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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.
Always good advice!
Another good practice is to clean off sand and dirt before you open up anything that is adversely affected by sand and dirt.
Not familiar with peened. I'm going to guess it's not welded, but even then it doesn't using clips like normal setups.
Excellent as always!
This is really good for reference. Thank you.
I was doing other works yesterday and I was wondering about the torque of the rear brake caliper to the final drive.
I was able to torque to 24nm the left bolt while the right bolt (when facing the FD) refuses to be torque as it kept spinning and spinning. (Already hand tighten before using torque wrench) Fearing being over tightened I stopped. But am i doing it right? Is that something behind (nut?) that i must hold?
Its the wet head. 2015.
Sounds like the threads for the bolt are gone. They are in the brake caliper itself. Pull it back out and have a look. You may need to helicoil it.
I dropped the final final drive to look at the splines good thing cause there was rust starting to form and no lube at all.I find that strange because the boot was replaced under warranty and you would think that the mechanic would of put some lube on the splines since he was working right there.Once cleaned up the splines look good with little noticeable wear but what I did find is that there is a small bit of notchiness on the u joint on the shaft side..... the spline side is real smooth in comparison.U Joints are not my specialty so how concerned should I be about this notchiness on one side of the u joint? Its a 2013 GSW with 25 K on the odometer.still have BMW warranty for a couple more months should I bring this to the attention of a BMW service center?
I dont think my problem if it is one is anywhere as severe as Dr Gregs.I,m feelling a slight notchiness on the shaft side of the u joint when moving it back and forth with my fingers the coupling side moves back and forth very smoothly . I,m wondering why theres a difference between the two?
Concerned enough that you complain to the dealer that you feel a vibration in the driveline. Let them check it. If it is bad, they should replace it under warranty. If not, you have it on record so if it goes out soon after warranty ends, you have a case.
Good advice Jim this may be an early sign of trouble on the way.
I am doing the 12,000 mile service on my 2014 r1200gs, and there is a tiny amount of oil in the swing arm with a trail from the transmission seal. It is such a small amount of oil that I am wondering whether I should replace the seal or leave it alone?
On further inspection, the trail seems to only make it halfway up the drive shaft.
I'm probably just going to clean up the tiny bit of oil and check it again over the winter.
I would clean it up and check it again on the next service. It is probably nothing, but it is worth watching.
Have a 2014 1200 GSW that I bought used (24,000 mi). The final drive and big service was done at 18,000 miles but I don't know if the final drive splines were checked or lubricated.
I want to check the splines and lube them (Moly 60 paste).
Do I have to drop the final drive gear oil to do this, or can I just remove the paralink bolt and separate the shaft?
You do not have to drain the FD lube to grease the splines, its a sealed unit.
Thanks Jet. I didn't think I had to.
When you swing down the final drive, gear oil will run out of the hole for the speed sensor. I'd plan on changing it or saving the spline lube until the oil change is due
Correct, you can't safely drop the FD without unplugging the speed sensor. When you do drop it, the speed sensor hole is almost straight down.