Pictorial: 04 R1150GS Hydraulic Clutch Flush

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Some-Young-Guy, Aug 1, 2009.

  1. IHMSAKIWI

    IHMSAKIWI Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2014
    Oddometer:
    402
    Location:
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Well I did the water-soluble test and yes it was. Pulled the circlip and spent 5 minutes looking for whatever flew out. Boy is that thing under a bit of spring pressure. I am hoping it just consists of one spring, one piston and one circlip. Please say it is so?

    The unit once wiped clean is in perfect condition so I am glad I decided to pull it and check it out before rust started. All surfaces are smooth. bearing feels fine so I will grease and put back together. Thanks for your help, again.
    #41
  2. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,374
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast B.C.
    Very good. One spring - yes.
    Make sure you provide an escape for the fluid in event of a failure. At minimum, cutting out the bottom of the gasket. Ideally - cutting a slot in the back mating face of the transmission or drilling a hole (my preference)

    [​IMG]
    #42
    sweatmark likes this.
  3. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,290
    Location:
    The woods and mountains of Alabama
    After reading this it appears that the clutch slave cylinder assembly may be able to be salvaged if leaking. GS Addict, is this the case?

    If so, mine is coming off for a cleaning, flushing and lubrication. I assume the seal lip wear away if the piston begins to spin. Is there a source for a new seal?
    #43
  4. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,374
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast B.C.
    He said he disassembled it and found no damage. Based on this feedback I would say he is able to lube the bearing and reuse the slave.
    That is if the anodizing on the piston and bore being perfect and not worn or scratched.
    Dan Cata sells the seals as well as BB I believe.

    Don't forget to trim back the sheath while you are in there.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #44
    sweatmark likes this.
  5. IHMSAKIWI

    IHMSAKIWI Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2014
    Oddometer:
    402
    Location:
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Hi GS Addict, so no problem with water finding its way into the slave with the hole? Please advise how far back from lip and suggested drill gauge and I will add this to the list of things to do (lottd) . My lottd is getting longer. I have taken the opportunity to check as much as I can since I am stripping it down and would hate for something to bugger up just after re-assembly.
    #45
  6. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,374
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast B.C.
    A lot more water can get in from around the starter than from than that hole if you look closely!
    A 1/8" hole about 1/4" back is fine, or you can dremel a channel in the rear mating face.
    #46
  7. Loutre

    Loutre Cosmopolitan Adv Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    13,551
    Location:
    :o)
    changed my clutch slave two weeks ago and my lines didn't have that smeeve that needs to be trimmed back o0 on the used spare there was one so I trimmed it ans aipped tied as suggested but still bizarre
    #47
  8. roger 04 rt

    roger 04 rt Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,457
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    I’m two for two on clutch slave replacements. ‘04RT at 30K miles and just yesterday my ‘01GS at 45,000 miles. I just did the GS as a precaution and am glad I did. It was slightly weeping, the fluid had absorped water and there was about half a teaspoon of crud on the bottom and the bearing was dry, loose and rattling around. It makes me wonder if any slaves don’t fail.

    The job’s a bit of a pain:
    —remove seats
    —remove left and right seat adjusters
    —remove rear brake caliper
    —remove rear wheel
    —remove muffler
    —remove catalytic converter
    —remove left shock adjuster
    —remove shock/strut
    —tape mud flap to fender
    —detach zip tie for clutch bleed
    —drain clutch master cylinder
    —remove clutch slave (very fiddlely job)
    —overhaul/replace slave cylinder
    —reassemble and torque most bolts
    —fill, bleed and check for leaks

    Took about 2 1/2 hours.
    #48
  9. manfromthestix

    manfromthestix Lost in Space Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,104
    Location:
    Lexington, Virginia
    Took about 2 1/2 hours.

    I did this on my RT a while back and it took about 2 1/2 DAYS... :bluduh

    It's much simpler on the GS and still a PITA. I did a thread on replacing the clutch slave cylinder on an RT if anyone's interested. I used this thread as a guide. Thanks again, AdvRider and the Collective Wisdom! :thumb
    #49
    JimVonBaden likes this.
  10. roger 04 rt

    roger 04 rt Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,457
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    On the R1150GS It took me 2 1/2 hours spread over two days. Then on the test ride I realized there was still some air in the hydraulic lines, so added another 1/2 hour to bleed it again. I found that bringing the bleed tube upward creates a pool of fluid in the tube that made it easier to see when the bubbles stopped.
    #50
  11. sykospain

    sykospain Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2014
    Oddometer:
    153
    Location:
    south-eastern Med coast of Spain
    Might be repeating myself here....mainly 'cos my Clutch Slave Refurb job is taking several weeks of waiting for parts :-- principally a new non-Magura cylinder ( the OEM model fails for fun, even when new and carefully re-greased before installation).

    This job is also combined with my need to raise the handlebar on my bike and use the bar risers that came with the original, straight, impossibly wrist-wrenching bar, quickly substituted for a Roadster one with better angles and a slight lift. But trying to add the bar risers showed that the two braided hoses - clutch and front brake - were just too short to permit that.

    By sourcing a small set of seal-picks I was with very great difficulty able to hoick-out the fatally-damaged original oil seal that sits in the cavity occupied by the slave cylinder, wrecking all five of the picks in the process, and by sourcing a small set of very long small-diameter drill bits I was able to drill the recommended weep hole upwards from the bottom of the gearbox casting into the cavity.

    As to the thorny issue of initial access to the slave cylinder for first removal, opinions differ on whether the rear-frame transverse bar is too much of a hindrance. After much thought, and not being the most nimble-finger weekend warrior due to my incipient tremor, I decided that the bastard was indeed too much of a hindrance. Members like Steptoe and GSAddict and roger-rt might be able to undo those three retaining bolts and wriggle the thing under and out, but by no means me. No way.

    Hence my video :- If you think I wasted my time by removing the tank and raising the frame a little so as to withdraw that blasted bar, then that's your opinion, not mine.

    insert video

    [​IMG]



    The job is eased by adopting the various tips offered by the redoubtable Chris Harris, now thankfully and finally re-settled deep in the woods in Aurora, an idyllic part of Maine where one car passes every hour, not a hundred as was the case in his former home in New Hampshire.

    A squirt of surgical spirit eases manhandling the air box tubes. It's an excellent rubber-lube and leaves no residue [ Rubbing Alcohol is the USA term ]

    And throwing the intake tubes thin rubber sealing ring into the freezer for half-an-hour tightens their face muscles better than spending a tenner on new ones.

    And note my liberal use of Copaslip for thread lubing. Torque the bolt to the right Nm and even with Copaslip, it won't shake out and you can easily remove it next time.

    AL in sunny and still-sweltering Andalucía.
    #51
  12. Francistor83

    Francistor83 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2015
    Oddometer:
    155
    Location:
    Paris
    Sorry to revive this thread, but I'm really confused. Which hose should be connected to the front and which one to the back? Is the part fiche wrong? I'm quite sure mine was mounted the other way and I'm in doubt as to how I should remount them. Thanks for your help! (R 1150 GSA 2004)
    #52
  13. PaulBarton

    PaulBarton Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2015
    Oddometer:
    2,240
    Location:
    Seattle
    How are you using the terms "front" and "back"? When mounted on the bike the "front" is where the bleed hose mounts (slightly to the right in the fiche diagram) and the "back" is from the clutch lever. I haven't been down there in awhile but as I recall they can only mount one way. If you look at GSAddict's post (#44) he has an image of it mounted. It's the same as the parts fiche. The hose from the lever is to the rear of the bike (on left in photo) and the bleed line is to the front (right in photo). You can see the tabs on the slave cylinder housing that route the line in the appropriate direction.

    Keep in mind the clutch slave is only assisting the lever. The DOT4 only circulates between the lever and the slave cylinder (and the bleed hose when you're flushing it).
    #53
    Francistor83 likes this.
  14. Francistor83

    Francistor83 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2015
    Oddometer:
    155
    Location:
    Paris
    Thanks Paul. Looking at post #44, it seems like the pic is not how the parts fiche shows it. I meant front/right versus rear/left... So it means the fiche diagram is just wrong, right? Just double checking, but my hoses were just like the pic on post #44 and other pics I've checked. Just want to make sure I have to redo everything or not...:-)
    #54
  15. PaulBarton

    PaulBarton Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2015
    Oddometer:
    2,240
    Location:
    Seattle
    I looked at that diagram multiple times and thought every time that it was just like the pic in #44. Must be partly due to me knowing how it’s supposed to go and partly to the perspective on the line drawings. You are correct the parts fiche is incorrect. I’m not sure it’s physically possible to mount them as shown in the parts diagram.
    #55
    Francistor83 likes this.
  16. Francistor83

    Francistor83 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2015
    Oddometer:
    155
    Location:
    Paris
    Agreed, it didn't even occur to me it could be any different while remounting the thing. The parts fiche is incorrect. Problem solved, and no rework. Thanks again for your help!
    #56
    PaulBarton likes this.
  17. doublemocha

    doublemocha Nulla

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2013
    Oddometer:
    305
    Location:
    Los Angeles, California
    I already strip mine, I will have to separate the bleeder valve from the hose to get the Allen screw off. do I need to worry about rubber o ring getting burned inside? thx
    #57