Preemptive final drive parts gathering

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by lstuckey1, Aug 15, 2019.

  1. lstuckey1

    lstuckey1 Pro Bench Racer (Retired)

    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Oddometer:
    135
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    NE, Ohio
    My 2004 1150GS (39,000 miles) has just a tiny bit of play in the rear wheel. It’s barely perceptible but I don’t think it was there before. I change the lube every 3-4K miles when I change engine oil and I use 75W-90 full synth. The magnetic plug shows no chunks but there is a grey “dust” that accumulates on the magnet. Is this normal?
    I would like to purchase the bearing, seal and o-ring now in order to be ready in case of a failure while I’m on an upcoming trip. All of the dealer sites I’ve looked at pretty much tow the line with pricing. Is there a better priced source that still provides a quality product? I’m not opposed to spending money to get good parts, I just don’t want to spend more than necessary.
    Thanks all.
    #1
  2. Yellow Dog

    Yellow Dog Wanderer Supporter

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    Euromotoelectrics.com
    #2
  3. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

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    Your rear wheel play could be the swing arm bearings.
    #3
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  4. 18415

    18415 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Sounds like your crown bearing is worn. Mine went out on my hexhead at about 50k. Same symptoms. Play in the rear wheel and fine metallic particles in the oil. Try not to take it to the dealer. It’s a lot cheaper that way. But if you do, I recommend removing the FD first to save some money. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
    #4
  5. lkraus

    lkraus Long timer

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    Hands on the wheel around 9 and 3, a millimeter or so of play is normal when cold, should be gone when warm after a ride. You might want to look into the actual bearing replacement procedure. It's not simple and requires careful shimming. Not something I'd want to attempt myself on the road and would not expect to find an experienced rebuilder near wherever failure might occur. You might consider packaging a complete used FD (ebay, beemerboneyard.com) and leaving it with someone who can ship it to you if needed.
    #5
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  6. Huzband

    Huzband Team Dirt

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    @lkraus is correct about the 9 & 3 play, but that's not the one to be concerned about. It's 12 & 6 that needs to be checked. There should only be just the slightest bit of play, barely even enough to feel when cold. Any more than that and it should be replaced.

    As to the grey dust on the magnet, I'd say that's your sign it's wearing faster than it should.
    #6
  7. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    Good Advice. It is what I did to give me piece of mind with my LT. I had a 6 mile reworked FD boxed with a tool or two I did not want to carry and left it with my sister. It would have cost a small fortune to get to me but I would not be stuck.

    Never needed it.
    #7
  8. vagueout

    vagueout Long timer

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    The first source of play in an 11xx rear wheel is almost always the FD pivot bearings, pissy tiny little overpriced things, but not a biggie to change, they are not a show stopper, can ride any distance with some play, they won't collapse before you get home. If your problem is the pivot bearings forum member Mothfullofflake makes an aftermarket bushing replacement for the pivot bearings he calls them "Nushings" due to being a bush made from Nylatron. I have a set of these tucked away for the next time the pivot bearings wear out on my 1150. Re the "big bearing" in the final drive, strangely BMW dealers whether official or independent seem to have the best price, it is a very hard bearing to correctly source at bearing shop. From my own experience i'd be suspecting the pivot bearings are your #1 suspect.:*sip*
    #8
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  9. Yellow Dog

    Yellow Dog Wanderer Supporter

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    The nushings work great for a lot less than the bearings. I bought the BBB, seal, and o-ring from euromotoelectrics and the grand total was $20 less than the BBB alone from the dealer sites. Same brand that my bmw dealer has. 99 instead of 156-161.
    #9
  10. BluByU

    BluByU Long timer Supporter

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    Love this thread: I was worried about a possible big bearing failure having felt a bit of play in the rear wheel on a routine service. Ya that was a long time back, still have the bearing, seal and O ring in a send to me box on the shelf. Although I got to admit I ride the 08 HEX a lot more than my 04 GSA :-)
    #10
  11. gonzomup

    gonzomup ChainGang Recidivist Supporter

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    Check it agin with the rear brake applied firmly. Movement with the rear brake applied points at the pivot bearings. No movement when the rear brake is applied points at the FD bearing. Easy check, virtually foolproof diagnosis on the 11xx bikes.

    For what it’s worth, I think Nushings are a good option here. I keep almost everything on my bike stock but this is one of the rare exceptions where an aftermarket solution seems more appropriate.
    #11
  12. vagueout

    vagueout Long timer

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    When you say the "swingarm bearings" you do mean the Pivot Bearings??:*sip*
    #12
  13. gonzomup

    gonzomup ChainGang Recidivist Supporter

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    Yes, sorry about the ambiguity. Clarified my original post.
    #13
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  14. ragtoplvr

    ragtoplvr Long timer

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    In my opinion the crown bearing is the correct size, but it has no safety margin. Anything that adds more load, like a passenger or incorrect factory shimming or in my case, slight oversize of the hub with ring gear will cause failure. Small wire solder may be used to check the clearance. The procedure is on this site somewhere. In my case my hub was oversize but my shimming was correct. I sanded down the hub and then rode over 100 K miles without additional problems.

    It is a pretty easy repair.

    The Hub pivot bearings are easy too. I cleaned my new ones and repacked with silicone bearing grease(Krytox) until there were no spaces to hold air in the cage. Then I installed them and filled the inside recess with additional grease to keep out water. This was successful.

    Rod
    #14