R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    While not part of the BMW Service Schedule, it is a good idea to do this at the 6 or 12 K service. This is especially true if you do a lot of deep water crossings, ride in the rain often, or just put on a lot of miles. There have been cases of corrosion in the FD on several bikes, though not a large number by percentage, and even a failure of the FD splines on one bike due to corrosion. So, with that in mind, I decided to check a 14K mile and 6K mile GSw today. Here are the results, and general how-to:

    Pull the fender and wheel.

    [​IMG]

    Then remove the speed sensor and the brake caliper:

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    Then hang the caliper out of the way:

    [​IMG]

    Next remove the drain and fill plugs:

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    Then pull the bolt holding the Paralink bolt to the final drive:

    [​IMG]

    Be prepared for it to drop down as you pull the bolt. Sometimes it doesn't and you will have to pull the final drive down. Make sure you have a cookie sheet or tray below the FD. You want no more than 1" deep for a tray. No worries about the amount of fluid, it will be fine.

    Beware, if you have rusty splines, it can cause the driveshaft to stick to the final drive. If that happens you can pull the driveshaft out of the tras splines. This makes it difficult to get back in until you separate the FD splines from the driveshaft. See post 231 and a few more for details.

    [​IMG]

    Now you can see the condition of the splines, and the area inside the final drive. Both bikes looked exactly like this, and the 14K mile bike had a lot of off roading, presumably with water crossings. If you find oil in the swingarm, look up inside and see if there is an oil trail. If so, it will be the transmission output seal. If not, look at the dropped final drive for wet oil indicating a leaking final drive input seal.

    Time to lube the spline, even if they have lube. Use a Moly based lube like I did:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    No need to go nuts, a thin layer is fine.

    Once done, the fun part begins. You need to install the gaiter and mate the final drive to the driveshaft. There are two tricks to it. First, install a soft wire into the driveshaft U-joint like this to hold it in position:

    [​IMG]

    Second, leave off the gator and fit the final drive. You will see it can be tricky. Use the big final drive hole to rotate the final drive to mate the splines. I hold the FD through the hole and rotate it like to mate the. Once mated, gently drop it down allowing the final drive hole to rotate back. Install the gator on the FD side in the clips, then lift it back up. It may take a few tries.

    [​IMG]

    Once you get them to mate, install the Paralever bolt to hold it in place.

    Once in place, press the gator clips into the swingarm and make sure it fits correctly. It is pretty obvious:

    [​IMG]

    Once that is in place, install the paralever bolt all the way, then the final drive drain, then the speed sensor and brake caliper:

    [​IMG]
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    Then pop in 180ml of final drive gear oil.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Reinstall the wheel:
    [​IMG]

    Install the fender, if you have one (3Nm with medium strength loctite) and you are done.
    #1
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  2. yoshmann

    yoshmann Adventurer

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    Very nice, thanks for sharing!

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    #2
  3. ghostryder

    ghostryder Long timer Supporter

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    Thanks for sharing, I received my final drive fill tool the other day, clean and simple. Will make filling the FD much easier.
    #3
  4. rtb

    rtb Adventurer

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    Very nice Jim. Thanks for this. So what's your opinion of lubing the front splines of the driveshaft where it meets the transmission output?
    #4
  5. i386

    i386 Yes, I know it's supposed to rain today.

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    Thanks for posting.
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  6. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    The front splines are held in with a C-clip, so do not move. No real need to lube them. If you have over 40K miles, however, I would pull the shaft just to check the U-joints for notchiness or wear.
    #6
  7. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

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    As always, great contribution Jim! :thumb
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  8. Wolfgang55

    Wolfgang55 Long timer

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    First rate job in ''how to''

    Question: can the needle pivot bearings be lubed w/ a injector needle ?
    My thought is when you're in there that deep....unless these are not an issue.
    thanks
    w
    #8
  9. Hondo

    Hondo **********

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    Thanks for posting that up Jim! :clap
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  10. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Hi,

    Typically these are not an issue. Unfortunately they cannot be lubed without disassembly. Not that hard of a job though, especially when you have it this far apart. It is similar to the Hexhead/Camhead bearing service.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    I did a pictorial on it, but cant seem to find it.
    #10
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  11. bloggerblog

    bloggerblog Adventurer

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    Your instructions are clear and professional Jim. Although I am still at 1K miles, it's good to know what it takes to service my own bike.
    Much appreciated
    :happay
    #11
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  12. Byrdguy

    Byrdguy Long timer

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    Great job, Jim. Thanks for the writeup.
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  13. Cataract2

    Cataract2 Where to?

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    Are the Ujoints on the WC GS help in the clips? I recall on the older oil cooled GS that the caps were welded on. Looking at the picture you have about these ones don't appear to be.
    #13
  14. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Press fit and peened.

    [​IMG]

    So far, I have not heard of any failures, but time will tell.
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  15. pootle85

    pootle85 n00b

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    Great post and I am sure really most will find this useful.


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  16. kurien

    kurien adventurer

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    Another great post JVB!! Thanks.

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  17. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Glad I could help. I am going to make a few more of these I have been saving up on.
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  18. boxerbeat

    boxerbeat Adventurer

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    Thanks Jim!!


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  19. JR356

    JR356 Long timer

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    Great writeup and pics!

    Number of sources recommend removing fill plug first and then drain plug,no matter what you are draining.Your picture sequence is correct.
    You don't want to drain something and discover fill plug is stuck,misthreaded,etc and you are now stuck with a dry trans,FD.etc and no way to refill it.

    JR356
    #19
  20. BigGuy

    BigGuy Been here awhile

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    Thank you , good to know for a future service. I appreciate the time and effort you put into sharing your tips and knowledge.
    #20
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