Pictorial: 04 R1150GS Hydraulic Clutch Flush

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Some-Young-Guy, Aug 1, 2009.

  1. IHMSAKIWI

    IHMSAKIWI Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2014
    Oddometer:
    347
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    Auckland, New Zealand
    Well I did the water-soluble test and yes it was. Pulled the circlip and spent 5 minutes looking for whatever flew out. Boy is that thing under a bit of spring pressure. I am hoping it just consists of one spring, one piston and one circlip. Please say it is so?

    The unit once wiped clean is in perfect condition so I am glad I decided to pull it and check it out before rust started. All surfaces are smooth. bearing feels fine so I will grease and put back together. Thanks for your help, again.
    #41
  2. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

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    Very good. One spring - yes.
    Make sure you provide an escape for the fluid in event of a failure. At minimum, cutting out the bottom of the gasket. Ideally - cutting a slot in the back mating face of the transmission or drilling a hole (my preference)

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    #42
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  3. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

    Joined:
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    After reading this it appears that the clutch slave cylinder assembly may be able to be salvaged if leaking. GS Addict, is this the case?

    If so, mine is coming off for a cleaning, flushing and lubrication. I assume the seal lip wear away if the piston begins to spin. Is there a source for a new seal?
    #43
  4. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

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    He said he disassembled it and found no damage. Based on this feedback I would say he is able to lube the bearing and reuse the slave.
    That is if the anodizing on the piston and bore being perfect and not worn or scratched.
    Dan Cata sells the seals as well as BB I believe.

    Don't forget to trim back the sheath while you are in there.

    [​IMG]

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    #44
    sweatmark likes this.
  5. IHMSAKIWI

    IHMSAKIWI Been here awhile

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    Hi GS Addict, so no problem with water finding its way into the slave with the hole? Please advise how far back from lip and suggested drill gauge and I will add this to the list of things to do (lottd) . My lottd is getting longer. I have taken the opportunity to check as much as I can since I am stripping it down and would hate for something to bugger up just after re-assembly.
    #45
  6. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

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    A lot more water can get in from around the starter than from than that hole if you look closely!
    A 1/8" hole about 1/4" back is fine, or you can dremel a channel in the rear mating face.
    #46
  7. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv Super Moderator Supporter

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    Location:
    :o)
    changed my clutch slave two weeks ago and my lines didn't have that smeeve that needs to be trimmed back o0 on the used spare there was one so I trimmed it ans aipped tied as suggested but still bizarre
    #47
  8. roger 04 rt

    roger 04 rt Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
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    3,425
    Location:
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    I’m two for two on clutch slave replacements. ‘04RT at 30K miles and just yesterday my ‘01GS at 45,000 miles. I just did the GS as a precaution and am glad I did. It was slightly weeping, the fluid had absorped water and there was about half a teaspoon of crud on the bottom and the bearing was dry, loose and rattling around. It makes me wonder if any slaves don’t fail.

    The job’s a bit of a pain:
    —remove seats
    —remove left and right seat adjusters
    —remove rear brake caliper
    —remove rear wheel
    —remove muffler
    —remove catalytic converter
    —remove left shock adjuster
    —remove shock/strut
    —tape mud flap to fender
    —detach zip tie for clutch bleed
    —drain clutch master cylinder
    —remove clutch slave (very fiddlely job)
    —overhaul/replace slave cylinder
    —reassemble and torque most bolts
    —fill, bleed and check for leaks

    Took about 2 1/2 hours.
    #48
  9. manfromthestix

    manfromthestix Lost in Space Supporter

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    Took about 2 1/2 hours.

    I did this on my RT a while back and it took about 2 1/2 DAYS... :bluduh

    It's much simpler on the GS and still a PITA. I did a thread on replacing the clutch slave cylinder on an RT if anyone's interested. I used this thread as a guide. Thanks again, AdvRider and the Collective Wisdom! :thumb
    #49
    JimVonBaden likes this.
  10. roger 04 rt

    roger 04 rt Long timer

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    On the R1150GS It took me 2 1/2 hours spread over two days. Then on the test ride I realized there was still some air in the hydraulic lines, so added another 1/2 hour to bleed it again. I found that bringing the bleed tube upward creates a pool of fluid in the tube that made it easier to see when the bubbles stopped.
    #50
  11. sykospain

    sykospain Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2014
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    south-eastern Med coast of Spain
    Might be repeating myself here....mainly 'cos my Clutch Slave Refurb job is taking several weeks of waiting for parts :-- principally a new non-Magura cylinder ( the OEM model fails for fun, even when new and carefully re-greased before installation).

    This job is also combined with my need to raise the handlebar on my bike and use the bar risers that came with the original, straight, impossibly wrist-wrenching bar, quickly substituted for a Roadster one with better angles and a slight lift. But trying to add the bar risers showed that the two braided hoses - clutch and front brake - were just too short to permit that.

    By sourcing a small set of seal-picks I was with very great difficulty able to hoick-out the fatally-damaged original oil seal that sits in the cavity occupied by the slave cylinder, wrecking all five of the picks in the process, and by sourcing a small set of very long small-diameter drill bits I was able to drill the recommended weep hole upwards from the bottom of the gearbox casting into the cavity.

    As to the thorny issue of initial access to the slave cylinder for first removal, opinions differ on whether the rear-frame transverse bar is too much of a hindrance. After much thought, and not being the most nimble-finger weekend warrior due to my incipient tremor, I decided that the bastard was indeed too much of a hindrance. Members like Steptoe and GSAddict and roger-rt might be able to undo those three retaining bolts and wriggle the thing under and out, but by no means me. No way.

    Hence my video :- If you think I wasted my time by removing the tank and raising the frame a little so as to withdraw that blasted bar, then that's your opinion, not mine.

    insert video

    [​IMG]



    The job is eased by adopting the various tips offered by the redoubtable Chris Harris, now thankfully and finally re-settled deep in the woods in Aurora, an idyllic part of Maine where one car passes every hour, not a hundred as was the case in his former home in New Hampshire.

    A squirt of surgical spirit eases manhandling the air box tubes. It's an excellent rubber-lube and leaves no residue [ Rubbing Alcohol is the USA term ]

    And throwing the intake tubes thin rubber sealing ring into the freezer for half-an-hour tightens their face muscles better than spending a tenner on new ones.

    And note my liberal use of Copaslip for thread lubing. Torque the bolt to the right Nm and even with Copaslip, it won't shake out and you can easily remove it next time.

    AL in sunny and still-sweltering Andalucía.
    #51