R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. MaxBimmer

    MaxBimmer Adventurer

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    Did you try tightening and loosening the parallever bolt? Mine was pretty stiff and when I first started to loosen it, it was real tight. I only loosened it about a third of a turn and then sprayed some penetrating/anti corrosion spray on the threads that were poking out of the right side of the driveshaft housing. I also sprayed the bolt everywhere else it goes through the driveshaft housing. I waited a little, then tightened the bolt back up. Then loosened it a half turn, then tightened it again. The sprayed some more. Then loosened up a full turn, then tightened again. My thinking was that I wouldn’t strip the head of the bolt if I did the tightening and loosening thing. It is a trick that works on screw heads. Some people say you should tighten a frozen screw before loosening it, just to break it free. That way if it does strip, it strips in the tightening direction, not the loosening direction. That might end up giving you a few more chances to loosen that stubborn screw or, in this case, the paralever bolt.
    Good luck...
  2. miker325

    miker325 Long timer

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    Some heat guns are more efficient than others. Could you sizzle spit on the bolt head at that 4 minute mark you mentioned?

    In this case, heat is your friend. BMW engineers must have snickered to themselves when they designed the thread locking compound they use at the factory to put these bikes together and the only way to defeat it is with plenty of heat. Red Loctite is as close a product as you're going to find in an auto parts store here in the US, and that has a melting point of 500 F. I've never had to get it that hot to loosen a bolt, but 250+ F seems to be a minimum in those kinds of applications. If you're heat gun won't get you there, a small propane torch aimed precisely in the middle of the bolt head will.

    Take a breath, heat the hell out of the bolt, and try again. Since you've already started to round out the Torx head, press hard on your socket while you try turning it. I also find if you use a longer wrench, like a small breaker bar, the application of torque is a bit more effective and may not round out the head as much. If the head is badly damaged, grab a friend so you can have one set of hands seating the Torx bit by pressing into the bolt as hard as you can and another set of hands just working the breaker bar.

    Good luck and let us know if this works.
  3. benjitzu

    benjitzu n00b

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    I did tighten it back up, add more heat, see how far it would loosen (about one full turn), add more heat, but it wouldn't go further than that. Tightened it back up all the way again. Repeated that process a few times but the torx bolt was taking a beating and I didn't want to push it any further.

    I haven't tried penetrating/anti-corrosion spray yet and will do so today. My fear is not just stripping the torx bolt head but damaging the threads of the bolt and slot (not sure the right word to use here) that would prevent a new bolt threading into the paralever.

    Thanks for the suggestions. I'll update after I try a few more things today...
  4. Boxerbreath

    Boxerbreath 2017.5 GS Black Storm

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    I got brave while doing my 6K service yesterday...I did the rear drive splines per Dr Jim's instructions.
    I will say I cursed Jim (under my breath) when I got to the "the fun part begins" part of re-inserting the rearend spline into driveshaft, but got 'er done.

    I was a little worried about if the position of the splines should line up as they came apart exactly.
    Hopefully that's not critical. (?)
    No rust at all, my shaft is painted black, but I will say there didn't seem to be much grease on the splines. I used the recommend (gray) grease from Beemerboneyard.

    I noticed the the boot showed a small pin hole only visible when it was stretched to the max, something fools like me might want to inspect closely when doing this procedure.
    Anyway, it's done.
  5. miker325

    miker325 Long timer

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    The rear u-joint and the final drive input shaft are not indexed, so no worries about how it went back together, it's fine as long as it just went back together. Hopefully you replaced the boot before it went back on? Those kinds of holes are what lets water get in and they generally only get worse with wear.
  6. Boxerbreath

    Boxerbreath 2017.5 GS Black Storm

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    Nope, did not, but will in the near future.
  7. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Did a follow-up FD clean/lube on an 18K miles 2016 GSA today. The splines were fine, lightly lubed still, but the lithium grease was pretty dry.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    By the way, no one is perfect. The original crush washer was crushed again by a second one when I neglected to remove the original 12K miles ago. :shog
    [​IMG]
  8. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    Tough to be human and make mistakes.
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  9. NoVa Rider

    NoVa Rider Long timer Supporter

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    I may or may not have contributed to that last photo. . .. :rofl:rofl:rofl
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  10. Fredericton

    Fredericton Adventurer

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    Jim VonBaden: Can I get your opinion? 2014 R1200GS with 40,000 miles, some off road. The universal joint is rusted on the outside but the spline itself still had some grease. Any cause for concern? I will clean up the spline and lube with moly grease. Should I do anything with the universal joint or shaft? Note that I had my boot replaced twice under warranty. Once due to a rip and once because it kept coming unseated.

    Thanks
    IMG_6343.JPG IMG_6344.JPG IMG_6346.JPG
  11. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    How far up the swing arm is it rusted? If so far that you can't tell, best to pull the shaft out. I would treat it first with rust killer, like this:
    [​IMG]

    Take care to not flood the converter around the rubber seals on the U-joints.

    Then clean the splines, then lube them. Overall you are likely fine if the U-joint is still smooth and not loose.
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  12. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    I still have to wonder if everyone did a service on this every 12K and sprayed everything down with like ACF50 or whatever if they would look this way 4 or 5 years down the road?

    I did mine at 6K and have a 12K coming soon and think I am going to break the top of the drive shaft and pull the whole thing. I will spray it down and clean what I can.

    Since rust begets rust, knocking it down and spraying with a lube/waterproof spray has to help the joints. I mean that is what we are after, saving the u joints from going bad. If we knock the rust off, spray and work the joints past what and how they normally work, it may stave off issues in later years. The surface rust is just a carrier to the joint destruction.
  13. Fredericton

    Fredericton Adventurer

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    Thanks Jim. Looking at it closer the rust goes all the way up the shaft but it is very superficial. The U-joint is smooth and tight. Should be OK.

    Attached Files:

  14. Swinefahrt

    Swinefahrt RooteR

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    From the comfort of my car of course, I’ve seen truck driveshafts that look pretty rusted but seldom have I seen a disabled truck with a broken shaft.
    The Opa, Fredericton and LAFS like this.
  15. Fredericton

    Fredericton Adventurer

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    Dumb question: There is a wire spring inside the boot. Does it go in the largest (front) bellow or the middle bellow? IMG_6348.JPG Mine was twisted so I'm not sure.
  16. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    Wonder why that is? Any driveshaft car or truck is hanging out in all the weather. I mean this one is sheltered from a lot of weather.
  17. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Rust on the shaft isn't that big a deal, rust in the splines is, and rust in the U-joints is too. Unfortunately it doesn't look like these U-joints are designed for prolonged exposure. Plus, rust migrates. Best to kill it when you can.
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  18. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    The driveshafts are exposed, so while they get wet, they also dry pretty fast once water is no longer hitting them. In en enclosed warm environment the shafts sit in the humid air of accumulated water trapped in the boot. rust is inevitable unless the water is kept ut. That is why a good seal on the boots on these is critical.
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  19. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    I am not positive, but I do know it is the one that it fits most snugly in.
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  20. Swinefahrt

    Swinefahrt RooteR

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    Absolutely, I agree! I don’t recall earlier boxer versions being this susceptible to rust.