R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. ErikMotoMan

    ErikMotoMan Airbag crash survivor!

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    Thanks, Jim, as always, great job. I need to order some of your stuff. Servicing the ABS and replacing brake lines on a 2003 K 1200 GT. What do I need?
    JimVonBaden likes this.
  2. tentative_rider

    tentative_rider Wanna Be On Gravel

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    Thanks JVB!
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  3. Pickup man

    Pickup man Been here awhile

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    In the process of lubing my splines and was gonna take the FD filler plug out but, my 2014 GSA filler plug is clearly not 8mm Allen.

    I put in a 6 mm Allen and it seems to fit but, a 40 Torx seems to fit too. Its hard to tell which one is the right size.
    Can someone please tell me which one it is. I really don't want to start wrenching on it and start ruining the damn bolt.
  4. taz_va

    taz_va Long timer

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    A torx will almost always fit an allen bolt. It is most likely an allen bolt. Make sure there's no debris/dirt in the socket. Maybe someone changed the bolt along the way. You can't mistake a torx for an allen when you can see it anyhow. They're very distinctive.

    Torx-hex-contact-angles-forces.jpg
  5. Pickup man

    Pickup man Been here awhile

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    Thanks taz va its confirmed. I have a 6 mm Allen for my FD filler plug. I wonder if that is the plug BMW used for early production GSA Waterboxers.
    I do remember my 2010 GSA had the 8 mm.
  6. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Could very well be. I did the Wethead DVD on the 2013 and the tutorial here on a 2015.

    This is from the DVD:
    Final Drive:

    • 6mm Allen
    • T-45-Torx
    • T-30-Torx
    • Ratchet
    • Graduated Squeeze Bottle
    • Drip Pan
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  7. Crazy Legs

    Crazy Legs Let's Ride!

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    You make it look so easy Jim, that I think even I could do it!
    Great work. Thanks for your help.
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  8. 65SlashTwo

    65SlashTwo Da Pigu Supporter

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    From Castrol site:
    Syntrax Long Life 75W-90 (Replaces SAF-XO)
    Full synthetic multigrade final drive lubricant. It is Castrol’s prime recommendation for final drives in heavy commercial vehicles,
    and is approved by MAN, Scania and ZF. Specially designed and approved by BMW for use in all BMW final drives fitted with
    conventional (non limited slip) differentials. It is designed to provide superior protection at both high and low operating
    temperatures where conventional mineral oils prove unsatisfactory.
  9. Crazy Legs

    Crazy Legs Let's Ride!

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    Hey Jim...I did do it!
    I have to admit that I DID add a little more grease than you showed in your pics. I just wanted to be sure. You were also correct on saying it might take a few tries to get the splines and the u-joint(?) to line back up, but once it was in place, and applying a little pressure, it just fit. :clap
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  10. FlyingFinn

    FlyingFinn Long timer

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    Thought I'd add couple pictures from my spline lube job.

    Since I had some time to kill this morning, I decided to pull the drive shaft from my 2014 GSA.
    I wanted to check the condition of the shaft and the splines, and then do some preventive lubrication.

    [​IMG]

    I cleaned the splines, and then applied a coat of Honda Moly 60 Paste.

    [​IMG]

    Also, while I had the drive shaft out, I sprayed it liberally with CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor to prevent (or slow down) rusting if water ever makes its way into the swingarm and I don't notice to take care of it.

    [​IMG]

    Mikko
  11. Pickup man

    Pickup man Been here awhile

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    I did the exact same thing you did. Sprayed the driveshaft liberally with Krown rust inhibitor before putting everything back together.
  12. xzatx

    xzatx Been here awhile

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    I'm not sure i saw this here, but can we use 75W90 GL5 GEAR OIL?
    https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-104361...TF8&qid=1488903140&sr=8-1&keywords=75w-90+GL5

    I have a big 12k service coming up,
    OIL CHANGE,
    AIR FILTER
    FD OIL CHANGE
    FD RE-GREASE
    VALVE CHECK
    TAKE OFF AL GUARDS AND REINSTALL (to access everything!)
    I'm also thinking to flush the coolant. MIGHT AS WELL.

    it's gona be like a honeymoon between me and my babyG. hehe...
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  13. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    75W90 is fine, in full synthetic.

    Coolant is usually good for at least 5 years.
  14. xzatx

    xzatx Been here awhile

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    GL5 or GL4?
  15. PJRider

    PJRider Adventurer

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    Thanks for posting. I've been a bit paranoid about my splines condition since I have done some pretty good water crossings in the past year. Never a pressure wash, maybe a garden hose from time to time.

    I'm stuck at the moment. I can't get the drive to drop. It's about halfway and won't come down any further. When I removed that final bolt I had had to push the drive down but it only got halfway. When I gently try to push/rock it down a bit, the drive shaft into the swing arm is moving and I can hear it banging around a bit towards the front. Any suggestions on how to get this moved down? Doesn't want to seem to want to go back up either.

    Secondly, just from the bit I can see, there's a a lot of rust. Does not look like what I"m seeing in the pictorial. Here's some snapshots of the bit I can see:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    https://goo.gl/photos/DUChBukq9F8nqYar8
    https://goo.gl/photos/hfAThQghusQW1ghQ6

    I'm concerned by this rust. Should I be? :-\

    Right now I want to verify the condition of the splines and get it back together because this issue may be beyond my capabilities.

    Thanks.


    Attached Files:

  16. PJRider

    PJRider Adventurer

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    So working on it some more but no luck. There's quite a bit of play/movement in the drive shaft and when I move the halfway dropped final drive unit the shaft is clanging around in the front.

    How much force can I put on the final drive to get it all the way down without damaging something up front?

    It was all going so well up until this point . . . :-)

  17. PJRider

    PJRider Adventurer

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    . . . and I got it figured out (for now) thanks to some help from GS Giants members on FB.

    Turns out I had somehow pulled the driveshaft out at the transmission side. Had to remove the entire FD to get it out. And, FD side of the drive shaft is covered in some deep rust as our the splines. Not sure of next step . . . traveling for the next week so the GS is in parts all over the garage.
    JimVonBaden likes this.
  18. boxerbeat

    boxerbeat Adventurer

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    Great ADVice JVB! Thank you for putting this document together so that people like myself can carry out this operation with relative confidence.
    Unfortunately I didn't get to know about this sooner as I am now 24K down the line on my '14 GSA and there was some surface rust developing on the UJ and the swing arm/gaiter mating faces. The UJ joints felt smooth. So I just cleaned her up, coated the UJ in a light ACf50 grease, sprayed a mist of ACF50 up the swing arm, lubed the splines, reassembled and added some new gear oil. :clap

    Strangely I did find some evidence of wear on the internal section of the gaiter which I must keep an eye out for!

    Here are some images:



    uj2.JPG

    uj3.JPG

    boot wear int1.JPG

    swing arm corrosion2.JPG

    I'm more dis-appointed about the swing arm than the UJ. The sealing will be even worse now, and I wonder if it had anything to do with the internal wear in the gaiter? This is my second final drive as the first one was damaged upon delivery of the bike. Purely cosmetic for the first FD.
  19. taz_va

    taz_va Long timer

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    Is that paint peeling up? That sucks.
  20. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Looks like your splines were dry and beginning to rust. Good thing you caught it.

    As for the swingarm paint, assuming you are out of warranty, it looks like you need to strip and repaint that flat sealing surface before the corrosion spreads to the outside of the swingarm.