R1150 issues

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by carknut, Sep 13, 2018 at 7:12 AM.

  1. carknut

    carknut Been here awhile

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    where the meth meets the sand.
    Forgive me if you have followed my plight down in Road Warriors but I am about ready to part this beast out. Any help would be appreciated.

    The story goes like this...

    About a month ago I filled the tank and took the bike on a 70 mile evening ride. No trouble at all on that ride. The very next time I tried to start it 2 days later it wouldn't start and idle. The bike would crank fine, but only start with the throttle cracked open (like a loaded up 2 stroke) if you let the throttle close it will just bog down and die.
    Things I have checked and replaced are:
    Verified throttle cables are in their seats.
    Fuel filter and all lines in tank.
    checked the operation of fuel pump.
    pulled injectors to verify they are pulsing.
    pulled and grounded plugs to verify spark.
    New plugs installed.
    checked HES, I did eventually replace it with a brand new bosch.
    cleaned airbox and filter. verified there were no obstructions.
    pulled cat and exhaust to make sure there were no obstructions. ( I have a young son)
    verified battery voltage at 13.4 (odyssey AGM)
    pulled fuse 5 and reset motech.

    With all this the bike drips fuel out of the exhaust junctions. while trying to start Not sure if that means its overfueling or if the multiple attempts to start have just filled the engine. I am at a loss, and am about to part the thing out I'm so frustrated. I have no dealer within 4 hours and no gs911.
    #1
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  2. naruse

    naruse Been here awhile

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    Hello carknut,

    I would guess the fuel pump primes. But does it prime with the correct pressure?.

    One of the ways to see if the HES sensor is failing is if when you start the bike the tachometer goes crazy.

    Ijust a couple of ideas. I've subscribed to this thread to see what does the adv rider knowledge comes up with
    #2
  3. carknut

    carknut Been here awhile

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    Yes the pump primes, and with the key on you can turn the rear wheel in gear to hear it prime again. It is definitely fuel rich. I just don't know why.
    #3
  4. JoeMongo

    JoeMongo ¿Por dónde?

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    Check TB balance. Large new discrepancy may indicate one or more broken throttle cable strands or just plugged idle orifices under the large brass screws.
    When was the last throttle cable change? They have a tendency to break strands where they bend the most, down near the TBs. I've seen broken strands at less than 24K miles.

    Perhaps pull the LBS and clean them and their orifices. Reinstall and reset idle and balance TBs just off of idle.

    It sounds like your problem is down in low RPMs, near idle. Is that correct? Does it run smooth at higher RPMs? Check TB balance there too, just for information.
    j.
    #4
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  5. Wandergives

    Wandergives Been here awhile

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    TPS sensor?
    #5
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  6. carknut

    carknut Been here awhile

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    It will not idle at all. What is the voltage check for the TPS. Would you unplug and test? The strange thing is it was all of a sudden. Worked flawlessly, never ran right again.
    #6
  7. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

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    If fuel is coming out of the exhaust I would STOP trying to start it and drop the engine oil. You may have fuel in your oil. Then I’d pull the valve covers and see if everything jives there.
    #7
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  8. Jim H

    Jim H Been here awhile

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    carknut - before you check the TPS voltage at idle position, you should first check that both throttle body (TB) pulleys are returning to the hard stops at the inner ends of the butterfly shafts when the throttle grip is closed and the cold start lever is in the off position. Frayed wires within the throttle cable sleeves or misadjusted cable slack is not uncommon and this will often cause the throttle butterfly shaft pulleys to not return fully to the stops. This, of course, plays havoc with idle speed and balance and, if on the left side will throw the TPS way out of whack with what the Motronic ECU expects for the throttle position at idle. If the TB pulleys are returning to the hard stops with a fairly pronounced "clack", I would also recommend you check the BBS ports to ensure they are clean and that the o-ring seals on the big brass screws are intact. If the ports are dirty or the o-ring seals are bad, this too can alter air intake and interfere with ECU fueling control. In other words, check the easy stuff first before going after TPS setting.

    The TPS can easily get bumped and moved a bit out of its correct idle set position. The checking process is fairly easy but requires "tapping" the connector pins 1 and 4 (furthest forward and furthest back terminals). This can be done by inserting 2-3" narrow and thin "tinsels" into the female terminals and then re-connecting, trapping the "tinsels" between the male and female terminals or by "back tapping" these two terminals at the wire end of the connector. This is done by inserting 6-8" long, very thin solid wire at the back of the wire end connector (non-stranded insulated 20-22ga as used in thermostats and garage door opener remote operators and safety stop sensors). This will require skinning back the connectors' rubber weather sleeve (using rubbing alcohol as lubricant), removing about 1/2-5/8" of insulation from the ends of the test wire leads and carefully inserting the bare thin solid wire through the weather seals of terminals 1 and 4 at the back (wire end) of the connector until they touch the rear of the metal terminals. Connect the VOM to the outside ends of the test wires. With the ignition on and without starting, with the throttle closed at idle position and the cold start lever in the off position, the voltage between TPS terminals 1 and 4 should be .340 VDC (340mVdc). If it is off by more than 20-30mVDC you should readjust the TPS by loosening its 2 attachment screws and slowly rotating it until the correct idle position voltage is displayed on VOM. Be aware that when you re-tighten the attachment screws the voltage will likely change a bit so you may have to repeat this adjustment a number of times before the setting is correct.

    Good luck!
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  9. carknut

    carknut Been here awhile

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    All that seems like fine tune. My bike will not stay running unless you keep the revs at 4k+ and then it still will die in a matter of seconds. I know that the throttle bodies are grimy but I didn't want to mess with them much until I eliminated some other possible problems sources first. The airbox had some oil in it when I drained it. So I'm assuming that's why there is a build up of stuff in the Tb's. But what I don't understand is that this was an all of a sudden problem. One day it ran fine, two days later it wont stay running at all.
    #9
  10. PaulBarton

    PaulBarton Been here awhile

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    Is it possible you've got bad gas - you said you filled it up an then drove 70 miles without issue? After letting is sit overnight it wouldn't hold idle.

    How long had it sat before the fill-up and how much gas was in the tank at that point.
    #10
  11. Peels

    Peels Long timer

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    Still very interested in what you find this out to be.. its a 2002. same as mine, and your problem doesnt make sense to me.. :) Ive had your problem.. throttle cables.



    but you also say its fuel rich.....other thought is that HES. because if it "runs" you have fuel and spark, just too much or too little of one, or at wrong time.

    spark plug wire shorting somewhere? try running it with one wire off, see if it is the same... isolate it to a cylinder maybe.... ?
    #11
  12. Jim Moore

    Jim Moore Harsh and colorful

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    A guy had a problem with a temperature sensor recently. I wonder if you could disconnect it at the air box and take it out of the loop. I would also try disconnecting the O2 sensor. I don't think that's it, but it's pretty easy to do.
    #12
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  13. carknut

    carknut Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the reply. I replaced the HES with no improvement. I have too much fuel somehow. Both cylinders fire, both headers get hot. I will try the spark plug wire isolation.
    #13
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  14. carknut

    carknut Been here awhile

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    Thanks, I'll try that too. worth a shot.
    #14
  15. carknut

    carknut Been here awhile

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    Thats what Jim VonB suggested first. Made sense to me, I pumped out and refreshed the fuel. The gas worked fine in my mower. Gas wasn't it.
    #15
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  16. CrustyAPO

    CrustyAPO Long timer

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    Is the Fuel Pressure Regulator working properly ?
    #16
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  17. redwing51

    redwing51 Been here awhile

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    This is a twin spark engine? If it's a twin plug engine, is it possible that a stick coil is bad? I also might check for water in the fuel, or bad gas?
    #17
  18. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Been here awhile

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    Sometimes a small stone can get wedged in the groove of the throttle pulley, playing havoc with synchronisation.
    #18
  19. Peels

    Peels Long timer

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    no a 2002 is single coil. RARELY have coil problems, and when they go, the go all the way out.... his problem is so confusing. Ive never had one of the suggestions spoken of here or in the other thread not work...they either work or dont.


    vacuum problem? backed up charcoal canister....
    #19
  20. Gruesome

    Gruesome Alter Heizer

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    Something got sucked into the snorkel? Does it run without the air filter (or with the filter in place, but the air filter box open)?
    Advanced idle lever or throttle cable junction box stuck? (Somebody asked about both throttle levers returning to their stop with a 'clack' sound; I'm not sure I saw your answer.)
    I would triple check the right throttle cable seating at the throttle.
    Did you really dump out all the gas, or did you pour the same stuff back in after testing with your mower? Your mower might be less sensitive to bad gas.
    #20