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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by madrider5150, Nov 7, 2016.
Began teardown, again. Will be checking rods for play, already checked primary, no obvious issues.
DUDE!!! The bullshit you been dealing with on that bike is incredible
I had 20k trouble free miles but now the hits just keep coming. Actually I should have diagnosed it better before the last teardown but just didn't cross my mind to be a bottom end problem.
With the S&S lifters, are they conventional lifters, or the version with travel limiters? If they have travel limiters, it's an entirely(and very important to follow exactly) procedure for adjusting them.
No I didnt do the HL2T, just standard premium version.
So I believe this is the problem here..
Hard to tell, but is that side to side sliding on the pin? Or up/down on the pin. Seems a bit much either way.
how’s it compare to the rear jug?
If you split the cases, you goin for a 4” striker crank and really make some wild power?
Its side to side so I think that means flywheel spread? Rear is noticeably tighter which we had pinpointed the noise to front cylinder. I think the plan will be taking bottom end to hammer for 08 buell xb crank conversion. Don't want crazy power just bulletproof reliability at this point. I may go to n4 cams while I'm at it though, be 80 horse maybe headwork cams and 1250..
flywheels could be spread, yeah.
if I was splitting cases I’d be goin stroker FOR SURE! Haha
I think that's a domino effect adding to price though..
Probably. Can they just build the stock crank, true it up, new rod bearings, weld the pin, etc etc?
Damn, that really sucks.
Itd be around 700 for darkhorse to rebuild and I feel like for the amount of work I want a more significant upgrade which the buell crank is. Not excited about the same thing that only lasted 30k miles..
I'm happy to confirm the problem and have a course of action at this point at least
For sure. Dark Horse has a great reputation when it comes to H-D bottom ends. That's who I'd turn to if need be, as well.
the Xb plan is a good solid way to go, I’d get hammers advice on the least expensive way to get some power while you are there. Maybe a better way to say if is the most efficient use of money. Either way I believe they will tell you to go with the stage one headwork, I forget what they call it, either 560 or n4 cams and call it a day with good breather and exhaust.
The stroker route is lined with hidden expenses, and a chance for unseen issues. If your sending the bottom end to hammer you could ask about having the cases bored for the 88” BB kit. They do a lot of those and could walk you through the expense, but it is more expensive than just the kit. You end up with new intake system to feed the bb and the need for clutch up grades as well. I think your right at fixing what you have. The 1250-1275 kit is a nice upgrade and can help put compression in the perfect range for what ever cam you choose.
I had already sent them the heads had stage 1 "impact," headwork done. So where Im at is 5-10 horse deficit with W cams so will likely go ahead and do andrews n4 while everything is down. According to Dan, not much more can be done in stock S model trim as the timing curve is an unknown on this bike and even with aftermarket ignition cannot be timed correctly. If enough headwork and increased compression is added it would be necessary to revert the bike back to single plug per cylinder and standard ignition which is something I dont want to do.
Hidden costs is exactly what I want to avoid, Ill already be approaching 2K for crankwork and cams, maybe upgrade the oil pump as well. I also keep thinking of other stuff Id want to do while the engine is out- powdercoat frame etc.
Cams and 1275 Kit Together - When you combine cams with a 1275 kit, you can get some impressive gains, even without porting your heads. Take a look at this chart:
Same bike, with the same stock EFI 1200 heads as used in the prior charts. But in this chart, we both swapped in a set of JACKHAMMER 570 cams and a flat top 1275 kit (always run flat tops with the 570 cams, never run a domed piston). Look at that gain! And we lost no power anywhere in the rpm range at all. The gains begin early and just keep right on growing!
This is a nice set up and simular to what I did. My bike was a 2000 model sport and hammer did the impact headwork with modern springs and 7mm valves and then matched the chambers to match their reverse dome pistons and set the compression up with the 570 hammer cams. The timing was retarded buy rotating the timing cup to pull a couple of degrees out. I did all of this under Aaron’s advice and it worked very well.
edit: Aaron could pull up my build sheet if you were curious. John Ogden in Arkansas should get ya the build sheet.
Interesting I did want to go big valves and upgrade springs figured if I'm sending them in go big but yeah I was told no go with S model..
I'll bring up your build with them before buying cams, jackhammer don't give up low end like n4 it seems
Here’s a read for ya. It’s the 04 up with better heads than ours, but still good info.