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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Some-Young-Guy, Aug 1, 2009.
no, thank YOU for posting those pictures and text.
Huge Thanks for this thread
Was out on the town and noticed an ever changing friction point when I let out the clutch. If I pumped it a few times it returned to normal but if i left it alone for a bit engagement was at around 1/4" of lever travel.
Checked my Climber manual under trouble shooting and first thing stated for the issue above was low clutch fluid. Checked my fluid and there was next to none in the reserver (shame on me). Figured I had gotten air into the system and decided to bleed the whole thing out. Located the rubber tube next to the helmet lock and was like :huh that's not a bleeder nipple.
After 2 min on ADV I found the info I needed and 20 min later I was opening my 2nd beer and pulling on a much firmer clutch lever. Oddly enought I had a pack of M10x1 speed bleeders just sitting in a spare parts bin. A little heat on the Grub assembly and it was off in a flash...
...Think I owe someone a beer
And where do you think the clutch fluid went?? As clutch plate wears the fluid rises in handlebar reservoir. Better save some of that beer for after you fix the source of the leak.
I was thinking the same thing.
It could be that the slave cylinder is leaking. My old slave cylinder was leaking DOT4 fluid and there was no indication of the leak until I removed the slave cylinder from the bike. The recess for the slave cylinder was wet with DOT4 fluid.
Is this the correct size for the speedbleeder?
So I have figured a way to add this (and other) threads to the HoW. And so it shall be.
Excellent thread keep up the good work and photos!
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't this microfiche show the hoses connected wrong on the slave? Shouldn't the bleed hose be on front and lever hose on back? OR are we all doing it wrong!
Tuckers, you are right. On mine (2001 Australian model) it is the other way round. Hmmmh, makes one wonder about the German efficiency & correctness??
I just bled my clutch fluid for the first time yesterday and these pics were helpful--especially the BMW bleeder screw part #
Speaking of which, is there any reason to not just leave that bleeder screw in place (like the brake line bleeder screws) or is there some reason to remove it and put the grub screw back on?
so I was attempting to bleed and that little grub screw stripped real bad, am I out a whole new assembly? Or can I find new cap screws, assuming I can get the old one out without damaging the threads on bearing thingy
The grub screw seals the ball off. I have seen the odd ball weeping back.
And you do not want water making its way in there.
This from BMW OE directions:
'Warning: The motorcycle
must never be ridden without
the Allen set screw inserted
and tightened at the filling
You'll probably have to replace the assembly. Note that it is loctited to the mating part so some heat will be required to remove it or you risk stripping those threads as well.
Or you can replace with this:
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr style="vertical-align: middle; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: #ddd;"><td style="width: 85px; border-left: solid 1px #ddd; border-bottom: solid 1px #ccc; font-weight: bold;" align="left">34 21 2 330 310</td><td style="width: 235px; border-left: solid 1px #ddd; border-bottom: solid 1px #ccc; font-family: Arial Narrow;" align="left"> VENT SCREW - M10</td><td style="width: 30px; border-left: solid 1px #ddd; border-bottom: solid 1px #ccc;" align="right">0.02 </td><td style="width: 35px; border-left: solid 1px #ddd; border-bottom: solid 1px #ccc;" align="right">1 </td><td style="border-left: solid 1px #ddd; border-bottom: solid 1px #ccc; width: 100px;" align="right">$10.44</td></tr><tr style="background-color: #ddd;"><td colspan="6" style="border-bottom: solid 1px #666;"><table style="width: 510px; font-size: 11px;" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="3"><tbody><tr><td>
</td><td align="left" valign="top">Bleeder can replace or be used in conjunction with ventilation screw when applicable. This PN comes with the vent screw cap. No need to order it separately. Open the PDF file for additional information on this part as a bleeder screw.</td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table>
But if you use too much heat you will damage the hose...
Dip the end unit in a cup of boiling water for 2 minutes. Then unscrew.
Also do the same before attempting to undo the grub screw and it'll come out easy.
Can the slave cylinder be removed, the throw out bearing be cleaned, lubricated and installed with a new gasket?
Yes, I have simply pushed fresh grease into my own unit 3 times over 172,000 miles. It is original.
Sadly by the time I have seen others greasing no longer helps.
Many new slave units come undergreased so be sure to add before installing.
As far as the gasket goes, re-use the original and cut a slit out of the bottom. That way if the slave starts to leak the fluid will leak out the back instead of towards the clutch disc.
great info and pics. As a fellow 04 R1150GSAdv rider, this is something I haven't had to do (yet) in my home shop.
Looks easier than expected.
Hi GS Addict,
Pulled my Slave cyclinder today and it was a little "gunky", see picture. Are you saying this could possibly be cleaned and re-greased or is it
probably past the point of no return?
It certainly looks like brake fluid leakage.
Take a finger tip of the "gunk" and run it under the tap.
If it is water soluble and washes away, it is brake fluid. The seal is damaged and most likely the cylinder bore as well.
This is caused by the bearing running out of lubrication and the piston spinning.
If the "gunk" does not wash away and smells like gear oil, them the issue is the rear input shaft seal of the transmission. Not likely IMO.