R1150GS won't push past 3500 rpm

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by CoalCreek, Mar 20, 2019.

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  1. CoalCreek

    CoalCreek n00b

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    Hi All, I'm hoping you can help me troubleshoot a problem with my 2000 R1150GS. The bike won't push past 3500 rpm. When it hits about 3500 it just oscillates +/- 200 rpm pretty aggressively. I bought this bike as a project last year and it has always done this. I've replaced the in tank fuel lines and filter, cleaned the injectors, put in a new battery, and replaced the TPS. I'm coming to my wits' end trying to diagnose this, so I'm turning to people smarter than I.
    #1
  2. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    HES, maybe?
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  3. The Fabricator

    The Fabricator I didn't know it wasn't possible so I did it.

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    strobe the spark on both cylinders, see if one or both cut out. See if the advance is consistent or jumps advance-retard.
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  4. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

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    Make sure your throttle cables are seated in the injectors
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  5. NoiZboy

    NoiZboy Dirt to Track and Back Again

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    How is the idle? Is it smooth? Is the engine smooth up until 3500?
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  6. Jim Moore

    Jim Moore Souped-Up Weasel

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    I had the same problem on an R1100Rt years ago. Pulled my hair out. Turned out one of the fuses (or relays) had worked itself partially out of its slot. As certain rpms it lost contact and caused the engine to cut out. I spent a lot of money shotgunning parts. A mech at the dealer fixed it by pushing in the fuse with his thumb.
    #6
  7. Project Mayhem

    Project Mayhem Moto Aficionado Supporter

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    Off topic:
    Based on your screen name...are you located in Coal Creek Canyon?
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  8. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    Check out the thread Roger_04 post on how to check the inside of your tank hoses

    There is a u shaped hose in the tank that had all of the fuel pump pressure

    After time it splits and rupturs and limits the amount of fuel the pump can deliver to the fuel pressure regulator
    #8
  9. Bruincounselor

    Bruincounselor North Plains Drifter Supporter

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    He said he did the lines. It's either fuel or spark. I'd triple check fuses and spark first.
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  10. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    Sorry I didn’t catch all of that

    On my phone in another country
    I’ll go back quiet...
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  11. PaulRS

    PaulRS Dutch fool

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    Check fuel pump and regulator by T-ing in a manometer in the fuel press line.
    Take bike for a ride and monitor the gauge, if the bike starts to misbehave check for 3 bar.

    If the pressure drops, you either have a bad pump, regulator or electric problem to that pump.

    With the bike standing and gas it, does it rev?

    Paul.
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  12. Steve W.

    Steve W. Boxer Pilot

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    Pull out the cat code plug. Years ago I was experimenting with different jumper configurations and found one that the engine would not rev up. Just pull fuse 5 and the ccp, wait about 5 minutes and reinstall fuse 5. Then at ignition on with out start, twist the throttle to the stop at least 3 times to reset the tps. You can search for the cat code plug info, there is literally tons of info on the net. If it runs good without it, you can research exactly which jumper config is best for your bike. Cheers
    #12
  13. CoalCreek

    CoalCreek n00b

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    Thank you all for the input, it looks like I have my diagnostic list for the weekend:

    1. HES: I’ll likely follow this procedure: http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf
    2. Strobe the spark: The Fabricator, I’m not sure what you mean by this. Am I just pulling the plug, putting it back in the boot, holding it to the engine and seeing if it sparks?
    3. Check the throttle cables are seated
    4. Check fuses and relays
    5. Check fuel pump and regulator: PaulRS, the bike revs just fine until 3500.
    6. Pull cat code plug


    NoiZboy, the idle smooth and the engine sounds fine until 3500 when the oscillating occurs.

    Project Mayhem, I’m a little east of Coal Creek Canyon.


    Again, thank you all for the help!
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  14. Jim Moore

    Jim Moore Souped-Up Weasel

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    Weekend? What the hell? We want answers NOW!






    (j/k. Good luck with it. Let us know how it goes.)
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  15. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    Is this a single- or dual-spark 1150? If the latter, my first suggestion probably should have been to inspect the stick coils, rather than the (fine) wiring of the HES.

    With a fresh battery, presumably fully charged, and recently maintained fuel tank internals, spark would be my starting point. That the TPS was also recently replaced leads me further in the spark direction.

    Still, a blown hose inside of the tank may only show up at higher throttle positions.
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  16. Jim Moore

    Jim Moore Souped-Up Weasel

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    Y2K = Single spark.
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  17. Bruincounselor

    Bruincounselor North Plains Drifter Supporter

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    And the HES wiring is suspect on that vintage too.
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  18. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    Missed or forgot the bike's model year. Totally agree that inspecting the fine wires for the HES makes good sense.
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  19. The Fabricator

    The Fabricator I didn't know it wasn't possible so I did it.

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    'Strobe' means with a timing light. Point the light at the flywheel to watch the timing marks move [or not]. If you don't know what I mean [seems you don't] then this diagnostic procedure is not something you will understand and probably don't have the tools to perform [if you had a strobe light,[timing light?], you would know]. You will need to recruit a knowledgeable assistant.
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  20. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    If the bike has good spark on both cylinders, I'd not worry about the timing unless you'd messed with the HES immediately before these symptoms developed. As you've written that the fuel tank's internals were recently updated, I'd work from the assumption that fuel delivery is at least acceptable. To confirm that, you could measure the fuel return flow using the method discussed in several posts by @roger 04 rt.

    With decent - not even great - fuel delivery, trouble with spark seems a likely culprit to the rpm plateau or cut out around 3,500 rpm that you describe. That spark trouble could be due to abraded HES wires, a failing coil, or even bad spark plug wires. Those items are too expensive to just throw new parts onto the bike without some add'l diagnosis.
    #20
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