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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Feb 8, 2006.
Looks good!! Thanks for posting!
The grabs on the HF changer are not large enough for the 12 GSA rims! Very trying! Technique is everything! It is still much easier than trying it all by hand but mounting has to be done on the floor not on the changer it will just pop off!
I have a similar set up, works slick and easy but it took me over 2 hours the first time.
The adapters I have, that Kermit made, allow the dismounting, and mounting, of all BMW, and othrs, tires and rims.
Nice work by Kermit, and no damage to the rims.
Heres my front axle removal tool. Simular to others who gave me the idea, thanks heaps
I used a 1974 XJ12L Jaguar wheel nut for mine (the Jag now has 4 wheel nuts on one wheel instead of 5 ) and a suitable large nut welded onto it for my bikes 8" shifter to remove it with. Mint!
Iron Side Up
I think I am doing something stupid here.
Ive a tool to remove the front axel. The front axle turns about half a turn and goes solid again. Do I basically carry on turning as if I am unbolting it or when it goes 'slack' should the axle pull through?
Can't work this out...stuck!
Edit..bollocks its the welded together nuts on a bolt tool I am using that is moving, not the axel...doh!
Edit2...why is a beer such an essential tool? I couldnt break the bead on the rear, usually use the sidestand. Decided to go and buy a clamp (worked nice on front but too small for rear) (and reluctantly as I know I can do it with the sidestand). Had a beer, had another try. Pop...there it goes.
All you need is a 13/16 sparkplug tool. Even if you can't insert an extension from the normal side, get a long extension and insert it all the way through the axle.
Thanks for the details. I couldn't help but notice you are using a lift under the belly pan. I have a lift and have always been hesitant to using it because the belly pan is held on by 4 bolts and I didn't/don't know if the 4 points of contact would be adequate to support the weight of the bike.
Can you shed some light on this.
The belly pan (bash plate) is designed to protect the bike against impact. It can easily handle the upward pressure necessary to lift the front of the bike, I estimate less that 30 pound pressure. I can easily lift the bike off the bash plate by hand as the vast majority of the weight is on the centerstand.
PS Ignore the balancer, it never really worked well, and I now use either a www.marcparnes.com balancer, or a http://www.beemerbalancers.com/ unit.
I know this is an old post, but what are the blue things. (I'm guessing inline skate wheels) I want to make this balancer for all my bikes. It's a lot better set up than I have now....
You are correct. However, I would use wooden cones, gotten at Michael's, instead of the plastic ones. They moved around too much.
Better yet, pony up for a real balancer. I eventually did.
I ponied up for the Marc Parnes balancer, it works real nice for the front, don't plan on trying the rear for a few months. My problem is balance weight - I've got 79 Grams - it looks like lead mine tailings on the rim! It's balanced, but Jiminy Christmas!! I aligned the painted dots on the tire opposite of the heavy spot on the rim (which was opposite of the weights already on the rim), and just kept adding weights. Is this o.k.? Do I need a beer first?
I assume you remove the original weights?
If so, 79 grams is a LOT. You could leave it, or break the bead and rotate the tire on the rim 180° and try again. I have done this several times and invariably use considerably less weights.
I'll try that after I recieve my new Bead Breaker from Happy Trails - Then I'll have an opinion on that as well.
I have a gs1200 (2005) with spoke rims, What is the best rim protection strips to use when changing the tires? Thank karl
I use cut up quart oil bottles, they are flexible but still provide protection. Some people use clothes detergent bottles. If you use something too stiff it makes it a real pain to get tire irons where you want them.
I've used both detergent jugs and antifreeze jugs. I cut the strips about 2" wide and 5" long and that seemed fine. You'll figure out the first time that you use them if you wished that they were wider, narrower, shorter, or longer.
Since it was winter when I mounted the tires, I preheated both the old and new tires over a portable electric heater and they were nice and pliable.
I cut them up and leave the filler hole on so I can pull them out easier
Buddy of mine got a hold of my rims and neglected to use the detergent bottle strips that I cut out. Any ideas on touch-up paint (black, obviously) for the wheels?