R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. Dorian

    Dorian huge carbon footprint

    Joined:
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    Thanks for the follow-up post! Good info.
  2. LPKA

    LPKA LPKA

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2015
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    5
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    Bled, Slovenia
    New guy here.

    Did the lube job and took some pictures.
    Bike R1200GS LC 2015 with 100.000 km on the clock. (the previous owner did 9 services every 10k) And it appears that the service did a good job.

    All splines look good and working great. Two pictures BEFORE and AFTER the cleanup.
    IMG_20190823_103424.jpg IMG_20190823_105824.jpg
  3. dwheil

    dwheil Been here awhile

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    From the looks of the shaft , I assume you pulled it to get it that clean. If so any problems getting it out and back in?
  4. emidyl

    emidyl Been here awhile

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    Oct 15, 2016
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    splines look great. The housing itself seems to be showing some early corrosion but should be an easy fix.
    LPKA and onesaintsfan like this.
  5. LPKA

    LPKA LPKA

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    Jun 18, 2015
    Oddometer:
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    No did not pull it out. I just elbow it left right up down. Will do it next time. maybe in a week or two.
    Have to clean all other things first. Like front breaks :)
    dwheil likes this.
  6. marcmarc

    marcmarc Adventurer

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    Nov 12, 2017
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    Poland
    Mine 10k kilometres later, now 50182km :-)

    upload_2019-8-27_21-40-11.png

    Looks the same as before, now nicely lubed and ready for the upcoming trip to the Balkans, Albania maybe :-)

    upload_2019-8-27_21-42-12.png
    JimVonBaden likes this.
  7. Chris183

    Chris183 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2018
    Oddometer:
    33
    Location:
    On the road
    splines.jpeg

    20K on the clock, not sure if the previous owner had ever had it opened. I found little to no rust, oil, or gear oil. Cleaned her up and slapped on some molykote. I dabbed some silicone paste on the boot when I put it back together. I was a bit surprised to see no factory thread locker on the paralink bolt. Thanks for the write up!
  8. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Feb 11, 2005
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    85,480
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    Alexandria, VA
    My first thought was anti-seize, and you would look like this about now:
    [​IMG]
  9. Chris183

    Chris183 Adventurer

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    Aug 18, 2018
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    33
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    On the road

    no kidding, especially the high temp copper stuff. Gets freakin' EVERYWHERE!!!
    JimVonBaden likes this.
  10. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

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    Sep 24, 2006
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    Sunshine Coast B.C.
    That shit will jump across the shop and deposit itself somewhere on me if I'm not careful. :deal
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  11. Bull548

    Bull548 n00b

    Joined:
    May 25, 2016
    Oddometer:
    4
    Location:
    Hilliard, Ohio
    My 16’ has 16k and the yoke won’t come off the spline. It’s not nearly as rusty as the above one. The upper splines look great. I’ve tried everything to remove it. Taking it to work Tuesday to use some toyota persuasion tools.

    Attached Files:

  12. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Been there. A wedge chisel between the U-joint and the end of the FD input shaft got it out.
  13. Vnuh

    Vnuh Adventurer

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    Sep 4, 2015
    Oddometer:
    24
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    Thailand
    I took my Spline out the other day and saw the lower part from the cush to the FD is rusty and the rubber has little fractures. My bike is a 17.5 with 15k KMs. Is there anything I can do beside greasing the U-joints to maintain the spline properly? Can I lube the connection as attached picture? this is not mine just for demonstration.
    1374925965.png
  14. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    That connection in the circle is the equivalent of a cush drive. No lube. It is vulcanized to the metal on both sides. You should lube the splines, leave the U-joints alone. They are not serviceable.
    Chris183 and Vnuh like this.
  15. Vnuh

    Vnuh Adventurer

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    Sep 4, 2015
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    How do you inspect your spline?
  16. ckindt

    ckindt Been here awhile Super Supporter

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    Start at post 1.
  17. ghostryder

    ghostryder Long timer Supporter

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    :lol3
  18. CoOlSlY

    CoOlSlY Been here awhile

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    Jul 5, 2017
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    177
    I was not able to remove the lower part of the boot (I want to clean it on both sides). The upper boot there is grip on top and lower portion but how to remove the lower part? It's on a 1250 (the same as the 1200LC) but saw some videos they don't remove the lower part, some do so any advices?
  19. G-RDR

    G-RDR gedubya

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    112
    Location:
    San Angelo, Texas
    I have mine apart right now, (16 GSA). About 25k miles, first time opening it up. I got one of the painted driveshafts.

    The lower boot detaches pretty much the same as the top. Be gentle and work it slowly, it doesn't look like the boots are designed to be removed very often as they have one way clips on them which will lose their sharp edge more and more each time they are removed. I got the upper clip on the lower boot loose first then worked on the sides. The lower part of the boot has a circular protrusion which fits into the recess by the final drive input shaft, that's why it's a little harder to get loose.

    I may have missed it in an earlier post, but what is the white tacky compound that looks like it was used to seal the mating areas between the boot and the driveshaft housing and final drive housing? It is stickier than lithium grease and it is not set up like silicone sealant would be. You can smear it around with your finger.

    Boot.jpg Shaft Housing.jpg Shaft.jpg Spline.jpg
  20. b_rubenstein

    b_rubenstein Been here awhile

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