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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.
Looks like it came out really well. Just make sure to use a liberal amount of white lithium grease to seal the boot against the swing arm and final drive and you should be good to go!
Note the total absence of Molybdenum in this grease per MSDS
" 3. Composition/information on ingredients Mixtures Chemical name Common name and synonyms CAS number % Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated 64742-52-5 heavy naphthenic 60 - 70 Residual oils (petroleum), 64742-01-4 solvent-refined 20 - 30 Lithium hydroxide solution 1310-66-3 1 - 10 Zinc alkyldithiophosphate 68649-42-3 1 - 10 Distillates (petroleum), 64741-88-4 solvent-refined heavy paraffinic < 1 Silica, Crystalline - Quartz 14808-60-7 < 1 Specific chemical identity and/or percentage of composition has been withheld as a trade secret. " http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/43330.pdf
Job complete - a little bit of a "Wrastlin' Match" getting the front joint on with the damn boot in the way. The Blue Tape helped some, just plain persistence in the end. Helps to get the "back side" of the rear of the front boot clipped in place after the joint is installed and before you slide the front of the boot over the Transmission housing. Leveling the swing arm was essential to getting the front joint installed. I found it best to not secure either end of the rear boot before sliding the rear joint onto the final drive, needed access with my fingers to get that started. Tying the rear joint up to the Paralever bolt hole above simplified that part of the job. Don't forget to clean the rear brake rotor after having your greasy hands all over it. I'm sure glad I had a lift, would hate to do this laying on the garage floor! It will be interesting to see what this looks like at 24,000 after my trip to D2D and Alaska. I sure don't like the 'cheesy' boot/seal/White Lithium Grease arrangement. I can definitely see how even a little bit of sprayed on water from a garden hose or pressure washer could penetrate through the "seal". JSNS! Thanks to all of you that chimed in to help.
I have been reading all post until page 26. I decided to jump to the end and just ask.
I dropped the FD today in an attempt to live the splines and the DS came off at the top now I still can't separate the shaft from the FD.
Where can I find the instructions to remove the final drive? This way I can remove the shaft from it after setting it on a workbench.
Thanks in advance.
The odd part is that I don't see much rust.
Take a wedge chisel and drive it between the end of the FD input shaft and the driveshaft. Start gently, and progressively harder taps until it comes apart. If there doesn't appear much rust this should easily do it. No need to remove the FD.
I've been trying that and plenty rust penetrate but no luck.
I had to let mine soak for 10 days before it came apart. My buddies bike sat for 1 hr soaking in PB Blaster, but took 3 hrs of hammering to get apart. Patience and perseverance are key here.
Ok. I think I got it loose but the shaft is too far out because it's not on at the top. It won't drop off. Any trick for getting the shaft back on when it when its still connected to the FD?
It took two of us when that happened on mine. one guys has to line up the front while the other fella deals with the FD. It's tricky, like sneaking out of church, but can be done.
Twist and push the shaft towards the trans. That should get it far enough up to drop the FD and pull it out.
Note, you will need to pull the forward part of the trans end boot to get it back together.
I think I just need to drop the FD. It all make total sense as to how it will slide off but it doesn't.
The FD does not look that complicated to remove.
Sorry, I am confused. Yes, you need to drop, not remove, the final drive:
Just a quick hit and run question here. There is no need to drop the final drive oil just to lube the splines, correct? I know it's easy to do at the same time but I just did my final drive and all this palaver makes me want to check my splines.
You do need to drop the FD to lube the splines: http://www.jvbproductions.com/R1200_Wethead_FD.html
Not the oil if you disconnect the speed sensor from up under the side panel. I did mine without dropping the oil.
Thanks JVB for the picture. As soon as I removed the FD it slid off. I tried to put the DS back on but no luck. I decided 5 hrs on a 30 minute job was enough for the night. I will be picking up some painters tape and trying again tomorrow.
I still don't understand why it was stuck on and why the front DS came off so easily. It had very minor rust, nothing that should have made it stick.
I was so ready for this 12k service. I bought the videos from JVB, watched the videos, ordered all supplies from BBY, I even lined up all the tools before starting.
This is the longest service ever.