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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Prutser, Jul 23, 2013.
Yep....here's the memory jog
That's nice, but I'm almost broke..
Imagine.. beeing a student, having a bike and not working isn't too effective when talking about making money...
But, tell me, don't any of you have a spare set of projectors, used from another project or something similar laying arround and collecting dust that you would sell to a student with a bike with really crappy light for cheap ?
Thanks for everything! hehe!
Somewhere on my "things to do list" I had : lower the foot pegs.
After watching the Dakar and seeing all those guys (and a girl ) standing with their feet positioned much lower on their bikes compared to the pegs on my airhead It motivated me to start with the lowering.
The old position of the pegs was already lower than the stock pegs.
The Fastway foot pegs are great. But these were made for the 1200GS and they tilt a bit to far backwards for me.
After riding Dmaster's R65GS again a few weeks ago I realized that his foot peg position was much better than mine.
He made his tilted a bit more forwards.
So I started trying different positions on my bike. First I tried some SWT foot pegs from a bike I had within reach .
The SWT pegs are great but not for this bike. They are a bit to low for safety reasons for my use. I already have been kicked off the pegs by big rocks in Mongolia and I didn't like the feeling.
When I was standing on my bike with the SWT pegs I needed to lean much further forwards to reach the handle bars than with my own pegs. This was something that I didn't like that much.
Because I often have trouble keeping enough pressure on the front wheel going through fast corners in soft sand I wanted the pegs further forwards and not further back like the SWT's.
First I tried to find the right position.
This Is how it turned out at the end. Some people told me before that a few cm"s can make a big difference But I didn't expect that the handling of the bike would change that much. Luckily it got better instead of worse
Looks really good
X2 I would never sandblast a frame with any component on it that could be effected by grit.
Me too that why I took out the fork
All the time I have been riding my bike the WP48 was a pain in the $%#@!!!!!
Even after giving it a full service with new seals, bushings and good oil it sucked.
The only time it was ok was when I was riding through a rocky desert on high speed.
If those rocks would keep the fork moving it was a smooth ride but if you would hit one small rock on a for the rest smooth surface it would hurt your wrists big time.
Now I mounted a different fork and all the discomfort is gone
The fork is mounted in the old WP triples until my custom triples are finished.
DRZ? Were you able to adapt the wheel and brake from you WP setup to work or did you need to swap them too? Any hints on differences through the years for DRZ forks or are they all the same? DRZ triples wouldn't fit?
Yes a DRZ. I made a new bracket to use the same caliper.
The wheel is the same as before(G650X) I only needed a new wheel spacer and use lower bolts for the rotor.
There is only one good DRZ fork. You need the ones with re-bound and compression adjustment. Not the ones with pre-load adjustment.Those don't have a cartridge.
Nice work! Did you have to sleeve the triples and if so did you make any spares?
I made some sleeves to make them fit in my old triples. I didn't make spares. But If you like I could make a set for you.
Or you could use mine if I replaced the triples when they are ready.
what year, what model I probably got the wrong one
No, looks like I'm ok, there, you must mean just post-2002. but what size fork spring are you using? looks like stock it might be .44?
I take it your are still making some triples to suit the Airhead. How far along with this project are you.
I was wondereing how your existing triples worked with the DRZ fork in regard to them not being a gull wing design and the fork hitting the bottom triple on full compression. Have you had the forks re anodised or is trhat stock ? Mine are a goldish colour.
I hve just got a Warp 9 oversize rotor kit for my DRZ forks but havent tried it yet as I am busy on house renovations
What was the reason for the seat change ? I see it has a step in it now.
PS, the bike is to dirty or the forks are to clean
....and which fork is that?
The DRZ400E DRZ400S or DRZ400SM fork?
Depending on the year all three have adjustable compression and rebound.
I was recently looking for specs for a 2007 DRZ400s fork and if I remember correctly in 2007 all three had compression and rebound dampening.
Was there a DRZ400SM that had conventional forks, the only ones I have seen have USD forks.
I think the SM has always been USD, the S and E were conventional. Reading back over it I think Prutser is talking about the early S fork that had preload but did not have both compression and rebound. That fork was I think phased out in something like 2002. I know the later ones had both compression and rebound and I think the more current E versions now have high speed compression low speed compression and rebound.
I realy don't know what year or the type of drz the fork is from. When I look on E-bay for them i will always look at the top cap. That how I can see if it's the right one.
When I think of it I will make some pictures of the top cap.
Now I used a 5.17 spring but I might put a softer one in after the weekend.
The drawings are ready and the triples look great. I'm waiting for a machine thats not busy making other more needed parts. When those parts are done they will start to make them.
With the triples i'm using now my bike is a bit to high on the front. Now I can't put the fork trough the triple at all.
For now I made the sleeve that i'm using in the bottom triple a bit to short so the fork gaitor is a bit inside the triple.
Fully compressed the dust seal would touch the triple but with the realy long hydraulic stop of the drz fork I doubt that will ever happen. With the new triples i will shorten that hydraulic stop to have more usable travel.
And your right about the collor. I had them re-anodised.
The seat was changed after last years trip. I wanted to have something to sit against. So I shaped it a bit different and a mate of mine made me a new cover.
Some pictures of the different DRZ400 forks. These are all 49mm right side up forks. I still don't know on what model DRZ or the years the forks are used on.
The first fork: with pre-load adjustment.(fork without a cartridge but does have compression adjustment on the bottom)Not the one to use for the best result.
The fork with re-bound adjustment on the top cap.(this is the fork to buy)
One specially for Jason RM fork with closed cartridge (very good for your race bike)
Picture of the bottom with the compression adjuster (which all the drz
forks have as far as I know)