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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.
Thanks for the follow-up post! Good info.
New guy here.
Did the lube job and took some pictures.
Bike R1200GS LC 2015 with 100.000 km on the clock. (the previous owner did 9 services every 10k) And it appears that the service did a good job.
All splines look good and working great. Two pictures BEFORE and AFTER the cleanup.
From the looks of the shaft , I assume you pulled it to get it that clean. If so any problems getting it out and back in?
splines look great. The housing itself seems to be showing some early corrosion but should be an easy fix.
No did not pull it out. I just elbow it left right up down. Will do it next time. maybe in a week or two.
Have to clean all other things first. Like front breaks :)
Mine 10k kilometres later, now 50182km
Looks the same as before, now nicely lubed and ready for the upcoming trip to the Balkans, Albania maybe
20K on the clock, not sure if the previous owner had ever had it opened. I found little to no rust, oil, or gear oil. Cleaned her up and slapped on some molykote. I dabbed some silicone paste on the boot when I put it back together. I was a bit surprised to see no factory thread locker on the paralink bolt. Thanks for the write up!
My first thought was anti-seize, and you would look like this about now:
no kidding, especially the high temp copper stuff. Gets freakin' EVERYWHERE!!!
That shit will jump across the shop and deposit itself somewhere on me if I'm not careful.
My 16’ has 16k and the yoke won’t come off the spline. It’s not nearly as rusty as the above one. The upper splines look great. I’ve tried everything to remove it. Taking it to work Tuesday to use some toyota persuasion tools.
Been there. A wedge chisel between the U-joint and the end of the FD input shaft got it out.
I took my Spline out the other day and saw the lower part from the cush to the FD is rusty and the rubber has little fractures. My bike is a 17.5 with 15k KMs. Is there anything I can do beside greasing the U-joints to maintain the spline properly? Can I lube the connection as attached picture? this is not mine just for demonstration.
That connection in the circle is the equivalent of a cush drive. No lube. It is vulcanized to the metal on both sides. You should lube the splines, leave the U-joints alone. They are not serviceable.
How do you inspect your spline?
Start at post 1.
I was not able to remove the lower part of the boot (I want to clean it on both sides). The upper boot there is grip on top and lower portion but how to remove the lower part? It's on a 1250 (the same as the 1200LC) but saw some videos they don't remove the lower part, some do so any advices?
I have mine apart right now, (16 GSA). About 25k miles, first time opening it up. I got one of the painted driveshafts.
The lower boot detaches pretty much the same as the top. Be gentle and work it slowly, it doesn't look like the boots are designed to be removed very often as they have one way clips on them which will lose their sharp edge more and more each time they are removed. I got the upper clip on the lower boot loose first then worked on the sides. The lower part of the boot has a circular protrusion which fits into the recess by the final drive input shaft, that's why it's a little harder to get loose.
I may have missed it in an earlier post, but what is the white tacky compound that looks like it was used to seal the mating areas between the boot and the driveshaft housing and final drive housing? It is stickier than lithium grease and it is not set up like silicone sealant would be. You can smear it around with your finger.
This is what BMW uses and calls for for the boot: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6DMTFQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1