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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by madrider5150, Nov 7, 2016.
EDM is basically freakin lasers man
Electrical discharge machining, interesting, Ive only known that acronym for terrible music
I got a guy. If you don’t wanna fuck it up, or can’t get it out, let me know, he’ll turn it out in a day. You can ship to me and I’ll take it there, and pick it up. Or you can probably ship directly to him, just not sure if he does shipping or not.
I appreciate that, dont suppose you know a ball park figure for that? At this point Im considering upgrading the heads to 04+ or buell XB or sending mine to hammer for lmpact service. Just depends how much Ill spend to get these heads working properly again. I used to have a buell thunderbolt that put out 90-100 hp, damn was that thing fun! Some upgraded heads should get me close I think.
It’s usually about $40-60 a hole.
As for having the heads done. If you did the basic 1250 swap, doing the head work usually requires different pistons, so call hammer on that to make sure you’re not throwing good money after bad etc
That's pretty reasonable.
Hammer site said about the 04+ heads could be used with flat top pistons, just lower compression or something but I'd make sure. This has been a very expensive learning experience haha
The best learning experiences are the most expensive
If you are going the Buell route, change the whole top end. Don't forget that half the magic is the cams.
I think that'll wait for another time. Im going to see how well the bike does with my suspension mods before I stick that much more in for new heads and cams. I defaulted to an expert and was able to get the bolt removed and helicoiled for about $50, really shouldnt have tried to drill it anyway, I suck at tedious tasks like that. I am glad I removed the head myself though, feel like I learned a decent bit about my engine.
Im also having the head cleaned up again, bead blasted, guides checked and new seals in, might as well since its removed.
Glad you got it fixed. A lot of them end up as scrap metal.
Got my head back, stud fixed and all cleaned up, installed now. Billet pushrod bases to be installed next
I'm not sure if I red loctite that exhaust stud in or not..
Then gotta celebrate the little successes
I think loc-tite there won’t matter, the heat breaks it down.
Did anything get done to the valves etc? Or just the stud repair?
If any valve work, you concerned with the rear head?
Ive only put around 1k miles on since the heads were last cleaned up. I had it bead blasted, seats cleaned up, guides checked and new valve seals put in. That really shouldnt make a difference with that minimal amount of mileage should it? I really dont want to pull the rear head but will have to take the rockerboxes off anyway for the pushrod base.
The only thing I’d be skeptical of, is if the seats weren’t sealing or the guides in the front head checked out bad, if the machine shop gave you a basic clean bill of health, id put it back together and run it.
Yeah they said the guides were good and I had them replace the valve seals as precautionary. I had checked the intake valve previously and it was not leaking but looked like it had from the carbon build up and stains on the valve
New billet pushrod base installed and you can see the old one one the left and looking closely you can see where my mechanic put gasket maker down to stop a pushrod seal leak
Well the photos don't show it too much but the color is graphite- kinda metal flake gun metal gray color. I actually bought this when I thought my rear springs would be blue.. not going for played out murdered out look. Oh well, I'll let it cure then hit it with spraymax 2k, I've had good results with it before.