the difference is betweek the KLR and DR rear brake then hey ? Master Cylinder perhaps...
    leighwgold likes this.
  9. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    It may be the KLR M/C but their caliper is twin piston, that could be it. I want to find a mc with a smaller bore and try that next. Might even go back to the OEM disk and pads to see if that’s any difference.
  10. 0405canvet

    0405canvet Long timer Supporter

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    Sounds like your caliper isn’t running straight? Binding before the pads squeeze the disc? Don’t ask me why I think that!
    leighwgold and BergDonk like this.
  11. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    Gordon, the pad guide pins are like new and the pads are free on them, the caliper is free to slide on the posts, which I have lubed with caliper grease and the piston is free to move. And I don’t think that the caliper has ever taken a big hit that I know of, so don’t think that it’s bent. Thanks for the input though, more food for thought :-)
  12. TheDecepticon

    TheDecepticon Wannabe

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    Hello all. I hope you are all getting some riding in.

    A question for those that have upgraded their stator to the higher output.

    Did any of you upgrade the wiring to the reg and back to the starter solenoid which is where the reg feeds into the positive side of the battery? I've had mine upgraded and it has been recommended to replace those wires with larger ones. I'm not going to be running anymore than I am now and the system has handled it well, I wanted to have a few more amps to ensure I could run my spotlight and high beam and still start the bike the next day. Not sure I'm going down the road of heated grips, my hand guard muffs work very well in that aspect.
    leighwgold likes this.
  13. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    No, and no issues to date that I'm aware of.
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  14. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Might be a bit of a tangent, but I've had the bore of the carrier flog out a couple of times. I drill it out and press in a bronze bush.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Bushes are generic from a bearing shop, trimmed to length and drilled for ID IIRC.
    leighwgold likes this.
  15. TheDecepticon

    TheDecepticon Wannabe

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    Thanks, Steve. Good info on the caliper pin bush, too.

    Leigh, what is it about your rear brake? is it simply no feel or the pedal goes down too far. I know the DR has an issue of allowing the piston to come back to far in the m/cyl and if I remember, Warp 9 does a brace to adjust for that giving better pedal feel. Do you want to road test mine to see if there is any difference. I'm quite happy with my rear brake for what it is.
    leighwgold likes this.
  16. leighwgold

    leighwgold Ph.D. of B.S. Supporter

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    Gray it’s not pedal travel, the pressure is on by about 1/2 the travel, it’s just got no bite or feel at all. If I stomp on it the wheel locks on dirt, but it’s all or nothing. If I can remember, yours feels much better.
    Steve the bore on the carrier isn’t worn much, I’ve only got 30000 ish ks on it and not too much mud work, but I’ll have another sticky at it, it sounds like that’s what Gordon was alluding to.
    BergDonk likes this.
  17. TheDecepticon

    TheDecepticon Wannabe

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    I think you'll find that is pads, they may be too hard, or they may need to be warmed up to work, hence why the grab when you stomp, you get a sudden sharp increase in temp(however small). This can be the problem with sintered, or metal, pads.
  18. TheDecepticon

    TheDecepticon Wannabe

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    Mine are actually some organic compound i got from GC's. They seem to be wearing ok and work reasonably well.
    leighwgold likes this.
  19. DIRT SQUIRTER

    DIRT SQUIRTER Bitumen is just a way of getting there!

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    I tend to agree. I find that the stock pads get better with heat in them, up to a point; FWIW.
    leighwgold likes this.
  20. Cuttlefish

    Cuttlefish Riding to disappear.

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    After first ride around yesterday in the hills I know I would like to either cut the clutch lever to make it shorter to allow better clutch control or buy some shorties from eBay.
    The ones I can see say fit from 1994-2010.
    For eg:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/For-SUZ...var=472588327492&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
    My DR is a 2012 though I assume the colours and BNGs have changed but they should fit?
    Or just cut down the clutch lever and sorted!