R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    The earlier ones had a different boot configuration that allowed water to drain out. But, more importantly, seemed to seal better in the first place.
  2. turnerm

    turnerm Long timer

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    I agree. My 2008 GS which I had for 7 years never had rust in the splines, shaft or joints. And I had it in the northeast, near beaches, etc.
    My 2017 Rallye has significant rust on the splines and the drive nut and some on shaft surfaces. After only 1 year and 7k miles. Also, my spokes showed corrosion after only 6 months. What the hell are they making these out of? BMW makes Toyota truck frames look like they’re stainless.
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  3. turnerm

    turnerm Long timer

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    Is this product good for corrosion on spokes? I had some preliminary corrosion on the spokes of my GS and I would love to try other options.
    Does this in any way damage or diminish the strength of the spokes?
  4. browneye

    browneye PIN IT & BANG GEARS

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    Prepsol is a de-greaser, not a polish. The spokes are stainless, a good metal polish like Flitz or Mothers would be your go-to.
    Prep-sol is what the name says - a surface preparation solvent prior to painting. Also used by decal appliers, stripers. Makes a great tar remover as well as label/sticker adhesive.
  5. lewisjr1

    lewisjr1 Long timer Supporter

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    GS spokes have been stainless for a number of years, now. Here, for instance, are the part nos. for a 2013 model:

    03 36 31 7 664 595 SPOKE, FRONT STAINLESS STEEL - L=198MM 0.02 40 $4.46
    04 36 31 7 664 594 SPOKE, STAINLESS STEEL - L=186MM 0.02 40 $4.46

    What grade of stainless? I have no idea.

    If you live near the ocean, the regular fresh water cleaning + coating the spokes with wax or a tacky chemical might help. You obviously want something that won't fling off.

    The "rust convertor" come primer pictured in post #791 is probably not what you're looking for. The ACF50 mentioned in post #792 would probably help, but I'm not sure how long it would last on motorcycle metal in a somewhat salty environment.

    Me, I'd just shampoo and wax the wheels' spokes regularly.
  6. emidyl

    emidyl Been here awhile

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    that's shocking and shitty to hear, but not surprising? I read about a lot of early rust issues in the UK, but not so prevalent on this side of the pond?
    I have a '17GSA and it's so far been very good. Splines were in perfect shape and even came with lube, which we all know is not the norm, and zero rust to this point. Was purchased new April last year. Have also read of many with very thin painted frame surfaces. Mine feels like a very thick application, even in the stand area where many have noticed rusting first.
    I only superficially wash the bike maybe twice a year, mostly just wipe it down, and only used ACF50 a couple times going into last winter so nothing extra.
    Doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason with differing quality issues.
  7. dyg

    dyg dyg it Supporter

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    B7FBED5F-D1D2-42FC-9A4B-3A5DF52AA457.jpeg D25F45A9-9C90-46A4-8067-36496BDB6E95.jpeg 8733B1FD-D29A-4171-A697-DB276B0FBF3A.jpeg 5A589422-F09E-430E-AA4C-2B00045C5098.jpeg Pulled my driveshaft today at 16k. All good - very little rust; of course no lube at all on splines at either end. Having not pulled a driveshaft in 2 years since I sold my 08 GS and it took me a little longer than I would have liked. Had trouble getting the driveshaft back onto the transmission shaft as the shaft kind of goes on crooked initially when you feed the shaft up into the housing. Then getting the boot on there took a little time - make sure that you mark the rubber boot with something to ensure that it is going on the same way as it was originally as it can pivot as you try and get it to seat. Otherwise all good! Thanks Jim for your pictorial!!
  8. Ricky Scotland

    Ricky Scotland Adventurer

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    Just a quick update, I posted on here a few months ago regarding bad vibrations on a 2017 R1200gs. After nearly a year of BMW trying to fix this (new drive shaft, new crown bearing, updates to suspension electronics) and some thoughts from BMW on possible other fixes that never got done (injectors, tps, lamda sensors and engine mounts). BMW agreed to take the bike back. It turned out this was a lot less painful than I thought it would be and the upshot is I now have a brand new R1250GSA exclusive sitting in my garage.I Have to say BMW gave me an excellent deal in that I just paid about £800 for the 8000 miles I had done on the old bike before the problem reared it's head. My view on this is that you need to keep your dealer onside and go through the protracted process...and BMW will come through in the end. Thanks to Jim and anyone else who helped me by answering questions on here when I was trying to identify what the issue was....it turns out even BMW couldn't find out in the end !!!
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  9. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Yeah, very dry. That little rust on the splines is the real danger. Glad you took care of it now.
    dyg likes this.
  10. Bob S.

    Bob S. Overloaded and Underway!

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    I have a 2008 r 1200 gs. Will this tutorial work on it? If not is there a tutorial that would be more applicable?
    Thanks so much!
    Bob
  11. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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  12. AC12395

    AC12395 n00b

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    After reading the post (and given my luck), I decided to check mine last night after work. 2014 GS, 33k miles ...rust everywhere. FD is stuck to the driveshaft.

    This is what it looks like:
    DS 1.jpg DS 2.jpg
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  13. antariusjp

    antariusjp Large Title Here Supporter

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    Holy Moly.
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  14. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Since you are out of warranty, you can fix this yourself. Take a wedge chisel and put it between the end of the FD input shaft and the driveshaft and tap it firmly to break the two apart. On one I did it took a lot of very firm taps! Once apart, clean all the rust you can off, hit it with Rustoleum Rust Reformer on everything but the splines themselves. On the splines, wire brush as much rust off both surfaces as you can, then use a moly based paste an really lube it good on both surfaces. You can't over do it.

    Now to the cause, the boot. Check it very carefully for holes. If none, check for rubber that has deformed and gotten really soft. If so, replace it. BMW has an updated boot. Use Lithium grease to lube the mating surfaces and ensure they are tightly fit.
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  15. AC12395

    AC12395 n00b

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    Will do. Depending on how firm the "taps" are, I was planning on using the heat gun to assist. I'll check the boots when I get the FD off of the swingarm. Thanks!
  16. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    Curious to a bit more riding history.

    Did it see a lot of water crossings?

    Also curious as to the rubber inspection, as in if it is deformed/split?

    I bought this from Flea Bay.
    50 gm NBU 30 PTM Lubricating Assembly Grease/Spline for just sealing the boots. I did not have anything like white lithium grease at all and wanted to know what matched the BMW OEM sealer. This is/has been used as the spline lube also. It was 19.95. Again I bought it to seal the boots. I use Honda Moly 60 paste on the splines because that is what I have, and used in the past on the RT.

    On that thought, it sure does not look like there was anything sealing around those boots.

    So not only did they not lube the splines, the did not seal the boots either.

    Do as Jim says and you will get it done no worries. Cleaning and working whatever you can into those u joints. Clean is your friend so clean and work it a bit then use air from your compressor to get all the scale you can off and do it a few times. Wire brush, sand paper, wire wheel, whatever you got to clean that metal up.

    When I did mine on the GS at 8K or something it was dry as a bone no lube at all, but rust was very, very lite on the end of the splines to the FD. Also found out that the shaft is now painted or coated black.

    You got this.

    Then it is a matter of putting it somewhere on your maintenance list.


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  17. AC12395

    AC12395 n00b

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    Ride off road a good bit and in the rain, but I've never had any stream crossings.

    I didn't see any issue with the boots, but I'll inspect them closely tomorrow. Looking at the photos on this thread, one thing I did notice is that there was no grease sealing the boot.

    I'll get it knocked out this week.

    As for placing it on my maintenance list, I think I'll check it every 6k (can't hurt).
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  18. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Just beware of overheating the U-joints. You can cause the grease to get a little too liquid, and the seals expand, and lose the grease. I did it cold, and no damage. Firm is being nice. I beat the chisel in pretty hard with no damage.
  19. Daleah

    Daleah Long timer

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    my boot didn't have any holes, but it was installed with a kink at the edge on the inboard side. so i had some rust at 12k miles.
  20. BMWBOB51

    BMWBOB51 Going slower, but bench race faster :)

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    Looks like my 2014 when I first checked it at 20K mile, but came apart ok and the boot did have a crack in it. Cleaned it up best I could and piled on grease. No issues since at 65K miles