Maybe they changed it, and I got an old stock item or something, but that was the part number. Now on the Pro-Circuit website it doesn't show the tube. There's another Pitsters owner that got the same one that I got and adapted it to the LXR250 Pitster. It had a tube same as mine, same part number. Here's one on ebay, same price I paid, same pic. https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO-CIRCUI...S8AAOSw3fZZ-wJO:sc:USPSFirstClass!83623!US!-1
Another one here, same look. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Circui...136669&hash=item2cda575f35:g:4wwAAOSw4axbh1~N
FSEe Rear brake switch, banjo bolt, rear brake light taillight part confirmed. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1195/25925/Tusk-Hydraulic-Brake-Switch-Nissin-Brakes Spliced into one of the grounds. Then connected to the remaining positive. Ran the wire under the frame saver and then under the tank. Works great.
Thanks. I tapped it out but, damn was that bolt stuck. I then took the bolts out holding the subframe - that gave me plenty of room to pull the shock out. - Cheers!
Ok, guys got my xtr a few days ago. Today I was finally able to put gas in it and get her started. Took a quick ride around the block and it's going to be a fun bike or sure! Here is my problem though. Even after getting the bike warmed up, it won't run without the choke on at least half way. Out of the box, the idle was only around 950-1000 rpm. Got that turned up to about 1600 rpm. Hopefully, someone here can point me in the direction to what to look for next. Also, another quick question-I don't think I saw listed anywhere. How much gas is left when, I have to hit the reserve? Thanks Josh
Put a thousand miles on it and it will start running much better. They all run like crap for a while until the EFI gets its setting figured out.
The xtr isn't efi, its got the old school carb. I know I'm going to have to dig into the carb. Was just wondering what I should start with. Seems like the pilot jet is the one to start with.
Are you sure it's in the right position? My bike happily starts no matter where the choke lever is, but only runs well in the right position. Can't remember which off the top of my head.
Up is on, down is off, has a halfway detent. Check the idle mixture, they seem to ship adjusted way in or way out.
Well, I feel dumb. I spent last night pulling parts off the bike to get to the carb. After getting it off, I did realize I thought the choke was working in the opposite direction. I thought pushing the black lever down would engage the choke, but that turns it off. Lesson learned-wish I had seen the above post sooner! But, now I can get it back together and go riding.
I noticed a small pool of oil under my son's FSE250E a few days after our last ride. The leak seemed to be coming from the stator cover area, so I disassembled to take a look. Although I had ordered a new CRF230 left side gasket to replace the presumably faulty factory gasket, I was surprised to find that there was no gasket installed from the factory: ... which explains why it was leaking. I'm surprised it took this long to develop a leak - probably because the small case cover bolts were extraordinary tight. I was shocked that none broke while trying to loosen them. Should have been a simple fix... but unfortunately, the CRF230 gasket doesn't quite fit - the area around the starter & stator wiring is different: I prefer Zongshen's design, but that doesn't help me with my gasket/leak situation. Searching around, I don't see any equivalent gasket for the 172FMM. I don't see a gasket behind the clutch cover, either. Seems odd to me... and prone to developing leaks. Advice? Should I just use RTV?
Was there any gasket maker residue? If there was nothing at all and it sealed for any amount of time…that points to very good machining...probably bodes well for the rest of the engine. If no gasket from the factory, I’d follow suit myself. I’d probably just use a very thin layer of high temp RTV of some sort...Hondabond, Yamabond, Permatex, etc. Of course if there were a gasket available, I’d use that.
I would call GPX first to find out if it's supposed to have a gasket or just sealant, but I'd have to imagine that there should be a gasket there. Not a good sign if it was meant for one yet not installed. On another note, seems like that stator is wired for some fairly decent power beyond just keeping the battery charged.
OK, another question for you guys. I've gotten to only put a few road miles on my xtr so far. Got the carb tuned pretty well I think. But, a new issue has popped up. It seems like the starter solenoid is sticking. Key on, lights and everything come on, but start button does nothing. If I give the kick start a kick or put the bike in gear and give it a bit of a push-the button will work. I checked the fuse at the battery-it's good, cable on the starter is tight. Not sure what else to check. Anyone else had this issue?
There was no residue whatsoever - I took the pics without touching the surfaces on either side. It is impressive that it lasted all summer. But it did end up leaking and seems to need some kind of gasket. The bolts certainly had not loosened and were all incredibly tight. Searching around, I haven't been able to find a gasket for this motor.
Any auto parts store should have gasket material . https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-gasket-material-3045/19780351-P
+1 for yamabond. That stuff is incredible. A paper thin sheen of that stuff seems to work better than any RTV I've seen.
