Powerplus or Bust, Eh?

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by Twotaildog, Jul 26, 2014.

  1. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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    I've been experimenting with plastic blast media on cast iron. It pops the paint right off but doesn't affect the texture of the base metal. It doesn't do much for rust though.

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    For paint and some very light rust it seems to be the ticket, especially on antique items when you want to preserve as much of the original material texture as you can. Removal of heavier rust would call for chemicals or a more aggressive abrasive.

    I haven't tried it on aluminum yet, but I'm anxious to do so. I think it's going to be the hot tip for aluminum parts, I have a feeling it will remove the paint and old grime without giving the aluminum that satin appearance that other abrasives do. I will also try it on sheet metal, my hope is that it will remove paint etc. without putting any stresses in the sheet metal that can cause warping. I'll post when I know more. If you have any experience with this, please chime in.




    Kevin

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  2. oldroadie

    oldroadie Two wheel addict

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    You’ll have to tell us if it leaves any residue or if you have a post-blast wash that removes same. Seems it could be like a softer medium than water.
  3. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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    As far as I can tell, there isn't any residue that won't blow away with compressed air. It certainly doesn't imbed into the pores of the metal like glass beads can. Also, one of the advantages is that there is less dust in the cabinet, so visibility is good.


    Kevin

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  4. oldroadie

    oldroadie Two wheel addict

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    Nice. I can recall sand leaving a fine skin of silica that shed paint like crazy, which totally defied the point of blasting and then primer for a solid base. In your case I’m thinking patina is better than paint.
  5. yokesman

    yokesman Long timer

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    pet walnut shell bedding, used in aviation for decades( walnut shell, ( the pet used n vibration machine for reloading)
  6. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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    Yes, walnut shells are good and gentle. They wear out quickly though, the plastic is supposed to last longer. Thank for the tip though.


    Kevin

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  7. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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    Here's the post-mortem on the front cylinder that seized on stage 4 of the 2018 Cannonball, then ran for 3,000 miles after that. As you would expect, the piston was pretty well cooked.

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    The cylinder had some scoring, but mostly it's just aluminum stuck to the cylinder wall. It would probably hone out and be useable.

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    And here's the smoking gun. A crack had formed between the threaded holes for the valve plugs. This caused a vacuum leak, especially once the engine warmed up and the crack opened up further.

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    This kind of cracking has been known to happen on these cylinders, usually believed to be caused by the original bronze valve plugs that expand at a different rate than the cast iron. I don't use the bronze plugs, but the cylinders did have bronze plugs in them when I got them.

    After the crack formed, the vacuum leak caused that cylinder to run lean and hot, and it seized. It seemed to happen all of sudden, not gradually. The engine was making really good power, then all of a sudden it was not, then it seized in a very short time. After I got it running again, I could see by the spark plugs that the front cylinder was running leaner than the rear. In fact, to get the front plug to read right I had to richen up the carb to the point that the rear plug would get black and sooty. It was a pretty clear indication of a vacuum leak on the front cylinder, but I wasn't able to find the leak with the equipment I had with me. It clearly was not at the intake manifold. A pressure test would have found it, if I could have done that. In the end, what I did to get me through the Cannonball was I went to a tractor supply store and found a hotter plug for the rear cylinder so it wouldn't foul, and ran the carb rich enough that the front plug looked right. You do the best you can with what you've got.

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    I'll probably braze that crack up, hone the cylinder out, and use it as a spare. It will be a tedious process due to the fine threads, but it's worth saving the cylinder.

    I'll try to get some pictures of my intake cam followers before I go on the road again. I'm really happy with the way they performed.




    Kevin


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  8. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    That was a heart breaking moment in the 2018. Finding the cause helps with the healing in more ways than one.
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  9. DJones

    DJones Been here awhile

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    Kevin,

    Try muriatic acid on the cylinder. Takes the aluminum off without honing. Leaves more meat on the bone. I had to remove a bunch of aluminum from my cylinder one night in 2016 when the aluminum dome gasket I was trying melted. It was everywhere. Podger sure bitched about the smell though. Hope all is well.
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  10. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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    Yep. Rich Rau told me the same thing. I'll give it a try. All is good with me Doug, how about you? Are you coming to the Fremont AMCA Meet? I've got a spare room if you need a place to stay.


    Kevin

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  11. fullmetalscooter

    fullmetalscooter Let me take this duck off

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    Someone took a the guts of and eletrical scooter and made this . Thought you would like it. I m guessing if it was production bike they would sell loads of them . Whom amoung us will not like to drive up on what seem like a real powerplus only to have everyone be shocked it wasn't .
    https://www.rideapart.com/articles/307913/flathead-powerplus-ebike-rile-up/

    On that note, I present to you the E-ndian – a 1916 Powerplus Flathead which, if it were actually a Powerplus Flathead, would have the brand faithful absolutely and thoroughly wadded up.

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    Good news: not only was no part of this bike ever an actual Indian, no part of this bike was ever actually a motorcycle. It's a ground-up custom build. The motor, which is hidden inside a 3D-printed housing to look like an internal combustion engine out of a 1916-era motorcycle, is in fact taken out of a BMW DTM e-scooter. A belt and pulleys connect the electric motor to the rear wheel and act as a rudimentary transmission. The frame is completely custom fabricated out of steel pipes. The “gas tank” is made from fiberglass and plastic plumbing tubes. There is a single front hydraulic brake (there is no rear brake) which was sourced from a mountain bike.

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    While the paint job is pretty fantastic, and the “E-ndian” on the tank gives it away, a casual glance might make you believe this bike is 100 or so years old. The owner and creator of this art piece is named Achilles; his shop is in Jesolo, Italy. His vision for this bike was not one of extreme performance, obviously. He set out to create a machine as art and he succeeded. It’s not an exact copy of the 1916 Indian since, as Achille says (translated roughly), “we did not want to pretend it was a real Indian Powerplus, and so we put the e-ndian on the tank and we redid the engine a bit differently, to put the worm in the head of the beholder.” I’ve never heard the saying before but it sounds very Italian and I love it.

    This build will never win any speed records, and by all accounts it’s kind of frightening to ride, but from a purely aesthetic point of view it’s a real stunner. The attention to detail, like the painted-on oil drips on the engine, are real showstoppers.

    Source: Motociclismo
  12. Airbrusher

    Airbrusher n00b

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    Hello
    New guy here.
    I am working on a full overhaul of a identical engine as yours. I have quickly seen through your thread, and do have a question regarding the oil pump drive. When installing the pump drive gear, isn't there any specific position to install the crank shaft drive gear and the pump driven gear? Can I just install them in any timing position?
  13. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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    Airbrusher,

    The timing of the oil pump gear to the crankshaft gear can be in any position.

    Kevin


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  14. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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  15. riggpigg

    riggpigg Known,but not famous Super Supporter

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    Kevin, I tried one of those fuel tank/tool caddy inventions in 2016. I spent the money to paint it up all sexy like. While I admit the general idea sounded great, it turned out to be a failure much like my entire 16 CB was. The gas tank has no vent, the gasket was not very good, gas leaked constantly until it ruined the fabulous paint job I had done to it......the latch springs/tension wires, while suitable to hold it closed in a static position, were inadequate to stand up to the vibrations of the road. Now granted, the Indian may well ride smoother, and certainly it will be slower, putting less strain on the unit thereby working fine for you, but I had to bungee it together after a period.......now that I think of it, as many times as I had to push this turd up on the trailer, I could have strained the latches by pushing on box/tank to load the bike. Anyways, looks like you're progressing fine and I just wanted to give ya a shout out!!! TR #101

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  16. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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    “Certainly it will be slower?!” Ha! Did you think you were going to sneak that by me? Seriously though, thanks for taking the time to reply with your experience. I did notice the less than adequate seal, and I’ve already substituted a better one from McMaster Carr. It will be important to leave some air space in the can to allow for expansion, since there is no vent. Also, I plan to secure it with straps over the top, since the clips aren’t very substantial. We’ll see what happens. Anyway, thanks again.

    Kevin

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  17. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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  18. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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  19. Twotaildog

    Twotaildog Old Poop

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  20. fullmetalscooter

    fullmetalscooter Let me take this duck off

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    did you see the wheel through time facebook video they bought on unboxed a NOS 1940 Indian engine and they didn't know what engine was in the box . Wouldn't it be nice if that happened to pre 1920 Indian engine . I wonder what the oldest new stock motorcycle engine out in the wild that never been used yet . Cool what you are doing
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