R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. LAFS

    LAFS Long timer

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    Thank you for letting us know how the bike has been used.

    I love Dawn dish washing soap. I used warm water and Dawn to wash and clean the rubber boots to inspect them. Then I sprayed them down with Surface Protection 303 that I use on all rubber and vinyl.

    Yes I am not sure where to put it on the maintenance list either. I am thinking every 12K but need to pull it completely to see the top joint and then make a decision. I been procrastinating as while not hard to do, it is challenging to get the top of the drive shaft back into place because of the cir clip on it, and it is at a odd angel. You just have to hold your tongue in just the right way, then that top will pop right on the splines :-)
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  2. Hammerdown77

    Hammerdown77 Long timer

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    Finally did this today as part of my 24k service.

    Bike is a 2016 GS, purchased brand new right out of the crate in April 2016. A few water crossings, but not many. Few times in the rain, but not a lot. Currently has 25,5k miles

    Driveshaft and splines looked brand new. Splines had lube on them. Driveshaft is painted black, rubber boot is the newer style with the wire reinforcement.

    Honestly, I probably could have skipped this whole thing, but I wanted to at least see what I had. I put a little more moly on the splines, put some white lithium on the rubber boot, and buttoned everything back up. 180ml final drive gear oil, job done.

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  3. scfrank

    scfrank Old farts riding club. Supporter

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    ^^^^^. Wish my 17 looked like that.
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  4. Hammerdown77

    Hammerdown77 Long timer

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    Did your '17 have the painted drive shaft and u-joints? Can't recall seeing it in an earlier post. I would have thought all of the post '16 bikes had those. I was surprised to see the moly paste on the splines, guess they had a spline lube guy on the assembly line the day my bike was built.
  5. scfrank

    scfrank Old farts riding club. Supporter

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    Yes. The drive shaft was painted. I had much more surface rust. I cleaned it, applied moly grease, new boot with lithium grease on it. I think I’m ok. I’ve been through some heavy rain and water crossings. I think part of the issue is water not having an easy way out. Next time mine gets wet I’ll take it down to make sure it’s dry. Its not that hard. I also lube now when I do final drive fluid at 6K miles. I’m at 40K miles.

    [​IMG]
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  6. Hammerdown77

    Hammerdown77 Long timer

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    Having now had a chance to really get into things and seeing all of the "new" low mileage bikes with pretty significant corrosion issues on this thread, it's pretty apparent that the rubber boot is not really going to keep water out. And it's really not going to let it back out if it does get in there, at least not quickly. This observation has been stated before in the thread.

    You wonder what the thinking was here on BMW's part. If they intended that rubber boot to provide a water tight seal, well, they failed. I don't think that was the intention, personally. I think it's like fork gaiters, keeps most stuff out, mainly dirt and debris, but not really water tight. If they thought that putting the paint on the steel would help things, well, sure, it's better than no coating, but if that thing's sitting in a bath of water, or worse, a bath of road salt from people who ride in places where they spray that stuff on the roads, well good luck with that.

    Honestly, I'm wondering how things would fare if you just left that boot off. Yeah, you'd get some grit in there, and maybe that would become the killer at that point, but I bet you wouldn't have the amount of corrosion that we're seeing in some of these pics. At least not if the unit was painted and the splines lubed. Dunno.

    What about a drain hole? Not sure where the best spot to put that would be, though. Maybe just leave the bottom of the rubber gaiter open?
  7. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    As with all issues, it is fairly limited to just a few bikes, by percentage. Also, keep in mind that BMW has revised the boot, so it seems better.
  8. Frank smith

    Frank smith R1200GSA, R80RT, 350 EXC-F Supporter

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    I was thinking the same thing today, when I finally got around to lubing my splines. The bike has 16.5K miles. Light powdery rust on the splines. Took care of that with the lube and and an acid brush to apply it. I could tell that moisture has been trapped inside the FD from the boot letting just enough moisture in but inadequate ventilation to allow it to escape. I’ve seen this issue on aircraft. That’s why there were light areas of corrosion on the driveshaft. I ride in the rain a lot. No water crossings but plenty of wet riding. Thanks to Jim for showing us how to lower the FD and lube the splines.
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  9. Faukx

    Faukx Adventurer

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    Another Data Point:

    2017.0 GSA - 30,000 miles - I just bought it so I'm not sure of its history.

    It wasn't bad in there at all and it seemed like there was some kind of (nearly dried-up) silvery-grey grease on it. It didn't seem like anyone had ever been in there before as the white grease on the boot was very dry and made the boot hard to remove.

    That said, I will be making this a regular part of my final drive maintenance routine.

    IMPORTANT NOTE FOR THOSE WHO MAY BE ATTEMPTING THIS:
    Make sure you have the supplies to change the final drive oil even if you intend to plug the ABS sensor hole and save it. There is a good chance you'll knock out your makeshift plug while you wrestle with the thing and make a mess on your garage floor. :baldy

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  10. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    It looks like you were beginning to get some spline wear from the dry splines. Front edge of the female spline and 75% again towards the back.
  11. striker3636

    striker3636 Been here awhile

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    Watched a master tech do a final drive oil change last night and he had a neat tip... when he's ready to put the new gear oil back in, he first puts a small flat screw driver in the fill hole and rotates the rear wheel until the screw driver will slide in, which means the hole lines up with the space between two gear teeth. He showed us with a flashlight, the gear tooth mostly blocks the fill hole if you don't do it. Says lets the gear oil flow in much better and quicker, without coming back out the hole. Made sense to me, and seemed like a good tip.
  12. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    I tend to rotate the rotor (which rotates the gears) when filling. It expedites the fill process.
  13. Faukx

    Faukx Adventurer

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    Oh yeah. I see what you mean. I guess it's not just rust that's a problem.

    I'll definitely be in there again before the warranty expires just to make sure everything looks ok.

    Thanks for the input!
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  14. Hammerdown77

    Hammerdown77 Long timer

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    Yeah, when I first attempted to put the oil in, it just flowed back out the hole and down the outside of the drive into the catch pan. Probably lost about 10 mL. I realized what was happening and rotated the FD a bit, then the oil went in no problem.

    So I have less than 180 mL in my FD, and I stressed about it for a while, whether or not to squirt some more in there, but I figured it's probably worse to have too much oil in the thing so I've just left it alone. (that is unless one of you guys says that my FD is going to burn up without that 10-15 mL of oil, in which case I'll add a little more...)
  15. Dogslobber

    Dogslobber Been here awhile Supporter

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    Well.....I attempted to get this done this weekend, and the driveshaft is solidly stuck to the FD. Due to time and space constraints I had to lube the front and re-assemble for the time being. Hoping I find some solutions to try in this thread.

    Stats- plenty of wet nasty dirty riding, TT extended FD breather, 15,551 miles.
    The driveshaft is mostly rust free, except for right at the FD.
  16. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Saturate the shaft at the splines with something like PB Blaster, ride for a while and do it again. Then use a wedge shaped 3/4 " wide chisel and tap it firmly between the U-joint and the end of the FD input shaft. I have had to do this twice. Once it came out pretty easily, once I had to hit it firmly many times.
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  17. Dogslobber

    Dogslobber Been here awhile Supporter

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    Thanks Jim. I can't ride right now due to winter, however I will disassemble and get after it again. I did spray it down with LPS before putting it back together. I'll continue with spray, lightly hammer until it breaks free.
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  18. Cataract2

    Cataract2 Where to?

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    Kroil might help.
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  19. AdamChandler

    AdamChandler Ascending n00b Supporter

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    2018 R1200GS Adventure. No water crossings yet, 1400 miles on the Odometer. Dropped the FD and unlike my 2017 GSA, my splines and shaft were very generously lubed. color me impressed!

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  20. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Either BMW finally learned, or you got a Tuesday bike!