R1200GSw LC Wethead Final Drive change and Spline Lube Pictorial!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.

  1. miker325

    miker325 Long timer

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    You can spray WD40 on the shaft to help inhibit any further rust issues, although there are, in my opinion, better products on the market that are specific to inhibiting rust. The boot will fully detach from the final drive unit to facilitate cleaning and re-greasing. Without a photo, I'm not sure what "gunk on the bottom of the drain plug" means, but if you're referring to the fuzz normally found on the final drive drain plug, yes, just wipe that away. If it's smooth in consistency, it's normal. If there is any grittiness to it, that is not normal and further inspection of the final drive would be in order. That is very rare though.

    Good catch. Now clean up the little rust that is there, apply some moly grease to the splines and some lithium grease to the both ends of the gator and put it all back together for an enjoyable season of riding!
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  2. collin228

    collin228 Been here awhile

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    Exactly what I needed. How does the gator come all the way out? Does it have tabs like the top part?
  3. miker325

    miker325 Long timer

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    Yes, should just "pop" out. Pull gently so you don't inadvertently tear anything. If it doesn't want to let loose fairly easily, rotate your thumb and forefinger to a different area on the boot and gently pull again.
  4. Lead Wrist

    Lead Wrist Mehr Gelände Weniger Straße

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    Eeewww, eewww, eewww... :D

    Instead of WD40, you could use quite few of available rust neutralizer/reformers/etc products which are applied to rusted area to stop what has started and prevent further rust development. Amazon has them in various packages/prices from mild to wild (wild being POR-15 used for fuel tanks etc) so pick your poison and run with it.

    You've got other items to complete the operation so hopefully this is all there'll be on the topic of rusted splines... :thumb
  5. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Well sealed, lack of lube. No, WD 40 is not a rust inhibitor, use a dedicated product, and make sure you reseal the gator, and lube the splines properly.
  6. Cataract2

    Cataract2 Where to?

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    Well, figured I would just show my 2015 R1200GS final drive at 37,000 miles. I drop it at every oil change and reapply the moly and check the driveshaft for looseness. I also spray the driveshaft with Fluid Film as well. Thing looks like it came from the factory overall and the ujoints are still nice and tight with no free play.
    IMG_20200518_140514.jpg IMG_20200518_140451.jpg IMG_20200518_140501.jpg IMG_20200518_140435.jpg
  7. collin228

    collin228 Been here awhile

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    Gator came out, hardest part of this project so far. Ok last question. What should I use to clean the rust? A brush? Also what’s the go to rust inhibitor I should get?
    Thank you all again for your help

    Attached Files:

  8. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    I use a brass or stainless steel brush to get off as much as possible. The lube will inhibit any additional rust.
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  9. jdub

    jdub Dawg bytes reel gud Supporter

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    As Cataract2 mentioned above in his post, Fluid Film is a great rust inhibitor product. Just spray it on and let it go to work.
  10. collin228

    collin228 Been here awhile

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    This morning I mated the FD to the driveshaft. JVB your trick with holding the drive shaft with wire worked well. For some reason I couldn't get the bike in first so it made it harder. Question before I close everything up. If the drive mated and spins when turning the FD with the opening is there a way its not mated correctly? Is there a test or the fact its connected and spinning mean I am OK? Sometimes I sort of barrel ahead sometimes and I am trying to not make any errors.

    Thanks.
  11. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    If you somehow missed mating the splines, but got the FD to tilt into position, it would make a racket as the splines banged around. Test though, rock the FD brake rotor back and forth an put it in gear. It should stop the rotation.

    It sounds like you are good though.
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  12. collin228

    collin228 Been here awhile

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    I think its mated. I spin it and put it in gear and it stops. Sounds smooth. Thank you all. Not sure what I would do without this forum and JVB your "DVD" i downloaded helped.
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  13. turnerm

    turnerm Long timer

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    I have used rust inhibitors like AFC-50, S100 Corrosion Protection, CorrosionX and Boeshield T-9. Also a few others I cant remember. I originally bought them because my spokes started showing signs of corrosion.
    AFC-50 is pretty good. It forms a waxy grease like residue which would protect it. It attracts dirt, but that's better than rust.
    But every time I take the drive apart, I spray the shaft and u-joint with this stuff. I do it after connecting the driveshaft to the rear drive, and before fastening the boot.
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  14. marc11

    marc11 Been here awhile

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    Products like WoolWax, Fluid Film and ACF50 are great for preventing rust, I've been using Fluid Film each year on the underbody and various body seams of my truck as well as on lawn and snow equipment and it does great, zero rust, which for where I live is impressive.

    However I'm not sure what the value of using it on the driveshaft would be.

    I'd think the rotation of the shaft would sling all of it off and also, rust on the shaft or joint really isn't a major issue, is it?

    Isn't the main issue rust on the splines, which is addressed by the moly paste lube?

    Of course, spraying the joints and shaft won't hurt, just wondering if I'm missing something in doing so.
  15. turnerm

    turnerm Long timer

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    That would make sense but I’ve seen some horrible pictures of all of the parts rusted. I had surface rust on the shaft and u joint
  16. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    Rust on the exterior isn't a big issue, but rust tends to spread, and go right under the rubber dust caps of the U-joints. Best to not let it get that far. Centrifugal force doesn't sling light weight films in an enclosed area, so really not an issue to use it.
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  17. Cataract2

    Cataract2 Where to?

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    After 6000 miles (between each drive drop) I can assure you the inhibitor film is still on the shaft doing it's job.
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  18. marc11

    marc11 Been here awhile

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    Thanks for assuring me.
  19. collin228

    collin228 Been here awhile

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    JVB didn’t list the torque value for the Fill Plug for the final drive fluid. Is it 20nm? The drain is and in his torque values is see 20nm.
  20. Lead Wrist

    Lead Wrist Mehr Gelände Weniger Straße

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    It is 20Nm for both.
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