P r o j e c t "s"

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by TINK, May 3, 2011.

  1. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    15,340
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    My speedo lights still work but I'm tempted to go with the KATDASH unit just for the improved lighting.

    Maybe I could sell the OEM unit for enough money to retire on? :rayof
  2. GSAviator

    GSAviator Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    157
    Location:
    Colorado Springs
    Yep, mine worked too, but the Katdash is so much better. Let me know how the sale goes -- maybe I'll sell mine too.

    Terry had worked on mine before I changed the lights, so it was pretty nice and clean inside (Thanks Terry!)
  3. WRC51

    WRC51 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,369
    Location:
    Santa Rosa, Calif.
    Since we are talking speedos, can you run the bike long term with out the speedo/tach unit.(1976 R90/6) Most places are talking atleast a month and most a longer period of time, if I am not mistaken the Gen. light has to have a completed circuit to charge the batt.?? Not even sure if the blinkers and running lights would work with out eh speedo unit. Thanks
  4. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,442
    Location:
    Longmont, CO
    you need the gen bulb to initiate charging. if it burns out you are screwed. so you just put a resistor in the circuit to back up the buklb. the easy way is to get the pre built kit from rick at motorad elrctrik. nicely built, cheap, has instructions. then you can run without an instrument cluster as long as you like. make sure water doesn't get into mechanical cables and tape up the plug. do not lose the screw.
    WRC51 likes this.
  5. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    15,340
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    I think the lights and turn signals work on a '76 without the dash but I'm not sure.

    True the alternator needs the resistance of the bulb to start charging but sometimes there will be enough residual magnetism in the rotor for it to start on it's own. You can check with a volt meter to see if it starts next time you start the bike but then you have to do that every time you take the bike out. It is most likely to start charging on it's own if it was run recently.

    I suppose you could also start it to charge by inserting a jumper with a fuse or bulb attached into the proper place, tiny holes, in the wiring block that fits into the back of the instrument cluster. Can't tell you off hand which ports that would be because I don'y have a wiring diagram here.
    WRC51 likes this.
  6. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    788
    Location:
    So Cal
    Finally got around to replacing the original 40 year old HELLA flasher relay on my BMW R100S with a modern LED compatible unit from https://katdash.com/

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    My voltage gauge would swing wildly with the HELLA unit and the turn indicator lamp on the dash would stay on all the time regardless of the turn signal switch position.
    Now, with the new flasher, the voltage meter hardly moves when a turn signal is on and the indicator lamp turns on/off as expected.
    BTW; I'm still running the standard bulbs in my turn signals.

    Attached Files:

  7. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    788
    Location:
    So Cal
    Finally did something about the faded instrument lettering using my Brother P-touch printer.
    It's not bad, but I would still like to find someone that can restore the original painted lettering.
    Replacing the face is out of the question at $250.

    speedo lettering 2.jpg
    tac650 and WRC51 like this.
  8. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,890
    Location:
    Shoreline, WA
    I wish I had a p-touch printer, great idea!
  9. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    788
    Location:
    So Cal
    After debating with myself whether to change out the /7 valve covers for the earlier "peanut" style valve covers, I finally threw in the towel.

    Peanut Valve Covers 01_resize.JPG

    Attached Files:

    tac650, BicyclebBob and kaput13 like this.
  10. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,442
    Location:
    Longmont, CO
    if ya gonna run peanuts ya also gotta run the correct long fin exhaust header nuts. jus' sayin'



    psst. the intake clamps are crooked.
  11. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    15,340
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    I like the early finned nuts too but the word is there is no extra cooling because of them so it's just looks. I run the late model covers because I got tired of buying the expensive peanut covers. The late model covers are quieter. You should notice this at first but after awhile you'll get used to it.
  12. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    788
    Location:
    So Cal
    Before and After

    2019-07-02 valve cover before & after.jpg
    tac650 likes this.
  13. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    15,340
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    I was talking about extra cooling from the longer finned exhaust nuts. But I guess valve covers are involved too.
  14. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    788
    Location:
    So Cal
    Poster worthy shot.

    2019-07-04 BMW R100S 2_resize.JPG
  15. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    788
    Location:
    So Cal
    One of the things I've had to deal with are leaky valve covers.
    The covers are flat, the head is not.
    Usually a little Yamabond, ThreeBond, or Hylomar will do the trick.
    But I'm getting tired of cleaning off sealer every time I pull the valve covers.
    So, I tried a set of those silicone gaskets when I put on the peanut covers.
    Voila! No leaks, no sealer.
    I like it.
    tac650 and Solo Lobo like this.
  16. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2004
    Oddometer:
    10,890
    Location:
    Shoreline, WA
    I didn't want to admit it, given some of the folks around here... I'm running silicone valve covers on my RS and they have been working really well to stop the leaks I had before.

    Maybe these new versions are better than the ones from 110-20 years ago that didn't seen to work very well?
    TINK likes this.
  17. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,442
    Location:
    Longmont, CO
    I tried the silicone gaskets years ago. Worked like crap. distorted and leaked. Then I went to cast silicone gaskets. They are cast onto the rocker covers, follow the head exactly, never get replaced and do not weep.
  18. TINK

    TINK Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    788
    Location:
    So Cal
    I'm not familiar with these "cast" silicone gaskets. Where would I buy them?
  19. Plaka

    Plaka Brevis illi vita est

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,442
    Location:
    Longmont, CO
    you
    get then a tube at the FLAPS. not really something you buy but something you make. I used red silicone on my valve covers. I used a combination of red and gray on thee oil pan. If I were ever to redo the valve covers I would use grey.

    First you take a paper punch to one of those silicone gaskets you bought, or some silicone sheet from mcmaster Carr. Punch out little disks. Wash these well, like brake cleaner in a strainer.

    Then you prepare the cover and head. The cover gets cleaned and sand blasted. I used an air eraser running aluminum oxide. The AE is the size of a fat airbrush and blows a very small pattern, A cheap one will do, it just won't last. The same tool is used to make the sought after sport glass for RS and RT fairings. No fingerprints on the blasted surface.

    The head is prepared with a thin coat of silicone grease or other release agent. Partall mold wax and PVA will work well.

    Next dots of the liquid silicone you will be using for the gasket get put on the cover and stick the silicone sheet disks down. These act as spacers to establish the thickness of the cast gasket. Put them near where the pressure will be when the cover is bolted up. Let dry.

    Next a coat of silicone onto the entire prepared surface of the cover. Spread with a pallet knife and put the cover on the head. Run the nuts down hand tight, just enough to squeeze out the wet silicone and have the cover bearing on those disks. let dry/cure overnight or more.

    Pop the cover off. You now have an exact casting of the head. Every possible warp is reproduced exactly in the gasket for perfect contact. trim the gasket up with an exacto knife..

    It's a bit of work but you never buy and replace the gasket again and they do not weep.
  20. ME 109

    ME 109 Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    8,067
    Location:
    Albury Australia
    Why has no one produced a valve cover gasket in between rock hard, and jelly? There must be a more suitable material or method that will prevent weeps. It would be a top seller.

    If the lh head is warped, the tightened front valve cover nut can lever the cover outward at the bottom.
    I'd describe warp on my R100 heads as..... flat on the horizontal centre line of the head, with the upper and lower forward sealing surfaces (ex valve area) pulled in towards the engine case. The rear upper and lower sealing surfaces are in line with the centre, so a flat surface.
    Uke likes this.