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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.
Second time I have dropped and greased the splines in 46k miles on my 2016 GSA. Looks good.
Had an unexpected finding tonight when lubricating the final drive splines on my 2015 1200 GSW. I bought the bike used with just under 6,000 miles last summer. ( out of warranty by a couple of months ). When I dropped the final drive, I noticed the corrugated rubber boot had a inward dimpled middle corrugation. When I got it off, the splines were dry, but not rusted. However, the rubber boot was filled with rubber particles. Turns out, the dimpled boot was being rubbed by the U-joint and had completely worn a hole through it the size of my finger. I couldn't see the hole on the bike because it was dimpled inward. I'll post a picture if anyone is interested. A new rubber boot is $ 62.50 before our club discount. Ouch! I'm certain the final drive has never been serviced, so this must have been installed wrong at the factory. Still, it's out of warranty.
Not a common problem, but not an unheard of one either. You're lucky. Usually when you find a hole that's been rubbed through the boot, you find a great deal of rust as well. The new one you're about to buy will come with a metal wire insert BMW looks to have added to the boot with the specific intent that it will prevent that kind of "collapse" from happening again.
Ounce of prevention and all that...
That is good news and I'm glad you told me. I would have wondered about the difference in the two boots.
This is a know potential issue. BMW redesigned the boot in around early 2016. Compare them and you will see that they added a metal stiffener in the new boot.
Well, I finally had to separate the FD from the bike. I had to have it on the bench in order to chisel it apart. I had to use various instruments to hammer it to the ends of the splines.
I didn’t have quite enough time last night to finish up, but will this evening. Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread, and JVB for his experience.
The good news, in addition to the fact that you got everything apart, is the splines don't look any worse for the wear and tear. What did you use to clean up all that rust and how well did it come out?
It came out a lot cleaner than I thought it would. I think it was frozen on so tight early in it's life there was no wear because there was no movement. I used WD-40, various wire brushes, scotch-brite pads and elbow grease. I used the LocTite brand Moly Paste to lube everything when re-assembled. I also used plenty of white lithium grease on all mating surfaces of the rubber boots.
How many miles are on that bike?
Are you the original owner?
You run a lot of water crossings
We are talking about a 16 GSA from your sig line right?
I assume no salt or calcium chloride on your roads?
You have any thoughts or ideas on environmental or other reasons for this to happen to your bike? I do not think there is anything we can attribute it to other then no lube on assembly.
I know Jim has had the experience of knocking a few drive shafts out of final drives but there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to why some get so crusty.
I am very happy I did mine, but at 18K I will do the top of the shaft and redo the bottom.
I am very glad you got it sorted out.
I think people should start taking a spline lube as a serious maintenance item not to be put off.
Thank you for the reply.
For my upcoming 6k service, I plan to change the rear oil. Is it worthwhile to drop the rear and lube the splines even at 6k. The bike is only used on the street with occasional dirt roads.
This will be my first time doing anything more than an engine oil change and have minimal confidence in my mechanic skills. So nervous about removing the rear wheel and dropping the rear.
Yes, definitely worth doing. It really isn't that hard.
It is way easier than you think. This thread is a big help. As I found out it appears that NO lube was put on my splines during assembly, regardless of weather you ride street, dirt, or a combination of both, the splines need lubrication to function properly.
Needless to say I was very chuffed to see how good it all looked on the inside - no rust! I've done quite a bit of riding in wet conditions, mud and puddles, very pleased to see how good it all looks. There was a lot of gunk in the drain plug though... But the splines don't look worn to me but would love to hear your take on it JimVonBaden.
Huge shout out to you, Jim, for taking the time to post up this pictorial. Greatly appreciated! And now on to the rest of the 12K maintenance.
That is beautiful!
I have to wonder out loud a bit though.
Seems general consensus is the white grease around the boot helps form the seal and helps keep the boot sealed and everything nice. However looking at yours it does not appear to be all slobbered up as a lot of pictures that are posted. It looks like a very nice bead was laid down on that boot but again not all slobbered up as mine was.
Nice to see another positive outcome and proof that at least a portion of these bikes are put together very nicely.
Yea, it was neatly done. I'm going to do my best to keep it that way too. Never laid down a lithium bead before but I plan on being tidy with it. I was pleasantly surprised, especially after seeing some of the previous posts. The pics on this thread make the splines and shaft look much bigger than they actually are...So I was a little surprised at how small the drive shaft looked for such a a big girl...Iv'e heard the camera adds ten pounds... Glad I did the spline check, peace of mind, so grateful for JVB.
Thinking about doing this but not sure the best method of getting the bike up on the center stand while up on my HF lift. Is there some easy way to do that? Tough enough on flat ground let alone on a lift not wide enough for me and the bike. I think there is something obvious that I am obviously missing.
Two ways, a buddy and both lift with the front wheel tied in, or use a scissor jack just in front of the centerstand.
I was thinking about a scissors jack toward the front. Will go with that. Thank, mister!