R1150 GSA 2004 Clutch Slave Cylinder replacement- PICs

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by acupuncture4u, Jun 7, 2008.

  1. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    It's arguably good practice with brakes, but clutches go full-stroke all the time so it's not really a concern.
    #61
  2. Y E T I

    Y E T I Unpossible

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    Does anyone know if there's a way to get the pictures back for this thread? That would be very helpful. :thumb
    #62
  3. Ravenslair

    Ravenslair Been here awhile

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    Archive.org does not have them cached. Maybe the OP still has them locally. I would be happy to host them if they do. The OP's Smugmug page is no longer active either. I sent an email and message to the OP to inquire.
    #63
  4. Y E T I

    Y E T I Unpossible

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    I just sent him a PM and offered to host them myself if he still has them. He was last on in June, so hopefully he is still around and has them.

    **fingers crossed**
    #64
  5. Ravenslair

    Ravenslair Been here awhile

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    He no longer has them and suggested I contact Smugmug. Looks like they are gone for good at this point.
    #65
  6. Scott_PDX

    Scott_PDX Leisure Engineer Supporter

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    Bummer. I could use these pictures.
    #66
  7. sykospain

    sykospain Been here awhile Supporter

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    Just found your instructions list posted last year on how to replace the slave cylinder.
    This Autumn I'm planning to install a hub spacer on my 2004 Rockster's friction plate - Esmir's sourcing some more at last - and also do the same job on the 2004 GS of my pal Mo in Spain.
    Your slave cylinder instructions will be most welcome when we set-to, but unfortunately the pictures that you posted with the how-to list seem to be not there...they'd be a great help too.
    Regards in anticipation,
    ALAN in s.e. Spain
    #67
  8. KnuckleDown

    KnuckleDown Been here awhile

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    Gents

    I'm a noob to the BMW. Would like to change out the clutch line and clutch slave cylinder on an 01 R1150GS. I have reviewed the slave cylinder directions on the post about doing this on the 04 R1150GS but do not see any guidance on removing the clutch hydraulic line. With the exception of the last post. Any pictures out there of this action?
    #68
  9. Dan Cãta

    Dan Cãta Long timer Supporter

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    It is pretty straight forward once you get the slave pump out and you also have the tank off the bike.

    Always use new copper washers where needed. Do not even think about reusing the old ones, you will have to work on the bike again. Tighten the screws at correct Nm rating, as in the manual.

    Dan.
    #69
  10. KnuckleDown

    KnuckleDown Been here awhile

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    Dan-

    Thanks, do I have to remove the rear suspenson and fuse box or can I just pull the rear brake and wheel to accomplish this? How do I fish the new clutch line up from the slave cylinder back to the master cylinder?
    #70
  11. NoiZboy

    NoiZboy Dirt to Track and Back Again

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    I just did this on my bike back in July.

    I don't think you HAVE to remove the rear suspension, but I was also doing a spline lube and so removed the suspension anyway to pull the transmission off. I'm sure having the suspension out of the way made the clutch slave easier to access. I think at the very least you'll need to get it off the swingarm and push it back.

    But if you're also changing the line, I suspect you'll have to tilt the rear frame up anyway, at least a little bit, to get the air box sufficiently out of the way to install the new line (see below). You have to release the rear suspension from the swingarm to tilt the frame up, at which point it's just one more bolt to remove it completely and have it out of the way.

    The fuse box doesn't really "remove" with the way the wiring harness is laid out. It's meant to lift up when you tilt the rear frame.

    The clutch line itself runs along the left-hand side of the frame, and then passes across the top of the transmission, just under the air box, to get over to the clutch slave. In order to access the line's pathway from the bars, you need only remove the tank and air intake snorkel. To get the line between the air box and transmission and to torque the banjo bolts at the clutch slave, however, I think you're going to have to disconnect the air box from the frame and throttle bodies and get the frame tilted up at least far enough so that you can move the air box upward. That will make some room to move the line into position and wrench it down properly.

    That said I had the rear frame tilted all the way up and the air box completely out for other reasons, so others will have to confirm whether/to what degree tilting up the frame is strictly necessary.
    #71
  12. KnuckleDown

    KnuckleDown Been here awhile

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    Gents, I have the dreaded slave cylinder issue on the 01 R1150GS I just purchased. I have removed the slave cylinder following the instructions in this post (removing rear wheel, rear shock, gas tank, exhaust and air intake). I'm ready to install the new slave cylinder and hydraulic line have some questions: how do I fish the new hydraulic line between the air box and the transmission; what is the best way to clean the spot where the old slave cylinder was; can the old slave cylinder be rebuilt for a spare; and what is the best technique to modify a weep hole into the new slave cylinder or slave cylinder gasket to prevent this from occurring again in the future - preferably something that doesent let water into the system.
    #72
  13. YesRush

    YesRush Long timer

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    #73
  14. KnuckleDown

    KnuckleDown Been here awhile

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    Ended up buying a brand new slave cylinder. When I removed the old one there was no felt in there that I could find. From what I read on adv rider, there is supposed to be a felt thing that wraps around the push rod to soak up hydraulic fluid if it leaks. One came with the new slave but I can't see how it fits it there. Any suggestions?
    #74
  15. Steptoe

    Steptoe steptoe

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    Not all clutch pushrods are the same, they changed the design.

    Some have an indent for the felt, some don't. And the felt doesn't stop any of the gearbox oil/clutch fluid if the rear seal leaks.
    And from my experience it's the gearbox oil that is most likely to leak onto the clutch.
    #75
  16. KnuckleDown

    KnuckleDown Been here awhile

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    Steptoe, thanks. Mile looks like the one pictured in earlier in this post. I just talked to the the local shop and they told me to pull the rod and see if it was machined for the felt. I can't seem to get the rod out. Should it easily pull out or do I have to remove the back of the gear box to get it out?
    #76
  17. YesRush

    YesRush Long timer

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    The slave cyl is the only thing that holds the rod in.Felt will only have a tiny bit of resistance,if any while removing rod.
    #77
  18. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    Usually the pushrod is very stuck to the clutch spring (in front). You may need to pull on it pretty hard.
    #78
  19. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    I've seen where the clutch rod has a lip worn into it from the ID of the input shaft. I'm talking about the clutch end of the rod, not the slave cylinder end. The lip gets worn into the clutch rod as a result of input shaft bearing failure. If the rod has a lip worn into it, then the lip catches on the ID of the input shaft, and it will need more than a little persuasion to remove the rod.


    <BR>
    #79
  20. legasea

    legasea Ape on wheels

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    #80