Paris / Dakar on 1996/55.000 km Honda 600 Transalp

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Lolo Prod, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. Lolo Prod

    Lolo Prod Adventurer

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    With my friend Amaury, we are just about to leave for an off road trip through Morocco/Mauritania and Senegal on ... old 1996 and 55.000 km Honda 600 Transalp :-)
    We will try to give you some updates here.
    Departure tomorrow, cant wait for it.

    [​IMG]

    PS: I am new at ADVRider but addicted to motorcycle trips. I already did quite a few things always, illustrated by videos on You Tube : North Cape in winter but also in summer, Moscou/Vladivostock on a Multistrada, Mongolia with Royal Enfiel side car, Namibia, India ...
    My nickname is “Lolo”, I am French and I make quite a lot of funny and crazy motorcycle videos on You Tube. Having said this, some of you may not know me, but I’ll give you a clue : a guy crashing with a big touring bike in a boat in an harbour (“get on the boat the sir!!!”) because hitting the panniers of the bike in a mooring bollard !!! OK, now I am pretty sure that most of you know me, I made you laugh a lot, ok, that’s a good start.

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  2. fullgs

    fullgs Adventurer

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    I'm in, rather than twice ;)
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  3. KryzHatch

    KryzHatch Been here awhile Supporter

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    I'm also in, remembering the FJR water cooled in the port of ST MARTIN de RÉ, and many others adventures.
    Welcome onboard "La pince Noire"
    KH
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  4. boristhebold

    boristhebold Been here awhile

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    Yep, remember the video. In
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  5. Jetlag Jon

    Jetlag Jon Adventurer

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    In
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  6. troos

    troos Adventurer

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    Sub’ed
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  7. eustachius

    eustachius Adventurer

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    When will we see and read more?
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  8. fullgs

    fullgs Adventurer

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    you're right, Lolo is a bit lazy :)
    just one pic, but he has hundreds like this!

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  9. horsti

    horsti Adventurer

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    Ouuuuups, loocks like soooooooft stuff:jack

    I am in !
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  10. forgorin

    forgorin Stuck in Japan

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    HEHE. I remember that clip. Looking forward to reading about your trip!
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  11. Frenchyyy

    Frenchyyy Adventurer

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    I liked the one when you crossed Russia on the Multistrada... Pretty epic! I hope I can do the same thing soon.
    #11
  12. Lolo Prod

    Lolo Prod Adventurer

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    Sometimes you have to come out! You want to know what I think, more exactly what I thought, about the Honda 600 Transalp? "Yeah, well, why not". In fact not my cup of tea. Well, to make you better undertsand, I'll make you go behind the scenes. It was in the early 90s and I had just been hired in Moto Journal magazines as a journalist tester. And a tester is supposed to ... test. I mean normally! Because the day I was asked to test and compare a 600 Transalp, a 800 TDM and I do not know what other "peace of s....s" (do not annoy you it's to picture), I wondered what that we would be able to test.



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    Do not blame me, I was young and stupid. My only target was about performance at that time. What I liked, was riding the hypersports bikes on the edge (I thought I was!) ! I was trying to brake as late as possible before entering a blind curve on the road, just to know if it could make it. Stupid ! But with a Honda Transalp, what was I supposed to try ? What could I write about that bike. That there are no brakes, no power over 7.500 rpm, and you can hardly reach 180km/h ? It is true ! I told my editor it would a better solution that another tester (found of poetry, metaphors and lyrycism) ... than by your stupid servant!

    And then, one day, let's say 30 years later, my friend Amaury told me: "I bought two Transalp 600, 1,500 euros each. We could go to Morocco this winter with our wive, it would be cool! ". I don't know why (I am still as stupid as years ago) my opinion about Transalp is completely different today! No horsepower ? Cool, it means, gas consumtption is low, we will have a huge kilometers range during our trip ! No front brakes ? Who cares? In off road, you just need the rear one. The V2 has no real character ? Great, it will be a valuable friend in moments of fatigue or during the technical riding moment, whereas the rage 450 Enduro can quickly make you crash! With my body defending I even started to look at all the model years! And you know what? I love the first version, green, with its square front light. A real invitation to travel. You know what ? The Transalp, they should have seen much bigger at Honda. I do not know, but they should have called it Trans Himalaya or even Trans World!

    More pragmatic and earthly, Amaury looked at these grannies of 55 and 65,000 km:
    - repair of brake calipers
    - change of column bearings and wheels.
    - change clutch disks as a precaution.
    - Fork oil changed
    - front and rear tires (foam bib at the front)
    - 4 mm inner tube at the rear and another half air chamber in the bottom of the rear tire.
    - A set of extra tires because we can not say if they will keep the distance.
    - new battery.
    - Reinforced handlebar
    - crash bars.
    - New chain kits (RK chain)
    - double oil draining of the engine (the first to "clean" the engine which we know nothing of his previous life), the second with the viscosity index V300 15/40 to avoid hot shots when the engine will force into the sand!
    - Petrol tank supports at the rear to bring the range to more than 600 km
    - Soldering a flat iron to be able to crutch the side in the sand.
    - Sw Motech aluminum motor shoe to replace the original plastic.
    - Cigarette lighter plug to charge the Go Pro.
    - a real GPS (Garmin 276cx)
    - anti sand sock on the air filter.
    - Fuel filter at the entrance of the tank filling and ... go

    We are ready to cross Morocco, Mauritania and Senegal almost only by off road!


    A kind of mini Dakar! But old-fashioned, without assistance. Or Nice / Abidjan, the ancestor of the Dakar. I am too young to have known this beautiful time, but it is like Jesus, I heard about it. Just learn, read the sacred texts! This story of Transalp, it brought back in me all full of memories. In the 80ies, every January 1st passed, at 7 am, by the side of National 20 side Orleans (camera in hand, pictures that I still have), I used to come and to see the caravan pass through, the bikers chilled with cold running south. Some say that some of them went up in vans to avoid this torture. The Dakar, the real one, that of the tough guys, has shaped my childhood dreams but by the lobe of the impossible. You know what ? I can even tell you what I was doing on the day of Thierry Sabine's death!


    Well it's not all to project but must also act. We are not diviners or geographers, we will need expert information to recover traces off-road. I call Philippe Perrenoud from Trail Rando. With him I have already crisscrossed all Morocco (at the time of maps and compasses ... it was in the last century) but also Madagascar in rather incredible conditions (I'll tell you that one day). With his GPS specialist Henri-Pierre, they traced me a course of more than 2,000 km combining two of his excellent hikes (the Rekkam and Tarfaya), connecting Melilla in northern Morocco to Tan Tan at the doors of the desert . Amaury moves all the blogosphere and falls on the story of two Italians who traveled through Mauritania two years ago with two Africa Twin, a modern and an old. In their blog, the guys say that after a fall, one of the motorcycles caught fire ... for trying to restart it too early while gasoline had sank along the tank !! They no longer count punctures and have gone hungry and a breakdown of gas in the middle of nothing! Sounds good as a program no?

    More seriously, this story warns us and pushes us to be as autonomous as possible, 40 liters of gasoline each, 10 liters of water, first aid kit! We mix all these informations with some traces also bought on the website Gandini, and we get a real good Paris Dakar ! Just need a cherry on the cake. Because you see, in a trip, you always need a strong, intense, overtaking moment, a little Himalaya to yourself. Whatever it is. On the Dakar, the real one was Nega's pass. Nega: when you said that on the Dakar, you said everything. A place kept secret, invisible on the maps, still less by the satellites. A bit like the Bermuda Triangle. A pass that only the bravest could cross. We, our Nega pass, would be that of Tifoujar in the heart of Mauritania. A pass shaped like a deep sand path, wedged between a dune and a black ebony rock! Disturbing, dark and seemingly impassable uphill. It seems! For the trouble, we will trying doing it ... uphill. And if we arrive at the top, we'll do it down again! I'm really too stupid! No we will not do downhill, we will be exhausted and probably died of thirst!


    What ? What are you saying ? And our women in all this? Ha yeah, that's right. And our women we had to take on a ride in Morocco? I think the original project has a little slipped, I also think they do not blame us. They even gave us their blessing! Angels!
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  13. steved57

    steved57 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Woohoo I'm in and looking forward to the report
    #13
  14. Lolo Prod

    Lolo Prod Adventurer

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    77FE4464-2BE9-445B-8E33-466CE69BA424.jpeg 27982CDF-3273-457A-AD2E-E7DAF6ACDB92.jpeg 517A8CFA-E3F1-4266-A93A-C4A0578B9B1A.jpeg 25DA0930-1723-421C-87DA-A6464FD30D2B.jpeg What was saying before ? Oh yes, our women have given us their blessing for this PARIS / Dakar. Note, I think they understood it soule ne à réal mess! I explain to you! Departure Saturday evening 19:00! Our program: 1.800 kilometers in a van with two motorcycles in Malaga (to relieve the engines and tires). At around 4:00 am, Amaury asks me to drive ! Ok I have slept a little bit but I am not really fresh ! I held only an hour before i have to stop and sleep for half an hour! It was already my first failure!

    Sunday, 14:00, finally arrived in Malaga! On a beachfront parking, we free our two Transalp from their box! We feel them impatient. We are also ! First mission, fix all our luggage on the bike, create separately accessible subassemblies. Here the tools and what to repair a puncture. There, the video material . On this side the food ! Knowing that in terms of loading, it's not you, but the track that decides! The bumps and vibrations will necessarily change your previous plans and we will probably have to reorganize and re fix some things differently. It’s a bit like a new house, you need two days to find your marks!

    18:00, direction the ferry! Shit, my Bikes smells water coolant! Amaury dismantles the left side of the tank looking for a leak or stagnant liquid. Nothing ! We conclude that as long as it smells, there is liquid so ... it cools! You have to know how to be optimistic in life.



    21:30, the ferry opens wide ils mouth and engulfs us with our Transalp. I was harboring a secret hope! At 70 euros (motorcycle included) crossing to Melilla, it was rather cheap. But 300 euros the cabin with two beds, there was theft. So I told myself that when boarding, the cabins may not be all occupied and that there is a way to negotiate a good price! I was wrong and we spent a second night without really sleeping! Gently, in the middle of the restaurant, we slipped from sitting to lying down! It goes, no comment from the crew! A little later, step number 2, turn your motorcycle pants to replace it with something more comfortable. Step 3, take out your sleeping bag in the middle of what is starting to look like a camp! It goes too! Well yeah, when you play it hard, you try to do things gradually! Although we would have really liked that all these other people come out of our room. It would have helped us have a really good night.

    6:00, the ferry opens wide his mouth and throws us on the peer of Melilla, a small Spanish enclave. The border is only a formality. Okay, the customs chief is not yet awaken and a guy takes care of us to speed things up. Not a customs officer, not a cop, no, a guy, like you and me, who wanders in this space thatz should be under high surveillance! As if tomorrow, you decided to do the intermediary in a police station without asking anyone! The precious number of stay is written on our passports, first gear and gas to find a breakfast and change! The city is surprisingly peaceful compared to an arrival in Tanger. The smell of spices invades us, we take the direction of Guercif then Midelt. 50% bitumen, 50% special stage... well off-road I mean! This is not a race !
    I Show off but we are not really confident . That's right, we know almost nothing about our Transalp. We hardly made 10 kilometers in off-road with them and they must weigh around 230 kilos. We try to listen to any suspicious noise.

    These first kilometers are the opportunity to check everything and first fright! our fuell consumption is over 8 liters! Impossible. Quickly, we decide to remove the socks supposed to protect the air filters from the sand! Immediately the consumptiin returns to 6.5 liters more in line with our expectations, especially in Mauritania where fuell range will be crucial.

    Second fright on the second morning, oil level is at the minimum!!! Relax ! the 15/40 oilviscosity chosen for high temperatures is not really suitable for the zero degree of this freezing morning on the heights of Midelt. After a few kilometers and an ultimate check, the level returns to normal. Third « problem » I broke the plastic chain protection ! A scandal on a Beand New Hondaof 56,000 km! I think I will return it to a dealer shop for the warranty when I come back to France !

    From Midelt to Merzouga, it is nearly 400 off road kilometers!

    And as said Amaury "it's crazy"! A pass that opens on a savannah landscape, a sandy descent ! A dry lake during tens of km. Long climbs all in rocky steps which at their summit discover immense plains. Morocco remains incredibly wild. If our first steps were hesitant and the first sandy portions crossed awkward, the Transalp seems to be now an extension of our thinking! I swear to you that I am really surprised that this bike is so easy to handle. It reminds me of that old Yamaha 350 TTR with which I already made some Morocco. It does not seem like anything, but it does a great job.

    I have to stop writting! Tomorrow will be a long day
    from Mahmid to Tata. Mahmid/Tata. Mahmid / Tata. At the campsite where we sleep, the guides have warned us, the dunes of Chegaga are difficult, erg vast and almost impossible to cross with such heavy motorcycles. You know what ? A guide even offered to carry our luggage in his 4x4, the time to cross these 120 kilometers of bravery! You imagine, the guy wanted to deprive us of our pleasure to suffer !
    #14
  15. ozcruiser

    ozcruiser Been here awhile

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    Wow nice write and pics I'm in. :clap
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  16. GezwindeSpoed

    GezwindeSpoed Been here awhile

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    Great start of an amazing adventure. Tifoujar pass was no problem with a heavy motorbike (but I do have 100hp).
    #16
  17. Stravoxylo

    Stravoxylo Been here awhile

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    Subscribed!!! I've seen so many Lolo/MotoJournal videos. Dark dog tours were fun!!!
    #17
  18. Lolo Prod

    Lolo Prod Adventurer

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    A friendship or, a buddy, you can’t look for it, you cannot decide it. You just get it ! And do you know how to recognize it. A buddy is mainly somebody who can bear, forgive and live with all your defaults. And it’s crucial when you travel. In this adventure, I really can say that Amaury is the best buddy. Let me explain it to you. This morning, we woke up full of good resolutions. We had maintained the Transalp the night before (chain tension, grease, air filters, water coolant level) and just after breakfast, we got on the bike by 8.00. We were ready to face one ofour biggest day, as we had decided to go through Chegaga dunes ! By 8.05 am, we crossed the small city of Mhamid that sill looked aslept and we entered the trail heading to the dunes.

    By this exact moment, I started to thing : « hey ! What may I have forgotten in the campsite today ? My plug adapter ? No, it was yesterday ! » « Holly s… ! My mobile phone. I forgot my mobile ! »... not that I need it in the desert but there's my whole life in it: my photos and everything I've written to you since the beginning of this adventure. Far ahead, I do not see Amaury anymore. Too bad, I brake, u turn and go back to the campsite ! At the campsite, no phone. Amaury appears ! I ask him to call my number ... just in case! Miracle ! My Transalp rings exactly like my phone but it can’t find my phone ... which is nestled in the fairing after having slided along the tank ... that's all me. I am not surprised or disappointed!

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    We go back to the assault of the dunes and the term is not exaggerated. 20 kilometers of real dunes. 20 kilometers to look away, trying to find your way in this ocean. Hum !! In fact, 20 kilometers pushing, pulling and, raising our Transalp that our clumsiness does not always manage to preserve from falling. Past these 20 kilometers, the trail seems to be improving. It is still very sandy but widens slightly when ... damn … where is my video tripod? It was strapped here just under my big bag ! U-turn again ! I really hope I haven’t lost it too far from here. I zoom on the GPS screen and try to follow the same track but on the reverse way. Not easy, because you have to cross dunes by the wrong side !!! 20 kilometers after, here we are … in the campsite ! No video tripod. A resident takes me to see one of the guides who would have passedthrought the same track as us in the morning but no, he hasn’t seen anything. I have to admit it is definitely lost ! U Turn and cross again the dunes when... I see a kid with a cart, coming back from collecting wood in the dunes (of course it possible !). Second miracle : under his bundles of wood, the kid comes out ... my video tripod. Joy, thanks, faith in Allah ! It's now noon, we have done zero kilometer. Not really. In fact, we have done already 80 kilometers in those dunes but for nothing !

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    This is the point when I come back to my story of friendship. Something like that, it can quickly turn in big troubles with a normal team mate ! But Amaury doesn’t care ! For him, that’s the way it is, and he is ready to cross again those f….. dunes ! Zen, happy ! 20 kilometers of dunes followed by 60 other kilometers of deep sand in which we will spend 4 hours on the first or second gear (poor engines !). Our fuell consumption is more than 10 liters because of the sand and we are about to run out of fuell. In a very small village, we are offered gasoline for 2 euros per liter. 2 euros per liter ? Are you sure? We turn around, we scan the horizon and you know what? There were no yellow vests (the yellow vests strikes started in France because of fuell price). But there were no roundabout either, this is maybe why (yellow vests movement started also on round abouts) !!!

    Amaury who is a really good dealer asks : « how much can you offer for 20 liters. » The guy anwers 1.70 euros. « OK, says Amaury ! I take 10 liters for this price ! ». I never thought about dealing things in this way. The guy is OK but to proove that we are good guys, we alve buy bread and cans of sardines. It’s a real pain but we have to give up joigning Tata by the trails and we opt for the tarmac …with our mind still stuck in the highest dune of Chegaga. This is the first time we open the desert’s doors and it was good. I feel tired and my yes are closing but I cannot resist the urge to count you one last story. This very same day, I put a Go Pro on the bike, I get on my Transalp for filming and … Amaury comes to me with my camera bag I just had forgotten in the middle of the track ! He did hit me or punch me. He is a real good buddy ! Maybe also because I did not laugh at him when, in Malaga airport, he forgot his bag on a bench with his passport, boat ticket and everything in it. Maybe I am also a good buddy to him !

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    #18
  19. Lolo Prod

    Lolo Prod Adventurer

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    Today, not a lot to say ! In fact, 400 kilometers on the tarmac, another 100 on an easy track and 50 more on a tricky and stony one next to the cliffs of Plages Blanches in Morocco. This place is like Proust's madeleines for me (you know, those smells or sensations that reminds you of your childhood)! Because of this Proust's Madeleines, I wanted to come here, in Foum Assaka and its three ruins facing the ocean between Tan Tan and Agadir.

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    Let me explain you. It was something like 30 years ago. I started from Paris to Belfort (450 kilometers of highway) on a Honda 400 XR with off road tyres and all my gears on it. In deep winter. Then we loaded two bikes on a 4x4 and went to Agadir (2.500 km) to developp and new route for off road in this area. After 4 days of exploring the area, it was cold and dark night, and I fell off in a river (oued). I was completely wet but we had nowhere to go so we kept on riding. Philippe, my friend was also used to eating nothing during those moments (an orange and a piece of bread in the day) and I was really starving. Then, we arrive face to those famous cliff. In the night, thanks to the poor lights of our 400 XR, we find a path to get down to the beach. OK, there we are on the beach ! So what ? A fisherman comes to us and gives us the oportunity to sleep in his wooden hut. No roof and it's raining. Nice but we decide to keep on riding on the beach, north direction. We arrive at Oued Noun, an oued that looks really big and strong. In the dark, it was really impressive and looked like Zambeze river. Another fisherman comes to us to show the place where we can cross it. We succeed. OK, so what ? We see another cliff, we find a path to get on it, there is a group of 4 houses. it's 11 pm, we have nowhere to go, to sleep and to get dry! A inhabitant comes out and gives us hospitality ! Not in a bedroom, in a large room where all the family (grand parents included) sleeps. I get in my wet sleeming bag when I feel ... a drop of water on my face !!! The house is not waterproof and I am trying to sleep in this exact place, after this exhausting day. I am about a nervous break down. And you what? Today, everytime I am in an unconfortable position or situation, I always think about this moment and it helps me.

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    Another reason why I wanted to come back to Foum Assaka is that I broke my wrist there just behind a dune ! It took me 6 hours to find an hospital and get treated! So i wanted to ward off this bad luck. But Foum Assaka, it is also 20 kilometers of free riding on the sand of the beach. And just for this, it was worth coming with our 600 Transalp. Except that when we arrive there, it was high tide. My teammate must have been seek of my stupid stories and Proust's Madeleines at this moment. Especially because, in 30 years, this place became just awfull with houses unfinished and no more dunes :-( We wait for low tide and start our crazy ride for ... 1 kilometer only. Rocks compells us from staying on the beach. It is almost dark night, and we have to get again on the tricky and tony trails of the cliff ! Cooolllll ... especially because I had the idea to fill in our fuell tanks (18 liters in the main one + 11 on each side = 40 liters per bike). It was just to know how we could handle the bikes in those conditions, before entering Mauritania. You know what ? They are just ... heavier ! Maths is really simple when you think about it. So we have to ride very carrefully on those trails. I could imagine my team mate Amaury starting to grumble because of all my stupid ideas and memories ... when all of a suddeen, I stop and say to Amaury: "Look ! In front of us! The beach ! It looks like the Touquet or Lac Rose." we had found the way to join again the beach and ride on it. In a real dark night! 20 kilometers, it was really magic ! We could not see anything, however I swear it was beautifull ! Then, we feel our wheels drowning in the sand. there is an oued and the tide is getting high again. Hurry up, we find a path to get out of this mess and also a place for our tents. Close to the dunes, face to the ocean, it was cool.

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    I made boiled some water and we ate our dry food. Nice honeymoon ! If you use that kind of dried food, watch first of all the calories they contain. Sometimes, it can be 500 whereas you need 2.000 ! Not only that kind of food is really not good, but sometimes it does not feed you really ! When your last meal is from the day before (and it was) it may be important! I did a bit of toilet (our stock of 5 t-shirts / 5 shorts is already sold out), put some deodorant under the arms (pines fragance) but it still smells like a guy who would have shit behind a tree . We say " good night" each other to fall asleep on a too small mattress ! My tent being tossed by the wind. Trynig not to think about this plastic syringe that I had just seen dragging in the sand and the huge palace of Qatari that overlooked us in the middle of nowhere! Yeah, what do you think? That adventures is always wonderful? And that Madeleines, even Proust's ones, would have no expiry date?

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  20. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

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    i see 2 men and only 1 tent.....:lurk
    #20
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