Question about changing the flywheel

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ROMAD, Feb 14, 2020.

  1. ROMAD

    ROMAD Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    156
    Location:
    N.TX
    I have a 2009 F800GS and have sourced everything to swap the flywheel out with the newer style design (listed below). I have read the threads I could find and have seen the precautions and techniques that people used.

    One thing I am not sure of, how come the shop manual wants you to set things to #1 TDC just to change out the flywheel? Is it strictly so you can lock the crank in place with the crank holder tool or is there some other reason?

    Parts:
    ---------
    • New style flywheel
    • Crank shaft locking tool
    • MAPP gas torch
    • Flywheel puller (motion pro M22x1.5RH)
    • Loctite 648
    • side cover gasket
    #1
  2. dpike

    dpike BeeKeeper Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2015
    Oddometer:
    1,819
    Location:
    New Jersey
    beer.
    you forgot beer.

    from what i could tell from doing mine it's just to lock it. it took more heat and more force than i thought it would.

    are you replacing the stator as well or is this precautionary ?
    #2
    ROMAD likes this.
  3. ROMAD

    ROMAD Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    156
    Location:
    N.TX
    Oh there will be beer! The effort is precautionary for now, I only have a hair over 12K miles at the moment. I am planning to upgrade the R/R and stator soon as I can figure out how to make a bracket like you made for your R/R. As for the heat thing, I have worked with a lot of red or green high temp loctite and is the main reason I have a MAPP torch now, it will get things hot pretty quick. Based on the thickness of the material on the newer flywheel it looks like a good job for MAPP gas.

    I have been working my way through the bike since I got her last March and the flywheel is about the last thing on the factory update list I wanted to do. I have already replaced the steering bearings with SKF, the fuel pump control thing with a black one, the side stand assembly with a 2016, the rear wheel went to Woodys for the rear bearing machine work and fresh SKF bearings, Updated the sprocket carrier/cush drive to the 10mm bolt variant and replaced the front wheel bearings with SKF. Also updated all the spacers with the stainless ones from that guy in Germany. Probably wasn't all needed but the PO liked to clean with a pressure washer and I wanted to reset the clock on all the bearings/seals for peace of mind since the OEM steering and rear wheel bearings were badly notchy already.
    #3
    SnoDrtRider likes this.
  4. Motoriley

    Motoriley Still riding like crap after all these years.

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,979
    Location:
    Deepest darkest burbs of Montreal
    Those SS spacers are great. The aluminum wears so fast and then the seals are loose. Any concerns about the shock bolt? Be a good idea to check it at least.

    QUOTE="ROMAD, post: 39382971, member: 106618"]Oh there will be beer! The effort is precautionary for now, I only have a hair over 12K miles at the moment. I am planning to upgrade the R/R and stator soon as I can figure out how to make a bracket like you made for your R/R. As for the heat thing, I have worked with a lot of red or green high temp loctite and is the main reason I have a MAPP torch now, it will get things hot pretty quick. Based on the thickness of the material on the newer flywheel it looks like a good job for MAPP gas.

    I have been working my way through the bike since I got her last March and the flywheel is about the last thing on the factory update list I wanted to do. I have already replaced the steering bearings with SKF, the fuel pump control thing with a black one, the side stand assembly with a 2016, the rear wheel went to Woodys for the rear bearing machine work and fresh SKF bearings, Updated the sprocket carrier/cush drive to the 10mm bolt variant and replaced the front wheel bearings with SKF. Also updated all the spacers with the stainless ones from that guy in Germany. Probably wasn't all needed but the PO liked to clean with a pressure washer and I wanted to reset the clock on all the bearings/seals for peace of mind since the OEM steering and rear wheel bearings were badly notchy already.[/QUOTE]
    #4
  5. ROMAD

    ROMAD Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    156
    Location:
    N.TX
    Oh yeah, I've done the shock bolt and brace as well. I have actually done a lot to the bike since last March. Just wrapping up new shock and fork cartridges this weekend and then the seat goes to Renazco very soon. Probably do the flywheel while the seats out.
    #5