R100R mystic cafe build

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by pommie john, Mar 28, 2019.

  1. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    Thanks for that info. There's a place near me that would make a pair of discs to fit the BMW carriers so I wouldn't need to drill the Brembo discs. All more money of course :)

    I'll try it with the current discs and see how it works. If I want to use 320mm discs I can change the plates I made and the calipers will be a bit more upright.
    #21
  2. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    I'm in no rush to get this on the road, but I'm certainly going to trying things out and change them if it doesn't ride right. I noticed that the callipers are anodised, not painted, but I think I will paint them. I'm hoping for a charcoal metallic. Something unobtrusive as you suggest.
    #22
  3. Piggdekk

    Piggdekk love speed, hate rush

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    my "rush" to have a custom bike on the road is because it helps you debug it asap and spend the money on the right areas. That said I don't think you're going very radical, so there probably won't be much to debug, and you're probably much better than me in planning/desinging upfront!
    I would probably spend most of the money in getting the electrics sorted out and well hidden, including a neat LIFEPO battery hidden somewhere, great project, keep us posted!
    #23
  4. Kiwiabbo

    Kiwiabbo Long timer

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    You are always gonna have to make some compromise when putting old, new and mismatched stuff together. Making it neat and tidy is the key. Mock it up, work out if it’s the best way and try again. Went thru heaps of stuff each time. The big stuff is easy, it’s all the little stuff that seems to take all your time up. One reason I stuck with BMW gear in each part. K1 forks and R1200 front wheel. Only wheel spaces required.
    #24
  5. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    I’ve borrowed a tank from the world’s ugliest bike. It kinda works but there’s a big gap between the tank and seat. If I move the seat forward it has to go up at the same time and that exposes the subframe which I was trying to avoid. There’s too much space to fill with seat upholstery, I might look at moving the whole subframe but that means changing the mounting lugs.
    My original plan was a custom tank like on my race bike, but that’s a very expensive solution.

    Attached Files:

    #25
  6. robtg

    robtg Long timer

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    Extend the seat with sheet metal and bond and rivet in place.
    Upholstery will hide the extension and it will blend in.
    #26
  7. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    I'll look at that option. You can't really see in the pic, the frame rails are wider than the seat so the seat extension would have to flare out too. It might work.
    #27
  8. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    39C9F452-E039-41C8-8921-B8789B2891DF.jpeg I’ve nearly finished the subframe. I was going to use the original, but they’re really heavy. I guess they are made for two people and panniers and all the camping gear. Anyway, I’ve been trying to revive my welding skills and came up with this which is loads lighten than the original.
    #28
  9. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    94CBB6ED-7CB1-478B-AC40-EF5D4C4CAF3C.jpeg I’ve also found a cb750 tank that almost fits. It’s from a late 70s DOHC model. A little bit of tweaking and I think it will work. What I really want to do is get rid of that ugly fuel cap, but it’s in an odd shaped recess and I don’t think I want to use a couple of pounds of filler to fill it. Ideas welcome.
    #29
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  10. Kiwiabbo

    Kiwiabbo Long timer

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    Cut it out and weld in the top of a bmw flush mount tank.
    #30
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  11. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    It’s been slow progress but the subframe is finished and the seat properly mounted. The Honda fuel cap sits in an ugly recess with a big locking arm over the top. I have a neck welded on to take a classic monza cap and have filled the recess with filler. There’s been plenty of rubbing down and adding more filler.
    The shock has been rebuilt with the spring powder coated.

    Attached Files:

    #31
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  12. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    I’m slowly making progress. The gearbox plate is done and installed. I made a sketch ( it was nowhere near good enough to be described as an engineering drawing) and texted it to a guy who has a water jet cutter.

    I also found a nice tail light. It’s five leds in a row. My drilling skills were tested to the limit getting them all exactly lined up and the same distance apart. There’s not much fibreglass left between the lights so I hope it will not fracture in use.

    C8004355-DB49-4514-98C5-B1700DE4AFDD.jpeg 9344F903-48F2-44AC-ADA5-54628183079B.jpeg 50C9E0E7-1641-40C0-868E-71693D9042FC.jpeg B3E887FB-A9F5-4B1C-AAA6-286BA73951F6.jpeg
    #32
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  13. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    I've decided on a colour scheme and tested it on the mudguard. I've always like the Gulf Porsche blue but didn't want to copy the Gulf colours with the orange highlight. It's perfect spraying weather here in Australia. dry and warm but not too hot so that helped with the finish from a couple of rattle cans. IMG_1974.jpg



    I also finished another video. The chassis is about done, I just have to work out where to mount the battery and then it will be off for a coat or two of two-pack.

    #33
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  14. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    91834989-34EF-4F51-B5C8-25D1625580D1.jpeg D1846CBA-1FF4-49F1-B004-CE5ED9F24B34.jpeg E125330A-643C-4984-BFA4-46D0A5993F56.jpeg ADCBDFA1-7E73-4EF8-9CDC-01E5BAE56EBC.jpeg It’s been slow progress but I’m getting there. the tank and seat are painted, all done with rattle cans.​
    And I painted the engine satin black. VHT case paint has lasted well on my XL250 so hopefully it will last well here too. I just slotted the main engine parts together just to check I’m happy with the heads and front cover in alloy against the black block.
    the new pushrod tubes are from Keihin the UK. Advice from Jim Cray was that the Keihin tubes are accurately made and fit better than most on the market. He was right. They were dead easy to fit.
    #34
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  15. Kiwiabbo

    Kiwiabbo Long timer

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    Looking nice. That VHT paint seems to stick pretty good. Have used it a few times now. Like the colours.
    #35
  16. ME 109

    ME 109 Long timer

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    Not sure if that inlet valve is in the right hole, pj.
    I have some experience in that regard....
    #36
  17. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    I'm pretty sure it'll seat itself properly when I give it a few revs
    #37
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  18. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    Definitely coming together. The last thing to do before getting the frame painted is to sort out the exhaust. I was thinking about making my own 2:1 but I’m not sure I have the patience. I’ve made single pipes from mandrel bends before but a 2:1 is much harder.
    Also there’s not much room behind the front wheel with the shorter forks so the pipes will have to go straight back and join behind the engine.
    I have been avoiding spending too much money and I like the satisfaction of doing it yourself, but I think the exhaust might be beyond me. Does anyone know of a reasonably priced 2:1 that would fit here?

    The flatslide Mikunis fit nicely although they could have told me that they don’t come left and right handed.

    E7AD0E35-F9C7-4DDC-B99F-A03DC3EC716A.jpeg 95FBD385-FB34-4488-8DDD-4DB35E20A44A.jpeg C1EE163D-AF18-4373-A003-24AE9DB6E9DA.jpeg
    #38
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  19. Kiwiabbo

    Kiwiabbo Long timer

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    B59AEC2F-E622-43F9-9105-6298CE9D2AA5.jpeg Just been thru that job....
    #39
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  20. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    #40