Playing with the chair

Discussion in 'New Zealand' started by Box'a'bits, Aug 29, 2015.

  1. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair Supporter

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    Short term contract. Haven't been employed for 18 mths (by choice). The savings have taken a hit & need a little top up. It's cheaper to be warmer at work. And it reduces noise at home:zilla

    The new workplace has parking for bikes (& sidecars), & I'll be able to give Miss Box.a.bits a lift into University.
    innathyzit, Te Hopo and Muzz67 like this.
  2. Mark_S

    Mark_S Fair Weather Faggot

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    so how long and what is it?
  3. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair Supporter

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    Replied via PM
  4. dazzadm

    dazzadm Long timer

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    Ooooohhhh, secret squirel stuff, must be good. :-) Or else it's too embarising...
    Te Hopo and Manakau.KTM like this.
  5. Manakau.KTM

    Manakau.KTM Been here awhile

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    Gone undercover
  6. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair Supporter

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    Yup, that's it...
  7. Night Falcon

    Night Falcon Broke Engine Supporter

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    a nodz as good as a wink to blind bat........
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  8. Mark_S

    Mark_S Fair Weather Faggot

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    prostitution is not embarrassing
    good on Steve for being prepared to expand his horizons...
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  9. Muzz67

    Muzz67 Unadventurous

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    Expand what?!?
  10. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair Supporter

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    Yes, it's true, I am a LOVE GOD.
    The marketing lads told me that, so it must be true.






    Why does my arse hurt?
    dazzadm likes this.
  11. dazzadm

    dazzadm Long timer

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    Escort by chair is it then?:gdog
  12. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair Supporter

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    Slipped some silky stainless pipes into waiting heads tonight.

    Won't be long until their looks will be in keeping with the rest of the rig (manky). They stand out a bit at the moment as one of the few shiney bits on the tug. It'll sure be nice not to hear the exhaust leak all the time. It just about sounds as good as Jonathan Mackies now.

    Nice to take advantage of the Britex turmoil. Brought the cost down to just under the GST threshold.

    Been relegated to commuting duties for the last 4 weeks.
  13. dazzadm

    dazzadm Long timer

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    Had to put my glasses on to read that one... Thought it read "Slipped some silky stockings on...":photog
  14. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair Supporter

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    Its that alternate career choice coming thru again...
  15. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair Supporter

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    SUMMERHILL & ADMIRALS RD - WELLINGTON RIDE OUT - 17TH JUL
    Linky

    MAINTENANCE 26,664 KMS:
    Chair suspension:

    Noted a few weeks ago that the preload adjustment collar on the shock on chair had caught on the swingarm, & had broken & twisted. I knew that the adjustment collar had limited clearance, & had run the preload down as much as I dared. Obviously that was marginally too much. It was only a piece of muck metal, rolled to shape, with a tack weld holding it closed (stock Honda, hiding under the removed chrome covers), so I wasn’t 100% surprised it let go (at the weld). The spring dropped, & was now resting on the spring holders & the swingarm. Perfectly safe, but I didn’t really want passengers in there until it was made good.

    I repaired the old preload adjustment collar, but just wasnt happy with it’s strength. Photo is of it after initial straightening & a tack weld to help it retain its shape.

    [​IMG]

    So last weekend I made a new preload / spring retainer out of a piece of Mandy’s old scooter. That was slightly small, so I cut it, inserted another peice of metal., & welded the two together. Not the prettiest weld, but strong, & overall much heavier metal. No adjustability - I figured I didn't need it.

    Getting it onto the shock required my makeshift spring compressor being put back to service. H&S nightmare, but it worked. The photo is a stock one, from last time I pulled the shock to pieces.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Tug suspension:
    Tried for a WoF a couple of weeks ago. Couldn’t get to MD because of work commitments, so it had to be VTNZ on Saturday. So this required removing the chair & all the fittings, so that the WoF was based just on the bike.

    Of course square tyres don’t help handling, & the tester definitely didn’t like that, but there are no laws that require round rubber. He also didn’t like the tight steering head bearings (preload helps with potential head shakes on a sidecar), but though he complained, he couldn’t identify a fault. I thought I was going to piss in because of the work & new parts I’d thrown at it. But - Wrong! This tester has a thing about bushes (he failed the car the week before – but that’s another story), & he definitely didn’t like the bottom one on the rear suspension of the tug. I’d noticed a while ago that the rubber/ urethane was starting to perish, so perhaps he had a point.

    The good news is that the Koni mono shock takes the stock BMW bush top & bottom, so getting the replacement part was okay (I’d been concerned that I might struggle, & wasn’t really looking forward to having to buy a replacement shock just yet). So a just a delay of 10 days waiting on 1st class post from Motorworks. Not as good as Motobins 5 days Fedex, but cheaper.

    Today I removed the shock & pressed out the inner bush & rubber, using a socket as a drift.

    [​IMG]

    On the outer bush I ran a bead of weld inside the bush in order to shrink it, & then it popped out of the shock end fairly easily.

    [​IMG]

    Pressed back in the new bush using the vise & a bigger socket. Photos shows the surgically clean conditions under which I operate. I have a tool for every purpose. I’ll have you know that vice is probably an antique, & was my great uncles. No 30 tonne presses here...

    Rear Tyre:
    The Heidenau K60 was a good tyre, but was on wear limits, so has been replaced with another K60 Scout. Did 6,730 sidecar kms, which is really 5,633 adjusted kms (the sidecar runs an R65 final drive, so the speedo over reads).

    Miscellaneous:
    While I had an order in at Motorworks (for the shock bush) I also took the opportunity to get a new gear shift lever rubber, fuel cap rubber seal, & some new fuel tap internal filter socks (these sit inside the tank). I’ve also replaced the external fuel filters (sourced locally). The external filter originals were really old (off the bent bike) & were starting to restrict fuel flow.
    Te Hopo likes this.
  16. Manakau.KTM

    Manakau.KTM Been here awhile

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    And the float bowl retention kit....?
  17. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair Supporter

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  18. dazzadm

    dazzadm Long timer

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    :nod
    Yes, good plan. That's a nice way of doing it
  19. Box'a'bits

    Box'a'bits In need of repair Supporter

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    FLOAT BOWL RETAINING LEASH:
    After losing a carb float bowl on the Hinakura / Admirals Rd loop, I decided I needed some way of retaining them. It’s only the 2nd time in 26 years of riding BMWs I’ve lost one, but the consequences of doing that in the wrong time / place could be dire, either:
    1. The float bowl getting damaged or destroyed by following traffic, or;
    2. Total loss.
    Not a total disaster - if either happened, I could tie the float up, so that gas didn’t go to that carb, & limp home on one carb & one cylinder. But if I was on a longer trip... I'd rather mitigate the risk now.

    The float bowls are held on with a wire retaining clip. This is normally positively located on the float bowl by some indents at the bottom of the float bowl – but because these carbs are high mileage, the indents have worn.

    The most recent incident was caused when the float bowl clip was caught by the bottom buckle on my boots.

    I have made up some leashes, to stop the float bowls falling completely away from the bike. This was based on similar leashes made up by Solo Lobo (Advrider), which were in turn based on leashes that used to be commercially available elsewhere.

    I used:
    • Some light stainless wire, purchased at $2.00/m from a Marine Shop;
    • Electrical eyelets
    • Electrical wiring joiners
    • Stainless screws
    • Heat shrink
    • A 3.00mm nail to punch out the blanking cap in the float bowl

    [​IMG]

    I removed the float bowl, & carefully drilled a (3.00mm) hole at the bottom into the capped portion at the side of the bowl. The other side of the float bowl is open, & is used for the enricher circuit - you definitely don't want to bugger that up. I used the nail to tap out the steel cap.

    [​IMG]

    I crimped the eyelet onto the stainless wire, soldered the crimp to make that more secure, & put some heat shrink over that to tidy it a little. I then cut the wire at 110mm, & threaded the end thru the hole at the bottom of the float bowl & out the top. I crimped 1/2 of the joiner onto that, & soldered this & then applied more heat shrink so that wouldn't rattle.

    [​IMG]

    Then pulled the joiner to the bottom of the bore, put a little silicon into the hole to keep the water out, & pushed the cap back in place at the top.

    [​IMG]

    Finally, I drilled out the blank screw holes on the carb, to the depth of the screws, & screwed the eyelet to the carb.

    [​IMG]

    I'll see how this goes. If it doesn't catch on anything else, or cause too many issues when I want the float bowls off, then I'll make some up for Gus.

    The beginnings of the Mark II version. I'm also thinking of branching into a line of ladies earrings...

    [​IMG]
  20. Mark_S

    Mark_S Fair Weather Faggot

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    and, of course, make some for the local airhead fraternity