Penny-tech stone guards for 640 Adventure

Well, I've been mulling the pros and cons of a Lexan style headlight guard. Basically, I don't like them. So have been on the hunt for wire mesh type stone guards. Plenty out there, just nothing that will fit the tiny Adventure lights.

Happened to be at Fry's (Outpost) the other day looking at PC cases. I spotted some 120mm case fans guards. Figured, what the hell. $4 for two. Looks like they might fit....

Turns out the fit like a charm! Cut off the two outer rings and this made the arms where you screw them into the case the perfect length. I kid you not! After a little bending + expanding two mounting holes a bit, they screwed right on to the two head light mounting bolts. One arm I cut off completely and the other I bent in so it rests on the head light case where the adjusting screw is. The metal is a lot stiffer than I though it would be, so it appears just having the two mounting points will work. If not, I can rig a small, low tension spring to the arm I cut off to hold it more securely in place. There is about a 1/4 inch gap between the lens and the guard. All and all, for only $4 and about an hour or so of labor, pretty slick.

super genious.

Another great idea. at first I thought you used some film developing reels. I might have to give that a try.


Nate

great post and great idea!

Good job Velo! Are they contacting the lights or is there some room between the guards and the lights? If not, what about using those in conjunction with the 3M stickies? I was wondering if small rocks might still get between the bars and damage the lights (which the 3M stuff would probably deal with). And perhaps the 3M stuff might help absorb some of the impact energy from larger rocks that are caught by your guard. They are not too expensive either, and I believe they do not yellow with age (or at least that's what they claim).

Just a thought...

At least it don't look visually impaired.....it's just a computer geek, when r ya installing the pocket protector?

Thanks for sharing your idea. I like it.

I've had the 3M thick plastic stick-on covers on for almost two years. Still as clear as new....

Are smashed headlights a real problem? It's just that I've bin riding bikes since I was 7 (30 years now) and most of em have had headlights and I have never had one broken by a rock or anything else for that matter. The most likely scenario for a broken light would be roost from the bike ya following. The bloke I ride with most of the time rides a GS1150ADV and boy does this thing throw some shit behind it. When I'm following him (which is most of the time) I just drop back out of the roost zone, problem solved.

I also use the 3M stuff on my ADV as to replace both lights is about $700AUD. It's not gunna stop a large rock from smashing the lens but it will hold the glass in place until a repair can be made, that's enough for me.

Not a "problem". More like simple prevention. You said it yourself. $700 to replace :eek1 . $4 is cheap insurance. You can't predict when that rock is going to fly. I also ride a lot on the street, and I've been hit a number of times with rocks. The windshield on my car has a couple good rock chips too. I suppose I could make a claim on my insurance if I get my lights cracked, but again, this is a hell of a lot easier and cheaper.

There's about 1/4" between lens & guard. Enough to get a rag in for cleaning / bug removing.

The fist time I took mine off road it cracked the low beam glass on a branch. I always hit branches and brush for some reason....

I like the idea and may do it myself. I still dont understand where you secured them but I am slow...

and in a pinch you can point them up and grill a bagel on them too.
now thats DS'ing

I'll find my way out....

When you remove the fairing, there are two bolts at about the 4 and 8 o'clock position that hold the lights to the frame. There is also an adjusting screw at the 11 o'clock (low beam) and 1 o'clock (high beam).

The lower two arms attach to the mounting bolts (right behind the bolt head). The other arm, I just bent so it rests against plastic housing of the adjusting screw.

(I can't find a place to post a fische image...)

Does this help?

perfect, thank you.

A few more close up pics....

Showing where it mounts to the bottom light mounting bolts



and how it just rests against the adjusting screw tab

Surprised I missed this when you started it... terrific idea Velo!

Thanks. I'm considering cutting a few more ring sections out to reduce the 'geek effect' and allow more light to pass. OTOH, now that I have the HIDs, I really don't need any more light. Maybe some day....


I've been putting off my next project for way too long. I'm finally going to modify my rear signals so they work as stop/turn/tail lights. I've had many people tell me that they can't even tell the rear running light is on during certain times of the day. That's simply not acceptable since I commute a lot on my bike.

I'm going to get a pair of the Buell signals, retro the sockets to 1157s for the stop & tail and add some amber superflux leds for the signals. My original thought was to go 100% led, but I no longer need the power savings. Heck, if it turns out well, I may even convert the fronts into amber running+signals.

BTW - I finally have a grease gun that'll pump grease into the prolink. Found it at a yard sale. Some fancy leverage linkage on it. Still need a 3rd hand to keep the fitting from popping off, but at least I don't have to take the damn thing apart anymore!

Great idea! One of the best penny tech ideas yet that I have seen.

You could try one of the expensive LED 1157 bulbs. The real good ones are at least $25 and some approach $40.

After my little get-off, 3 out of 4 of my OEM turn signals were hashed... so I got some Shock Racing LED jobbies.

I'm jealous.

C