Preemptive final drive parts gathering

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by lstuckey1, Aug 15, 2019 at 6:36 PM.

  1. lstuckey1

    lstuckey1 Pro Bench Racer (Retired)

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Oddometer:
    130
    Location:
    NE, Ohio
    My 2004 1150GS (39,000 miles) has just a tiny bit of play in the rear wheel. It’s barely perceptible but I don’t think it was there before. I change the lube every 3-4K miles when I change engine oil and I use 75W-90 full synth. The magnetic plug shows no chunks but there is a grey “dust” that accumulates on the magnet. Is this normal?
    I would like to purchase the bearing, seal and o-ring now in order to be ready in case of a failure while I’m on an upcoming trip. All of the dealer sites I’ve looked at pretty much tow the line with pricing. Is there a better priced source that still provides a quality product? I’m not opposed to spending money to get good parts, I just don’t want to spend more than necessary.
    Thanks all.
    #1
  2. Yellow Dog

    Yellow Dog Wanderer Supporter

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    Milton-freewater, OR
    Euromotoelectrics.com
    #2
  3. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    18,897
    Location:
    Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA. USA
    Your rear wheel play could be the swing arm bearings.
    #3
    bykemike likes this.
  4. 18415

    18415 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2018
    Oddometer:
    301
    Location:
    Danville Ca.
    Sounds like your crown bearing is worn. Mine went out on my hexhead at about 50k. Same symptoms. Play in the rear wheel and fine metallic particles in the oil. Try not to take it to the dealer. It’s a lot cheaper that way. But if you do, I recommend removing the FD first to save some money. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
    #4
  5. lkraus

    lkraus Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,008
    Location:
    Central Ohio
    Hands on the wheel around 9 and 3, a millimeter or so of play is normal when cold, should be gone when warm after a ride. You might want to look into the actual bearing replacement procedure. It's not simple and requires careful shimming. Not something I'd want to attempt myself on the road and would not expect to find an experienced rebuilder near wherever failure might occur. You might consider packaging a complete used FD (ebay, beemerboneyard.com) and leaving it with someone who can ship it to you if needed.
    #5
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  6. Huzband

    Huzband Team Dirt

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2006
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    Location:
    Cowford, Fl.
    @lkraus is correct about the 9 & 3 play, but that's not the one to be concerned about. It's 12 & 6 that needs to be checked. There should only be just the slightest bit of play, barely even enough to feel when cold. Any more than that and it should be replaced.

    As to the grey dust on the magnet, I'd say that's your sign it's wearing faster than it should.
    #6
  7. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,600
    Good Advice. It is what I did to give me piece of mind with my LT. I had a 6 mile reworked FD boxed with a tool or two I did not want to carry and left it with my sister. It would have cost a small fortune to get to me but I would not be stuck.

    Never needed it.
    #7
  8. vagueout

    vagueout Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    sydney, east
    The first source of play in an 11xx rear wheel is almost always the FD pivot bearings, pissy tiny little overpriced things, but not a biggie to change, they are not a show stopper, can ride any distance with some play, they won't collapse before you get home. If your problem is the pivot bearings forum member Mothfullofflake makes an aftermarket bushing replacement for the pivot bearings he calls them "Nushings" due to being a bush made from Nylatron. I have a set of these tucked away for the next time the pivot bearings wear out on my 1150. Re the "big bearing" in the final drive, strangely BMW dealers whether official or independent seem to have the best price, it is a very hard bearing to correctly source at bearing shop. From my own experience i'd be suspecting the pivot bearings are your #1 suspect.:*sip*
    #8