R 1100/1150 GS/RT/RS/R/S throttle body repair kit

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Dan Cãta, Oct 20, 2010.

  1. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    Sure, just did.

    Thanks,
    Dan.
  2. Bizzmark

    Bizzmark n00b

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    I just received and installed your kit (via BBY) on my rattling throttle bodies, and I still have a rattling issue. What's happening is, my throttle is - and has always been - tight when closed (idle), but will rattle more and more as you open the throttles. I had thought this kit would resolve the issue, as many people said it resolved theirs, but, well, see the following video:

    Anyone know why it's still doing this after installing the kit? FYI this is the left side with the TPS off, but that doesn't make a difference. Yes, I remembered the washer under the c-clip on the opposite side, and the 2 plastic bushings/washers for the spring. It's as if I just put my old TB spindle back in..
    Is the entire TB itself worn? Or will a new butterfly plate solve it?

    Forgive me if this has been addressed elsewhere. I'm a busy dad and my time is limited.
  3. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    Is that axial or radial play? Is the butterfly plate locked? Are the two M3 screws tighten?

    Dan.
  4. Bizzmark

    Bizzmark n00b

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    Axial, if I understand the term correctly. I'm pressing and pulling the pulley straight in and out. The plate screws are locked and tightened hard. This is exactly what it was doing before I took it apart. I used every part in your kit - bushings on both sides, o-ring, spindle, c-clip, my original washer under the clip, etc.
    edit: basically, when the throttle opens up, there is more and more axial play and the entire spindle can move back and forth more and more.
  5. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    OK, I watched the film again and you have axial play. Loosen the butterfly plate, pull the pulley o one side and tighten it back, it will fix your issue.

    Dan.
  6. Bizzmark

    Bizzmark n00b

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    Just tried that, loosening the plate and pulling pulley in either direction, and also centering it. No difference.
    If the spindle is supposed to be restricted from axial play by the butterfly plate, it almost seems as if the TB tube is oblong/ovular; ie. it looks like the butterfly plate doesn't fit snugly when rotated to WOT.
  7. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    That is exactly how it works. You have to loosen, pull, tighten it and then, the axial play will go away.
    The butterfly plate, as new, from factory, is not perfectly round, so my guess is that they are made trough punching a dye on a sheet of metal and not cut from a round bar on the lathe.

    Dan.
  8. Bizzmark

    Bizzmark n00b

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    Well, it's not going away by doing that. I've been considering adding an additional (or thicker) washer to resolve this. I didn't want to have to, but I think that's my only solution now. Perhaps a thin rubber o-ring or the old c-clip underneath..
  9. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    There is a washer under the c-clip, I think you already mounted that, right? So, if the spindle does not go towards the pulley because of the c-clip and washer, and it does not move away from the pulley because of the butterfly plate, I am not sure how you get all that side play...
    The trick is to tighten the butterfly plate while there is no axial play in the shaft, as you can press the spindle on the c-clip end.

    I am sure you will work it out in the end.

    Dan.
  10. Bizzmark

    Bizzmark n00b

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    I made some 'custom' shim washers out of copper crush washers, a hammer and flat bar. They started at ~0.80mm; one side required a ~0.56mm shim, the other ~0.43mm. These copper washers were in addition to the original ones from my TBs. See video below - at the end, observe the copper sandwiched between the c-clip and original washer. There is now zero perceptible axial play, even with the butterfly plate off, and with the plate on it opens and closes perfectly smoothly. It took a while to get them just the right thickness; you have to start too tight and work down from there. But I think it's worth it.

    I also decided to add just a drop of 2-part epoxy to the backs of the butterfly screws (on the nuts) because I was afraid of bending the spindles by hammering the backs of the screws as directed. I used 2-part clear epoxy because I've found that JB weld (et al.) tends to not stick to a lot of metals, soft epoxy shouldn't damage as much if it comes loose (I've never seen it come off anything), and a spot weld on something this tiny is out of the question. Picture below.

    I hope this helps anyone who might have the same issue.

    Thank you, Dan.

    http://prntscr.com/kmccuw
    [​IMG]

  11. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    Looks OK. I never suggest to bend the M3 ends, rather expand them by using a sharp chisel while having something on the other side to hold back, so that the shaft does not bend.

    Great job!

    Dan.
  12. EltonFingers

    EltonFingers n00b

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    Hi Dan, I hope you are well. My LHS TB on my R1100S needs a rebuild. please could you send me details to Elton.roupa@yahoo.com regarding how I can purchase your repair kit. im based in South Africa.
    thanks
  13. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    Yes! Email sent.

    Dan.
  14. Waru

    Waru n00b

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    I'd quite like to have a kit for RH side for my 2000 R850R. Could you drop me instructions on how to pay etc? Thanks.
  15. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    Sure, right away.

    Dan.
  16. Bizzmark

    Bizzmark n00b

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    Alright, so I got my TBs back on the bike, recalibrated them to sync @ 1100rpm by the stop screws, set the TPS to ~370mV at idle stops and calibrated it to the Motronic.. and it runs like ass. Surging like crazy - at least I assume it's surging, because I've never, ever heard this before - and idling so rough it won't even stay running. TBs are perfectly synced up to ~3500rpm. Any ideas?
  17. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    What bike is it? 1100, 1150?
    You say that you sync the bike at 1100 rpm, via the brass screws. Are the pulleys fully closed when you do this?

    Also, for the higher rpm's calibration, I usually do it at 2500 rpm, this way, the butterfly plates are opened enough to make a difference but no so much that they are not taken into consideration, like at WOT.
    Do you have the correct ccp for your setup?

    I can help you via PM to further get to fixing the bike.

    Dan.
  18. agenthonza

    agenthonza n00b

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    Hi,
    I have a little offtopic question.
    On throttle body at R1100 there is plastic cover attached on injector. R, RT, RS bikes have covers on both throttle bodies and GS version has only left cover. Any idea why cover is on left side and only on left side?
    Thanks.
  19. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    I think it is only for GS'es as an injector protection, my 1995 GS had them on both sides but on bikes with fairings, I did not see them as there are no rocks to protect from.

    Dan.
  20. agenthonza

    agenthonza n00b

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    Hi Dan,
    I do not agree with you. Most of R1100 R, RT, RS I've seen have both covers - real bikes on road and pictures on web (and both side covers are in parts catalogue too).
    On GS version - on all promotional photos I have seen, there is cover only on the left side. Part catalogue for GS says, that there is only left side cover too.
    Some GS people bought right side cover from R/RT/RS catalogue, that is compatible with GS (of course) - to make it symmetrical, but I think that GS never had right cover from factory. And I'm looging for any reason. Cover does not protect TPS and if it protects injector - why is not protected injector on the right side?