R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. Chugiak

    Chugiak Lechien

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    Did mine today on a 2017 GSA, and it took me six-hours, as the shaft came out and I had to drop the rear drive unit to pull the shaft and the unit to get it apart to get to the splines then had to put it together. But, I did get to lube up the upper spline. I did not have much rust and did a bit of wet riding this past year (off-road). Once again, thank you Jim V. for putting this together.
  2. GrumpyOne

    GrumpyOne Been here awhile Supporter

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    Pulled my 2017 GSA apart for the 1st drive service and it was well lubed with no sign of water or rust. But the final drive oil was a bit sparkly. Used a long thin screwdriver to support the shaft/u-joint (and an extra set of hands) to put back together.

    -jw

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  3. Chugiak

    Chugiak Lechien

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    How many miles, just did mine with just under 36K and it had a little rust, not as nice as yours, nice work
  4. filterwrench

    filterwrench Been here awhile

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    2nd driveshaft at 30,000 km 1st one made around 45,000 km before being replaced on warrenty. Grease is all dried up so could of used a lube job sooner than this. 20191122_142329.jpg
  5. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    By the look of it your boot is not doing its job!
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  6. filterwrench

    filterwrench Been here awhile

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    boot is installed properly it looks to not be waterproof from its design. Bmw installed it last time during drive shaft warranty job. This time I greased all the contact points but you can tell it will still let water in. The plastic snap type ring has lost its ability to seal the rubber boot. Its a poor design that will require a yearly clean and lube. IMHO
  7. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Yeah, it should seal near 100%. It is not a perfect design, but most seal just fine. Yours may need to be replaced.

    For the dozens that I have seen, only a few did not seal right. Some based on improper install, some there is no explanation (defective).
  8. filterwrench

    filterwrench Been here awhile

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    Second one already on this bike. First one was replaced after first month of use due to a wear hole. Now this one seems to be getting soft. Will have a new one on hand for next time I drop the final drive.
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  9. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Was your replacement the one with the wire insert? Those are supposed to be the best ones.
  10. filterwrench

    filterwrench Been here awhile

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    Nope it has a plastic insert that looks to have lost its shape. I will make sure to get the wire one. Thanks!
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  11. homofaber

    homofaber Adventurer

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    I have just read this thread from beginning to end and I want to thank you all for the wealth of information you have documented here. Special thanks to J.v.B for taking the time to share his vast knowledge and experience (and patiently answering some of the same questions again and again). And then apologies for 'hijacking' this LC thread with a camhead question, but this is simply the single most comprehensive discussion of this topic I have found and I think my question would apply to the LC equally.

    I am about to replace both rubber boots on the swing arm of my 2010 R12GS because they have started to show cracks. From this thread and other related ones I am confident I know what to do and how to go about it. I understand that with some fiddling and twiddling it is possible to replace the upper (transmission-side) boot without removing the swing arm (with the FD dropped). Several people in this thread alone have shown that.

    Now I am thinking, could I make things a little easier for myself if I just unbolt the shock/spring assembly from the swing arm? This should allow me:

    a) to lower the swing arm a little more, which would open the joint at the transmission output shaft a bit, making it easier to align and mate the drive shaft u-joint to the transmission shaft, and then
    b) to line up the swing arm and drive shaft very straight with the transmission output shaft for that final (gentle) whack with a mallet for seating the internal circlip.

    I hope it makes sense what I am trying to explain. Has anyone done that?
  12. eri

    eri Long timer

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    yes, removing the rear shock does help with access

    at least it did when i changed the perished front boot on my 2009 two years ago, greased both splines well with moly when putting back together

    i thought i was good for another 5? years but a few months ago when i swapped out the rear showa for a oem WP shock was unhappy to see the the front boot wasn't sealing correctly right where it was blocked from view by the shoock

    so then had to drop the final drive and remove the driveshaft, revealing a dry set of splines, just as in the photo above

    like Jim says without a fully seated boot, water gets in and washes off the grease

    with the driveshaft out , the front boot could be pulled out and the sealing problem traced to a mangled + stretched plastic sealing shell. seems in my struggle to get the new boot seated 2 years earlier i had damaged the shell...

    fortunately, i still had the undamaged plastic shell from the perished boot that had been removed earlier, so was able to (this time more carefully) get the 2 year old boot back in with the 10 year old shell....then grease the dry splines again, make a new wire hook to keep the boot top open for eye-balling, and get the driveshaft back in etc
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  13. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud Supporter

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    I've found that it was actually easier to align the front of the driveshaft with the gearbox output splines without the driveshaft housing at such an extreme angle. Although having the housing higher once the rear shock is disconnected makes pushing the boot open to see inside a bit tougher, the male and female splines align easier when straighter.
  14. homofaber

    homofaber Adventurer

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    That's a good point. I can see that the free u-joint end at the gearbox spline might be easier to control that way from the FD end of the drive shaft. I will try that, too. Thanks for the suggestion.
  15. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud Supporter

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    Due to that narrow opening at the front, when I recently had my '14 GS's driveshaft out I tied a piece of string around the front female spline yoke and fished the end of the string up the driveshaft housing and out through the opening. After I guided the driveshaft forward through the housing, pulling on the string helped to guide the yoke back onto the gearbox splines.
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  16. g_e_young

    g_e_young Born to ride

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    I finally found the time to do this rather enjoyable service! Thanks for all the great pictorials; it was much easier and quicker than I expected. My bike is a '14 with 50k miles on it, with some off road and plenty of rain. I was expecting the worst, but was pleasantly surprised! I did not remove the shaft from transmission, but maybe next time.

    There WAS about a 1/4 teaspoon of motor oil pooled at the bottom of the swing arm. Enough to worry about???

    First two pics before lube, last pic after (but before cleaning boot). Final pic is my helper relaxing after a job well done.

    Thanks All, g-

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  17. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    That amount of oil is basically insignificant. Nice looking dog!
  18. g_e_young

    g_e_young Born to ride

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    Thx Jim. You are the man. Going to do my '11 RT next. Exactly the same process, right? Thx, g-
  19. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Yes, same process. :-)
  20. Bikerboy108

    Bikerboy108 Pat from Jersey

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    OK just read this page...from post 227 on.. 15,000 on my 18 gsa ..decided to do the rear lube, although I did't think i needed it.Had done it on my 15 GSA LC and had no issues....So No water crossings, a few 5-10% off rroad rides some puddles, rain etc..garage kept and well maintained...
    SO of course the back stays on and the front comes off #*^@ ... Before I pull the rear off want to see if I can get the back splines apart. Cant see anything cRubber boot in the way ...WHATS THE TRICK to getting it off the back part by the final drive?? Anyone
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    boot won’t slip over top of universal and rear doesn’t drop any further down then picture below solutions are ? Cut off boot and see if I can seperate rear splines ?
    And if I take off final drive I have to do that anyway I guess ..

    Thought the universal would allow the rear to drop lower but I guess swing arm too narrow?
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