Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Mar 11, 2016.
Looks pretty good. Definitely due though.
Quick update as I've just done mine on a recently purchased 2016 1200GS LC (14,000km on the clock)
I ran into the same issue as many others in that I was unable to drop the final drive off the spline once everything had been disconnected.
Tried jumping on it a bit with no luck. Pulled the rubber gaiter back and sprayed a bunch of WD40 in. Still no good.
Eventually decided to put the rear wheel back on and drop the bike off the centre stand a few times to try to dislodge it.
After about the third try, the spline loosened up and I was able to remove the rear wheel and pull the rear drive down with enough force to get it to drop all the way.
All cleaned up now and new grease installed.
Hope this helps anyone else struggling to get things loosened up.
2020 GSA just had the dealer open it up at the 600 mile service to check and relube. Looked good
Mine doesn’t look too bad after 50,000 miles including a trip across the Magruder and a trip to Dead Horse
I'd say it looks great - good on ya for taking the time to check!
Unlike the problem I related a few years ago with my '14 GS (corrosion and u-joint failure), the driveshaft on my current '17 R1200GS looks fine. Just had it apart about two months ago. And that's through innumerable water crossings, 60k miles, over every hill and dale.
I found a pinhole in my gaitor. Repaired it with liquid electrical tape (liquid rubber) and put it back on.
I then ordered a new gaitor ($63) that I will put on when I drop the drive again in 12k
A simple 12K on @Dr Twisty 's bike turned into a little more than simple.
Anyhow, the rest of the 12K went great. Oil and filter, valves all in spec, plugs, air filter and brakes. Went to do the FD, drop it down and lube the splines, and trouble hit!
Rust frozen solid.
Some hammer time, with chisels, and finally broke it loose.
Rust cleaned as well as possible, painted with rust reformer, and ready to reinstall.
Basically it all went back together OK.
The problem was, the rear boot wasn't properly attached, likely from the factory.
nasty! good save, well fitting boots essential on adventure bikes with driveshafts
Inside of my boot looked the same, but didn't seize up like that. It borders rediculous imo. I have told a few they need to check, especially after submersion, and they just shrug. Thinking its all good from factory
Wow! I’m amazed how bad that was. Would never had thought they could get this bad
24K miles, lots of off road.
I'm a late comer int this debate. It sadens me to see all the rusted final drives, and it makes me wonder what took BMW so long to make the drives shaft coated and properly lubricated. On newer bikes the drives are now ok.
I have through the years helped some of my friends with their bikes, and in a couple of cases, I have experienced that lubing splines with black molybden grease is not good. The grease in use contained some graphite, and this graphite stick to the splines as a coating. When there is enough clearence this is probably a good idea, but in case of BMW shaft drives, the tolerance is simply not there, and the result was that the spline axial movement locked up, making it extremely hard to pull the parts apart.
With the prescribed Optimol TA (grey color), no such problem exists. I know the Optimol TA is not a shelf item in most stores, I got mine from this source: https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q=optimol&search=SEARCH
Notice that the product has been renamed...
For the rubber seal, BMW speicfies the Staburag product. I have a 10 gram box, and 10 grams will last you for years.
Here is an offer for both products, and even if in small boxes, they will probably out last several bikes.
I neither use optimol nor starabugs.
The Final Drives are OK, and the shafts are generally OK. But, even painted they rust, and since they put minimal lube, the splines rust if the boot isn't perfectly sealed.
From pictures I've seen several splines with minimum/totaly lacking lubrication, and this is not good enough. However, checking my 1250, the splines where generously lubricated. A shame though that it took BMW so long to realize the obvious.
As for choice of lubrication, I don't for a minute think that the Castrol products are the only ones with the correct specs.
But for me personally, having to get hold of something to get the job done, I find it quite convenient to get the products as specified. This saves me the trouble of checking that my chosen product serves the purpose.
The last 1250 I did was nearly bone dry. It is this inconsistency that is a big part of the problem.
Do you think it’s not on the schedule because BMW says they’re not moving parts that need lube? Isn’t the main purpose corrosion protection and ease of dis/assembly?
New bikes should all come lubed. You would think it would help with assembly.
They are all supposed to be lubed. See below:
That BMW specs no service schedule is a mystery. They also spec no service on the clutch fluid and the radiator fluid.
Its interesting though that of the drive shafts that have broken that ive seen, most have come apart at the gearbox end .At the final drive end mine was ok so lubed and sealed it broke later -about 15k km at 90k km so who knows what is going on .was 2016 gsa
True, most, and there are not many, driveshafts on Wetheads that break are at the trans end, and most of them are GSAs.